View Full Version : MSA Throwout
123rover50
27th March 2014, 07:04 AM
With this MSA box, should the clutch throwout bearing be in contact with the fingers and spinning all the time?
Keith
Ancient Mariner
27th March 2014, 10:59 AM
With this MSA box, should the clutch throwout bearing be in contact with the fingers and spinning all the time?
Keith
Only if you want to wear it out With my mxa I made an adjustable pushrod and run about a 1/16" of clearance at the fork Probably the original truck rod is similar :eek:
AM
123rover50
27th March 2014, 11:24 AM
Yes, mine is adjustable too.
I am having a senior moment and cant remember if I had clearance when I installed it or not. I have freeplay at the pedal but was under the car the other day when it was idleing and noticed it was hard up with no movement and the lever was wobbling as it idled.
I will slacken it off a bit and see if I still have a clutch.
Thanks
Dougal
27th March 2014, 01:18 PM
Mine is in full contact and has been for ~10 years.
I decided to make it self-adjusting by removing the return spring after having spring issues. Yes there is wear on the fingers, but that pressure plate has done around 500,000km.
Ancient Mariner
27th March 2014, 02:01 PM
Bloody younger generation! probably pull the handbrake on over the ratchet
to :o:D
Dougal
27th March 2014, 02:17 PM
Bloody younger generation! probably pull the handbrake on over the ratchet
to :o:D
No need, my wife does that. :angel:
123rover50
27th March 2014, 04:49 PM
Checked it. It seems the spring is not strong enough to push the slave all the way back.
If I push it right back by hand I get nearly 1/4 inch slack in the push rod.
Other slaves dont have a return spring so are their bearings spinning all the time too? Like our disco.
Maybe its not a big issue.
Dougal
27th March 2014, 06:00 PM
My nissan work car also uses no return spring on the clutch slave.
workingonit
9th August 2014, 10:56 PM
Thanks for the photo AM.
I'm almost at the point of dropping the 4bd1t/msa/adaptor/LT230 combo into the RRC chassis to work out design of engine mounts.
Every so often the threads throw up something I need to be aware of or should consider, like the clutch adjustment or that I have no edic motor. Not only that, I have no slave cylinder, so it is good to see how it all goes together.
Vern
10th August 2014, 08:46 AM
When you go to drop it all in place, make sure you have enough room for the Turbo inlet elbow, I would have liked to go forward another 20mm even with the cobra style elbow.
Ancient Mariner
10th August 2014, 11:02 AM
Dougal mentioned in a post the other day bout a fella on btswaps drilling holes in engine mounts to reduce vibration .Might be a good idear to look into it while doing engine mounts also chuck the EDIC:o
AM
workingonit
10th August 2014, 11:48 AM
I guess drilling the rubber in the engine mounts is similar in concept to the Nissan drilled bushes put in the Superior Engineering radius arms - much more flex - but to the detriment of longevity?
If you've chucked the edic what system have you replaced it with - cable?
I really should start a thread for all the issues relevant to my install.
Ancient Mariner
10th August 2014, 12:25 PM
Type Start run solenoid in the search function bot of page info and pics
AM
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