GULLWING WINDOW INSTALL

[voltron]

I bought a Gullwing window and just wanted to hear from anyone who's installed one if it was possible to get it in without removing the interior trimming around the window?

I ask because I have a custom roll cage and it will be a major pain in the ass if i have to unbolt and remove the cage to be able to remove the interior trimming. It's not actually the cage that is in the way but the custom cargo barrier that is attached to it.

Any help would be much appreciated. If it's not possible does anyone want to buy a Gullwing window.

Cheers.

[CraigE]

Would be difficult to do I would think. I took mine out.

[landy]

I think it would depend on the brand of Gullwing. Mine are front runners and are bolted in with Allen bolts. So you have to remove the trim. I think Bushman posted his fitting some but his are pop riveted in so his brand may be possible.

Whichever you have, fit them. They are great and well worth the effort. You will be glad you did.

Cheers

Nino.

[CraigE]

To clarify mine are also Front Runner.

[n plus one]

I doubt it - particularly in terms of making sure the Gullwings is fully sealed against the body.

Bite the bullet and pull the interior out - gullwings are worth the effort!

If it makes you feel any better I had to pull my cargo barrier, rear parcel shelf and interior water tank to fit mine. Pulling the trim will give you a better understanding of how the truck fits together and you'll be able to check a bunch of bolts for tightness too.

[voltron]

Cheers guys.

Guess it's got to be done.

[n plus one]

Cheers guys.

Guess it's got to be done.

Also, unless you're only doing it to install a cupboard behind it, do both at once - cos' once you've got one, you'll definitely want two!

[rijidij]

I've installed a few gullwings in customer's cars (The Australian made ones as sold by Mulgo). The worst part of the job is removing the original window if you have the later type that are not riveted in. They are stuck in place with double sided tape and also a sealant which tends to ooze inside a little. This means you need to get to the inside to cut the sealant. There are also plastic clips inside which must be removed.
The most time consuming job is cutting through the sealant and double sided tape on the outside. To do this, I recommend you get a 'flexible' paint scraper so you can get in between the window frame and body. Sharpen the corners of the scraper and tape over the paint work around the window.

If you have the earlier windows which are riveted in, the job is a LOT easier. Remove the rubber filler strip and drill out the rivets from the outside. Remove the old window, fit the new one in place and mark the rivet holes from the inside. Remove the window and drill the holes through the frame.
If you have the early windows, I believe it might be possible to do the swap with out having to remove internal trims (I think) but you would either have to accurately measure the rivet holes, or just drill new holes and not worry about using the original holes.

It can be a pain in the butt to install the gullwings, but as others have said, they are worth the hassle. They really transform the access to the back of your wagon. I have one in my County and would love to install a second one.

Cheers, Murray

[voltron]

I've installed a few gullwings in customer's cars (The Australian made ones as sold by Mulgo). The worst part of the job is removing the original window if you have the later type that are not riveted in. They are stuck in place with double sided tape and also a sealant which tends to ooze inside a little. This means you need to get to the inside to cut the sealant. There are also plastic clips inside which must be removed.
The most time consuming job is cutting through the sealant and double sided tape on the outside. To do this, I recommend you get a 'flexible' paint scraper so you can get in between the window frame and body. Sharpen the corners of the scraper and tape over the paint work around the window.

If you have the earlier windows which are riveted in, the job is a LOT easier. Remove the rubber filler strip and drill out the rivets from the outside. Remove the old window, fit the new one in place and mark the rivet holes from the inside. Remove the window and drill the holes through the frame.
If you have the early windows, I believe it might be possible to do the swap with out having to remove internal trims (I think) but you would either have to accurately measure the rivet holes, or just drill new holes and not worry about using the original holes.

It can be a pain in the butt to install the gullwings, but as others have said, they are worth the hassle. They really transform the access to the back of your wagon. I have one in my County and would love to install a second one.

Cheers, Murray

Thanks for that info. I have the new one made in Australia so it sounds like there is a little bit of work to do. Now you got me thinking if I should buy the second one now. hmmm, I dont want to have to do this twice.

Cheers.

[rijidij]

Thanks for that info. I have the new one made in Australia so it sounds like there is a little bit of work to do. Now you got me thinking if I should buy the second one now. hmmm, I dont want to have to do this twice.

Cheers.

If purchasing a second gull wing is not an issue, I would recommend doing both at the same time.

I forgot to mention in my last post, you might have to use a flat lever to help ease out the window after cutting the sealant. I use a piece of 50 x 3mm steel with about 20mm at the end bent to about 45*. Also, it's easy to bend the frame of the original window, so take your time.

Cheers, Murray

[Jode]

I forgot to mention in my last post, you might have to use a flat lever to help ease out the window after cutting the sealant. I use a piece of 50 x 3mm steel with about 20mm at the end bent to about 45*. Also, it's easy to bend the frame of the original window, so take your time.

Cheers, Murray
I was ordering some tools from the US, and found that I could squeeze a bit more into the box for the same courier charge, so I ended up buying this set - could be useful for levering; all bits are cast heavy-duty plastic:
73905
It cost around $12 US.

[Iain_B]

Getting the Puma OEM windows out is quite a mission. I used a retractable knife, and quite a few blades. Slowly working the blade around, having the roll cage made it a lot more difficult but it takes a lot of time, and you have to be gentle and take it easy. I used a big screwdriver wrapped with duct tape to protect the paint work and worked it round to open the gap a bit whilst I cut the sealant with the knife.

[n plus one]

I sharpened the edge of a paint scraper - the second one is a lot quicker than the first, once you dial your technique in!

[lurcho]

I'm also considering, well I will install gulwing doors eventually, but was curious whether or not the internal trim is refitted or will it interfere with optional storage box also available from front runner.

Lurcho

[landy]

The front runner storage shelving fits over the trim. It's not flush fitting though.
IMO they are way over priced for what they are (but isn't everything 4x4).. If you are handy with wood it would be very easy to knock a couple of shelves up and cover with marine carpet from Bunnings. $100 for both at the most.

Cheers, Nino.