Fitted a turbo

[ajge]

Hi
I picked up my Perentie after having a turbo, custom exhaust manifold and new 2 1/2" exhaust fitted yesterday.
Plenty of torque way less gear changes. Makes it even more enjoyable to drive.
While not cheap this mod has transformed the car. :)
Im not sure if the photos attach properly but here goes
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[neophyteguy]

Hey mate, who did the Turbo for you?

Do you have before and after numbers from a dynamometer?

Thanks for letting me know as I'm quite interested in this as you can see from my other thread.....

Cheers,
Neo

[dingsy]

Hey mate, who did the Turbo for you?

Do you have before and after numbers from a dynamometer?

Thanks for letting me know as I'm quite interested in this as you can see from my other thread.....

Cheers,
Neo

Also interested in who did the mod - was this KLR? Thanks for the pics, the more pics of turbo installs I see the more confident I get that I can do the work myself. Cheers

[steveG]

Looks nice...
Have they used the Isuzu factory manifold or a fabricated one?
Do they install boost and EGT gauges as part of the fitment, or just tune it up and let you have at it :twisted:

Steve

[Barefoot Dave]

Nice
An RFSV with show and go!
You are going to have to get some tyres with more on-road grip.

[usi]

Ill bet your loving it now! Any chance of a youtube video of it spooling up on the road?:twisted:

I'm seriously drooling over it now, Mines a few projects down the line but it will get one eventually

[rar110]

The turbo sits a long way back so I'm guessing they have modified a NA manifold. Which is possible with a TIG welder. No sign of the air filter choke indicator or crank case breather being retained. Maybe these are outside the photo. Alternatively maybe the installer is relying on turbo (see 5/16 tube btw turbo and air filter) vacuuming extra breather capacity from the rocker cover. The consequence is this sucks oil soaked air through the turbo and coats the fan. I also noted no water feed to the turbo, which many people say is not needed. More photos needed. Quite a neat job though.

[ajge]

Hey mate, who did the Turbo for you?

Do you have before and after numbers from a dynamometer?

Thanks for letting me know as I'm quite interested in this as you can see from my other thread.....

Cheers,
Neo

Hi
KLR in South Windsor did the turbo.
Its back there today for a final tune on the Dyno - figures to follow.
Regards
Andrew

[ajge]

Looks nice...
Have they used the Isuzu factory manifold or a fabricated one?
Do they install boost and EGT gauges as part of the fitment, or just tune it up and let you have at it :twisted:

Steve

They Tune it on a Dyno with boost EGT and RPM. I asked them not to fit the gauges, but provide a socket for EGT welded to the exhaust. The manifold is a custom.
Regards
Andrew

[ajge]

Nice
An RFSV with show and go!
You are going to have to get some tyres with more on-road grip.

Hi Dave,

Yes more grip definitely. :) In fact I just removed the split rims and Hi-Milers, I fitted 4 new michelin tyres and standard Perentie rims. Borrowed from my two (new to me $609 bid price :) ) No 5's. This reduced the noise in the cab big time.
With the turbo, exhaust and tyres has changed the whole car. Like I said before makes even more enjoyable to drive :D

Regards
Andrew

[ajge]

The turbo sits a long way back so I'm guessing they have modified a NA manifold. Which is possible with a TIG welder. No sign of the air filter choke indicator or crank case breather being retained. Maybe these are outside the photo. Alternatively maybe the installer is relying on turbo (see 5/16 tube btw turbo and air filter) vacuuming extra breather capacity from the rocker cover. The consequence is this sucks oil soaked air through the turbo and coats the fan. I also noted no water feed to the turbo, which many people say is not needed. More photos needed. Quite a neat job though.

Hi,

No water feed - not needed. The crank breather is remounted just outside the photo. The manifold is custom built from scratch. I will attach some more photos on Friday. I'm away for work until then. I will ask about the 5/16 tube.
regards
Andrew

[rar110]

Hi, No water feed - not needed. The crank breather is remounted just outside the photo. The manifold is custom built from scratch. I will attach some more photos on Friday. I'm away for work until then. I will ask about the 5/16 tube. regards Andrew

I should add that connecting the rocker cover breather before the turbo is normal. The oily that passes through the turbo burns up in the motor. It becomes a problem over time if that oil loaded air then passes through an intercooler. Fitting a Provent or periodically washing out an intercooler is a solution. I think it's better to retain the crank case breather. Although I don't think the turbo version has it fitted.

[mattmac]

I'm planning to do the same to my perentie at some stage- what size exhaust system was fitted and where did it exit- some more pics would be great.

[ajge]

Hi
The exhaust is 2 1/2" it is installed in the same location as the original. More pics to follow
Regards
Andrew

[brad000110]

Hi there, this is Brad from KLR Automotive. I do not want to violate any marketing/advertising restrictions, but I did want to clarify some of the questions being asked here.

1. We fabricate our own manifold to suit the Garret small-frame (aka T2) family
2. We retain the original crankcase breather system - it works so we don't change it.
3. The air filter indicator is retained.
4. We have not found intercooling to be necessary (read cost-effective) with this set up. With a bigger turbo/bigger boost an intercooler would give a bigger benefit (but with added cost/work to fit).
5. We can and do tune these on the road, but our preference and recommendation is to dyno tune - it is easier and more accurate for monitoring temps and boost pressure when you can graph them and review.
6. Prices do vary depending on exactly what the client wants, so we can only give a ballpark figure over the phone (variations like the type and size of the exhaust, dyno-tuning, existing accessories or mods all affect the total cost).

Some general points about turbocharging the 4BD1:

1. You can't hurt the 4BD1 by turbo-charging it (within reason)
2. Any turbo is better than no turbo.
3. The factory turbos (Garret and IHI) are generally a poor choice. If you get one for nothing then use it (see above) but if you need to buy one there are far better turbos out there.
4. Avoid "churbos". The money you save won't cover the cost of an engine rebuild should the worst occur. Let someone else be the guinea pig.
5. I think someone else has already said this, but I'll repeat it anyway. Most factory turbos are of the medium-frame (T3) family size. While they will work, the small-frame family gives a far better result for most drivers. Keep in mind the relatively narrow rev range of this engine.
6. There are guys out there running big turbos with massive boost pressures. We do not do this - essentially we can't warrant the installation. Most drivers are after a decent performance gain without sacrificing long term reliability.
7. If you decide to go the DIY route just be aware that bolting a manifold and turbo to the side of the head is the easiest part of the job. It is easy to get an install right, but it is also easy to get it disastrously wrong. Don't rely on the internet; talk to people who have done it and look at their installs.
8. Don't under-estimate the cost of the parts for fitting a turbo - our full kit has almost 100 individual parts.
9. If you do DIY then I still recommend dyno-tuning and fitting an EGT gauge. Everyone, us included, likes to see before and after dyno runs.
10. Please do not think this is the final word on turbo installations; turbos are a bit like tyres and shocks - everyone has a different opinion. I am just explaining what we know to work through experience.

Lastly, don't procrastinate about a turbo. It is the best money you will spend on your 4BD1.

If I have violated any restrictions here then I throw myself on the mercy of the court.

Cheers, Brad

[neophyteguy]

Brad,
Firstly thanks for taking the time to come on the forum and to clear up a few things. I actually started the questioning and am still quite interested in the setup. Very well written, highly informative and without putting the sales hat on!

A couple of other things we would be interested in knowing:

- Do your standard installs require/use EGT/Boost Gauges or are these not required in your set up?

- What are your general expectations for KW/Torque increases after fitting the Turbo system?

Although these questions are specific to your setup, I think we also realise that your experience will help others who are going down the DIY track.

Thank again,
JRW

[neophyteguy]

Another one:

What increase do you typically see if using a larger (3") exhaust?

Cheers!

[brad000110]

Hi there,

Most of these questions are difficult to answer briefly, however to summarise:

1. We do not supply gauges as part of a standard install, but can do them on request (another price variation...). We tune using our own EGT and boost gauges temporarily fitted (for both dyno and road tuning).

2. We do recommend fitting with any turbo upgrade an EGT gauge and a capillary water temp gauge, but these are not strictly necessary. If you want to go down the road of a DIY big turbo with big boost then these gauges would become mandatory.

3. With the Perentie 4BD1 we expect to double the rear wheel HP output. Once we have dyno'd Andrew's I am sure he will be happy to post the results for his.

4. I do not want to ignite a debate over exhaust systems, but we have not found a 3" pipe to offer any real improvement over a 2 1/2" system that we use with our turbo set-up (and I stress our set-up; I can't comment on others), however it can't hurt if you really want to run a 3" system. It comes down to extra $$ and if space allows (clearance behind the LH front wheel is tight, particularly with larger tyres).

That said, a bigger turbo and bigger boost would benefit from a bigger exhaust (but also requires bigger $$).

If you would like to get more specific it might be better if you call me; I don't want this to become a sales pitch.

Regards, Brad

[neophyteguy]

Thanks again Brad! Very informative information again regarding both your system and systems that others will be putting together.


JRW

[Dougal]

There are three stock turbos from the Isuzu 4BD1T/4BD2T and only one of them is worth using.

The IHI RHB6 turbo used from 1985 to 1988 is a good turbo but is a dead end for parts. So don't bother.
The freefloating (not wastegated) garrett used on the 4BD1T from 1988 is intended to run at 3000rpm all day. So don't bother.
The wastegated garrett TB2568 used on some 4BD2T engines is a very good turbo for a mild tune. It is a T25 based turbo but has a T3 flange which bolts straight to the factory turbo manifold (part numbers are all in the Isuzu section).

Personally I run an even smaller turbo on my 4BD1T to get more boost and torque down low. But this doesn't suit everyone and can also take it's toll on your gearbox. I have the tougher Isuzu gearbox.

[ajge]

Hi
I got the details from the Dyno tune on Friday. 42Hp at the back wheels before the turbo was fitted 107Hp after. 600deg EGT and 15psi boost.
Regards
Andrew.

[usi]

Hi
I got the details from the Dyno tune on Friday. 42Hp at the back wheels before the turbo was fitted 107Hp after. 600deg EGT and 15psi boost.
Regards
Andrew.


:o You have to do a video of that thing spooling up now!

[Dougal]

Hi
I got the details from the Dyno tune on Friday. 42Hp at the back wheels before the turbo was fitted 107Hp after. 600deg EGT and 15psi boost.
Regards
Andrew.

Good result. Is egt measured before or after the turbo on your installation?

[ajge]

Good result. Is egt measured before or after the turbo on your installation?


Hi Dougal
The egt is measured just after the turbo.
Regards
Andrew

[Dougal]

Hi Dougal
The egt is measured just after the turbo.
Regards
Andrew

That makes sense. Your pre-turbo measurement will be around 700-720C at 100km/h with that turbo and that boost on that engine.
This is safe, but don't go any higher. You can move the probe to the manifold to know what it's actually doing. But the lack of piston-squirters on the non turbo engines are the main reason to keep it conservative.

You should have around 110kw at the crank.

[ajge]

That makes sense. Your pre-turbo measurement will be around 700-720C at 100km/h with that turbo and that boost on that engine.
This is safe, but don't go any higher. You can move the probe to the manifold to know what it's actually doing. But the lack of piston-squirters on the non turbo engines are the main reason to keep it conservative.

You should have around 110kw at the crank.

Hi Dougal,

110kw at the crank is what the installer suggested. Unfortunately I didn't get a Nm reading the Dyno was configured for Lb not ftlb. The reading was about 800lb.
Brad suggested 600 deg was safe. This is what I was looking for, improved performance without destroying my engine.
Thanks for your input.

Regards
Andrew

[Dougal]

You should have a bit over 400Nm when you first hit 15psi, which should be around 2000rpm.
From there the torque tapers down as rpm increase. 110kw at 3000rpm is about 350Nm.

If you want more, an intercooler is the next step.