Penfold

[Mathernet]

Hey all

After a very lazy two year search I finally picked up a rather dashing 1969 IIa 88.

Seems very together with the original motor with just a few changes (alternator etc). I am intending to get it registered and then think what to do it. It has some needs - small amount of rust in rear cross member / suspension bushes / shocks? But is in otherwise good shape. I had originally intended to do a rather drastic resto but the patina is really nice so will maybe go the preservation route.

The engine runs sweet until it is asked to venture over 80kmh when it seems suffer from fuel starvation. I intend to start with the zenith carb as the pump and filter are new.

Does anyone have an old indicator stalk? Mine snapped in two. The bottom end still works with stump but it would be nice to find an oldie

[Mathernet]

I have a bit of a question on springs.
Mine rear springs have been off to the press for new bushes. Time soon to refit and I have noticed some differences in the eyes and need to know if how they go back is going to be important. I marked the springs left and right as I read somewhere that was important but front / back was not mentioned. Ok start with the drivers side.
One end looks like this:
86769
And the other like this:
86770
The eye of the spring is offset.
The near side has an offset but equal:
86771
86772

Does is matter? Has it the offsets appeared through use? I don't find that likely.

Any info gladly accepted.

[sisyphus]

G'Day, As far as I am aware the springs are definitely left and right , the right springs have more camber in them to allow for the weight of the driver and fuel tank so the LR will sit level , but I don't think the spring has a front or back ie direction , it'll be the same facing either way. In your pic it just looks like the bush has pushed out a bit and not central in the eye.

[JDNSW]

Springs are handed, right has more camber. Front and back are different.

The offset you note will have occurred during service, and does not matter unless the spring is rubbing on the shackle or hanger, and even then is not that important.

Did you get your fuel starvation problem solved? Likely to be an air leak in the suction line from the tank (or the screen on the bottom of the vertical pipe into the tank blocked), or, alternatively, an ignition problem, most likely points, but could be capacitor, coil or HT leads. These can do a very good job of mimicking fuel starvation. While a parly bocked carburetter jet is possible, this is unlikely to give the described symptom.

John

[Mathernet]

Thanks guys

The bushes are freshly pressed and flushed so it looks like deformation of the spring, which is surprising. Must have gone round a lot of corners.
The fuel problem I am working through. The car is not on the road so I cannot tell if I have fixed or not.

So far I have:
- rebuilt the carb, (including lapping the cover faces
- checked the tank uplift pipe (all ok).
- checked the line from tank to pump (this was clear but I am not sure how to check for air getting in?)

I have been told that there could be issues with fuel vaporizing in the line as crosses the engine.
I really need to get the cross member welded and the tub back on and give it a run.

[JDNSW]

Thanks guys

The bushes are freshly pressed and flushed so it looks like deformation of the spring, which is surprising. Must have gone round a lot of corners.
The fuel problem I am working through. The car is not on the road so I cannot tell if I have fixed or not.

So far I have:
- rebuilt the carb, (including lapping the cover faces
- checked the tank uplift pipe (all ok).
- checked the line from tank to pump (this was clear but I am not sure how to check for air getting in?)

Can be very difficult - one method is to pressurise the tank, about 5psi and look for leaks, but this is not infallible - the leak may be acting as a one way valve. The likely places to leak air are any of the joins in the pipe, and inspect it carefully for damage to the nylon tubing, and also suspect the gasket on the sediment bowl on the pump.

I have been told that there could be issues with fuel vaporizing in the line as crosses the engine.

Very unlikely, as the fuel is under pressure here, although this could be where the problem shows up if the pump is sucking air.

I really need to get the cross member welded and the tub back on and give it a run.

The spring situation will have arisen because there is a steady sideways load on the spring. This could simply be consistent driving on steeply cambered roads, but could also be because the three attachment points of the spring (dumb iron, shackle, and axle housing) are not in line or the spring is consistently twised sideways, which will happen if the vehicle leans.

The pad on the axle housing holds the spring flat on the axle, but the chassis is leaning - the leaf with the bush held in it will be kept twisted by the bush, but the other leaves will only be held twisted by the spring clamps, which will wear, and allow them to straighten somewhat, with the results you see.

John

[Mathernet]

Thanks

I think I will just replace the fuel lines. I noticed that the wire that retains the sediment bowl is not seated in its spot on one side. Long shot but I will take care of that.
I also have new condenser. The leads and distributor cap are a fail though. Old leads are screw type and the new are push type. Also the lead for the coil is way to short. Thank you britpart.
The springs will have to be a guess I suppose. It sat quite well before they came off but I never looked too closely.
I hope to cut the steel for the x member repair today. I need that fixed before the springs and axle go back.

[chazza]

I also have new condenser. The leads and distributor cap are a fail though. Old leads are screw type and the new are push type. Also the lead for the coil is way to short. Thank you britpart.


Give the boys at Performance Ignition a call About us (http://www.performanceignition.com.au/) they can make you a set of Magnecore high-tension leads and you will never need to replace them again.

They are across the other side of town from you, but they are the premier experts at anything to do with ignition systems,

Cheers Charlie

[JDNSW]

Thanks

.........
The springs will have to be a guess I suppose. It sat quite well before they came off but I never looked too closely.
I hope to cut the steel for the x member repair today. I need that fixed before the springs and axle go back.

If you lost track of which spring is left and right, simply put the one with the more camber on the right. If they are original, the springs should have the part number stamped on the convex side of the eye, facing down, at one end.

John

[Mathernet]

Rear x member repair underway.
8712187122

[Mathernet]

I will shortly be moving on to brakes. I have bought some copper nickel pipe. Can this be used in Victoria? Also can anyone recommend a usable flaring tool. I have my eye on a draper one on eBay. There is a place in town that could do it but it probably won't cost a lot more to buy the tool.

[Homestar]

There seems to be some debate about copper nickel brake lines - there is a thread running on that somewhere. Best thing to do IMO is go and ask the place you will get the RWC done - if they are happy to pass it, then you will be fine. That's what I'll be doing.

Flaring tools aren't expensive, but remember to buy a pipe cutter as well.

[Mathernet]

Thank Bacicat. I have a workshop in mind and will sound them out tomorrow.
I had heard horror stories about flaring tools but understand square clean cuts are the starting point. I have little pipe cutter somewhere so will dig it out. I will see what flare tools can be had at supernasty

[Mathernet]

Well, I am non the wiser about the brake pipes. The workshop suggested I talk to a engineering shop who would sell me the right thing. Grrrr.

I think I will just use it and tell the mechanic that the engineering shop said it was ok !
If they don't know they can't object eh.

[Homestar]

Unless they ask for proof, but you'll probably be fine. That or just get the steel bundy tube and use that - which is known and legal. A bit harder to work with, but still very doable at home.

[Mathernet]

I might try one more place, but it might be if its tubular and pipey they are happy.
Maybe with the next place I will turn up in person with the pipe

[Mathernet]

One more thing on the roady- I don't have a rear plate light at the moment. Anyone know if I will need one on a 1969 car?

[JDNSW]

Yes. Rear number plate lights are required on all cars, but I doubt any detailed specs for them existed then.

John

[gromit]

Regarding brake pipes :-

"Brake pipes must be of an appropriate material" according to the VicRoads Roadworthy requirements brochure.

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrSbmUvMYJU.EQAfwUL5gt.;_ylu=X3oDMTE0MmMxMjN sBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2dxMQR2dGlkA1ZJUEFVMDNfM Q--/RV=2/RE=1417847216/RO=10/RU=https%3a%2f%2fwww.vicroads.vic.gov.au%2f~%2fmed ia%2ffiles%2fdocuments%2fsafety-and-road-rules%2fvsi26_1212_web.ashx%3fla%3den/RK=0/RS=KulKJz1hn3hC8RRVyHz27xe0sp8-

That will probably mean it's up to the testing station and some will make up their own rules and/or interpret the rules differently.
Maybe send an email to VicRoads and ask what is an appropriate material. You could phone them but you'll lose half a day of your life on hold !

How does a testing station test what the material is, if it looks a bit like copper they might reject it. Copper/nickel tube is OK but you will be in the hands of your local testing station......


Colin

[Mathernet]

Thanks Gromit

I think the only way to sort this out is to take the pipe down there before I do the fitting.
Is some of the steel line copper plated anyway?

[gromit]

Thanks Gromit

I think the only way to sort this out is to take the pipe down there before I do the fitting.
Is some of the steel line copper plated anyway?

Most of the steel pipe I've seen is zinc plated externally or painted. The painted type doesn't work too well with some flaring tools (flakes off).

You can get neat bends with the steel with or without a bending tool, the bends below were done by hand.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/55.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%201%20with%20Welder/DSCF3456_zpsdde951b5.jpg.html)


Colin

[Mathernet]

88116
This is the stuff along side some copper tube (which I use for non car related activities!).

I was hoping to take it down to the roady place today but ran out of time.

I have had the old tyres stripped from the rims today and dropped the rims down for blasting and powder coating.

I was just going to get them blasted and paint them myself but the guy at the workshop said he would be able to match the limestone well.

I hope we don't have different opinions on the word 'match '........

[mick88]

Well, I am non the wiser about the brake pipes. The workshop suggested I talk to a engineering shop who would sell me the right thing. Grrrr.

I think I will just use it and tell the mechanic that the engineering shop said it was ok !
If they don't know they can't object eh.


"Flat Black" paint!!! ;)

[Homestar]

"Flat Black" paint!!! ;)

I've had a road worthy tester scratch the paint off brake lines before to make sure they weren't copper - which they were as it turned out - on my old 2A.

[Mathernet]

For something purely technical there is a lot of uncertainty involved. I am sure the nickel stuff has all sorts of international standards approved for the use. I think the situation is the rules don't say you can use it, but don't say you can't either. This makes it pretty hard to challenge a negative outcome.

[gromit]

For something purely technical there is a lot of uncertainty involved. I am sure the nickel stuff has all sorts of international standards approved for the use. I think the situation is the rules don't say you can use it, but don't say you can't either. This makes it pretty hard to challenge a negative outcome.

That sums it up, then add to that the fact that 'some' testers have their own rules....

Best of luck.


Colin

[Mathernet]

88409

Shiny wheels ready for new rubber. They were supposed to be on the rims by now but the powder coater let me down.
These are blasted, cold gal coated and finished in White Knight 'classic cream'.

I am not sure how long I should let them dry before taking them to the tyre place. I figure I will take them down tomorrow.

[Cobber]

I took my wheels down the next day and there was no dramas, had them back by lunch time without any kind of damage or wear :cool:

[Mathernet]

It gets worse. Just got the wheels back home from the tyre fitter and noticed that none of them have any balance weights. If you were fitting a tyre wouldn't you balance it? Is it optional? Sigh!

[normbourne]

I've had a nasty experience with a cheap flare tool, ($30-00) but it was no good.

It was American, the clamp was as it came from the casting shop and wasn't machined, as a consequence it was impossible to keep it square, as a result there weren't 2 flares the same.

Next thing was the pin on the primary forming die broke off. But the most upsetting part was despite the fact that it carried a lifetime warranty, the manufacture refused to honour it......!

At present there is a unit on eBay for $80-0 but it will only accommodate 3/16 and 1/4 pipes, but it looks a man enough tool to accomplish its task.

I've no doubt that when I get around to topping up with brake fluid, I will get leaks from the shonky flares and I will have to do them all again, so I intend to grab one..!

Luck,

Norm.

[Mathernet]

Ok.
Rear x member now welded. Well happy.
889608896388964

[Mathernet]

Questions

The axle is back in and I am about to roll is outside to wash the rest of the chassis.
I am intending to buy a drain cleaner attachment to clean the inside of the chassis before treating with fish oil. Anyone have any good ideas about how best to get the oil into the cavities?

I will then be dropping the tub and seat box back in. I have cleaned the remains of some seal tape of the panels. Any idea what to replace it with? I don't really want to use a mastic from a gun - it will make a mess and stick the panels together. The old stuff was a bit like white 'blue tac'

[gromit]

I used a body sealant but 4 Wheel Drives in Melbourne carry the stuff in the picture below. Used for sealing windows in doortops or windscreens.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/771.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3086_zpsebaf8720.jpg.html)



Colin

[chazza]

I am intending to buy a drain cleaner attachment to clean the inside of the chassis before treating with fish oil. Anyone have any good ideas about how best to get the oil into the cavities?

'

I used a container that once held underbody sealer and was designed to be sprayed direct from the can. For long distances the flexible hose can be replaced with a length of beverage tube from the hardware store.

Use Penetrol if you want to stop rust; fish oil is useless by comparison,

Cheers Charlie

[Mathernet]

I got some of this from bunnings
89112
I am hoping it will work. Since opening it seems very similar to what was installed except one side is stuck to a foil which is not great, but it is wide so I figure if I fold it in half so sticky both sides.

[Mathernet]

Well progress goes well and we are registered and on the road. In my pursuit of braking nirvana I was re re re bleeding the brakes when I noticed a drop of oil on the inside if the wheel. Closer inspection revealed that the oil seal that had been behaving itself since I fitted a new breather has now decided to be naughty again.

Anyway- hub off as I have a new seal that I bought just in case. A close inspection of the seal landing identified a Icke groove where the seal lip had sat.
91364
Now I also have one of those
91365
It is a bit of a pain to swap the seal landing so do I sling it back together as is or cut it off a press a new one on???