Things that go KlonK

[Ozdunc]

Afternoon ladies and gents

I need a bit of help from the brains trust.

When turning right, there's a klonk noise coming from the front left of Bill.
Sounds like something catching and then releasing with a short sharp crack/klonk. The noise has been happening a while, maybe since I've had it, but its been a low priority, compared to everything else.
I've checked the tie rods using a prybar and there's no movement there. Possibly the tierod could be catching on the diff guard?
I'm wondering whether it could be a bush migrating in the spring or chassis, but visually they seem in the right place.

Hubs are sweet, steering is nice and tight, it handles well.

I suppose it could also be the bolt connecting the bulkhead to the chassis.

Anyone got any ideas???

Also I've got a wire coming out of my fusebox, travelling across the bulkhead alongside the speedo, then heading down and entering the chassis just behind the gearbox cross member on the passenger side. I can then feel it through the hole just in front of the forward spring mount for the rear spring, but it doesn't seem to exit anywhere.
I loathed to pull it just incase its connect to something vital I'm unaware of.
Any one got any tricks for tracking an cable through a chassis?

Cheers

[JDNSW]

Most likely source of the clonk is loose U-bolts. But look also for the steering arms loose on the swivel housing, loose swivel bushes, worn spring bushes (or even just loose shackle bolts), broken spring leaves.

U-bolts need to be tight. You can tell if there is movement, as the dirt between the spring perch and the top leaf will be broken. If it has been going on for some time, it may be necessary to replace the centrebolt. I have not found any satisfactory way of keeping them tight except to double nut them, or to use tab washers as was used on Series 1 and 2 and at least early 2a. They should be checked every service anyway.

John

[ezyrama]

Wouldn't be the king pin would it? Smeg did a similar thing, changed it and all good.
Cheers Ian

[Ozdunc]

Thanks guys.

John your hint about the U bolts was very timely. It hasn't solved the clonk (although it doesn't seem to be happening so often), but my U bolts were definitely under torqued. I've tightened them up to specs - 58 lbs/ft is flipping tight I thought I was going to strip the threads

Following Ian's suggestion, I jacked up the front axle - I didn't think it was the king pins as I'd only rebuilt the swivels about a year ago, but always worth checking.
I decided to start cycling the suspension, lifting one side then the other with the jacks and I think I've found the cause - as the spring is twisting due to the other side being lifted one of the leaves is catching against the front mounting point, getting stuck then releasing with the klonk.
Fix will be to grind a tiny amount of the side of the 3rd leaf and the front mounting point, so it should be good.

THe mystery electrical wire was just lying in the chassis connected to nothing, but still live, and live even without the key in the ignition. Which came as a big sparking surprise as I pulled the wire out the chassis holes:D

Thats the second live disconnect wire I've found in this truck. Which is a tad worrying, but I'm pretty sure now I can id every remaining circuit.

[Johnno1969]

It looks like you've found it. I was just about to post that I had a similar "klonk" in my IIA front springs due to that happening...

[B.S.F.]

Thanks guys.

John your hint about the U bolts was very timely. It hasn't solved the clonk (although it doesn't seem to be happening so often), but my U bolts were definitely under torqued. I've tightened them up to specs - 58 lbs/ft is flipping tight I thought I was going to strip the thread

Is 58 lbs/ft for BSF or UNF thread? .W.

[Ozdunc]

Is 58 lbs/ft for BSF or UNF thread? .W.

Dunno. I got it off the Series 2 club service torque specs.

[UncleHo]

From memory my "U" bolts are torqued up to 50ft/lbs on my 2a ex military but it is a while since I have done them, in the workshop book it states that they have to be checked every 6,000 miles

When I rebuilt my spring packs I used an angle grinder and put a fine 1/16th inch (about 2mm) chamfer on the top side of each leaf,and a similar size radius on the corners this makes the leaves slide better and not step the undersides on the upper leaf.

cheers

[Ozdunc]

Cheers Uncle Ho, I have a couple of leaves to rebuild my front springs. Now I have access to a Mapp Gas burner, I can undo the clamps. I'll definitely be chamfering.

All I need is the time...