View Full Version : Glowplug Wiring
Jojo
24th February 2014, 07:22 AM
Hi all,
on my truck, the "English Patient", which is a 110 with the ominous Td-engine the glow plugs are serially wired. This means, if one is shot, the others won't work either. That is the situation I am having right now. As I am about to address this issue, I want to do the job properly and, if possible, convert to a parallel-wired glow plug system. 
Is there anyone around who has done this already? What do I need to do and how to proceed?
Thanks for any advice!
Cheers
Blknight.aus
24th February 2014, 08:04 AM
they're supposed to be in parrallel.
landrover stopped needing glow plugs in australia after the series diesel....
steveG
24th February 2014, 08:31 AM
Didn't even realise LR had serial glow plugs as I've only seen the 200/300tdi parallel ones.
Is it as simple as fitting a set of 200/300tdi plugs, wiring them in parallel and using either the factory relay/timer, or simply a pushbutton switch and solenoid to glow manually?
Steve
Jojo
24th February 2014, 06:01 PM
The parallel wiring came first with the Tdi-engine range. Mine, a 19J, doesn't have these and is wired in series. I am not sure, the 19J-engine maybe never made it to Oz? It basically is a 12J with a turbocharger added.
From what I know I will need different glow plugs and another kind of wiring (maybe even a relay?!?) to convert to parallel wiring, but am unsure of what else I need and how to do it properly, hence my question.
Please enlighten me so I can get this project done!
Cheers
steveG
24th February 2014, 06:50 PM
Outside my knowledge, but a quick Google comes up with a few forum references and points towards the likes of these conversion kits on ebay: Land Rover Series Diesel PRE 1983 Heater Glow Plug Parallel Conversion KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-DIESEL-PRE-1983-HEATER-GLOW-PLUG-PARALLEL-CONVERSION-KIT-/330684763087?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cfe590bcf)
Good luck :)
Steve
Jojo
25th February 2014, 05:43 AM
Thanks mate! 
That's what I'm after. The thing is, though, there I can buy the glow plugs and wires, but I could probably get these by myself if I would know the specification. Cables are easily obtained too, the thing I am wondering is if I will need a special set up as well, like a relay, which is standard on all parallel wired Land Rover engines.
I might just as well order one of these kits, making it easy, having all stuff at hand at once. As for the forum search, I did not get many references, but might have used wrong terminology.
Cheers
steveG
25th February 2014, 08:22 AM
That kit said it comes with "Instructions", so might be worthwhile sending a message to the seller to find out what that consists of. Might find he also does any extra bits and you can get everything you need at once.
Steve
Jojo
28th February 2014, 12:49 AM
they're supposed to be in parrallel.
landrover stopped needing glow plugs in australia after the series diesel....
Mate,
you were right, of course! No idea, how I could overlook the obvious. Probably got confused by the fact that I could not find a relay. Anyway, no need to convert, thanks for that. Still some problem solving required as there are only 10.6V at the plug terminals. Maybe this can contribute to the starting trouble? I'll put in new plugs next, could be the easy way to solve the problem.
Cheers
Red90
28th February 2014, 01:33 AM
A 19J should have parallel wired plugs.  Something is strange with your engine.
Red90
28th February 2014, 01:38 AM
See attached page from the part catalog.  You can see they are wired in parallel.
Plugs are ERC8450
ERC8450 2 1/4 & 2.5 DIESEL ENGINE HEATER PLUG | Land Rover Series 1, 2 & 3 Engine Electrical | shop | www.lrseries.com (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/5080/70/ERC8450-2-1-4-2-5-DIESEL-ENGINE-HEATER-PLUG.html)
steveG
28th February 2014, 05:59 AM
Mate,
you were right, of course! No idea, how I could overlook the obvious. Probably got confused by the fact that I could not find a relay. Anyway, no need to convert, thanks for that. Still some problem solving required as there are only 10.6V at the plug terminals. Maybe this can contribute to the starting trouble? I'll put in new plugs next, could be the easy way to solve the problem.
Cheers
Glow plugs pull a decent amount of current, so with 4 of them going they may well pull the supply voltage down that low and still be working perfectly. 
Have you tried pulling the plugs out and testing them on the bench?
Steve
Blknight.aus
28th February 2014, 02:09 PM
Mate,
you were right, of course! No idea, how I could overlook the obvious. Probably got confused by the fact that I could not find a relay. Anyway, no need to convert, thanks for that. Still some problem solving required as there are only 10.6V at the plug terminals. Maybe this can contribute to the starting trouble? I'll put in new plugs next, could be the easy way to solve the problem.
Cheers
sounds about right. they pull about 80 amps and there is either a current limiting sized bit of wire or a resistor in the system (depending on build spec of the rest of the vehicle) it should have a relay or if its direct power a dirty great push button switch,.
what colours your smoke on startup?
does the smoke disipate instantly once the engine is at revs and under load?
Jojo
28th February 2014, 06:14 PM
sounds about right. they pull about 80 amps and there is either a current limiting sized bit of wire or a resistor in the system (depending on build spec of the rest of the vehicle) it should have a relay or if its direct power a dirty great push button switch,.
what colours your smoke on startup?
does the smoke disipate instantly once the engine is at revs and under load?
Thanks, Dave! Haven't found the resistor yet and the plugs are activated by turning the key to the corresponding position. 
The smoke on start-up is whitish grey (I reckon it is unburnt fuel) and dissipates after a short period of driving/revving the engine, but not instantly.
Glow plugs pull a decent amount of current, so with 4 of them going they may well pull the supply voltage down that low and still be working perfectly. 
Have you tried pulling the plugs out and testing them on the bench?
Thanks, Steve! Yep, I had the plugs out before fitting the engine. They did work, but they are, well, aged. I ordered a set of new ones that will go in as soon as they arrive on my premises.
I found out the truck starts easier if I don't touch the accelerator (somewhat of a misnomer in this kind of vehicle) when running the starter in comparison to pressing it down a bit. Over-fueling maybe? But in a Diesel??
Red90
1st March 2014, 12:55 AM
Whit smoke on startup is fuel being completely unburnt.  Low compression, bad injection spray or retarded timing.
Check the timing first.  A bit advanced from the pin is usually good.  Then check the inectors.
Jojo
1st March 2014, 03:26 AM
Thanks for all your advice, folks! I have changed the glow plugs and now it starts with minimal waiting time (about 15 sec) and only a few cranks of the starter motor.
Compression was checked recently and turned out to be alright, only one cylinder (3) had somewhat lower pressure values, but well within the tolerances. Will check the timing next (but now the gearbox is giving me headache). 
Cheers
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