Land Rover series II chassis options

[reachjatt]

Land Rover series II chassis options

The rear cross member and front leg on my series II SWB seem to be beyond repair, rust has completely eaten thru the metal.

I have a option of repairing the existing one (which is done by most of us) or wait until something better comes up in markets. I am also contemplating on getting Series LWB chassis (almost in perfect condition) and some how shorten it to same dimensions as SWB.

Hope someone has done this before and can guide if this is viable and cost effective option.

What are challenges in terms of modifications to chassis rails, cross members etc. Any pic's of this done previously will be great.

[grey_ghost]

Hi,

I am in no way an expert - but I purchased repair sections and had them welded in.

If you get another chassis - you will have to remember that the Chassis number is located on the left-hand-side rear spring hanger.

I am guessing that if you simply use another chassis, you would then get another chassis number - and that could give you hassles when trying to register the car?

As you say, maybe a LWB chassis can be altered so that it becomes a SWB. But if you are going to that trouble, why not cut/weld in repair sections, and thus retain the original chassis number?

Just my two cents worth! :wasntme:

[Ozdunc]

From a rego point of view keeping your original chassis number is good.
If you use the LWB chassis it becomes a LWB in the eyes of the law and then a modified vehicle, with all that entails.
Plus cutting and shutting a chassis isn't a simple affair, you need to understand the stresses the chassis is under at the place you decide to cut and shape your cuts and weld your reinforcement accordingly.

Rear x-members are easy to come by and not that expensive, same with front hangers as they are a common repairs needed in the UK with the salty winter roads.
Obviously you're going to need to check over the rest of your chassis, but most problems can be repaired, it really depends on how much effort you want put into repairing them.

The most important thing to do is ensure the alignment of your repairs is good, wonky front hangers aren't going to give you a nice driving experience.

I would look into repairing your original chassis if at all possible, then buy a SWB chassis if possible, then look at converting a LWB chassis as a very last resort.

Your other option would be to put your engine and panels on to the LWB and go up a size:D

[reachjatt]

Hi GG and Ozdunc,

Although, I am exploring other options, I still haven't ruled out repairing my existing SWB chassis (Considering it will be registered at some point). However having said that, i can see it will require lot of hammering, sanding, patching, re-welding etc etc my worries are these will compromises structural integrity.

On the other hand, the person offering me LWB chassis is worth nothing to him. so, it's pretty much free for me to take away. The way i see it i might just get away with cutting and re-welding the common rail section (which i understand is big NO NO!!! well someone mentioned that while i wasn't listening) rather than all the other hassle.

:censored:As far as chassis number goes i guess 1. grind it 2. fill it 3. grind it 4. re-stamp it. " (i think i should be able to get away with that unless inspector got hawke eyes :D

Ozdunc as mentioned “most importantly repairs should be good otherwise you end with all sort of problems”. I have been looking for SWB chassis but its same tale with most of them either rotten or very poorly revamped.

GG: I must say, i have keen follower of Roger's rebuild and must congratulate you on the wonderful job you have done.

[reachjatt]

Here are few pic's

[debruiser]

I'd be repairing that chassis. As long as the rest of it is good (other than what you have mentioned) either fab up some parts or just buy them, as mentioned by others, they are plentiful and not too expensive. Maybe if the LWB chassis has good bits just hack them off for your SWB..... :wasntme:

[67hardtop]

Hi guys, did u all forget that swb spring hangers on the rear are in a different position...ie inboard from lwb hangers??? Cheers Rod :wasntme:

As Debruiser says cut the bits off lwb chassis and use on swb as repair sections....All Good

[reachjatt]

Hi guys, did u all forget that swb spring hangers on the rear are in a different position...ie inboard from lwb hangers??? Cheers Rod :wasntme:

As Debruiser says cut the bits off lwb chassis and use on swb as repair sections....All Good

Hi 67hardtop,

Debruiser made lot of sense i.e. cut off good parts of LWB and put them into SWB.

On another thought, as you mentioned hangers are outside of the chassis it might be just perfect opportunity for me to incorporate my Salisbury axle with manual McNamara differential lock into SWB.

P.S. Got another lead on SWB fully restored and galvanized chassis. Which only means one thing, I will be soon asking for lot of overtime at work.

decision decision

[NiteMare]

there's a lot of differences between a lwb chassis and swb, as already mentioned there's the different rear spring hanger mount locations, then there's different/more crossmembers, a lwb chassis is also deeper than the swb by quite a bit

and finally a S3 lwb chassis is welded down the centre line rather than at the corners

so if your chassis is inspected by anyone that has a small knowledge of Series vehicles is very likely to spot the oddity if you attempt a cut and shut

i've extensively repaired both lwb and swb chassis and as said most sections can be bought relatively cheaply, or with care rot can be cut out and replaced with good metal

if you look through these two albums you'll get an idea of the repairs i've done

My 1965 109 Photos by NiteMare_08 | Photobucket (http://s259.photobucket.com/user/NiteMare_08/library/My%201965%20109'sort=3&page=1)

Zebedee Photos by NiteMare_08 | Photobucket (http://s259.photobucket.com/user/NiteMare_08/library/Zebedee'sort=3&page=1)

hope that helps