Part out, repair or replace?

[Trundle]

So I'm in a quandary. I have a '96 130 (Molly), and I've been waiting two weeks to install the new gearbox, transfer box, clutch etc, when I get a phone call from the mechanic after pulling all the floors up and discovering a section at the base of the passenger side A-pillar eaten out.
So he has put it to me, that I have a few options;
A: that instead of installing the boxes, I sell them off and don't lose any more money on installing them, and then proceed to part out the rest of the car.
B: that I look for a clean front cab, and replace that.
C: I repair the affected area...


Option D: is just put the new boxes in and drive her until she completely falls apart, although this isn't really an option due to the safety implications.
I am waiting for a panel beaters assessment as to the cost and viability of the repairs, but thought I'd ask here for any suggestions, ideas, input.
I'm not looking forward to going home and explaining that I'm about to part out Molly or fork out $$$$$...
Feeling a growing pit of sickness right now.

[Phil B]

Trundle,

Personally I would replace the cab and at the same time refurbish chassis, springs etc. You would end up with a newly refurbished vehicle that would last another 10 years.
I'm not sure of your personal situation though so it's hard to tell.

Regards,

Phil.

[Dopey]

G'day mate,
YRM metal solutions in the UK do replacement pillars and panels, they are not that expensive (although freight may be).
http://www.yrmlandrover.com
They also sell them on eBay as well.
Regards, mike.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-L-H-DOOR-PILLAR-AND-BRACKET-/280700176934

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Series-Door-Pillars-Feet-/111278829843

[Trundle]

Trundle,

Personally I would replace the cab and at the same time refurbish chassis, springs etc. You would end up with a newly refurbished vehicle that would last another 10 years.
I'm not sure of your personal situation though so it's hard to tell.

Regards,

Phil.

You don't happen to have a spare cab lying around I'm guessing...

[Phil B]

Trundle,

No I don't but others do.
Not sure about LR breakers in WA but there are a few in NSW.
One of them advertises in AULRO.
Sorry- just not sure if we are allowed to name them here.

Regards,
Phil.

[Vanderz]

post some pics if you can. that way we can see the extent and give better opinions on your next step...

[Trundle]

It's not the greatest quality, but you can see the damage.

[Scouse]

Sorry- just not sure if we are allowed to name them here. Go for it.
It's just trading between members that needs to be via PM.

[steveG]

What is the rest of the vehicle like, and how quickly do you need to have it on the road?

Without having a good look at it, I'd probably be doing a quick repair to get it structural again (doesn't have to look pretty) so I could use it, then assessing my longer term options from there. If you have to do anything major in a hurry most places will tear you a new orifice for the privilege, but if you've got time up your sleeve you've got options.

Steve

[Dopey]

Left hand footwell panel would also come in handy,

LAND ROVER DEFENDER L/H FOOTWELL REPAIR PANEL RHD | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-L-H-FOOTWELL-REPAIR-PANEL-RHD-/370526459350?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item56451915d6)

Before fixing the footwell and the bottom of the A panel, it would do to check the top of the bulkhead around the windscreen mounts and also behind the dash.

You can get new bulkhead top corners if needed, however if it is really badly rusted it may be easier to replace the bulkhead (if you can find one in good condition, otherwise there are companies in the UK that rebuild and galvanise bulkheads).

Regards,
Mike.

[Trundle]

I've just had a quick chat with a panel beater who has advised on a quick self fix, and as suggested by steveG to then take my time and consider options.
It's not currently my everyday drive, but will be soon enough, and I would like to think that I haven't just thrown a nice new gearbox at an ever growing rust hole.
I don't want to get rid of it in any manner, but I couldn't afford to drop another pile of cash on it right now.
Cheers

[chopper]

Not a hard fix for someone with some skill. Should check for further cancer thou. Had the same issue in my County.Fixed it myself but you are a bit to far for a call out. Would be a big job to change the whole cab over and a lot more expensive.

[Mocky]

I have the same problem.
97 TDI ute ( recent purchase ) both side foot wells completely rusted out, if you look at the damage it should only be rust in the non structural panels you can see the structural part in the hole made by the rust, this is mainly due to the Defenders having a double skin where my 85 Isuzu County has a single skin for the foot wells and no rust.
I will be using parts from a stage 1 bulkhead which is single skin, use a tig to weld in the new sections and it will be good as new.

Mocky.

[Trundle]

I have the same problem.
97 TDI ute ( recent purchase ) both side foot wells completely rusted out, if you look at the damage it should only be rust in the non structural panels you can see the structural part in the hole made by the rust, this is mainly due to the Defenders having a double skin where my 85 Isuzu County has a single skin for the foot wells and no rust.
I will be using parts from a stage 1 bulkhead which is single skin, use a tig to weld in the new sections and it will be good as new.

Mocky.

Foot wells not such a problem, I'm happy to cut and replace those in my own time, it was more the A pillars.
TIG, I need some work on as well, happy to buy, and learn, I have a aluminium boat builder I can lean on for assistance. But currently if it's not MIG, I'm up the proverbial creek. And in all honesty if it is MIG, I'm out not great, I'm the backyard league these days.
Any ideas, assistance appreciated.

[Mocky]

Mig will be fine try to use 0.6 mm wire
The corrosion in your A pillar's are are exactly the same as mine, try to look inside of the pillar if the structural parts are not damaged just cut back to undamaged metal and weld in the new piece, paint and your done.

Mocky

[wally.aussie]

mate, thats not as bad as it seems. i have just done both foot wells in my series 3 and then i have had it galvenised so no more problems. if it's not your daily ride then just take your time and it will be ssweet i used a mig with 0.9 wire and had no problems. hope it works out for you cheers wally

[wrinklearthur]

If you leave the firewall inplace while your welding, don't forget the fuel lines as they run along the top of the chassis rails at that point and use a bit of thick steel plate or ceramic bathroom tile as a heat shield between the lines and what you are patching up.
.