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rar110
16th March 2014, 06:42 PM
I took the 110 for a drive today. One reason the wife dislikes the 110 drive experience is the heat in the passenger side. I recently lined the underside of the trans tunnel with layers of high density noise insulation with included an alloy reflector skin. I was hoping this would reduce both noise and the heat in the cabin. Noise reduction was semi successful. Heat reduction reduced a bit. But still bad. A vertical section of the seat box in between the battery box and trans tunnel was the hottest part. (No underside insulation here). The handbrake also radiates warmth, which is ok for the Simpson in June but not qld in summer. The seat box, trans tunnel and floor also has Exmoor/ wright off-road liner. I replaced the gearbox oil about 2 years ago. Is this amount of heat normal? I haven't really thought about it previously. So I can't say if it's got worse. What could be the problem/solution?

I am hoping to fit aircon one day, but will be pointless unless this heat issue is resolved. Thanks.

superquag
16th March 2014, 07:03 PM
Assuming your heat-source is the exhaust pipe, taking a leaf out of the Jap's notebook would work. They extensively use heat shields, semi-circular 'tin' plates that are lightly supported/welded onto the top of sections of pipe. where it passes close under floors etc. Or attached to the vehicle underside.

Simple idea, intercepts the radiant heat, and being light gauge (along with thin supporting legs) it can't store much. Air-flow on both sides of the metal keeps temperature down. This is where your foil/insulation is working against you in that it's storing the heat....to let it through eventually...


Sound deadening material is never a waste in/on Deafeners...:)

My 2 cents worth.

rar110
16th March 2014, 07:17 PM
Assuming your heat-source is the exhaust pipe, taking a leaf out of the Jap's notebook would work. They extensively use heat shields, semi-circular 'tin' plates that are lightly supported/welded onto the top of sections of pipe. where it passes close under floors etc. Or attached to the vehicle underside. Simple idea, intercepts the radiant heat, and being light gauge (along with thin supporting legs) it can't store much. Air-flow on both sides of the metal keeps temperature down. This is where your foil/insulation is working against you in that it's storing the heat....to let it through eventually... Sound deadening material is never a waste in/on Deafeners...:) My 2 cents worth.

Yep I have a heat shield btw floor & muffler/exhaust. The floor is not as warm as the trans tunnel. The heat must be from the gearbox.

Bundalene
16th March 2014, 07:23 PM
Hi, we travel to the NT at least once a year and the heat around the seat box and passengers floor was unbearable, especially later in the year. We successfully insulated the cab and the difference was amazing. Thai was almost 3 years age and many trips, best thing we ever did.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/132615-reducing-heat-noise-levels.html



We did the same to our Puma, you may have to troll through a few pages for more information


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/115591-bundalenes-puma-project-9.html



Erich

DeeJay
16th March 2014, 07:28 PM
In my ( & others) opinion there is limited space for air to pass between the transmission hump & gearbox. Its a basic design shortfall. Putting too much noise insulation material will make it hotter as you are reducing the ventilation, I've known of attempts to channel air there via additional scoops, vents etc. Best to put any noise suppression on the upper surface for a start.:)

rar110
16th March 2014, 07:37 PM
Hi, we travel to the NT at least once a year and the heat around the seat box and passengers floor was unbearable, especially later in the year. We successfully insulated the cab and the difference was amazing. Thai was almost 3 years age and many trips, best thing we ever did. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/132615-reducing-heat-noise-levels.html We did the same to our Puma, you may have to troll through a few pages for more information http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/115591-bundalenes-puma-project-9.html Erich

Thanks Erich, I read that post back in 2011. I did a very similar thing to the trans tunnel. But that is where a lot of heat is still radiating from.

I will do under the seat base and floor plates.

alittlebitconcerned
16th March 2014, 09:36 PM
I installed a decat pipe and wrapped the exhaust. No more hot tunnel.

rar110
16th March 2014, 09:38 PM
I installed a decat pipe and wrapped the exhaust. No more hot tunnel.

What's a decat pipe?

superquag
17th March 2014, 06:45 PM
A short-ish pipe that gets rid of the pussy cat from underneath your car. Too many petrol cars have a cat in the exhaust line... getting rid of it is a Good Thing, especially as said cat converts your hot exhaust gas to hotter exhaust gas... and everything around it gets warmer.:o

The other comment regarding insufficient airflow between gearbox and floor underside is equally valid, and from my own Classic's behaviour I'd guess the same idiots designed Deefers... the engine room gets way too hot and what airflow there is...exits around the bell housing because there is no-where else for it to go.

Some Classic owners install 'shark-gills' on the lower/rear edge of the front mudguards and cut access holes into the engine bar. This, I'm told, makes a significant differance in floor-heat. The same idea might apply to Deafeners.:angel:

rar110
17th March 2014, 09:52 PM
A short-ish pipe that gets rid of the pussy cat from underneath your car. Too many petrol cars have a cat in the exhaust line... getting rid of it is a Good Thing, especially as said cat converts your hot exhaust gas to hotter exhaust gas... and everything around it gets warmer.:o The other comment regarding insufficient airflow between gearbox and floor underside is equally valid, and from my own Classic's behaviour I'd guess the same idiots designed Deefers... the engine room gets way too hot and what airflow there is...exits around the bell housing because there is no-where else for it to go. Some Classic owners install 'shark-gills' on the lower/rear edge of the front mudguards and cut access holes into the engine bar. This, I'm told, makes a significant differance in floor-heat. The same idea might apply to Deafeners.:angel: It's a 25 year old 110 so no cat converter.