Ex-Military 109 GS (202)

[Wiltshire Lad]

Hello Everyone,

I have just become the owner of a 1967 109 ex millitary GS with a 202. My mate Gromit (also on the forum) found it and has it stored at his place until I can get my hands on a tandem to get it from Melbourne to home (near Wangaratta).

I am a long time Landy fan who also has a HJ Kingswood as my daily transport so I am quite comfortable with the old Red technology.

Gromit has promised to post a few photos once I get the thread started.

I look forward to getting it roadworthy and do a bit of offroading locally around the bush tracks near home and also for firewood collection.

Being my first Landy what should I do to it? I don't want to spend a fortune on it I just want it to be safe for the children.

Steve

[Carzee]

Hey, met Gromit at Corowa swap last month.
I have a 67 GS 'under restoration'.

Check your twin tanks for leaks. Actually, check everything for leaks :)

How old are the kids? I'm asking because if they are still in the safety seats age group you can safely belt them (the special seats, not the kids) behind the firewall. The kids willbe looking at traffic behind you, but they don't care. Also they are easily in reach from the front seats for when its time to insert the dummy for the nth time etc.

[Wiltshire Lad]

Hi Carzee,

Yes that was me with Gromit at Corowa. The Landie has a truck cab which is good. I could belt them in on the outside of the cab. I'm sure they would love it.

I can't wait to get it home and have a blast around the paddock.

[gromit]

I've posted pictures in another thread but here it is.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/978.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN2979_zpscc60590b.jpg.html)



I'm in Country VIC on business at the moment, I'll post some more when I'm back home later in the week.

It's a 109 2a GS with a Holden 202 but has been modified a bit over the years. Most of the military bits are missing, no hood bows, it's had a dual battery system installed in the past.
Two highback seats have been fitted, the bullbar is welded to the chassis and the front crossmember is rotten, the top was cut off for the radiator to fit and wasn't boxed in or a drainage hole drilled !!

It has a manual start button on the bulkhead but key ignition which could have been added when the Holden donk was fitted. Wiper motor is the later type (cable operation) but it mounts right in front of one of the Army legend plates so might be a later fitment.
Chassis number is 25320483 0
Census No 6028
Contract No C104345
Date 6-67

Purchased initially for the overdrive, Smith's heater, brake booster and a few other bits I didn't really need the rest of the vehicle.
Steve is a Holden fan so the 202 was of interest and as he needed a vehicle for his property it made sense to go halvies on the purchase ($300)

I thought I'd try and get the transmission brake working and wished I'd left it for Steve. The output shaft has a lot of play there is oil everywhere so I'm hoping it's just the nut holding the output flange has come undone........

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-iia/195068-transmission-brake-transfer-box-problems.html


Once the transmission brake is fixed there will be a fair bit of work to be done.

The shopping list at the moment is :-
A pair of tailgate chains.
Bonnet stay
Front crossmember (if anyone is cutting a chassis up).
Set of original seats.
Steering wheel (a Ford one is fitted).

I'm sure there'll be more once Steve starts to work on it.

Colin

[Carzee]

snips

Chassis number is 25320483 0
Census No 6028
Contract No C104345
Date 6-67
Colin

Hi Colin,
on the registry list Full ARN 114 List - REMLR (http://www.remlr.com/ARN/ARN-114.php)
ch 25320483C -- lines up as being ARN 114-468, auctioned off in Nov 79.

[gromit]

Here are a few more pictures.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/887.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCF2152_zps49dedb0b.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/888.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCF2143_zps0eed1bef.jpg.html)

Rotten front Crossmember

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/889.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCF2140_zps39b433d4.jpg.html)

Nice instrument panel, revcounter & oil pressure gauge work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/890.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCF2154_zps037a4bad.jpg.html)

Removed the thermostat housing and no thermostat fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/891.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN2963_zps3a65f284.jpg.html)

5 minute gasket made for thermostat housing.
4 minutes to find gasket paper & scissors, 1 minute to make gasket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/892.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN2964_zps7266641c.jpg.html)


I like the bit of flexible pipe connecting the reservoir to the master cylinder !

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/893.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCF2161_zps5c249e1e.jpg.html)


The water pump is seized solid. I stopped at Steve's house while on a trip in Country VIC yesterday and he gave me a new water pump for a Holden Red motor to fit.
That reminds me, I must put together a list of what I've spent so far, just not sure what labour rate to charge him........


Colin

[gromit]

I had a think about the last photo and the master cylinder has been changed from a CB to a CV. It looks like 1/4" pipe from the reservoir and 3/16" into the master cylinder hence the piece of flexible pipe.
There is no pressure (gravity feed) so should be OK or it needs an adaptor one end or the other. Maybe an adaptor that's used for fitting later wheel cylinders to an 80" could be used in the master cylinder and then it would be 1/4" both ends.


Colin

[marting]

Hi Colin

In your third photo (the one showing the crossmember) I see what looks like a steering damper mounted to the underside of the crossmember. When you get time could you please put up a photo of how/where the other end of the damper mounts.

I also have a 109' GS and was wondering what the bracket under the crossmember was for.

Thanks, Martin

[gromit]

Hi Colin

In your third photo (the one showing the crossmember) I see what looks like a steering damper mounted to the underside of the crossmember. When you get time could you please put up a photo of how/where the other end of the damper mounts.

I also have a 109' GS and was wondering what the bracket under the crossmember was for.

Thanks, Martin

Martin,
Someone on REMLR suggested there were various mountings for the steering damper. This one was used when a winch was originally fitted.
I'll try and post a photo later today.


Colin

[Lionelgee]

G'day Gromit,

The use of gravity fed brake fluid that runs from the remote reservoir via a length of rubber hose that connects to a steel pipe was the original set up in some Series IIIs.

The original remote brake fluid reservoir (Part Number 90577636) for the 2.25 litre diesel in a Series III has a barbed fitting as the exit point for the brake fluid. It is fitted with a length of rubber-type hose (565668) then in the long wheel base version it joins on to a length of steel brake line (90569128). As you say it is gravity fed anyway and it is for a non-boosted system. The part 565668 is described as "connector tube brake pipe to reservoir". The part 90569128 is described as "brake master cylinder 1 CV pipe".

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Managed to do some work on Steve's 109 today.

The transmission brake was in a bit of a mess.
After chiseling off bolts, dropping the propshaft and removing the transmission brake I degreased the lot.
The drive flange nut was split pinned but loose ? I think the transfer box bearings may be breaking up.
Anyway, the brake operating mechanism was in a bit of a mess. It was worn, the clip groove badly damaged, flats on the rollers. Managed to get it back together as a temporary fix.
One of the brake shoe springs was broken so I had to take one from stock.

Re-assembled after fitting a new seal. Still some play in the output shaft but the brake went back together and now works.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/772.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN2982_zpsb7e84499.jpg.html)

Manged to fit the water pump Steve supplied. Radiator sits a bit high and stops the bonnet closing properly, will see if I can do anything about this.

Here is the back of the front crossmember.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/773.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN2984_zpse66999b5.jpg.html)


If you ever cut a crossmember open remember to install a drain hole !

Martin, here is the other end of the steering damper.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/774.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN2980_zpse9e27149.jpg.html)


Colin

[gromit]

Figured out why the feed from the brake reservoir had a piece of hose joining a steel pipe at each end. It's a later CV master cylinder and it has metric fittings !

Made up a new brake pipe from the junction on the chassis up to the master cylinder and the tube nut was too small. Hunted down the pipe I took out when removing the booster and found that a short piece of pipe with a metric tube nut had been brazed to the end of an imperial pipe (tube nut still in situ).
I'll have to take a picture of it, classic bit of bush engineering when a suitable flaring tool wasn't available.......

Just found a picture of it in situ, post #6, last picture. You can see a tube nut on the tube above a tube nut screwed into the master cylinder.



Colin

[gromit]

Couldn't get it started today, ran for a short while if you tipped petrol down the carby.
Turned out thet the fuel in the float bowl had evaporated and it takes some time for fuel to get pumped from the tank (I miss the manual priming lever on a Landy fuel pump).

Changed the tube nut on the brake line so it's now Imperial one end and Metric the other. The brake pipe I sourced was that horrible green painted stuff, my flaring tool tends to damage the paint.

Here is the 'bush' fix. Obviously no access to a flaring tool so a piece of pipe with a metric tube nut was brazed onto the original pipe......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/313.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN3009_zpsd061e9d4.jpg.html)


Colin

[gromit]

Tried to get it started at the weekend and there are fuel supply problems.
Looks like it either needs a either a fuel pump diaphragm or there is a leak in the fuel line letting air in or maybe a blocked in-line filter.
Fill the float chamber and tip some down the carby and it starts & runs but just will not pump from the tank.

Steve, the owner now has a problem. The vehicle is in Narre Warren and he needs to get it to Springhurst (just past Wangaratta).
His wife has just had another baby, he has a lot of work on and the time to drive down & collect plus the cost of trailer hire mean that he might have to let this one go to a new owner.

I'll put an thread in The AULRO courier service first......

Bad points.
Rotten front crossmember.
Most military bits gone.
Holden 202.
Transfer box needs replacing.
Aircleaner missing.

Good points.
Holden 202 runs well and has a new water pump.
Radiator (series 3 type) looks new but it has been modified to fit.
Good single cab.


If it comes to it I can part it out but I like to try to move it to Steve first, if that fails sell it, parting out will be a last resort.


Colin

[gromit]

Had another go at fixing the fuel supply problems.
Fuel pump off, debris cleaned out and seems to work OK. Put it back into the fuel line and it pumped fuel.
Re-fitted it to the 202 motor, filled the float chamber, tipped fuel down the carby and it started & ran OK. Then died when it ran out of fuel.

Still not delivering fuel. Checked and the float needle wasn't jammed so the motor is not operating the pump.
Not being a Holden man, what operates the fuel pump and can the pump be fitted incorrectly ?

Need to get this mobile so I can deliver it.



Colin

[marting]

Hi Colin

From memory (it has been a while since I worked on one of these) the fuel pump simply has a lever that runs off the cam. Same operation as a 2.25 petrol rover engine. It could possibly be the diaphram in the pump. These will go hard with age and split. Once this happens the pump no longer functions.

Cheers, Martin

[Homestar]

Yep, just a lever off the Cam. The diaphragm will be split as mentioned. Easiest fix is an electric pump if you have one lying around to get you going.

I have a good pump here I can lend you if you just need to shift it somewhere but it's off an engine I'm selling, so I sort of need it back. I can drop it around either Monday sometime or later in the week.

[gromit]

Yep, just a lever off the Cam. The diaphragm will be split as mentioned. Easiest fix is an electric pump if you have one lying around to get you going.

I have a good pump here I can lend you if you just need to shift it somewhere but it's off an engine I'm selling, so I sort of need it back. I can drop it around either Monday sometime or later in the week.

Thanks for the offer but I have a s/h facet pump I can fit as a temporary fix.

Someone told me yesterday that he thought the cam for the pump was pinned to the camshaft ? If that's the case could the pin have broken ?
Another thought was that the diaphragm, although not split, has taken a 'set' and is holding the lever away from the cam.

It did work for a while then stopped, manually operating the lever it works.


Colin

[chazza]

Sometimes it is possible to miss the cam with the lever, when installing the pump - it sits beneath the cam instead of on top of it.

Rotate the crankshaft by hand, whilst looking into the port with a torch; when the cam is sticking towards you, or towards the bottom of the engine install the pump. I find it handy to lift the lever upwards as I do this, to make sure that it can't slip under the cam-lobe,

Cheers Charlie

[Lionelgee]

Thanks for the offer but I have a s/h facet pump I can fit as a temporary fix.

Someone told me yesterday that he thought the cam for the pump was pinned to the camshaft ? If that's the case could the pin have broken ?
Another thought was that the diaphragm, although not split, has taken a 'set' and is holding the lever away from the cam.

It did work for a while then stopped, manually operating the lever it works.


Colin


G'day Colin,

The Facet fuel pump for a Holden engine is a lower rating than the Facet fuel pump for a Land Rover - six cylinder. The Holden Stromberg carburettor will need a pump that runs at 6 TO 8 PSI The product code is FPX023.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Sometimes it is possible to miss the cam with the lever, when installing the pump - it sits beneath the cam instead of on top of it.

Rotate the crankshaft by hand, whilst looking into the port with a torch; when the cam is sticking towards you, or towards the bottom of the engine install the pump. I find it handy to lift the lever upwards as I do this, to make sure that it can't slip under the cam-lobe,

Cheers Charlie

Thanks Charlie, I'll pull the pump off later and have a better look.
I might also try Autobarn for a diaphragm.

Colin

[gromit]

Took the pump off and re-fitted it (carefully) without a gasket.
Started OK but quickly died again, but this time carby full and pump had primed.

Eventually tracked the latest problem down to the bucket seal on the accelerator pump, it had split and a piece had fallen out (managed to fish it out of the carby).
I remember a lot of problems on my Series I which has a Holden carby, replaced about 3 of these seals then eventually tracked down a leather seal to fit onto the old brass pump shaft. No problems since.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/426.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN3130_zps304dece9.jpg.html)


Looks like I now need an accelerator pump seal.....


Colin

[chazza]

If you can get access to a lathe Colin, you could make two simple male and female formers and press leather seals; an old riggers glove would probably work well. Do it with the the leather wet - with a bit of ingenuity a lathe may not be needed,

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

If you can get access to a lathe Colin, you could make two simple male and female formers and press leather seals; an old riggers glove would probably work well. Do it with the the leather wet - with a bit of ingenuity a lathe may not be needed,

Cheers Charlie

Thanks Charlie, the owner is sending me a seal.

You need the original brass plunger for the leather seal, the plastic plunger is usually supplied with the Fuel Miser kits.

Colin

[gromit]

Steve couldn't find a seal so I tracked down a carby shop (getting a bit thin on the ground nowadays).
Picked up an accelerator pump piston in plastic and also a brass one with leather seal. I'll keep the brass one as a spare for my Series I and hopefully the plastic one will get the IIa running well enough to get onto a trailer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/13.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN3132_zps2f9964e5.jpg.html)



Colin

[gromit]

Took the carby off and fitted the new accelerator piston/seal, put it back together, filled the carby with petrol and...... it wouldn't pump fuel when the throttle was opened. Took the lid off the carby and the piston was difficult to push down.
Back on the bench it turned out that the passageways from the bottom of the piston had dirt inside. Pulled out a small blanking plug & used compressed air to blow the dirt out and the accelerator pump is now working properly.

Hopefully when I fit it tomorrow everything works OK and it'll start & run.


Colin

[gromit]

Fitted the carby and it started OK but the motor was revving quite high.
Tracked down a couple of air leaks and also a lot of play in the throttle linkages. Couldn't find a spring so ended up with some bungee elastic and some wire to make a temporary spring to make sure the throttle closed fully.

Starts first time and is now ready to drive onto a trailer.


Colin

[Lionelgee]

Starts first time and is now ready to drive onto a trailer.Colin


G'day Gromit,

How far away are you going to be parking the car trailer? :) It has been a lot of effort to get it starting and running.

Are you going to park the vehicle one end of your property set up an obstacle course and run up to the car trailer located near the exit to your place? It would make all your efforts more worthwhile and more fun too!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

G'day Gromit,

How far away are you going to be parking the car trailer? :) It has been a lot of effort to get it starting and running.

Are you going to park the vehicle one end of your property set up an obstacle course and run up to the car trailer located near the exit to your place? It would make all your efforts more worthwhile and more fun too!

Kind Regards
Lionel

Lionel,

Steve is on 13 acres and has promised that one of my son's can learn to drive the IIa once we get it up there. I catch up with him 3-4 times per year.
He also has a big machinery shed and has promised that if I buy a Land Rover up his part of the World I can leave it there until the dust settles at home :)

It has been a bit of work getting it running but as always the challenge provides the reward.


Colin

[gromit]

Steve now has his IIa, delivered to Springhurst last night.

Many thanks to rangieman for the loan of a trailer.
A bit on the big side but it towed well behind the TDV6 (Territory). Some black smoke when accelerating on the way up because of the load but took it easy.....

Came back with four of Steve's Bantam chooks to increase our stock, hens only (despite him wanting to include a few roosters). Plus a hydraulic puller for Wrinklearthur.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/782.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN3150_zps277a4a0d.jpg.html)



Colin