Roof Rack mounted driving lights

[ProjectDirector]

I have been searching this topic in this forum and found some interesting information but nothing conclusive to my questions.
A lot of it had to do with compliance which I am not interested.
I am buying a full length roof rack soon and I thought I install 2 wide beam and 2 spot.
I currently have a couple of old hella from my Hilux attached to the nudge bar which are useless, my high beams are brighter.

1. Are there any worthwhile benefits and
2. The best way to wire it up

Any examples will be great for visual.
.75036

Cheers

[Tombie]

Up top... Lightbar.... Roof lights are for flood lighting, a 40+ inch LED bar will do the biz..

Easy to wire, run wiring up snorkel if you dont want to drill the roof...

Can elaborate further if you like...

[ProjectDirector]

Up top... Lightbar.... Roof lights are for flood lighting, a 40+ inch LED bar will do the biz..

Easy to wire, run wiring up snorkel if you dont want to drill the roof...

Can elaborate further if you like...


A bit more info on wiring will be good, the existing lights are wired by an electrician. Also the best place to bring wires out from air intake given you suggest running via snorkel.

[KarlB]

I have two Lightforce 140 Lance HIDs mounted in the same place you have your Hellas. No reflection off the bonnet as you can get with rack-mounted lights and protected from damage from over-hanging branches.

Also, worth changing the top mounts on your A-Bar (they are plastic) to stainless steel ones from Mantec (see Mantec | Quality Land Rover Accessories (http://www.mantec.co.uk/productdetail.cfm'theProductID=21709FCC-15C5-F4C0-9974F237D3F73697)). They are much stronger. This is where I have mounted my UHF aerial.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[ProjectDirector]

I have two Lightforce 140 Lance HIDs mounted in the same place you have your Hellas. No reflection off the bonnet as you can get with rack-mounted lights and protected from damage from over-hanging branches.

Also, worth changing the top mounts on your A-Bar (they are plastic) to stainless steel ones from Mantec (see Mantec | Quality Land Rover Accessories (http://www.mantec.co.uk/productdetail.cfm'theProductID=21709FCC-15C5-F4C0-9974F237D3F73697)). They are much stronger. This is where I have mounted my UHF aerial.

Cheers
KarlB
:)


I have some s/s plate and was thinking of making my own brackets but after looking at the originals it can be a bit fiddly to make.
How much are these brackets.

[POD]

I had a pair of bull lights mounted on the roof rack of my old Rangie. I ran the wires up the snorkel (this was actually the main reason that prompted me to make a snorkel for that vehicle). One 3/4" hole drilled into the snorkel tubing under the bonnet, wires entering there with a grommet, another similar hole near the top of the snorkel, wires exiting there with another grommet. Had 2 blank grommets to seal the snorkel when the roofrack & lights were not required.
I found the roof lights a big advantage on outback roads where there is undergrowth at the sides, your eyes may be above the undergrowth but if the lights are below it, you can't see anything at the sides of the road until it jumps (literally) out in front of you. With a good spread of light coming from high up, you can see things coming. Also lights above eye level eliminate the pools of shadow on the road caused by undulations.
Fitting the bull lights to the roof of the 130 is one of the jobs on my list before heading north in a few weeks. I think I'll use an Anderson plug at the top of the snorkel this time.

[POD]

Another thing; best to have a switch so you can switch them off with your other driving lights still on, there is such a thing as too much light, such as when approaching those big reflective freeway signs.

[ProjectDirector]

Another thing; best to have a switch so you can switch them off with your other driving lights still on, there is such a thing as too much light, such as when approaching those big reflective freeway signs.


Are you saying to wire them independently from Hi beams which is what I was thinking. Currently the driving lights on A-bar have a separate switch but can only light up if hi beams are on which is the "legal" way.

[Tombie]

Are you saying to wire them independently from Hi beams which is what I was thinking. Currently the driving lights on A-bar have a separate switch but can only light up if hi beams are on which is the "legal" way.


And the roof lights must be wired the same.

What the poster above is saying is wire a desperate switch and circuit.

[Dervish]

I ran the wires for rack lights externally up the snorkel in ~10 - 12mm UV stabilised corrugated conduit - the black stuff usually used for automotive work. It runs out from the back of the bonnet and is cable tied to the snorkel and first roof rack support leg.

Not as neat as going internally I suppose, but it adds to the character.

[ProjectDirector]

I ran the wires for rack lights externally up the snorkel in ~10 - 12mm UV stabilised corrugated conduit - the black stuff usually used for automotive work. It runs out from the back of the bonnet and is cable tied to the snorkel and first roof rack support leg.

Not as neat as going internally I suppose, but it adds to the character.


I found this wiring diagram on some other forums which may be of interest to others which is the right way I suppose.

[mark2]

Have been thinking about mounting an LED light bar on the front of my roof rack (actually relocating the one from the top of the bulll bar which I am told is illegal).

Is the glare on the white bonnet going to be an issue? This is all that is holding me back at the moment.

[technophile]

My set-up with with the Light bar on the roof rack, i used the mounting system on the rack and slid two bolts in to mount the light bar, then ran the wires down the snorkel using adhesive cable management thingies. About to get 4x 9" 75w HID and mount them on the fron bar of the rack using antenna brackets.

[Benz]

when I first fitted my light bar to my roof rack (very similar to technophile's setup) the glare on the bonnet was terrible! It would light up the whole cab and the reflections on the side windows made them impossible to see out of them.

I then fitted the light bar on top of the roof rack but set back a bit with a bit of alli screwed down on the rack (filling in the gaps between the rack) to shade the bonnet.

This works much better but the light bar is some what exposed to damage.
looking at technophile's set up it looks like he had a little more room to set his bar back a little under his rack. I did not have this room which was a bit of a bummer. it was nice and protected in there.

I would suggest doing a test before committing to bolting them on with some clamps or something. you want as little light shining on the bonnet as possible.

[technophile]

when I first fitted my light bar to my roof rack (very similar to technophile's setup) the glare on the bonnet was terrible! It would light up the whole cab and the reflections on the side windows made them impossible to see out of them.

I then fitted the light bar on top of the roof rack but set back a bit with a bit of alli screwed down on the rack (filling in the gaps between the rack) to shade the bonnet.

This works much better but the light bar is some what exposed to damage.
looking at technophile's set up it looks like he had a little more room to set his bar back a little under his rack. I did not have this room which was a bit of a bummer. it was nice and protected in there.

I would suggest doing a test before committing to bolting them on with some clamps or something. you want as little light shining on the bonnet as possible.

Yeah, i mounted mine as far back as possible whilst still allowing some room for flex. I get no glare what so ever, other than from my aerial and the glare i get when i look in the rear vision mirror on the back window

[POD]

Are you saying to wire them independently from Hi beams which is what I was thinking. Currently the driving lights on A-bar have a separate switch but can only light up if hi beams are on which is the "legal" way.

Yes you definitely need to have the switching wire to the relay sourced from the high-beam circuit, i.e. pick up switching power from the high-beam circuit, through a switch, to the switching side of the relay. This means that selecting low beam will switch off the driving lights, and they can either be selected on or off when high beam is on.
I'm not a fan of using the small relays, of the type shown in the diagram, for driving lights. The contacts tend to burn with the high current draw and after a while they can fuse together so that the lights don't want to switch off. I've had this problem with several of these relays over the years, as well as with a couple of dual-circuit relays supposedly made for the purpose. I ran my bull lights for several years through a starter solenoid; the switching side still has very low current draw, but the power circuit will last virtually forever with a few 100w lights. The big posts on them also double as a bus bar from which to source power to other accessories.
I found that my UHF antenna was a much worse source of reflected glare than the bonnet, being right up at eye level.

[Shoogs]

Mine work quite well, but only for slow work as they are spread beams, no bonnet glare as it has the checker plate, interestingly after pitting here in WA the only concern was having 8 lights with high beam, take one set off is all they said...

Wiring is up through the A pillar and through the roof with a waterproof grommet, works for me, neat and tidy, independent of the high beam switch.

[ProjectDirector]

Yes you definitely need to have the switching wire to the relay sourced from the high-beam circuit, i.e. pick up switching power from the high-beam circuit, through a switch, to the switching side of the relay. This means that selecting low beam will switch off the driving lights, and they can either be selected on or off when high beam is on.

I'm not a fan of using the small relays, of the type shown in the diagram, for driving lights. The contacts tend to burn with the high current draw and after a while they can fuse together so that the lights don't want to switch off. I've had this problem with several of these relays over the years, as well as with a couple of dual-circuit relays supposedly made for the purpose. I ran my bull lights for several years through a starter solenoid; the switching side still has very low current draw, but the power circuit will last virtually forever with a few 100w lights. The big posts on them also double as a bus bar from which to source power to other accessories.

I found that my UHF antenna was a much worse source of reflected glare than the bonnet, being right up at eye level.


Any chance you can sketch your wiring diagram if practical, it makes easier for me at least.

[KarlB]

I have some s/s plate and was thinking of making my own brackets but after looking at the originals it can be a bit fiddly to make.
How much are these brackets.

Can't recall exact price but I think about AU$35 delivered. Drop Mantec an email. They were quite helpful.

KarlB
:)

[ProjectDirector]

Can recall exact price but I think about AU$35 delivered. Drop Mantec an email. They were quite helpful.

KarlB
:)


Thanks I will

[POD]

Any chance you can sketch your wiring diagram if practical, it makes easier for me at least.

Now you're setting me a challenge! I can sketch the circuit no worries, may take me a while to figure out how to post it though. Will try and get time to do it for you this evening.

[ProjectDirector]

Now you're setting me a challenge! I can sketch the circuit no worries, may take me a while to figure out how to post it though. Will try and get time to do it for you this evening.
The easiest way is maybe sketch it by hand and take a photo with phone and post. Thanks for taking time to do that.

[Chops]

Now you're setting me a challenge! I can sketch the circuit no worries, may take me a while to figure out how to post it though. Will try and get time to do it for you this evening.


The easiest way is maybe sketch it by hand and take a photo with phone and post. Thanks for taking time to do that.

Orrrr, we could have a quick little "get-together", and discuss with "show and tell". :D

[POD]

If only one thing can be learned from this diagram, it is that I am not a draughtsman.
The circuit is very simple. There is very little current on the switching side of the relay (even the big starter solenoid I used drew 600 milliamps on the switching side) so small wiring is fine. The dash switch can be placed in either side of the switching circuit, i.e. the high-beam power can be fed direct to the relay, and the earth wire fed to the switch then to earth. Whatever is the most convenient for the physical location of the relay in relation to where you are tapping into the high-beam circuit.
Heavy-guage wire should be used on the power circuit, i.e. from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the lamps. Halogen lamps and sealed-beam lamps are very sensitive to voltage drop, heavy wire makes quite a difference to light output. Don't ask me about LED and HID, strong magic there.
Hope this is of some use despite the rough sketch.

[ProjectDirector]

Orrrr, we could have a quick little "get-together", and discuss with "show and tell". :D


Given you are in Melbourne why not, happy to do that. Just work out a good time

[ProjectDirector]

If only one thing can be learned from this diagram, it is that I am not a draughtsman.

The circuit is very simple. There is very little current on the switching side of the relay (even the big starter solenoid I used drew 600 milliamps on the switching side) so small wiring is fine. The dash switch can be placed in either side of the switching circuit, i.e. the high-beam power can be fed direct to the relay, and the earth wire fed to the switch then to earth. Whatever is the most convenient for the physical location of the relay in relation to where you are tapping into the high-beam circuit.

Heavy-guage wire should be used on the power circuit, i.e. from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the lamps. Halogen lamps and sealed-beam lamps are very sensitive to voltage drop, heavy wire makes quite a difference to light output. Don't ask me about LED and HID, strong magic there.

Hope this is of some use despite the rough sketch.


This is perfect thank you. Nothing like a good mud map.
I won't be using halogen, it will be HID or LED so less current than halogen.