damn starter motor

[rangie99]

hi everyone last time i spoke i had a prob with my p38 g/box....$5200 later no more problem which i thought was painful but i just don't believe how hard it is to change the starter and no wonder my auto eleco mate would not give me a price to do the job the actual starter was $200 and i thought how hard can it be to get under the car and undo two bolts.oh how wrong i was,6 hours saturday and only the bottom bolt came out easy enough but the top bolt finally came out after four hours on the sunday....what a nightmare and then two hours to get the sucker in and what a difference a new starter makes it was worth it for sure after all the jobs i have tackled on my rangie this is by far the hardest and didn't my wife and neighbors like the colourful language at times,cheers

[poleonpom]

Didn't realize they were so hard to change. No wonder you wanted to do it after forking out on the 'box

[Pete38]

That top bolt should be easy once you do it once and realise it's all about getting the socket extension length right... But I removed more than I should have to get that top bolt out. And also swore many times myself. But I think if I did it again I'll definitely be going the socket and medium/long extension (5 inches I think).

[Keithy P38]

Yeah a few extensions and you're laughing! 20min job.

Go through the engine mount bracket right up to the front of the motor with your extensions.

[zzsteve]

First time I needed 1/2' drive, 8mm hex and extension to crack the upper bolt. Next time it is easier with 3/8' drive set. Remove RH road wheel and arch to reveal how bad the access really is but it did help. Toyed with removing the heatshield, but it is just as big a job to me.

Steve

[PeterH]

I fluked it in first go, just happened to have the correct length extension, cracked the bottom bolt first with a breaker bar, then slid my hand in between the inner guard, (which flexes) and the chassis, just enough to help guide the hex key in place to the top bolt. From under the car, the upper bolt is directly above the gap between the solenoid and the starter motor body...(makes sense when you are under there looking at it).
I had to unplug the electrics before removing the motor, but it came out much easier than expected.
I have read others experiences with trying to remove the starter, it can be such a frustrating job.

[zzsteve]

...then slid my hand in between the inner guard, (which flexes) and the chassis, just enough to help guide the hex key in place to the top bolt.
are you double, or triple jointed?
Steve:o

[p38arover]

Just like the Classic, not a problem with the right extension.

[Pete38]

Yeh its the same starter as the classic (well at least the same as the 3.9l classic of my dads) for those who stumble across this thread. But I found my dads '94 classic to be easier than my '00 p38. Maybe it was just a bad day for the P38 but I thought I remembered the classic as being easier to access or maybe it was easier to see.

[p38arover]

Did the later P38A have noise suppression shielding under the engine bay which reduced access? I seem to recall something about that in order to reduce drive by noise levels - as was the reason for dual exhausts on later cars.

[Scouse]

I seem to recall something about that in order to reduce drive by noise levels - as was the reason for dual exhausts on later cars.No P38s were sold here with a dual exhaust so it may be a European reg.

[p38arover]

Could be, Scott.

I remember Wayne writing this:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/140470-twin-exhaust-system-p38.html#post1590235

[benji]

I had a terrible time with the top bolt on my 93. The thread was corroded and I'd rounded the bolt. Dad got it undone by hammering a larger imperial allen keyin there, and pouring boiling water down some pipe onto the nut for at least half an hour. Man was I relieved! !!

When I had everything apart in the p38 I took both state bolts out and put antisieze on them.

[TheTree]

Hi

A good selection of wobble bars helps as well

Steve

[redandy3575]

Did you guys read my transmission removal thread i had the same issue.

I tell ya, if i find the guy that invented loctite, i will fair and squarly thump him one. Its the worst invention ever, trying undo a bolt is an absolute nightmare, and there's no need for it, you do not need to glue bolts. If anything, WD40 is the go.

[mtb_gary]

They use the blue Loctite on the Panhard rod bolts. Even when you "crack" the seal they are still near on impossible to remove. The nut and bolt are even warm from the friction when removed! I much prefer Nylok nuts. Redandy3575, when you've finished with Mr Loctite, pass him over I'll take over round 2 ;).

Gary