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Homestar
19th April 2014, 08:41 PM
So, for those in the know, how tight should a steering relay be with nothing connected to it? The one I have come across is very tight and I can barely move it using the arms on it.

Is that how they are supposed to be or are there issues I need to be looking at?

Cheers - Gav.

JDNSW
19th April 2014, 10:00 PM
So, for those in the know, how tight should a steering relay be with nothing connected to it? The one I have come across is very tight and I can barely move it using the arms on it.

Is that how they are supposed to be or are there issues I need to be looking at?

Cheers - Gav.

Book says 12-16 pounds measured on the eye of the lever. And instructs you how to ensure oil gets on the surface of the bushes if it exceeds that figure!

John

Homestar
19th April 2014, 10:02 PM
Thanks - it certainly is exceeding that figure... By a lot...

JDNSW
20th April 2014, 05:52 AM
Thanks - it certainly is exceeding that figure... By a lot...

Has it got any oil in it?

John

Homestar
20th April 2014, 06:28 AM
No idea...:D

Only just got to it. Dropped all the steering stuff to replace all the tie rod ends and went to give the relay a wiggle - nothing. I really have to lean on it to move it at all.

I'll be back there next weekend, I'll go over all that more thoroughly then.

Cheers.

wrinklearthur
20th April 2014, 07:24 AM
Do not disassemble without following the workshop manual procedure.

Within the steering relay there are tapered bushes that are loaded with a strong spring and may cause serious injury if released in a incorrect manner.
.

gromit
20th April 2014, 08:14 AM
I've had two now that were partly filled with rusty water rather than oil.
There is some info on rebuilding here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-19.html

You need some way of compressing the spring to get it back together. Taking it apart is straightforward, with the endplates removed wrap it with rags and drive the shaft out (the rags catch the spring & tufnol bushes).
Post #259 here shows one that has just been driven apart http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-26.html

If there is water inside the biggest issue is pitting on the shaft where the seal runs. I've machined them down but the seal doesn't seal as tightly.

The aftermarket relays are cheap but of dubious quality.


Colin

Homestar
20th April 2014, 08:17 AM
Just going to go with oil at the moment to see if it frees up. It's been sitting for years, so I'm guessing all the oil has fallen out.:)

gromit
20th April 2014, 08:26 AM
Just going to go with oil at the moment to see if it frees up. It's been sitting for years, so I'm guessing all the oil has fallen out.:)

Tried that with one of mine and guess what.......the oil fell straight out again !
Suggest you don't fill it right up until you know whether it will hold the oil in.

I did do a 'budget' fix on my Series I, I removed the lower seal housing and just replaced the seal http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/159944-1956-series-1-pto-welder-home-made-6.html


Colin

67hardtop
27th April 2014, 07:20 PM
When I got my old girl the relay was tight but when I moved the steering it had a lot of play in it. I was given another relay (with the chassis cut around it still attatched) and was told it was ex military. It actually had a grease nipple fitted to the top of the shaft. After cutting the chassis piece to free it, I fitted it and greased it up. no more play or leaks.

Cheers Rod:D

Nb. was told that the military actually drilled two holes in the rad panel so as to remove the relay without removing the rad panel etc:cool:

gromit
28th April 2014, 08:36 PM
When I got my old girl the relay was tight but when I moved the steering it had a lot of play in it. I was given another relay (with the chassis cut around it still attatched) and was told it was ex military. It actually had a grease nipple fitted to the top of the shaft. After cutting the chassis piece to free it, I fitted it and greased it up. no more play or leaks.

Cheers Rod:D

Nb. was told that the military actually drilled two holes in the rad panel so as to remove the relay without removing the rad panel etc:cool:


I can't see grease working that well, it would be displaced and then the relay would stiffen up again. Plus if you kept pumping in grease the seals would eventually be forced out.
Maybe it was an oil nipple, easier to fill by forcing the oil in rather than waiting for it to dribble through the split tufnol bush.

I haven't seen the drilled holes in Military LR's but I'll look in future, my two don't have them. I've removed the relay bolts by removing a few bolts holding front panel to wing and front panel to chassis and then pulling the lower edge of the front panel forward.

I have a front axle that has grease nipples fitted for the front swivels. Seems like a 'bush' fix and not a long term solution.


Colin

JDNSW
29th April 2014, 05:37 AM
I can't see grease working that well, it would be displaced and then the relay would stiffen up again. Plus if you kept pumping in grease the seals would eventually be forced out.
Maybe it was an oil nipple, easier to fill by forcing the oil in rather than waiting for it to dribble through the split tufnol bush.

I haven't seen the drilled holes in Military LR's but I'll look in future, my two don't have them. I've removed the relay bolts by removing a few bolts holding front panel to wing and front panel to chassis and then pulling the lower edge of the front panel forward.

I have a front axle that has grease nipples fitted for the front swivels. Seems like a 'bush' fix and not a long term solution.


Colin

I agree - grease is unsuitable for the relay - but a grease gun can be filled with oil!

My ex-military 2a has the holes for the relay mounting bolts, although I did not realise that they were a military mod - I assumed they were just a mod on some models of 2a rather than aftermarket - they look original.

John