Ashcroft HD CV shafts and front diff seals - leaking?

[twr7cx]

Anyone else here have Ashcroft heavy duty front half shafts and CV joints < Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/cv-joints/disco-ii-cv-and-front-shafts.html) > fitted and had issues the front drive shaft oil seals leaking? In 6 months my seals on both sides have started leaking (spraying oil on the inside of the wheel and tyre) and now the passenger side is dumping oil out if the vehicle is parked with it on the lower side.

I used a genuine Land Rover front drive shaft oil seal on one side and a cheapo pattern on the other, but both are leaking.

Going to pull it apart and redo, but was wondering if anyone else has experienced this - i.e. is it a side effect from the Ashcroft product?

[Ancient Mariner]

You cant blame Ashcroft for leaking hub seals:eek:

[OffTrack]

You cant blame Ashcroft for leaking hub seals:eek:

Seeing the D2 has driveshaft seals not hub seals and the OP has Ashcroft HD driveshafts I'd say it it's a fair question to ask.

[justinc]

d2 ball joint issues will create leaks too...


jc

[twr7cx]

I'm waiting on the new parts from the UK (hub nuts, seals and top and bottom ball joints), but, I just found this thread, < Front axle seal - Page 2 - DiscoWeb Message Boards (http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php't=84219&page=2) > which made for interesting reading (particularly p. 2).

Note the comment by seventyfive (emphasis added):


post a picture of the half shaft so we can see where that metal dust shield is on the axle. If your dust shield flange isn't almost all the way against the seal that could be your problem.

WHICH Is the giant issue I have with Ashcroft front D2 axles.....if that flange isn't a tolerance fit on the axle it moves out towards the CV and leaks like a sieve.

The pictures posted up near the bottom of the page by listerdiesel are great for showing how the seal works, including the secondary seal on the flange.

The Ashcroft shafts don't include the flange part, this has to be transferred from the old shafts. I suspect this may be where the issue occurs.

[Tombie]

The lip touching the flange is to assist keeping dust out and away from the inner lip...

There are 3 sealing points on the oil seal, 1 internal (keeps oil in), 1 external (keeps dust and water out) and the 3rd external is to keep dust away from the main external face.

It (the outer soft face) isnt there to stop any grease or oil.

[ScotsD2]

Are hub bearings 100% I know the amigos should tell you a bearing
is on its way out but bearing wear may have an effect on the seals.

[twr7cx]

Are hub bearings 100% I know the amigos should tell you a bearing
is on its way out but bearing wear may have an effect on the seals.

I don't know. When I removed them 6 months ago when I fitted the new diff centres and shafts, they seemed fine, I couldn't feel any play in them. JC also had a look at one and didn't see any issue.

I have been getting the three amigos caused by the rear left wheel a few times.

Maybe I should just change them while I'm back in there...

[Steve223]

Anyone else here have Ashcroft heavy duty front half shafts and CV joints < Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/cv-joints/disco-ii-cv-and-front-shafts.html) > fitted and had issues the front drive shaft oil seals leaking? In 6 months my seals on both sides have started leaking (spraying oil on the inside of the wheel and tyre) and now the passenger side is dumping oil out if the vehicle is parked with it on the lower side.



I used a genuine Land Rover front drive shaft oil seal on one side and a cheapo pattern on the other, but both are leaking.



Going to pull it apart and redo, but was wondering if anyone else has experienced this - i.e. is it a side effect from the Ashcroft product?


I have them fitted but no issues so far

[ss_0001]

The lip touching the flange is to assist keeping dust out and away from the inner lip...

There are 3 sealing points on the oil seal, 1 internal (keeps oil in), 1 external (keeps dust and water out) and the 3rd external is to keep dust away from the main external face.

It (the outer soft face) isnt there to stop any grease or oil.


Exactly. You did fit the seal the right way round, right? Ask me how I know.... I fitted one the wrong way round, twice... It's on my list of jobs now to do a third time.

[twr7cx]

Exactly. You did fit the seal the right way round, right? Ask me how I know.... I fitted one the wrong way round, twice... It's on my list of jobs now to do a third time.

I didn't want to answer this until I had checked, but I can now confirm with absolute certainty that the oil seal was installed the correct way.

For anyone wondering which way they go:

This is the side of the oil seal that goes INTO the diff housing:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1169.jpg

This is the side that should face out towards you:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1170.jpg

[twr7cx]

There are 3 sealing points on the oil seal, 1 internal (keeps oil in)

which is this lip with the spring fitted:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1169.jpg

As far as I understand the wavy pattern moulded into the lip (visible on the next picture below) has a purpose is assisting the lip to seal.


1 external (keeps dust and water out) and the 3rd external is to keep dust away from the main external face.

It (the outer soft face) isnt there to stop any grease or oil.

Visible in this picture:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1170.jpg

and this is the collar on the driveshaft that the outter dust seal goes against:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1171.jpg

[twr7cx]

This morning I pulled apart the front passenger side which had the worst leak:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1146.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3290_zps0db19d6d.jpg.html)

Leaked oil all over the inside of the tyre:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1147.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3289_zps23a06e7e.jpg.html)

Pool of leaked oil on the bottom of the steering knuckle:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1148.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3291_zps25605022.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1149.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3292_zpsd6527287.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1150.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3293_zps77a961b9.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1151.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3300_zps3e1b6c01.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1152.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3301_zps47c2277c.jpg.html)


The ball joints look to me like they are in good condition - there is no damage to the rubber boots and I cannot feel any play.

Upper:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1153.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3294_zpsdecb7630.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1154.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3295_zpsfd7b8876.jpg.html)

Lower:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1155.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3296_zps4ebb438a.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1156.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3297_zpsf5b94072.jpg.html)


The bearing in the wheel hub seems to still be good - I cannot feel any play and it doesn't cause the three amigos issue.


The garage supervisor provided no assistance:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1157.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3298_zps1e2158c5.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1158.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3299_zpsebe91e8c.jpg.html)


Upon eventually reaching the seal it became obvious why it was leaking:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1159.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3306_zps9b67bdf4.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1160.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3307_zpsf41268f1.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1161.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3308_zps1cf25b95.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1162.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3309_zpsa98fa1dc.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1163.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3310_zps97322cc5.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1164.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3311_zps7f01b345.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1165.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3313_zps41bb9489.jpg.html)


What I'm unsure about is what caused the damage to the seal!?!

I thought perhaps I have not fitted the collar to the Ashcroft drive shaft low enough to protect the seal?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1166.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3302_zps0e850697.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1167.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3303_zps5a2271ae.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1168.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3304_zps207e790f.jpg.html)

[twr7cx]

Details of another users experiences - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2197870#post2197870

[EvilGTV]

I've seen that type of failure on standard axles. I replaced the driveshaft seals on my disco when I replaced the balljoints, as a preventative measure. Used genuine seals, only to have both sides leaking within 2000 km, the left one badly so.

Upon dismantling, the centre section was completely detached, and sitting inside the diff housing. Having NEVER seen any sort of seal fail like this, I inspected everything very carefully. Long story short, I happened to still have my original seals (factory fitted, I'd guess) sitting in the bin, and when I measured them against the new genuine ones I'd got to replace the new leaking ones, I discovered the new ones were about 1mm smaller in all diameters through the middle of the seal - including the parts that should never touch the axle, what I would term the 'clearance diameter'. Which meant that this section which shouldn't actually touch the axle (outboard of the spring loaded sealing lip) was actually the same diameter as the axle itself, and making contact. No oil should get past the lip to that point, so you have dry rubber with steel rubbing against it - no wonder it ripped the guts out of the seal.

So I'd suggest anyone replacing driveshaft seals should measure the 'clearance' ID of the seal, and ensure it's 36mm or larger - 1mm larger than the 35mm of the standard axle sealing surface. Inside the lip should be about 32mm with no pressure applied to verniers. Genuine seals with 'made in India' on the packet will probably be wrong. I have some 'NAK' branded seals sitting here which are the correct dimensions, not sure which distributor they come through, but I got them from Ritters. Haven't actually fitted them to my car yet, as I didn't damage the original seals when I pulled them out, and they weren't leaking, so I cleaned them up and refitted in preference to the new genuines I had at the time - and guess what, they're still not leaking 6,000km later.

However, I did dads balljoints a couple of weeks after mine, with the same genuine seals, and his failed in exactly the same way and timeframe. He fitted the 'NAK' brand replacements, and hasn't mentioned any problems yet, I would say he'd have minimum of 7500km on them by now.

[bell1975]

Thanks for the very informative post and useful pictures.

I've learned more about balljoints and driveshafts in the past 10 minutes than I knew previously!

BTW, your garage is too tidy...

[TYE]

Yes i have the same problem, found if you keep the oil capacity to about 1.7 litres in the diff the leak is not so bad. If you have ashcroft heavy duty CV i found that IVECO have a very good heavy rubber boot to fit the CVs.

[sierrafery]

this thing is the nightmare of my life...i've never had oil leaks there, was dry as a bone for years...untill i fitted that expensive HD drive shaft + CV kit ... fitted them as they came first, starter to leak next day, thought it's cos they dont have those mud-shields, removed them from the old shafts managed to fit them on the new ones, put new seals...same story, checked the drain pipes to not be clogged - clear, replaced all the ball joints with new lemforder, no joy, put two new hubs(albeit the ones on the car were not old - all Timken type), same story... removed the whole thing and bought new hardy spicer drive shafts, now it doesnt last more than 1000Km and starts leaking... in the last year i've replaced at least a dozen pair of seals of all kinds from genuine, corteco to bearmach, allmakes even tried with some no name seals from a specialised store where i bought them by dimensions(atrangely these lasted the most:eek:)... i'm out of ideas now i'm thinking to buy a complete front axle from a breaker cos i found a low mileage one at good price...and all this saga has begun when i removed the old shafts and fitted those HD ones... that's my luck

[twr7cx]

fitted them as they came first, starter to leak next day, thought it's cos they dont have those mud-shields, removed them from the old shafts managed to fit them on the new ones, put new seals...

The included instructions clearly stated to remove the shields from your old units and fit to the new. It is not surprising that they leaked without the shields as the oil seal seals on the shaft part of the shield. See my pictures earlier in this thread for more on this.
I am amazed that for the price Ashcroft still do not supply the shields fitted.

Have you checked the condition of your shields? Are they true or did they get bent/damaged during removal and refitting?
Have you installed them the correct way around?
Have you installed them in the correct position? The largest lip of the oil seal seals against the shield too in order to stop dust/dirt entering and damaging the shield. If you have the shield installed too far out (too close to the hub) it will allow this dirt and dust to get past and damage the oil seal.

The point raised by EvilGTV regarding the oil seal sizing may be applicable in your case too.

[twr7cx]

I measured them against the new genuine ones I'd got to replace the new leaking ones, I discovered the new ones were about 1mm smaller in all diameters through the middle of the seal - including the parts that should never touch the axle, what I would term the 'clearance diameter'. Which meant that this section which shouldn't actually touch the axle (outboard of the spring loaded sealing lip) was actually the same diameter as the axle itself, and making contact. No oil should get past the lip to that point, so you have dry rubber with steel rubbing against it - no wonder it ripped the guts out of the seal.

So I'd suggest anyone replacing driveshaft seals should measure the 'clearance' ID of the seal, and ensure it's 36mm or larger - 1mm larger than the 35mm of the standard axle sealing surface. Inside the lip should be about 32mm with no pressure applied to verniers. Genuine seals with 'made in India' on the packet will probably be wrong. I have some 'NAK' branded seals sitting here which are the correct dimensions, not sure which distributor they come through, but I got them from Ritters.

This is an interesting point.

I have here two different brands of front axel oil seals (FTC4822):
Britpart which Britcar advises is the OEM for this part < Your Search Results > Britcar (UK) Ltd (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=ftc4822) >, and
AllMakes4x4

Both measure at 35mm through the inner holes diameter (not the lip of the seal).

Sadly NAK Australia don't list the Discovery 2 oil seals (nor does it list the P38 Range Rover which uses the same) - http://www.nak.com.au/files/catalogue.php'make=Landrover&model=Discovery&model=Landrover&model=Range%20Rover&model=Defender

You mentioned that you have some new NAK seals sitting there. Can you see if there are any part numbers on them?

[sierrafery]

there were no such instructions in my kit, actually there were no instructions at all just the kit in a nice box, the mud shields were in perfect conditions. the seals were fitted as they should be and as i said this leaking issue continues with new standard hardy spicer shafts too:mad:

[twr7cx]

there were no such instructions in my kit, actually there were no instructions at all just the kit in a nice box, the mud shields were in perfect conditions. the seals were fitted as they should be and as i said this leaking issue continues with new standard hardy spicer shafts too:mad:

O. I received an A4 sheet of paper with instructions for installation.

If, the issue is caused by the inner diameter of the oil seal being too small, as per EvilGTV's post above, then regardless of what brand shafts you use the issue will occur as the oil seals seal on the shield part, not the shaft, which are the same for all.

I am going to try to get ahold of these NAK brand seals and test for myself.

[sierrafery]

i'll dig out my caliper then ;)... i bought the kit in 2001, maybe they've got some feedback and put instructions after that.... it's quite unfair imo to not put those mud shields from factory at that price :(... speaking about that, my mechanic was continuosly complaining that the seals seem thicker than they need to be and they rub against the mudshields even on the new standard shafts.... he tapped back a bit the shield on the RH side and it seems the leak is almost gone there... i'm programmed next week to him again for seal replacement and he'll do that both sides and we'll see.

[twr7cx]

they rub against the mudshields even on the new standard shafts.... he tapped back a bit the shield on the RH side and it seems the leak is almost gone there...

Not sure what exactly you mean about rubbing against the mudshield.

There are three lips/sealing points on these seals - see my post #12 for details. The largest seal lip should be touching the shield in order to seal out any dirt/dust and avoid it from being able to get past and cause damage/wear on the seal.
The smallest seal lip seals on the collar of the shield.

[sierrafery]

believe me m8, i know exacly how those selas are cos i've seen them quite a lot lately, especially when they looked like chewed by a crocodile:D ... what i meant was that the seal seemed too thick and there was too much pressure between it and the mudshield ...like the shield pushed on the seal too hard into the axle if you see what i mean...sorry i cant explain better in english...since my mechanic tapped out(toward the joint) 1mm the right shield that seal seem to behave better

[twr7cx]

That makes sense.

[EvilGTV]

Part number on the NAK seals I have is SG9AYW2. Unfortunately I don't know that it's going to help much, I just quickly googled and got absolutely zero....

I'm not too surprised that you have a few aftermarket seals that measure up too small - I suspect they'll have been copied off (or come out of the same factory as) the genuine seal which is now wrong.... Something obviously went screwy with the dimensions when they moved production to India.

[sierrafery]

those which came to me when i ordered genuine were in corteco box with LR badge and after that i ordered corteco from dedicated seal dealer an they were the same, it's the only cross refference number i found for FTC4822 and it seems it has 35mm inner diameter -> CORTECO 15034858B (http://www.yoyoparts.com/oem/3539750/corteco-15034858b.html) :confused:

[sierrafery]

found another one part nr 452 29006 613

[twr7cx]

Part number on the NAK seals I have is SG9AYW2. Unfortunately I don't know that it's going to help much, I just quickly googled and got absolutely zero....

Any chance of pictures of the text on the seals themselves and the packaging that they are in?

Is the packaging NAK branded?

I contacted NAK Australia < http://www.nak.com.au/files/content.php'sec=contact > today and they advise that it is not an NAK part number...

I contacted Ritter < http://ritter.com.au/contact-the-team-at-ritter-for-all-your-land-rover-questions/ >, they don't know what brand there's are. But when I quoted the genuine part number (FTC 4822) the guy stated to me straight away that they do not carry the genuine ones as they leak, they only have aftermarket ones. I asked if they were NAK Brand. He went and got them off the shelf and said that there is no brand markings on them. He stated that there's do not leak, so I ordered them anyways, I need to try something different to stop the leak...

[sierrafery]

it's too "fresh" to be able to confirm that it is the real cure or not as i had all the brands available in the european market(britpart, allmakes, bearmach, OEM, genuine, corteco) and they all have 35mm ID and all leaked in 2000 - 3000km ...removed yesterday the shafts which have 34.98 OD where the seal fits and i took them to a man with a lathe and rectified them to 34 OD then fitted corteco seals ...now we'll see.... i saw on the US market which is more available for your area those 452 29006 613 ( Axle Shaft Seal Eurospare Front WD Express Fits 99 04 Land Rover Discovery | eBay ) maybe you should try these

[sierrafery]

after i was made idiot on the other thread i spoke again with my "lathe man" and he admitted that it seemed to him too that 1mm might be too much(and as he knows too that i'm an idiot) in reality he rectified the shaft to 34.3 as he thought that 0,05mm will be enough just missed to mention that to me

my wife made around 75km today with the car and it's still dry as a bone at the left shaft, which might not mean much(the right one with 34.98 OD and the 35 ID seal is still leaking... and i say again all the seals i removed in the last year(around a dozen) looked like chewed by a crocodile)

WARNING: DONT DO THAT ON YOUR OWN CAR COS IT'S BASED ONLY ON MY OWN EXPERIENCE.

[twr7cx]

I think I will rather try the seals from Ritters before having the expensive parts physically modified to compensate. Considering your efforts, I'm suprised you didn't too before embarking on this more radical step...

The biggest issue I can see with lathering the OD of the shafts down is that the lip of the seal, the actual bit that is meant to seal, may not reach down that extra and therefore you could just be introducing another leak reason. No evidence has come about yet that the actual seal lip ID has been reduced (it may have but ewe don't know), only the ID of the body of the seal.

[twr7cx]

Well Ritters were useless. Spoke to them yesterday about the seals, I specifically asked for the NAK ones. The guy went and got them and stated on the phone that they were not marked with a brand and were just a generic one that they have tried and tested and found do not leak like the genuine ones.

Based on this statement and EvilGTV's experience I decided to take a chance. They arrived today (quick freight a credit to Ritter on that at least), this is what I found:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/942.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3714_zps99d33ad5.jpg.html)

I am not sure how he could not tell what brand they are. It's written in big bold text as the first line - "ALLMAKES4X4".

What's also annoying is they charge $25.00 per seal which usually I buy in the UK (exact same brand) for $3.59 each.

In the picture above the left package is the one received and the right is the one that I already had on a shelf here. The new ones are more recent manufacture, the packaging is larger and the seal is all oiley inside.

I also notice that Britcar no longer stock any of them - http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=ftc4822&xPage=1&xSort=&xPriceFrom=0&xPriceTo=0&currency=7

[EvilGTV]

Allmakes is not necessarily the brand, just the distributor. Mine weren't in the same bag as that, mine were in a translucent blue bag that obviously had a number of seals in it originally, and has an indecipherable website written on it (I can only make out .com). The NAK brand is on the seal itself. What are the internal dimensions of those Allmakes ones?

With regards to the seal lip itself being reduced in diameter, the new made in India genuine seals I had were 1mm smaller in every internal dimension than the original (probably factory) ones that came out of the car. The lip itself was actually a bit more than 1mm difference, as you would expect due to wear. From memory they even still had the same 'nominal' dimensions stamped on them as the originals, but measured up smaller. Don't think they had the Land Rover part number on the seal itself either, unlike the original ones.

[twr7cx]

Allmakes is not necessarily the brand, just the distributor.

I realise that, but it's likely that AllMakes4X4 uses a single manufacturer for this part. So the AllMakes4X4 ones that I have already likely were made in the exact same place. Either way they are not NAK brand and have no brand identification markings on them.


What are the internal dimensions of those Allmakes ones?

35mm.


With regards to the seal lip itself being reduced in diameter, the new made in India genuine seals I had were 1mm smaller in every internal dimension than the original (probably factory) ones that came out of the car. The lip itself was actually a bit more than 1mm difference, as you would expect due to wear. From memory they even still had the same 'nominal' dimensions stamped on them as the originals, but measured up smaller. Don't think they had the Land Rover part number on the seal itself either, unlike the original ones.

In this case sierrafery's idea of machining the dust shield collars is looking more and more attractive...

[sierrafery]

today i drove only 26km and still dry like a bone(the rectified side only) , IMO a deffinite answer would be only after 3000km which was the more the last ones lasted(which were bearmach)...my lathe man said he'll "fabricate" any dimension mudshiled for me from special steel which is suitable for this kind of applications for the equivalent of around 15USD...but if this one will leak without finding the seal destoyed i'll take out the other one and rectify it to 35.5 first, those shafts were removed at least once a month in the last year anyway.

[twr7cx]

I wish I could find a cheap machinist...

[twr7cx]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/913.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/axel_zps319bdabf.jpg.html)

[sierrafery]

that's how they were all fitted on mine(i mean in the correct way)

[EvilGTV]

I realise that, but it's likely that AllMakes4X4 uses a single manufacturer for this part. So the AllMakes4X4 ones that I have already likely were made in the exact same place. Either way they are not NAK brand and have no brand identification markings

Not necessarily, they could use a number of suppliers, and also could change at any point in time, which is what I was thinking may have occurred. However, if the new ones aren't the right dimensions (I assume you measured them with verniers or something, not just going off what's marked on them) obviously not the case here...

[twr7cx]

Mine weren't in the same bag as that, mine were in a translucent blue bag that obviously had a number of seals in it originally, and has an indecipherable website written on it (I can only make out .com).

Not like this blue bag I assume then:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/781.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3744_zps54132bcf.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/782.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3745_zps04427fba.jpg.html)



The NAK brand is on the seal itself.

Out of the three different batches of seals that I have here, they have the following on them:

Britpart GI 35097 CD/07/13 has the following written under the larger dust lip:

35 65 9/14.6

AllMakes4x4 11 Dec 2013 has the following written under the larger dust lip:

35 65 9/14.6

AllMakes4x4 10 Jul 2014 has the following written under the larger dust lip:

35 65 9/14.6

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/783.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3747_zps06cbb80e.jpg.html)

The only difference that I can see between any of them is between both the AllMakes4x4 brand seals and the Britpart in that the lines moulded into the seal on the outter circumference are faint on the Britpart seal whilst they are sharp and more prominent on the AllMakes4x4 brand seals:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/711.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3748_zps32c621fb.jpg.html)

I checked out the Kelpro range of seals during the week but they don't list anything for Discovery 2.


Opened up the drivers side today due to oil leak:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/784.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3729_zpse3240629.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/785.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3730_zpsec81029c.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/786.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3731_zps66aead0d.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/787.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3732_zps16d23f94.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/788.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3733_zps9ee4ac2d.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/789.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3734_zps8c920ee9.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/790.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3735_zps369f4714.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/791.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3736_zps873077fc.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/792.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3737_zps69aa03c8.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/793.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3738_zps21dfc3ea.jpg.html)

When I fitted the Ashcroft CV kit I replaced the original oil seals - one side was fitted with a genuine Land Rover part supplied by Tilford the Hobart Land Rover dealer and the other side was fitted with a Britpart seal which Britcar claim is the OEM supplier < FTC4822 | OIL SEAL DRIVESHAFT P38 NEW RANGE ROVER | Britpart | Discovery 2 - 1999 to 2004 | Britcar (UK) Ltd (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/86620/0/oil_seal_driveshaft__p38_new_range_rover) >.
Both have failed. The drivers side took a bit longer though. I cannot remember which side was fitted with which seal but it's somewhat irrelevant as both have failed far too quickly.

With the driveshaft out and cleaned up and the new AllMakes4X4 seal (supplied by Ritter) I can feel the point that the internal hole in the seal starts to catch/rub/friction on the collar of the dust shield as it's pushed on. It's visibly clear that there is no clearance between the collar of the shield and the body of the seal:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/794.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3739_zpsf0570245.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/795.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3740_zpscab9519e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/796.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3741_zps98533271.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/797.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3742_zps2aa3adab.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/798.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3743_zpsf12ba307.jpg.html)

Whilst my driveshafts are Ashcroft brand the shields are the genuine Land Rover items removed from the original driveshafts - so the problem would likely still be the same if I was using my original shafts.


Whilst looking on the Britcar website I noted that FTC4822 superceeds part number FTC3452 < http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=ftc3452 >. I wonder what changes were made and if there is any old stock of FTC3452 available for comparison purposes.

Also found part number 45229006613 for a Eurospare brand.

[sierrafery]

the original factory fitted seals have BAFHE KOMBI 35-65 9/14.6 CFW3 FTC4822 stamped on them see how they are

i have around 800km now with the rectified shaft and still dry like a bone

[twr7cx]

That picture doesn't work as it's on a part of TD2BC that requires registration for access (I registered days ago and am still waiting the approval so that I can view the thread at D2BC.co.uk &bull; Login (http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34260) ).


I found the TSB regarding the changeover from FTC 3452 to FTC 4822. It dates back to 30/10/1996 and is in relation to Range Rover (P38A I assume?) owners complaining about oil leaks at the front. So what LR did was make the seal in two parts so that it has the ability to have some movement - that's why the body of the seal is now the two metal parts.
The first page of the TSB is viewable at http://www.jeepolog.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=86490&d=1397899310
There's a good description of the change in http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/18188-front-driveshaft-oil-seals.html:


The revised design mentioned in the TSB is significantly different.
There is the inner ring, which seals to the shaft, the outer ring which seals to the axle tube, and joining them is a thin flexible membrane that allows the shaft and it's snug seal to float about in relation to the tube, all the time maintaining the total oil tightness.

[sierrafery]

i attached the pic in my last post

[twr7cx]

Well, the thread on TD2BC < D2BC.co.uk &bull; Login (http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34260) > is certainly an interesting read. It has some great pictures of the measurements of the seals too.

It would seem that the original OEM supplier of LR FTC 4822 was Corteco < Corteco:*Welcome (http://www.corteco.com/en/home/) > with their seal 15034858B.
LR have changed suppliers to a Made In India supplier. Britcar claim that Britpart is the OEM supplier now - which seems likely and their packaging is marked OEM.
AllMakes4x4 must be making their own/using a different supplier as their country of origin is GB.
Since LR stopped using Corteco as the supplier, Corteco seem to have stopped manufacturing the seals, so unless you can find NOS of the LR/Corteco seals, your in trouble...

A Corteco seal should be identifiable by text on it saying - "BAFHE KOMBI 35-65 9/14.6 CFW3 FTC4822".

[Tombie]

Something isn't right in those images ;)

I may have to tear down the D2 one day and get measuring! In fact, Junior needs the CV boot replaced so may be soon...

[twr7cx]

I removed the shield from my drivers side axel shaft and look the axel, shield and some of the seals to a local engineering firm. They're making me two new shields with a 1mm small OD. Should be ready in 2/3 days.

[petmic]

Well, the thread on TD2BC < D2BC.co.uk &bull; Login (http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34260) > is certainly an interesting read. It has some great pictures of the measurements of the seals too.

It would seem that the original OEM supplier of LR FTC 4822 was Corteco < Corteco:*Welcome (http://www.corteco.com/en/home/) > with their seal 15034858B.
LR have changed suppliers to a Made In India supplier.

I agree.


Britcar claim that Britpart is the OEM supplier now - which seems likely and their packaging is marked OEM.

My understanding is that Britpart used to supply the Corteco seals about two years ago - LR was already supplying Indian seals by then. There is a report ( D2BC.co.uk &bull; Login (http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13199&p=177199&hilit=bahe#p177199) ) saying the Britpart seal has BAFHE COMBI text.

Then i guess Britpart's own stock of Corteco seal run out and they have started supplying Indian made seals. I bet they are from the same factory as the new genuine LR.



AllMakes4x4 must be making their own/using a different supplier as their country of origin is GB.
I am not 100% sure if Allmakes are honest about the country of origin. Their seals (i have 2 in my stock) look the same as Britpart/new genuine LR. I cannot spot any difference and i looked for over 15min (even with magnifying glass). I believe they came from the same manufacturing line as Britpart/LR.



Since LR stopped using Corteco as the supplier, Corteco seem to have stopped manufacturing the seals, so unless you can find NOS of the LR/Corteco seals, your in trouble...

A Corteco seal should be identifiable by text on it saying - "BAFHE KOMBI 35-65 9/14.6 CFW3 FTC4822".

Yes, this is true. I tried hard but Corteco made seals are really all gone.

[sierrafery]

I removed the shield from my drivers side axel shaft and look the axel, shield and some of the seals to a local engineering firm. They're making me two new shields with a 1mm small OD. Should be ready in 2/3 days.

i'm looking forward to that:) ... we'll be two with machined shields then:D

[Tombie]

I'm stunned they are making a seal with no heel clearance to the mating surface :(

[EvilGTV]

I'm stunned they are making a seal with no heel clearance to the mating surface :(

So was I when I measured it up. Really not good enough for genuine parts to be incorrect dimensions, IMO. Someone at LR really screwed up when they off shored this part...

The original seals removed and subsequently refitted to my car indeed had BAFHE marked on them - I knew it was something slightly odd, but couldn't remember what it was. Still not leaking, of course.

Now, as far as alternatives to the corteco seal - SOMEONE is distributing these NAK seals I have here, and they are the correct dimensions...

[EvilGTV]

Photo of the bag here - can't work out how to get more than one photo per post with the stupid Ipad.

[twr7cx]

Photo of the bag here - can't work out how to get more than one photo per post with the stupid Ipad.

Can you take a photo of the label on the bag please?

[twr7cx]

I am not 100% sure if Allmakes are honest about the country of origin. Their seals (i have 2 in my stock) look the same as Britpart/new genuine LR. I cannot spot any difference and i looked for over 15min (even with magnifying glass). I believe they came from the same manufacturing line as Britpart/LR.

The only difference that I can find:


The only difference that I can see between any of them is between both the AllMakes4x4 brand seals and the Britpart in that the lines moulded into the seal on the outter circumference are faint on the Britpart seal whilst they are sharp and more prominent on the AllMakes4x4 brand seals:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/711.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3748_zps32c621fb.jpg.html)

[petmic]

The only difference that I can find:

Actually you are right. Those molded rings on Allmakes4x4 PR2 seals appear to be fainter on my samples too. Well spotted.

[twr7cx]

Actually you are right. Those molded rings on Allmakes4x4 PR2 seals appear to be fainter on my samples too. Well spotted.

What is meant by PR2?

On mine it is the Britpart brand seals that have the fainter rings. So perhaps they are made in the same place and it's a variance by batch?

[twr7cx]

Picked up my new shields this afternoon from the engineering firm. $140.00 for the pair. They have a 1mm smaller OD on the collar. You can feel it when inserting into a seal, there is no friction on the body of the seal, not until the collar starts on the seal lip (which is the only part that is meant to touch).

I feel like these are the solution, in which case it was $140.00 well spent.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/701.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3756_zps68cf1cd1.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/702.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3757_zpsf39862ed.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/703.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3758_zps143a97b6.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/704.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3759_zps1442498b.jpg.html)

[petmic]

What is meant by PR2?

On mine it is the Britpart brand seals that have the fainter rings. So perhaps they are made in the same place and it's a variance by batch?

PR2 stands for Premium Range with 2 years warranty Allmakes 4x4 Premium Range - PR2 | Manufactured with Precision | Allmakes 4x4 (http://www.allmakes4x4.com/pr2)

[Tombie]

Look like a reasonable solution!

What finish are the sealing surfaces machined to?

[twr7cx]

What finish are the sealing surfaces machined to?

There's different finish options? Not something I was aware of/thought of. I took the old one, the axel shaft and two new seals in with me so that they would have a complete idea of how it all fits and functions, as well as for measurements.

[Tombie]

If the finish is too rough (layman terms) it will tear the sealing lip.

I ask because (may just be camera / light) it appears the machined parts are showing visible tool marks.

Run your finger nail across - if you can feel small ridges it is too rough.

[petmic]

The finish on the new mudshields looks to rough to me too. If the surface roughness is not "lip seal" rated (polished well enough) the seal will fail in no time.

[sierrafery]

might be... mine was made with a "rectifier"/grinding machine(i dunno how it's named in english) but the surface of the shield was almost like glass.

[twr7cx]

Ok, it seems I need to polish up the shields then...

[twr7cx]

Ok, it seems I need to polish up the shields then...

Results of my initial efforts:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/582.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3776_zps35410960.jpg.html)

Running my finger nail over the surface now it feels smooth and doesn't catch.

I started with 220, then 320, 400 and finished off with 600. Going to run it on the buffer wheel to finish.

Still need to the main collar of the shield for the dust seal lip. I've got a bit of an idea for doing that part.

[Tombie]

Good work!

[twr7cx]

I used a bolt, nut and some washers to fit the shields into the drill press and then sand them and polish:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/518.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3794_zps893509c1.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/519.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3795_zpsaf96fad6.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/520.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3796_zps849cd4e1.jpg.html)

Visibly there is still some lines. But I cannot detect/feel these at all:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/521.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_3797_zpsad059d1b.jpg.html)

I've taken a chance and fitted the new shield to the drivers side. Time will tell. I'll do the passenger side when the current seal starts to leak.

[sierrafery]

well done.... i have a strong feeling that it will not leak, i have over 2000km now and still dry... that CV joint area haven't been so dry for many months before

[twr7cx]

I just had a flick back through this thread. I last did the passenger side seal on the 5th April. I fitted a Britpart brand seal. It is not leaking yet. It's probably survived 3,000km so far. I've got the new shield here and waiting for when it's ready!

[petmic]

well done.... i have a strong feeling that it will not leak, i have over 2000km now and still dry... that CV joint area haven't been so dry for many months before

2000km is not a lot. i did 6200km before it has started to leak.

[petmic]

to twr7cx: you did a great job polishing the mudshields

[sierrafery]

2000km is not a lot. i did 6200km before it has started to leak.

i know but it's about the average of when mines all failed completely...some of them even after 1000km

[petmic]

to twr7cx: How are your new mudshields? no leaks so far?

[twr7cx]

to twr7cx: How are your new mudshields? no leaks so far?

I have driven from Hobart to Albury-Wodonga leak free. I'm on a course for work for the new few weeks, so won't be doing many km's until the drivehome. It will be this time next year once they've done at least 10,000km that I'll be confident to 100% confirm this as a solution - but so far so good and the fit is much much better and more like a seal should be!

[sierrafery]

:cool: ... mines are dry too...already lasted more than all the others in the past year

[petmic]

mine leaks again..after less than 400km...i will have to rectify the mudshields i guess

[xuddle]

Hello,
I'm a new user of the forum, I live in Rome Italy, I've your same problem twr7cx, I have changed a lot of times the drive shaft oil seal but the seal loses oil again, I have some questions for you, have you solved your problem reducing the collar of drive shaft 1 mm? How can I do to take off the collar from the axle shaft? Have you used the lathe to reduce the diameter of the collar?
Thanks in advance.

[twr7cx]

Hello,
I'm a new user of the forum, I live in Rome Italy, I've your same problem twr7cx, I have changed a lot of times the drive shaft oil seal but the seal loses oil again, I have some questions for you, have you solved your problem reducing the collar of drive shaft 1 mm? How can I do to take off the collar from the axle shaft? Have you used the lathe to reduce the diameter of the collar?
Thanks in advance.

It is too early for me to claim that this is the fix- it will take me a year to travel 10,000 km, after which I would be satisfied to claim that it is solved.

Have you read through this thread? I ask as it was made pretty clear that I had new collars manufactured by a local engineering firm rather than reduce the size of the originals. I wanted to keep the originals one I ever needed them again.

As for removing the collars, it's not too hard. First the shaft needs to be taken off the vehicle. Then I used wood with a hole cut in it to tap them off. They're just a press for. Care does need to be taken to not bend them.

[sierrafery]

I have 5400km with mines and still dry...after all i went through with the last dozen of seals now i'm confident that it's cured,


@xuddle, you dont have to take the mud shields off the shafts, put them as they are in the grinding machine and reduce the diameter to 34.2... unless you can get hold of some seals from the old stock with 36 ID

[petmic]

I got made two new mudhsields. They are sitting on my desk at the moment. Need to find some time for another half shaft out exercise. I am attaching a drawing for anyone who would like to get the mudshield made. Be aware i haven't tested the mudshield made to this drawing yet. The OD of the surface for the seal is 34.30mm - same as sierrafery suggested.

[petmic]

As for removing the collars, it's not too hard. First the shaft needs to be taken off the vehicle. Then I used wood with a hole cut in it to tap them off. They're just a press for. Care does need to be taken to not bend them.

Have you taken the CV off then? I do not want to touch the CV. My plan is to use some heat (plumbers torch) on the collar which should expand it and it should fall off the halfshaft with little help. Friend of mine has reported this method worked a treat for him.

[twr7cx]

Have you taken the CV off then? I do not want to touch the CV. My plan is to use some heat (plumbers torch) on the collar which should expand it and it should fall off the halfshaft with little help. Friend of mine has reported this method worked a treat for him.

I left the CV in place.i used two pieces of timber with half moon cut out and screwed into place too get in between the CV and collar.

[twr7cx]

I noticed that Britcar have listed NAK brand oil seals now - FTC4822 | OIL SEAL DRIVESHAFT P38 NEW RANGE ROVER | Eurospare | Discovery 2 - 1999 to 2004 | Britcar (UK) Ltd (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/447980/0/oil_seal_driveshaft__p38_new_range_rover) - none in stock though. Their supplier is Eurospare.

On another note, and putting it here for my records so that I can find it again when I want/need to. I disassembled the the passenger side and removed the current seal (which I fitted back in April after the leaking started in January/February which caused me to originally start this thread). The seal had not ripped like the other two, but the lip had stretched out and the spring had moved, so it wasn't in great condition. Fitted a new seal, AllMakes4x4 brand and changed the dust shield collar piece over on the shaft to the new ones and refitted. Hopefully this is the last time for a long time!

Inspected the other side which I did back in late August with the new seal and shields and they're still dry. One issue I did note is that the new shield had some surface rust on the outer side. The OEM shields have pitted and corroded over their 11 year life, but not surface rust so I assume the material used is different. Note for anyone getting them done to perhaps consider a stainless steel material rather or some other metal less likely to rust. I sprayed it with fish oil in hopes that it might reduce further rusting.

[petmic]

I noticed that Britcar have listed NAK brand oil seals now - FTC4822 | OIL SEAL DRIVESHAFT P38 NEW RANGE ROVER | Eurospare | Discovery 2 - 1999 to 2004 | Britcar (UK) Ltd (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/447980/0/oil_seal_driveshaft__p38_new_range_rover) - none in stock though. Their supplier is Eurospare.

I wanted to order that about a month ago. I spoke to Britcar and they didn't know when it will be in stock. My impression is they only list it on their website but have never got it in their stock.

I did about 1000km with the new shield i got made and Allmakes PR2 seal. All good so far.

My gut feeling tells me the Allmakes PR2 seals are probably better than Indian made ones distributed by LR, Britcar & Bearmach. But neither of them will work with the genuine shields with 35mm dia.

[twr7cx]

I wanted to order that about a month ago. I spoke to Britcar and they didn't know when it will be in stock. My impression is they only list it on their website but have never got it in their stock.

In the past I have ordered various items through Britcar that have been listed as not in stock on their website and they have ordered it in for me once the order has been placed and paid for. I imagine that the NAK seal is not a brand that they will ever keep in stock and on the shelf.

[xuddle]

A question, why have you reduced the diameter of the collar to 34.2 mm and not to 34.0 mm?

[twr7cx]

A question, why have you reduced the diameter of the collar to 34.2 mm and not to 34.0 mm?

Where does the 34.2 mm figure come from? When I had my new units manufactured they were made 1 mm smaller than the originals - not sure what exactly that equaled though.

[sierrafery]

This 34.2 came from one of my posts as i was the first with that "experiment" of reducing the mudshield's OD to not kill the 35 ID seals... it came out like this as i had more brand seals, some of them had 35.18, others 35.07 and the man with the griding machine reduced the mudshield's OD step by step, first to 35.4 and which seemed tight cos he tried the seals on it, then to 34.2 and this seemed OK , made a test with 35.0 too and he was worried that the seal wasnt tight enough so his recommendation was to leave them at 34.2 and if it will leak this way will go down to 34.0 and i agreed but on a second thought we decided to fit one 34.2 ond one 34.0 ...the fact is that i've fitted the 35.18 allmakes seals and it's dry like a bone after more than 4000km....that's all...unfortunately i was dumb enough to not wright down which is where and as my memory is not the best i dont even know hoe they are now

[sierrafery]

Remembered about this thread by seing this still ongoing issue on other forum, i just wanted to report that after around 25K km everything is still OK in the seal area :cool:

[twr7cx]

I can confirm that I have not had any issues either since having the small shield units made up.

[RobMichelle]

Gday twr7cx, still no leaks?
I have just received my new Ashcroft CVS axles and rear axles, my head is spinning reading this thread,great job you guys have done. I'm wondering if I should get new shoelds made before fitting and new seals. So which seals did you end up with and do you think engineer who made up your shields would make some more?
We have a trip planned to Tassie in march.

[sierrafery]

Hi, from the experience of few english guys who fitted them with positive results it seems that the ONLY seals which are still good and last on the original mud shields ate NAK seals NAK Front Axle Driveshaft Hub Seal Fit Land Rover Discovery 2 Range Rover P38 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NAK-Front-Axle-Driveshaft-Hub-Seal-Fit-Land-Rover-Discovery-2-Range-Rover-P38-/181693247011) , IMO worth a try before you modify the mud shields, unfortunately i didnt have access to them at my time:( ... other seals are failing in no time(below 1000km) so if they dont fail within this range they'll last for long.... you can measure the ID of them and if they are very close to 36mm(above 35.8 anyway) they'll be OK, i see that the guy who sells them has 100% positive feedback so you could message him and ask him to measure the ID cos even if it's listed to be 35mm it might be more as to fit for 35mm application.

[RobMichelle]

Thanks sierrafery,
Mine aren't leaking but would be a pita if I install everything then it leaks so might as well change with those you mentioned.
Rob

[Tombie]

Another alternative is to fit a 35x65x9 DL oil seal and then a V-Ring behind it.
The V-ring will keep the dust and dirt at bay and the seal is easily sourced from a local bearing shop.

[mrapocalypse]

So are D2 cvs/front shafts that bad?

Seems like a huge amount of bother to through unless you are doing extreme 4wd.

Maybe just a spare cv?

Ian.

[twr7cx]

Still no diff oil leaks for me since having the new shield manufactured. I used a local engineering firm, K & D Purdon Engineers. I took a genuine product in and explained what I was after.

I think that I tried NAK seals (can't be bothered reading back over the thread now to find out) and that did not solve it for me either though. EDIT: according to page 9 I didn't try NAK seals but Britcar can get them in for you now which might be a good way to go.

[Kaaaiju]

Ok ordered NAK seals so I'll see how they go, what's the best way to put them in? The seals?

[broken08]

Ok ordered NAK seals so I'll see how they go, what's the best way to put them in? The seals?


Did this work?
This is still a problem all these years later!

[Kaaaiju]

Did this work?
This is still a problem all these years later!


yes been using NaK ever since

[RRT]

yes been using NaK ever since


Thanks just ordered some