Started with an alternator now not starting

[chrispy]

Problem to think about with my 2005 discovery 3 2.7 tdv6

Car was working all fine except no charging from alternator.


· Replaced alternator last night, old one had not charging output voltage. new Denso brand alternator installed.
· Installed new drive belt at the same time (picture taken before and after to check it was installed correctly)
· Re installed fan etc.


Tried to start engine, click (sound of starter motor relay? (sound under drivers side door), as long as the key was in the crank position would stay in, headlights not dimming at all whilst attempting to start)

Starter motor solenoid clicking in (noise under drivers door) but not even attempting to turn flywheel

Check for voltage on the alternator 12.5v to frame, unable to get to start motor to check voltage

Checked for faults using hawkeye non found

Parrelled up dual battery system, still no turning of flywheel on start attempt, only click starter solenoid.

Left the car on the charger all last night tried again this morning. The same just click

Moving forward and question


i am planning to access the starter motor tonight to check security, main power cable has voltage and for voltage drop when the start solenoid is engaged.

Stupid question but I need to ask. it Does the new cars computer need to programme for the new alternator.

Any other advice only bought the disco 3 months ago so still learning heaps.

Cheers.

[sheerluck]

When the D3 alternator goes, it quite often kills the batteries at the same time. Are you totally confident in the battery having charged correctly?

[bbyer]

If the solenoid is clicking, the start signal must be getting thru - hence all that electronic immobilizer stuff must be OK.

I assume you removed one or both of the battery cables so maybe just look at the connections at the battery posts again. Since your headlights work, there must be enough connection to get power to the headlights but they do not take much compared to a starter motor.

Then maybe if you can get to it, wiggle the positive cable connector at the starter. I assume the short battery ground cable at the fender stud is tight?

Defective starter - probably not; it is only the alternators that are bad when installed new.

[Tombie]

Done all the basic checks?

Gearbox in park
Battery terminals connected tightly
All wires connected where they should be? (Earth etc)
Alternator wiring connected back where it's supposed to go?
And earth wires removed from engine and not refitted?
Battery voltage ok?
Vehicle locked and then unlocked to clear immobiliser?

[Graeme]

Check that there is voltage where the starter cable connects to the 500A fusible link that's bolted to the battery positive terminal. The power connection to the rest of the vehicle goes directly from the +ve post to the fuse box so a dud fusible link or loose connection on the fusible link will cause no or insufficient power only to the starter cable, which also doubles as the alternator output cable.
Edit: Did you leave the battery connected and happen to short the alternator power cable to earth during the swap?

[chrispy]

Yeh, i did disconnect the battery on install,

For some reason there isn't a main fuse installed on my car as its just a direct link from the battery to the starter motor than to the alternator. (concerning will retro fit a fuse/circuit breaker)

i ended up finding that the the starter motors main 12v supply was loose and gosh that was hard to tighten, but done now and all working perfect.

does anyone know if there is a place to send old alternators to be fixed or is there a place to buy replacement parts. i still haven't pulled it apart but I'm assuming it won't be the windings just the electronics.

cheers....

[Graeme]

concerning will retro fit a fuse/circuit breaker
I'm going to move the alternator cable from the starter to the battery via a fusible link of suitable rating for the alternator (200A for my D4). I have to R&R the alternator to do it though, which is a little more work on a 3.0 than a 2.7.