2010 Puma - sign of impending problems?

[Samblers]

Just got in my 2010 Puma, started engine. Strange engine/exhaust sound that i havent heard before. Fans and Aircon were not operational. I did a 3min Journey, turned the engine off.

The EGR valve didn't do its usual chuga-chuga-chuga thing and the turbo seemed to spin on longer than usual.

Un-nerved, tried to re-start but no-go, wouldnt even turn over.

I left it 5mins then it re-started as normal, no strange sounds and Air-con/fans now operational. EGR valve chugged away as usual on switch-off.

Any idea what the problem might be? I'm at 70,000km and 4 months out of warranty :huh:

[Samblers]

Anyone?

Wild guesses?

[Drover]

Sound electrical, rather than mechanical to me.

EGR can be disabled electronically and with the motor not wanting to turn over, it stinks of electrickery. May be immobiliser ...... With a twist for the EGR.

Probably won't do it again, fingers crossed.

[Samblers]

Hmm, engine/exhaust sound didnt seem electrical to me

But then i've no idea what might link aircon/fans and the EGR valve both playing up???

Been fine since ...

[Drover]

Obviously hard when I haven't heard it first hand, but air con fan and the thermo fans are obviously control by the engine management computer.

The EGR valve is, again control by the engine management computer. The normal "ka-chunk ka-chunk" (self cleaning cycle of EGR) is no longer heard once the EGR has been permanently closed by a re-map.

Would be great to hear from some of our more learned members.

[BilboBoggles]

When my EGR valve started failing at about 70,000ks, and during one episode it stuck open, you could definitely hear a lot of noise from the intake. If it's also not making it's normal gently ticky sounds then I'd bet it's jammed either open or partially open.

When you say it would not even turn over - do you mean the starter motor did not try to turn the engine to start it? If so that could be a separate different issue, for example my ignition barrel started playing up and occasionally would not engage the starter motor. I've had loos fuses and relays causing no starting.

[Samblers]

Yep thats correct Bilbo, when it failed to start i'd put the key in, from memory the glow plug light didnt come on, but the engine light stayed on. It would not even crank over (i.e. turn key nothing happens).

I tried several times back and forth, it was dead.

Didnt investigate much because i had to collect kids from babyjail but when i got out it started up fine as normal. This rules out fuses in my book?

If its possible that this is EGR valve related i'd just like to know if this is similar to other peoples experience of EGR valve slow demise and death? If i'm fore-warned then i can plan to do the BAS remap thing and disable it.

When the EGR valve dies, is the car driveable? I really dont want to get stuck somewhere, especially somewhere remote.

Cheers, Sam

[BilboBoggles]

That failure to turn over sounds very much like the ignition switch failure on my 2009 110. That got progressively worse until eventually if permanently died at the fuel pump in a busy service station with my wife driving and the three kids in the back.. Very embarrasing - but luckily covered under warranty.

If the EGR valve does stop working you will get an engine check light. But I don't know if it will also go into limp mode. If it does - it's almost undriveable on the road - but still usable to get to safety.

[Samblers]

Hmm

Regarding ignition switch failure, when i first started the car up it started up ok, just sounded like crap and the aircon/fans werent working.

I wonder if accessories (a/c etc.) run off a different terminal on the ignition switch to the ignition/engine system?

[BilboBoggles]

Yes they are on a different circuit/terminal on the switch. The accessory circuit is fire up in ignition position 1, the run circuit position 2, and the starter position3. Each one of these is a separate circuit through the switch. these feeds drive relays and fuses in various locations under the drivers seat. These relay's do sometimes work them selves loose. Also the terminals on the fuse block can get loose, and then promptly melt due to the current. It might be worth opening up the drivers seat cover and pulling and reseating each relay/module. And also checking for melted bits......

[Samblers]

OK good call, i'll do that. Disconnect battery first?

Presume ignition switch replacement is best done by LR, if it comes to this?