1996 P38 Random suspension movement

[Nomad9]

Hi There,
Recently got a '96 P38, came with the usual suspension challenges. Got it home following morning on the bump stops, soapy water found a couple of solenoids leaking a bit fixed them..........sweet. Suspension now seems to be holding its own and you can no longer use the casing of the compressor as a bar-b-q plate.

My issue is that the suspension seems to settle out differently on occasion. Last night sat perfectly all night drove off this morning virtually no movement, no compressor activation. Get to work this morning and I would guess settles out pretty close to access height. Stayed there all day, 12 hours later drive off and it takes maybe five minutes to reach normal ride height. get home compressor warm but not hot.

Tonight, back is overly high, front is normal, hasn't moved since I got home, I'll see what it looks like tomorrow morning.

Any ideas so far? Everything seems to happen together, no one corner is lower than the others. The car does not appear to lean to port or starboard, anomalies appear to be back to front or all four the same either high, normal or low. :confused:

[Keithy P38]

Could be a bung height sensor. When they go they tend to do all kinds of weird things to your ride height!

[superquag]

Could be worse... at least they're still available (from the UK)

[33chinacars]

Buy yourself an EAS Kicker from BlackBox Solution. Reads & clears EAS faults. Great bit of kit.

Blackbox Solutions Ltd - Designers and manufacturers of the best vehicle diagnostic tools. (http://blackbox-solutions.com/)

Gary

[mtb_gary]

Nomad9.

Another bit of hardware & software you may want to look at is from rsw solutions (rswsolutions.com) EAS unlock suite. If you are changing or calibrating hour height sensors you are going to need it.
If you are changing height sensors, beware as there are 2 different types. Mine for instance have a lead around 50cm long with a plug on the end of the lead that connects up at the top of the wheel arch. The other variety has the plug directly into the sensor. How do I know? I've still got the ones that don't fit sitting in the garage :o.

Gary

[Nomad9]

Hi Gary,
I have got an MSV Extreme I'm just waiting for Ronnie to get back to me with the price and software. I agree great peice of kit, thanks for the reply. Just wondering if it was something easy I coud fix before I got the software.

[davidsonsm]

I was led to believe that the NRV's were the prime potential souce of your woes? Check them out. Ensure the cones are nice and round. They have a tendency to wear on one side (gravity hey), which means they don't centre on the O ring very well - which can cause the front to drop uniformily (one of the symptoms).

If the cones aren't nice and round - what I did was pick the three best from the two valve blocks I had at the time (now up to two spares plus duty!).

Beginning to think buying a new one would be a worthwhile investiment, given I'm planning to keep the car a while longer.

[Hoges]

Hi Gary,
I have got an MSV Extreme I'm just waiting for Ronnie to get back to me with the price and software. I agree great peice of kit, thanks for the reply. Just wondering if it was something easy I coud fix before I got the software.

The Storey Wilson software (EAS Suite) is free, works on MS XP and the website has detailed instructions for making your own cable. Only need a USB-serial converter plus OBDII plug (Jaycar). You can buy a cheap second-hand laptop and load it with all your P38 stuff... well worth it!
Also get yourself a copy of RAVE and load it on your laptop (see "Dave's Interesting Things" on this forum for details)

[mtb_gary]

The Storey Wilson software (EAS Suite) is free, works on MS XP and the website has detailed instructions for making your own cable. Only need a USB-serial converter plus OBDII plug (Jaycar). You can buy a cheap second-hand laptop and load it with all your P38 stuff... well worth it!
Also get yourself a copy of RAVE and load it on your laptop (see "Dave's Interesting Things" on this forum for details)

Hoges

The free version is no longer available from rsw solutions. He now sells another chargable version complete with USB cable which is claimed to be a big improvement on the previous free version (that I still use).

Gary

[Nomad9]

Hi David,
Great reply, helps me possibly identify the problem. When I repaired the solenoid valves I wouldn't describe the cones as "nice and round", however they weren't that bad.
A pattern is starting to develop now, his morning, back still high, front OK. Set off levelled of straight away, compressor on for a minimal amount of time. Got to work parked up and as I left suspension went down to just above access, stayed there all day and then took about 2.5 klms to come up to normal ride height.

Tonight come home parked up and the back is now marginally higher than normal, front normal. the saga continues.......

[FANTOM P38]

Hi Marty
Sean beat me to it I was also going to steer you towards NRV's as I'm sure they split movements through valve block to front & rear so thats where I'd be starting. Good Luck can be frustrating but once sorted nothing beats the air system.

[Nomad9]

Hi Phantom,
Agree about the ride on air, when I was looking to buy so many people put down the conversion to springs as a selling point like LPG, I steer well clear. My choice for those out there who think LPG is a good idea.

I have a new, well at least new to me valve block coming from the UK for about $100 so I'm going to refurb that and put it in complete, ordered an o-ring kit from somewhere else and I have now resurrected my old compressor with some new seals from my last ownership of a P38. It all just comes flooding back..........

[davidsonsm]

Just rechecked/rebuilt my spare valve block tonight. I'm batching so could lay it all out on the kitchen bench. The misses would have had a fit. My current valve block is nearly right, but just not right. The front end droops after a couple of days.

Wooden tooth picks I found to be handy for prizing the O rings out. And for cleaning along with heaps of cotton buds.

I also flatted the air spring valves using 3000 grade wet and dry - wet with water and metal polish. Used a pedestal drill.

I have high hopes for this latest incarnation.

[DT-P38]

Just rechecked/rebuilt my spare valve block tonight. I'm batching so could lay it all out on the kitchen bench. The misses would have had a fit. My current valve block is nearly right, but just not right. The front end droops after a couple of days. Wooden tooth picks I found to be handy for prizing the O rings out. And for cleaning along with heaps of cotton buds. I also flatted the air spring valves using 3000 grade wet and dry - wet with water and metal polish. Used a pedestal drill. I have high hopes for this latest incarnation..

If you become 'expert' at it you can run our next Melbourne EAS rebuild day!

I believe FANTOM is again threatening to host something soon. :-)

[davidsonsm]

Is that geekier/sadder than train spotting or some such activity involving anoraks! If so. Count me in. I've done a few now.

[FANTOM P38]

No worries Sean, Dave & I have had plenty of practice too with the P38 Valve Block with lots of assistance from Paul & his very helpfull instructions.
Looks like I better pull my finger out & get this catchup organised before it gets too cold. ( nothing a few scotches would'nt fix anyway I suppose!)

[Nomad9]

Hi People,
So after living with the P38 for a week it has now become clearly evident that when I drive into a parking spot forwards the suspension drops to close to access. However when I reverse into a parking spot the rear suspension goes into a slightly higher than normal position and the front stays at normal.

When I drive off the suspension settles out straight away, no problem. When I drive out of a spot I drove into the suspension takes nearly 2.5 klms to get to a single light position, always rising into position obviously.

I have to check the air connections around the main air reservoir.

This has happened consistently now for over a week. Any ideas out there? I'm not sure if having the suspension locked in the setting between normal and access has anything to do with this. That's just my preference.

Thanks for any responses up front.

[davidsonsm]

I'd highly recommend installing a pressure gauge on the tank line to ensure you're getting 145psi from the compressor. A light on the dash to know when the compressor is working also helps. In an A1 condition EAS set up, the compressor only works through height changes. Leaks make it overwork.

But sounds to me like you need to examine the internal non-return valves inside the valve block. They'd be my starting point. Might as well refresh the valve block whilst you're at it. If doing so. Be maticulously clean and methodical. That's not in my nature and I paid the price of rebuilding mine several times.

I can send you the rebuild instructions compliments of paul at hard range if you need.

[Nomad9]

Hi There,
Any assistance greatly received. I have ordered an o-ring kit I am just waiting for it to arrive. Once I have it I'll give the valve block a bit of a birthday. On the two solenoids that were leaking I found the very skinny O-ring in the valve under the stainless steel sleeve to be brittle and in one case actually broken. Fixing that has made things a lot better, I still have this strange anomaly with parking forwards and backwards.
No matter when the kit arrives I'll be into it................. Instructions would be great, thank you

[davidsonsm]

I procured dozens of spare skinny (10mm x 1mm) O rings. As I continually pinched them when re seating the solenoids.

As others have suggested, it is highly recommended to flatten the air bag solenoid valve faces (all valves with rubber insert) before reassembling. I've just done this and the car is now rock solid - nirvana.

[PaulP38a]

My EAS Valve Block rebuild instructions are readily available at EAS Valve Block Rebuild Guide | PaulP38A.com (http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/eas-valve-block-renew/)

I also have some oring kits left and plenty of those skinny 1.0mm o-rings if anyone needs them.

Cheers, Paul.