REDARC In Vehicle Battery Charger for 130 Puma

[Chenz]

I am setting up a 130 2008 Puma with a Trayon Camper and am looking to put a separate deep cycle auxiliary battery in the camper matched to the same type of battery in the 130 as an auxiliary.

I will also have a separate crank battery in the 130.

I am looking to install a REDARC 25A IN-VEHICLE BATTERY CHARGER/MPPT REGULATOR (BCDC1225) unit as I have been told by a couple of Auto sparkies that this will provide a more efficient way of charging the batteries than the usual battery management systems and can also boost the efficiency of solar panels in recharging as well.

Any feedback or information from the Aulro crew would be greatly appreciated

[Drover]

I have a BC/DC charger fitter in my Defender for about 2 years. It works a treat. As your sparky has said it boosts charging capabilities and managers your solar as well.

Great product and an all Australian company who manufactures in Australia.

[ozscott]

I use a Red Arc DC to DC IN my van with alternator feed and dual battery - full river ...they handle different batteries well. I also use it as a hi tech solar reg when panels attached. Forget the smaller Japanese ones.

Cheers

[modman]

Dc to dc chargers have me confused
I like to charge my aux batteries by bulk.
Most alternators offer the aux battery 100 + amps
I get the solar input but I like to charge my aux (gell cell) quickly, not a 25a trickle at the most
Search this topic on aulro
Many differing opinions
Some good reads from tombie and drivesafe
Did I mention traxide?
Dc
My bad!!
You mean 240 volt to car charger!!
Seems good and I install some of their simpler product......
Keep calm and carry on
Please post some pics, I'm interested in this set up for a clients camper trailer (2x120ah deep cycles)
Dc

[drivesafe]

Hi modman, what type of tow vehicle is your customer going to use to two the camper?

[drivesafe]

Hi Chenz and do some research, you will quickly find that DC/DC charging in any Land Rover is a step backwards.

[BigBlueOne]

I've been using a Redarc BCDC 1220 for the last 2 years in my 90. It is a great product. It always keeps my batteries charged and allows me to run my fridge, lights, compressor etc when needed. If i ever get a new vehicle i will be installing the Redarc into that also.

[Silenceisgolden]

I use the BCDC40 from Redarc, absolutely brilliant. Modman, with a simple solenoid type 'charger' you might get 100 amps but it won't be for long before your battery reaches a surface charge and the current drops right back. My Redarc charges at a full 40 amps right up until the battery has the full bulk charge, which a simple solenoid system cannot do.

As Drover said, it is an Australian company, and it is making world class up to date state of the art products. Worth supporting.

[Chenz]

Hi Chenz and do some research, you will quickly find that DC/DC charging in any Land Rover is a step backwards.

Thanks for the advice. I have used your products before, using your light upgrade kit in my 200 TDi - didn't have the light a match to see if the lights were on any more.

I am getting to the pointy end and need a to make a decision sooner rather than later. In a few short dot points can you tell me why this would be a backward step.

All of the sparkies and my Landy mechanic tell me that the REDARC is the way to go

[drivesafe]

I use the BCDC40 from Redarc, absolutely brilliant. Modman, with a simple solenoid type 'charger' you might get 100 amps but it won't be for long before your battery reaches a surface charge and the current drops right back. My Redarc charges at a full 40 amps right up until the battery has the full bulk charge, which a simple solenoid system cannot do.

Hi Silenceisgolden and this is the problem with sales people who “THINK” they know how these devices work and give customers the wrong advice.

( Chenz this should answer your post as well )

Your DC/DC device like all DC/DC devices, bulk charge the battery(s) until the battery is about 80% SoC and then the charger tapers off as the battery continues to charge.

This final 20% of the charge is done at no quicker time than what your alternator can do, with or without an isolator.

As for isolators not being able to equal what a DC/DC device does, yep you’re right their, just look at my systems for example.

If you are just topping of your battery, a DC/DC device will work fine, but whats the point, your alternator will still top up batteries.

But the advantage is not like your batteries will end up at a 20% higher charge state, at best it might be a 5% higher state of charge and even that is just for a short window, as your alternator will soon catch up.

But if you need to use a fair bit of power while camping, then you are backing the wrong device if you think your DC/DC device can do a better job at charging than on of my systems can do.

All modern deep cycle batteries can be safely discharged down to 20% SoC and if you have a 100Ah battery that your have discharged down to 20% SoC

It will take a 40 amp DC/DC device 1.5 hours to get that battery up to 80% SoC, while using the same amount battery capacity with my systems, you will have the batteries up to 80% SoC in about an hour and from the 80% mark, the charging time for both systems is about the same.

So with a 40 amp DC/DC device, you gain nothing over what your alternator and one of my isolators can do.

If you have a smaller DC/DC device you are going to take hours longer to fully charge the battery over the time it takes one of my system can do.

Now here are some advantages my system provides that NO DC?DC device can offer.

For no extra cost, you get about 50% more usable battery capacity.

Even when using the same amount of battery capacity as your set up offer, you will discharge and charge the batteries in a MUCH gentler way, helping to extend the operating life of the batteries.

With my system, you will not only charge the auxiliary battery but you will also keep your cranking battery in a much higher state of charge, again, something no DC/DC device can do.

But the most important thing is that my system not only does a better job of charging and looking after your batteries and does so at a fraction of the cost of your set up.

As posted above, as for isolators not being able to equal what a DC/DC device does, yep you’re right, my isolators actually do a lot better!

[drivesafe]

All of the sparkies and my Landy mechanic tell me that the REDARC is the way to go

Hi Chenz and most auto electricians have no idea how to set up an effective dual battery system and depend on the misinformation supplied by the many sellers of DC/DC devices to win customers over.

Now while I am continually trying to educate people about the true value, or more accurately, the lack of value these devices offer, and I may sound totally against them, in part this is correct.

The problem is not with the devices themselves, they are capable of charging batteries properly, again the devices themselves are not the problem, it’s the grossly misleading advertising hype that is used to market these devices that is the real problem.

Even at 40 amps, these device really only equal what the alternator in a typical modern Land Rover can do, combined with one of my isolators, and as stated earlier, at a MUCH lower set up cost, and these DC/DC devices still don’t offer the advantages of one of my systems.

Now again, while I may sound like I am against these devices them selves, I am not and I actually sell DC/DC devices.

I sell 100 amp DC/DC devices to industries that can get a genuine return for their investment.

These units are used in vehicles like mobile coffee vendor's vehicles, where they need to get as much charge back into their battery backs as quickly as possible so the vehicles are ready for the next days use.

I also supply them for use in service vehicles, where they use large amounts of battery capacity while on a work location and need to replace as much used battery capacity as possible while travelling to the next work location.

These 100 amp units are also idea for use with lithium battery backs in caravans and motor homes.

These 100 amp units are the Sterling BB12-100 DC to DC chargers and unlike the toys available to RVers, these have both battery temperature monitoring and compensation plus alternator temperature monitoring and compensation.

Sterling have had a 50 amp unit for years but I have never offered these because your average alternator can still match even a 50 amp unit.

The 100 amp units will well and truly charge batteries faster and the average alternator, PROVIDING there is a need to do so.

NOTE, I do not offer them to RVers as there cost is usually not warranted.

[Silenceisgolden]

I can't really agree with what you say. My 130 (TD5) alternator puts out 13.8 volts which is not enough to even nearly fully charge my Fullriver batteries which require 14.5 to 14.9 volts according to their website.

They also state that the maximum charge rate is capacity/4, so that a charge of 100 amps could damage any batteries of less than 400 a/h.

The graphs also show that if discarged to 20%, they only have half the life that they do if discharged to 50%. It's all here if anyone is interested. Of course, that is just one brand - others may be different.

http://www.fullriver.com/products/admin/upfile/DCseriesbrochures.pdf

[drivesafe]

Hi Silenceisgolden, and mate, you are missing a whole lot of of info.

First off, you do NOT need 14.5 to 14.9v to fully charge your batteries. This is a mistake most people make.

14.9v is the maximum voltage these batteries can be safely charged at. If you have a good look at the Fullriver site, somewhere on there they state that their batteries can be fully charged with a voltage of just 13.0v, it will just take a LOT longer.

Next, I am not suggesting you use one of the 100 amp DC to DC chargers, in fact I don’t even list them on my site for the reasons I posted earlier.

BUT, if you use one of these 100 amp chargers, because they come with battery temperature monitoring and compensation, your battery would not be charged at 100 amps.

As to discharge voltages.

If you were to go out every weekend and every time you go out, you discharged your battery down to 20% SoC, then you can only expect to get 5+ years of use from that battery, according to Fullriver's own specs.

How long do you think your battery will last if you only cycle it down to 50% SoC?

As above, you have missed a whole lot of info and when you factor in things like real use patens, even when cycling your battery down to 20%, SoC, your battery will die of old age way before before that sort of cycling use has any major effects on your battery’s capacity.

[Silenceisgolden]

I am sure you are right in what you say, but I do know that with my 130 the house battery battled to run the fridge over a two night stop after a full days driving, but with the Redarc DC-DC instead of a basic Redarc solenoid it has no trouble at all. Much better.

[drivesafe]

So what you are saying is that in your case, you got an improvement, because you could not fully charge your battery after a “full days driving”

If you could not fully charge ANY battery and ANY number of batteries after a full days drive, then there is something wrong with your setup.

Even at 13.8v, your alternator should have no problem FULLY CHARGE a low battery after a full days drive.

Again, somethings wrong with your setup.

[Silenceisgolden]

Maybe, but anyway, the Redarc completely fixed whatever was wrong. Works great now.

[incisor]

from the the pdf you pointed out

max voltage when fully charged 13.5v so anything above 13.5v is going to charge your battery.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=73586&stc=1&d=1393637487


charge voltages at various temperatures

so at 40deg C anything above 14.34v is wasted or bad it appears

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=73587&stc=1&d=1393637576


even worse under a bonnet or at the back of an engine under a seat.

[drivesafe]

Yep, his battery should have been at at least 95+% after a full days drive, and I rate a drive time of 5 hours as a full days drive.

While he has got around what ever the problem was/is, it’s a hell of an expensive solution for what was probably a simple and inexpensive fix.

[Homestar]

I can't really agree with what you say. My 130 (TD5) alternator puts out 13.8 volts which is not enough to even nearly fully charge my Fullriver batteries which require 14.5 to 14.9 volts according to their website.

They also state that the maximum charge rate is capacity/4, so that a charge of 100 amps could damage any batteries of less than 400 a/h.

The graphs also show that if discarged to 20%, they only have half the life that they do if discharged to 50%. It's all here if anyone is interested. Of course, that is just one brand - others may be different.

http://www.fullriver.com/products/admin/upfile/DCseriesbrochures.pdf

I run a fullriver in my 101 - off a simple solenoid at the moment, but with a Traxide kit soon - I'll explain more about that in a minute.

My wimpy little 35 amp alternator that can only punch out 13.8 volts can bring my battery back up to over 90% SOC (12.5 volts) after 6 hours on the road - from an overnight stay. Longer than that and my solar panel on it during he day. If I don't move and don't use my solar panel, I can still run my 38 litre Engel easily for 3 days and still not have it trip on low volts. Sounds like you have an underlying issue with your system.

Now, just to point something out about the Traxide kits. I have one in my L322 charging 2 UPS batteries. Once I fitted the kit I found something remarkable happened that you simply won't see from your setup. 2 things happened - 1st is that I got a lot longer running from my fridge and had better volts in the morning than I usually had - why? - because the Traxide kit keeps the house batteries and the cranking battery connected together until the volts drop quite a bit - this still gives you plenty of grunt in the morning to start the car, but makes life easier on your house batteries. The second thing is the best though. During normal day to day driving, this actually brings your cranking battery up to a higher state of charge. Most Winters - even with a new battery, I get the odd fault code thrown up due to low volts during cranking first thing in the morning. Now I get none of that. It cranks faster and starts easier, even when really cold.

Let's see you DCDC unit pull that trick out of its bag.:). I'm sure your unit is doing what you need it to do, but there are far better ways.

I'm a sparky by trade and know a bit about 12 volt stuff - more than most, but I realised quite soon after I joined here that Traxide knows more than anyone else I know. Your relying on the words of mechanics and Sparkys like me, but he makes a living - not just by selling this stuff, but by designing it too. He knows his ****.:)

His after sales service is also second to none by the way - there you go, free plug mate.:D

[Homestar]

It also looks like you may have misinterpreted the info on the Fullriver PDF.

"A discharged battery will accept a high charging current at the initial stage of charging. High charging current can cause abnormal internal heating which may damage the battery. Therefore, when applying a suitable voltage to recharge a battery that is being used in a recycling application it is necessary to limit the charging current to a value of 0.25C Amps. However, in float/standby use, FULLRIVER batteries are designed so that even if the available charging current is higher than the recommended limit, they will not accept more than 2C Amps and the charging current will fall to a relatively small value in a very brief period of time."

This shows that you need to limit current to 0.25C in a recycling application, but it will naturally accept up to 2C in normal use, so the battery could well take 100 amp from a good alternator (not mine:D) for some time if it was quite a way discharged.

Also, the charging voltage is stated at "For standby (float) use . . . . . . . 2.25 to 2.30 volts per cell"

So 13.5 to 13.8 volts will fully charge the battery.:)

[clubagreenie]

Put it this way. If I was able (and I'll explain why not in a sec) I'd buy the Traxide unit for you to trial, and if you were not happy just send it back to me. If happy keep it and send me what you think it's worth in the long run given it's features. I have one of Tims USI-160 units and it's faultless. Even after I dismantled it, cut and extended wiring and changed switches and LEDs to suit the installation it just works and does everything you want and more.

Now reason I'm not exactly financial ATM is I have just acquired a new toy (see image below). The elec system is quite good but I'll be documenting it and talking to Tim about what may or not be necessary to make it as good as it could be. I have recommended his Sterling units to a few others and they've been blown away by the specs and then the performance.

Toy.

http://www.justsail.com.au/wp-content/themes/boatdeck-default/thumb.php'src=http://www.justsail.com.au/wp-content/uploads/image/91/2013/653-DSC01364_-_Version_2.jpg&w=1200&h=900

[ozscott]

I think most people get DC to DC to allow full charging of dissimilar batteries that have different requirements for both charging steps and max charge. I was attracted to this. I was also attracted to the fact that the red arc seamlessly handles solar as an MPPT solar reg. it is a gr8 system. Good support too. I understand the rover alt drops off volts as the vehicle gets to full operating temp

Cheers

[Cracka]

Nice new yacht clubagreenie.



Mick

[drivesafe]

Hi Cracka and try selling it on any site where there are Ford Ranger owners.

These vehicles need the LV versions.

[drivesafe]

I think most people get DC to DC to allow full charging of dissimilar batteries that have different requirements for both charging steps and max charge.

Hi ozscott and when charging with any DC/DC device, you have to set the device for the type of battery you are charging.

But you can still charge dissimilar batteries with a DC/DC device, you just need to set the device’s maximum voltage setting to be no higher than the battery with the lowest maximum voltage.

Now this is totally unnecessary when charging with an alternator.

DC/DC devices are constant current chargers and the final stage charging voltage has to be manually set as posted above, but because all alternators are constant voltage chargers, they not only do not require any voltage adjustments, they actually work very well at charging any number of dissimilar batteries at the same time and they charge EVERY battery at that battery’s optimum charge rate.

There are lots of mythical claims made about DC/DC devices being “SMART” chargers and alternators supposedly being dumb chargers. The exact revers is the case.

Alternators are far smarter than most of these “SMART” charging device, and add to this that while the alternator is charging all your batteries, it’s also power your vehicle’s needs and running all your accessories.

Many DC/DC devices are causing problems for the battery being charged by them if a fridge is being power from that battery at the same time.

As above, no such problem with alternator set-ups.

[drivesafe]

I was also attracted to the fact that the red arc seamlessly handles solar as an MPPT solar reg

Hi again ozscott and the solar charging “extra” feature found on many makes of DC/DC device is in many cases a waste of time.

With many caravans, motor homes and even a small number of camper trailers now having solar panels fitted to their roofs, the solar part of these DC/DC devices is only available if the motor is NOT running, because these devices can only draw input power from one source at a time.

Whereas, if you fit nothing more than a solar regulator, you can be charging the batteries from the alternator and the solar panels at the same time, giving you an even more powerful charging system.

So once again, just another example of how these “SMART” charging devices are not so smart, especially when compered to what an alternator can do.

[ozscott]

Thanks mate. In my situation I use only portable panels that charge after the van in parked and vehicle is disconnected. I have a 3 way in the van. When towing the power fir the van fridge comes from the vehicle alternator and when disconnected it's either 240v or LPG - never house battery. The Fullriver is only for van lights, fans etc not fridge. Good setup and works very well. Would work very well for a compressor fridge also off the house battery. I get 13.4 volts at the back of the 3 way fridge with the d2 idling - I like big wiring...

Others may have a different set up but the dc to dc works well for mine. It was recommended to me by my brother who has been fitting them for years and with 2 dissimilar batts being charged directly by the alt his point was that the van batt would never be properly and fully charged. This made sense to me as the Alt can not discriminate - it cannot sense more than one voltage. I'm not going to get into the Traxide v dc dc debate - it's good to have choice.

Cheers

[drivesafe]

with 2 dissimilar batts being charged directly by the alt his point was that the van batt would never be properly and fully charged. This made sense to me as the Alt can not discriminate - it cannot sense more than one voltage.

Hi again ozscott and sorry mate but this is the crap put out by the sellers of DC/DC devices as a means of tricking people into thinking their alternator can’t charge batteries.

Unlike DC/DC devices, which must be MANUALLY set to the correct charge voltage of the battery being charged, alternators automatically charge ALL battery types correctly.

I have many customer with as many as three different types of batteries in the set ups and their alternators charge all their batteries correctly.

Furthermore, an alternator does NOT sense battery voltages, this is just more mythical crap. Alternators charge in such a way that they do not need to sense any of the batteries, yet an alternator still charges all the batteries properly.

Again ozscott, sorry but you and your bother have been lead to believe these devices can achieve thing results they really can't, by all the MISLEADING advertising hype and as most people still use alternator direct charging and don’t have problems, the evidence contradicts your “beliefs”

[ozscott]

Its a wonder no one has taken on Redarc for false advertising....a redundant product then...its all very odd...to much for me but thanks for your take on it mate. Good to get views of vendors of different charging systems!

Cheers

Cheers

[drivesafe]

Hi ozscott, the sellers of these devices are not using “FALSE” advertising as such, they just imply their devices will do better then an alternator, with out ever showing how their device will achieve this.

As I have posted many, MANY times, DC/DC devices “can” full charge batteries, and alternators rarely fully charge batteries.

The problem with the advertising is that an alternator “can” also fully charge batteries but usually fails to do so because people rarely drive long enough to allow the alternator to have the time to full charge batteries.

DC/DC device suffer from the very same problem but this is NEVER covered in the advertising hype.

In Silenceisgolden’s case, because of the size of the DC/DC device he now has, he will charge his battery quicker, but look at what it has cost him, and in his case, he was driving long enough for his alternator to achieve full battery charging but he had/has a problem with his set up, which negated proper charging.

I have posted repeatedly that a simple graph, comparing how a given DC/DC device will charge a battery compared to how an alternator will charge the same battery would give potential buyers a genuine idea of what does what.

The reason no DC/DC seller posts up comparative graphs is that once they did, no one in their right mind would by a DC/DC device.

[Silenceisgolden]

I dunno, it is all confusing. I am happy with my set up, but it would be really nice if a vendor of DC-DC types was on the forum. As Ozscott says, it would be good to get different vendors viewpoints, and it is good to have choices.

Googling on the internet for help is not always easy, as you don't know whose info is good and whose is biased.

[incisor]

I dunno, it is all confusing. I am happy with my set up,

and that is the bottom line... you trust it and your happy with it


but it would be really nice if a vendor of DC-DC types was on the forum. As Ozscott says, it would be good to get different vendors viewpoints, and it is good to have choices.

Googling on the internet for help is not always easy, as you don't know whose info is good and whose is biased.

imho the reference pdf you posted answers your own questions.. the sales pitch doesn't match the referenced data.

put your right, it is always good to have info backed by facts and different viewpoints.

[drivesafe]

Hi Silenceisgolden and I am a DC/DC device vendor, but unlike most sellers of DC/DC devices, I don’t just sell them for the added profit margin.

My 100 amp DC/DC devices are way more advanced that any of the gear that has been covered here and my 100 amp units would recharge most battery set up faster than your alternator will.

BUT, just using your driving situation. Why should I con someone, like yourself, into spending $600 on a device that will NOT give you any real advantage because you will still have a fully charged battery at the end of your days drive, without the huge additional expense.

[ozscott]

Drivesafe - I suppose I have a different consideration here to most people - I paid the wholesale price...much, much, much less than $600. So for me the DC to DC BCDC1225 Red Arc option was very reasonably priced.

Cheers

[Kevin B]

but it would be really nice if a vendor of DC-DC types was on the forum.

Agreed, maybe a polite, introductory Email from an Administrator to a couple of other vendors inviting then to this forum explaining that the installation of aux batteries is a relatively hot topic on AULRO.

1993 Discovery 1 3.5l
2" Lift, Cranked HD Trailing Arms
31" Maxxis Mudders
Tons of Radios, Tons of Spotties

[drivesafe]

Hi ozscott and while my post wasn’t that clear, the $600 is for my 100 amp DC to DC units, I have no idea what the other brands go for.

BTW, my actual price to the trade for the 100 amp DC to DC units is $599.

[Homestar]

Agreed, maybe a polite, introductory Email from an Administrator to a couple of other vendors inviting then to this forum explaining that the installation of aux batteries is a relatively hot topic on AULRO.

1993 Discovery 1 3.5l
2" Lift, Cranked HD Trailing Arms
31" Maxxis Mudders
Tons of Radios, Tons of Spotties

It's quite a hot topic on several forums I visit - not just here. You should see how the Caravan crowd carry on...:D There are DCDC vendors on some of these sites that spruke their stuff. Still have yet to hear any compelling evidence to suggest a DCDC device can do what is required in my vehciles better than the alternator can do apart from lightening my pocket by many hundreds of dollars.

If your system works for you - great, and that is the main thing. Tim is just explaining the technical side of it to try and dispell a few myths that seem to be perpetuated on this subject. He isn't trying to tell you your systems won't work, they will - no dramas there.:)

To each their own.

[ozscott]

Thanks Drivesafe. Yes the BCDC1225 is $379 on ebay with free delivery and I paid a lot less than that making it for me a very tasty proposition.

Cheers

PS. I have looked at the threads on the Caravaners forum and Prado point and they go to quite a few pages!

[ozscott]

Here is an interesting review of the Redarc.

Product Review No.4 - Redarc BMS1215 / Redarc BCDC 1220 DCDC charger/SBI212 Smart solenoid @ ExplorOz Blogs (http://www.exploroz.com/Members/92954.750/12/2010/Product_Review_No_4_-_Redarc_BMS1215___Redarc_BCDC_1220_DCDC_charger_SB I212_Smart_solenoid.aspx)

Cheers

[Kevin B]

It's quite a hot topic on several forums I visit - not just here. You should see how the Caravan crowd carry on...:D There are DCDC vendors on some of these sites that spruke their stuff. Still have yet to hear any compelling evidence to suggest a DCDC device can do what is required in my vehciles better than the alternator can do apart from lightening my pocket by many hundreds of dollars.

If your system works for you - great, and that is the main thing. Tim is just explaining the technical side of it to try and dispell a few myths that seem to be perpetuated on this subject. He isn't trying to tell you your systems won't work, they will - no dramas there.:)

To each their own.

Im not fussed either way, i have a system i designed and built that works very well for me that has been derived by reverse engineering a few different brands, (i'm not bad on an iron and etching PCB's) would just be good i think to have a few more manufacturers/vendors especially from there technical departments that could explain there product a bit better as well.

[Chenz]

Thanks for all the interesting info guys. I was unaware of the dc dc v alternator debate was so hot. I have looked at a number of sites and read a lot of info from this thread and others and am weighing up my options.


In the end, what I want is to be able to drive in the great outdoors for the day, pull up at a spot I like for a couple of days and get a coldie out of the fridge and not see that bloody error light on the Waeco in the Trayon.


Thanks for all your input guys it was very enlightening

[drivesafe]

Hi Chenz and one of my kits will not only give you more battery capacity to run your accessories, which means there is far less likelihood of your fridge’s error light coming with my systems, you also end up with both batteries being kept in a higher state of charge, and again this further reduces the chances of your fridge’s error light coming on.

No matter if it’s a DC/DC set up or a standard VSR set up, there is no other dual battery system on the market that gives as much available battery capacity as what my systems supply.

Again, this means you are far less likely to have a fridge error light come on, or another way to put it, with one of my kits, you can run your fridge for at least 50% longer, before the error light comes on.

[weeds]

Hi Chenz and one of my kits will not only give you more battery capacity to run your accessories, which means there is far less likelihood of your fridge’s error light coming with my systems, you also end up with both batteries being kept in a higher state of charge, and again this further reduces the chances of your fridge’s error light coming on.

No matter if it’s a DC/DC set up or a standard VSR set up, there is no other dual battery system on the market that gives as much available battery capacity as what my systems supply.

Again, this means you are far less likely to have a fridge error light come on, or another way to put it, with one of my kits, you can run your fridge for at least 50% longer, before the error light comes on.

the only problem I see with this design is...which I think I have experienced...is when your start battery is starting to falter and you don't want to draw off it as you need to get to the end of you trip. although I could have a miss understanding of how the system works.

when I thought my controller was failing the other week I had full intention of going back to a simple solenoid.....KISS

[drivesafe]

I think it’s important that people know that DC/DC devices are not the first option, as all the advertising tries to make out, but should actually be considered as a last option.

In many set ups, DC/DC devices come in in a poor second place to what an alternator can do by itself.

Then add the way my isolators improve both the use and the the charging of batteries, there is no way a DC/DC set up can be justified as being “BETTER”.

At the end of the day, the aim is to have the highest charge batteries as possible. My isolators allow you to do this far “better” than DC/DC devices can, and for far less outlay.

Long term, the aim is to get the longest possible life span from a battery. Again, because of the way my isolators work, your batteries are not worked anywhere near as hard as they are with a DC/DC dual battery set up, based on the same amount of energy used, so again, my systems offer far better long term results.

Then there is the fact that my systems give the user, on average at least 50% more usable battery at no extra cost or no increase in weight or additional lost of space.

So Drover, can you point out where a DC/DC device is an advantage over one of my set ups?

[Sirocco]

I thought the reason for going BCDC was if you had a temp sensing alternator or one which shuts down when a desired voltage had been reached.

Do isolators work in the above case? I thought not as well.

G

[drivesafe]

Hi Sirocco, because of the unique way my isolators operate, they work very well with most of these variable voltage types of alternator systems.

My isolators do NOT work on vehicles like the Ford Ranger.

[herrBlick]

Well yes Drover, this is usually the case but when I, as a vendor, see people being deliberately mislead by all the one sided advertising hype used to sell DC/DC devices, I think it’s important that people know that DC/DC devices are not the first option, as all the advertising tries to make out, but should actually be considered as a last option.

In many set ups, DC/DC devices come in in a poor second place to what an alternator can do by itself.

Then add the way my isolators improve both the use and the the charging of batteries, there is no way a DC/DC set up can be justified as being “BETTER”.

At the end of the day, the aim is to have the highest charge batteries as possible. My isolators allow you to do this far “better” than DC/DC devices can, and for far less outlay.

Long term, the aim is to get the longest possible life span from a battery. Again, because of the way my isolators work, your batteries are not worked anywhere near as hard as they are with a DC/DC dual battery set up, based on the same amount of energy used, so again, my systems offer far better long term results.

Then there is the fact that my systems give the user, on average at least 50% more usable battery at no extra cost or no increase in weight or additional lost of space.

So Drover, can you point out where a DC/DC device is an advantage over one of my set ups?

I have to agree I run my arkpak using drivesafe's equipment every time I drive the thing is charged 100% and lasts 3 days ....tried and tested in Tassie this year....

[alittlebitconcerned]

Hi Sirocco, because of the unique way my isolators operate, they work very well with most of these variable voltage types of alternator systems.

My isolators do NOT work on vehicles like the Ford Ranger.


Does that include the type of alternator in an 08' Puma?

[AndyG]

DriveSafe,
I've purchased your Def-USI-160 , but yet to install. When starting the motor, does the auxiliary battery contribute to the cranking effort ?
Hope this Q is not too stoopid

cheers
Andy

[Witchdoctor]

drivesafe,
Do you do a system to charge Lithium duel battery?

David

[drivesafe]

Does that include the type of alternator in an 08' Puma?

It sure does alittlebitconcerned.

I have supplied quite a few DBS for Pumas.

[drivesafe]

DriveSafe,
I've purchased your Def-USI-160 , but yet to install. When starting the motor, does the auxiliary battery contribute to the cranking effort ?
Hope this Q is not too stoopid

cheers
Andy

Hi Andy and it’s not a stupid question at all.

And yes the USI-160 allows an amount of the auxiliary battery to be drawn on, to assist in starting your motor.
This has no adverse effect on the auxiliary battery, no matter what type it is.

This form of operation helps to extend the operating life of your cranking battery in two ways.

1 ). It gives a partial reduction in the load placed on your cranking battery while you start your motor.

2 ). Because you draw slightly less from your cranking battery while starting your motor, you need less driving time to replace the energy use to start the motor.

So again, andy, anything but a stupid question.

[drivesafe]

drivesafe,
Do you do a system to charge Lithium duel battery?

David

Hi David, I think I remember your set up.

I supply a system for charging Lithium batteries in caravans, motor homes and work vehicles and it would be idea for your setup.

I am not sure you might want to go this complex but it covers everything needed for good house battery charging, lithium or lead acid.

The system comprises of one of the newly reprogrammed DT90 isolators, ( or a specially programmed ABG-15 if you do not have other auxiliary batteries in the vehicl), a Sterling Pure Sine Wave inverter equipped with an RVD safety trip, and a Promariner battery charger.

The DT90 ( new CARAVAN version ) controls the power going to the inverter, only powering the inverter once the motor has been running for 5 minutes.

The inverter's AC output is now protect with the Australian developed and patented RVD, which make these inverters the safest in world.

The two main reasons why I use the Promariner battery chargers is that these chargers have setting for charging any form of 12v ( or 24v ), including two dedicated Lithium battery charging algorithms.

Plus the Promariner battery chargers have three separate isolated charging outputs, which simplifies their use in dual rolls of charging batteries and power 3 way fridges, because when the charger is off, the batteries are isolated from the fridge.

When the inverter turns on, the battery charger is powered up and one output is used to charge the batteries and another output can be used to power a 3 way fridge.

David, hope all this is of some use to use and if you would like some more details, ask away.