Why is the Defender wading depth only 500mm?

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Question for the brains trust :cool:

I have no desire to drown my Defender any time soon (or ever! :eek: ), but I am curious why the wading depth quoted in the current Defender handbook is only 500mm.

The under driver seat electrics are minimum 600mm and probably closer to 700mm, and the air intake lowest point seems to be around 800mm.

In fact there does not seem to be much of a Defender that is less than 500mm from the ground!

So what gives?

Thanks in advance,
FWD

[Alex 110]

I don't have experience of the td5 defender but in my 300tdi I had water coming green over the top of the bullbar & that was with a 2" lift, so the depth would have had to be between 1m & 1.2m. Of course I had a snorkel fitted

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Because the air intake is in the side of the mudguard and the "bow wave" will risk water ingress into the intake.

Also when hot metal like diffs and gearboxes hit cold water you get rapid cooling then metals and fluids etc contract, creating a partial vacuum which risks drawing water/mud into the various submerged assemblies.

[vnx205]

I suppose it always gives LR a huge margin so that if something goes wrong when you drive through something more than ankle deep they can claim it was your fault.

They are probably capable of safely negotiating much deeper water if you do things right, even without modifications.

[skoller]

Also there is a big hole on top of the clutch housing under the little aluminium cover that shields a sensor. Its easy to fill the clutch housing with dirty water when wading up to that level as I did when fording the Durack River in WA. When my clutch was replaced under warrenty the dealer wondered why it was all rusty.

[87County]

........
Also when hot metal like diffs and gearboxes hit cold water you get rapid cooling then metals and fluids etc contract, creating a partial vacuum which risks drawing water/mud into the various submerged assemblies.

I think that they've all had extended breathers factory fitted to the diffs since the mid 80s.

These, if clear, would help cope with this problem.

However, they can and do get blocked

[AndyG]

I read somewhere that a fibre optic thingy for the throttle is dangerously low ?
And the author carried a spare

[benji]

The throttle potentiometer. Basically just above your right foot and not waterproof. But that's be at least 700 high.

[PAT303]

Because it's a Defender,not a boat. Pat

[scarry]

It's LR being cautious.

I had my D2 in water over the bonnet more than once,and same with the son's Puma.
Driving through properly prepared is no worries,but if you happen to stop,for whatever reason, it is all over,so it's pretty risky.

[Blknight.aus]

drive line lubrication breathers, and points.

its also about the height that the breather for the fuel tank begins to be at risk from water being washed up over the fuel tank.

[Psimpson7]

The throttle potentiometer. Basically just above your right foot and not waterproof. But that's be at least 700 high.

Had the throttle totally under water plenty of times on my td5, (not the tdci yet) and it's never stopped working. Water over the top of the gearbox tunnel more than once (I do carry a spare however just in case)

[vnx205]

Water over the top of the gearbox tunnel more than once (I do carry a spare however just in case)

You carry a spare gearbox?
:p

[uninformed]

You carry a spare gearbox?
:p

Just the tunnel ;)

[Psimpson7]

:D spare gearbox would have been handy once!

[camel_landy]

The combination of:


Oil seals
Air intakes
Breathers
Electronics (don't forget the ABS sensors).
Margin of error.
Litigation.. :angel:
Yes, with some modificaitons you can take the car further but ultimately, the Defender is a VERY old design.

M

[inside]

They are fine to take to 1.5 metres

Shore to Ship and Back again - by Land Rover! - YouTube

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Thanks all - certainly plenty to think about. It seems to be that what you don't know certainly will hurt in this case...

In the past I have been very apprehensive with water crossings, and plan to stay that way!

[PAT303]

Thats the smart way. Pat

[87County]

They are fine to take to 1.5 metres

Shore to Ship and Back again - by Land Rover! - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKEG-uMsHio)



and I had been led to believe that it was salt on the roads that caused the corrosion problems :D

[carlosbeldia]

Potentiometer doesn't have problems with water. I had to go through this flood every day last year during 3 weeks and no problems at all with the throttle. HOwever, A/C pulley's bearing was another story.....:(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKIwQMIHKeg

[camel_landy]

Thats the smart way. Pat

Indeed... People forget just how powerful water is and it doesn't take much to get you into trouble. To put that into context:

If 1L = 1kg = 10 cm3
Therefore
1M3 = 1000L = 1Tonne!!!

When fording, you can be pushing sever tonne of water... Or have several tonne of water, pushing on the side of the car!!

They also forget that if the water is deep enough, the car becomes buoyant... Once you reach that point, it only needs the slightest of flow and you're at the mercy of the current. People die, every year due to that one...

M

[Iain_B]

Is there a standard definition of "wading". Mercedes Benz only rate Unimogs at 1.2m "wading depth". Unimogs have air pressurised axle, transfer case/gearbox etc, and rubber seals and things like the dipstick and oil cap even though are 1.6m about the ground.

According to an engineer who used to work at MB their definition of wading to be able to stop in water 1.2m deep for a minimum of 2 hours at idle, and then drive off without any effect on the vehicle.

Not sure if this is a DIN standard but I expect manufactures are talking about being in the water for a lot longer than just the few seconds in a river crossing.

[Blknight.aus]

Is there a standard definition of "wading". Mercedes Benz only rate Unimogs at 1.2m "wading depth". Unimogs have air pressurised axle, transfer case/gearbox etc, and rubber seals and things like the dipstick and oil cap even though are 1.6m about the ground.

According to an engineer who used to work at MB their definition of wading to be able to stop in water 1.2m deep for a minimum of 2 hours at idle, and then drive off without any effect on the vehicle.

Not sure if this is a DIN standard but I expect manufactures are talking about being in the water for a lot longer than just the few seconds in a river crossing.


on most mogs the batteries are at 1.2m as is the front crank seal.

[FeatherWeightDriver]

None of these are me (or hopefully will ever be!) ;)

DEEP WATER CROSSINGS !!! 4wd 4x4 offroad - YouTube

PS: Is the Land Rover at 5:55 anyone on here?

[uninformed]

So none of you have been or plan to go to Cape York?

Somethimes crossing a creek deeper than 500mm is the only way through. Yes a person has the choice….

[FeatherWeightDriver]

So none of you have been or plan to go to Cape York?

Somethimes crossing a creek deeper than 500mm is the only way through. Yes a person has the choice….

Yes I do plan to go to the Cape, and that's part of the reason I ask.

There are times where it is be necessary to go deeper than 500mm in order to get to where you want to be, or face turning back.

The choice has to do with a lot of things, but it would be an uninformed decision without knowing what the weak points of the vehicle are before wading in.

Some things can be fixed (breathers, sealed raised air intake etc), but others may not be as easily sorted.

Some are ok as long as you don't stop, others more vulnerable to water coming from specific sides (e.g. stock air intake).

Either way, learning from the knowledge and/or mistakes of others is a whole lot safer / cheaper than "she'll be right".

PS: sorry could not help the puns.

[Blknight.aus]

learn how to hook up a tarp as a wading blanket first up (you'll be surprised at exactly how fast you can do it when you have sorted the correct assembly of occy straps, zip ties, tie downs and tarp mods presorted (including sewing the loose flaps of the tarp if needed so its a preshaped fit.

ALWAYS walk the crossing first

remember the 3 golden requirements/rules.

1. Can the vehicle get me there?
2. can I get the vehicle there?
3. do I need to get there?

A no or Im not sure to any of them should mean you dont do it.

On a good day, I had putting the wading tarp on on fozzy down to about 15 seconds.

[chopper]

So you don't get the carpet or your boat shoes wet.
Seriously though , water pressure pushing is a good point and much over 500mm is starting to push on the body. Land Rover is not going to recommend anything that might be " dangerous " now are they. You cant even say "do so at your own risk" because that in itself suggests that it may not be safe to continue.
Bit like putting a dog warning sign on your gate, can make you worse off .

How high is the starter motor ?

[PAT303]

Indeed... People forget just how powerful water is and it doesn't take much to get you into trouble. To put that into context:

If 1L = 1kg = 10 cm3
Therefore
1M3 = 1000L = 1Tonne!!!

When fording, you can be pushing sever tonne of water... Or have several tonne of water, pushing on the side of the car!!

They also forget that if the water is deep enough, the car becomes buoyant... Once you reach that point, it only needs the slightest of flow and you're at the mercy of the current. People die, every year due to that one...

M

How many times have there been floods in Australia were the news DIDN'T report someone being washed off a road and drowned?. Pat

[PAT303]

So none of you have been or plan to go to Cape York?

Somethimes crossing a creek deeper than 500mm is the only way through. Yes a person has the choice….

Yes in the Tdi,I was one of the few who didn't drown my engine.If you have no choice do the crossing but hot mechanicals don't really like cold water. Pat

[KarlB]

The recommended maximum wading depth for a Puma (500 mm) is close to the sills. At 600 mm you have water on the floor in the front of the vehicle. At 750 mm you have water entering the back. At 900 mm you reach the bottom of the air intake, but at this depth some sensitive electronics and battery are under the water. From the external air intake, the ducting rises within the engine compartment with the bottom of the ducting (at its highest point) being close to 1000 mm. We are talking some seriously deep water here. The Defender is not a boat. You MAY be able to get through such depths for a shortish distance but you MUST NOT STOP. At that depth you clearly should use some sort of sheet over the front of your vehicle to make a bow wave and to keep the water out of the engine bay. In water crossing, a raised air intake is not a snorkel as some would like to foolishly consider them. However they are useful to keep splashing and small waves, etc. from getting into the air intake. The air ducting is itself not waterproof. Appropriate sealing may be worth while and I have installed a Nugget kit.

If the water is 500 mm or less then you should not need a wading sheet. You can change gear, etc. At depths greater than 600 mm you will start to loose traction because of flotation (until the vehicle fills with water and this this con be moderately quick with a Defender). This is a particularly serious issue if the water you are crossing is fast flowing. I have often read claims "that the water depth was over the bonnet." Most such claims I believe are exaggerations. That is not to say that water may not have surge over the bonnet. I have had that occur at depths closer to 500 mm. It is more likely as your speed increases. The depth at which the bonnet hinges are under the water is about 1250 mm. At this depth about a third of your steering wheel is in the water and your gear stick completely submerged. I have been at such depths in Series diesels but not in a Puma. The seat cushions took ages to dry!

You also need to be mindful that if you cause any damage to your vehicle by crossing water deeper than the recommended maximum you may find that you are not be covered by warranty nor insurance.

There are a few simple rules:
1. Always walk the crossing first to check depth, currents, obstacles, etc
2. Is there a shallower alternative crossing?
3. If in any doubt: don't do it (much better to get home feeling a bit of a coward than to not get home at all)
4. Plan your recovery before you enter into the water (what are the consequences when you do get stuck?)
5. Prepare your vehicle and contents (wading sheet, vulnerable valuables raised, etc).
6. Select an appropriate gear (you do not want to change gear mid crossing)
7. Proceed cautiously but with determination (this is how you should tackle every serious obstacle)
8. After the crossing, dry your brakes and check your vehicle for water ingress.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[Trundle]

I agree with most of the responses, but add, especially after watching the you tube vid posted, there are two really important questions you need to ask yourself before any crossing ( and I qualify this by saying that yes I have done some incredibly stupid things on my own ) but the questions are:
A: am I willing to drop $60,000+ on this crossing?
B: am I prepared to risk the life of my loved ones?
High flow crossings can go wrong in the shortest moment, and I have seen my share of vehicles washed away, especially with multiple attempts at the exit. Vehicle damage can always be fixed and money replaced, but too many people put their lives and their loved ones at risk, due to poor planing and shear stupidity.
Cheers

[n plus one]

In my experience, I wouldn't go higher than 1500mm in a Puma - the truck keeps going but it's a pain in the arse drying the seats/pulling the trim out, etc :p

I'll be up the Cape in September - when are you going?

[Dopey]

Indeed... People forget just how powerful water is and it doesn't take much to get you into trouble. To put that into context:

If 1L = 1kg = 10 cm3
Therefore
1M3 = 1000L = 1Tonne!!!

When fording, you can be pushing sever tonne of water... Or have several tonne of water, pushing on the side of the car!!

They also forget that if the water is deep enough, the car becomes buoyant... Once you reach that point, it only needs the slightest of flow and you're at the mercy of the current. People die, every year due to that one...

M

Camel_landy,
Your maths is interesting, how many cm3 are there in a litre? :eek:

Regards,
Mike.

[camel_landy]

Ooops... I missed off a couple of zeros. :wasntme:

You get the point though, water is chuffin' heavy and when it gets moving, there are some serious forces there!!

M

[camel_landy]

So none of you have been or plan to go to Cape York?

Been there, done that... ;)

The point is the car is designed for 500mm. With the right knowledge, you can take it further but you do so at your own risk!

M

[camel_landy]

How many times have there been floods in Australia were the news DIDN'T report someone being washed off a road and drowned?. Pat
I wouldn't know, I'm back in the UK these days... :p

...but work with a load of firefighters, so get all the gory details!!! :o

M

[MuzzyDelta90]

Am looking at doing one of those tag-a-long tours of the Victorian High Country in November ( I have a MY2012 90) and was chatting to one of the guys from Great Divide Tours at the Rosehill Camping and Caravan Show yesterday about doing the tour. As most of you probably know, there are more than a few river crossings involved in the Victorian High Country. The guy mentioned that you have to get the diff breather tube extended. He wasn't being Landrover specific when he mentioned this but is something that Puma owners need to do when crossing water?
cheers
Andrew

[n plus one]

Am looking at doing one of those tag-a-long tours of the Victorian High Country in November ( I have a MY2012 90) and was chatting to one of the guys from Great Divide Tours at the Rosehill Camping and Caravan Show yesterday about doing the tour. As most of you probably know, there are more than a few river crossings involved in the Victorian High Country. The guy mentioned that you have to get the diff breather tube extended. He wasn't being Landrover specific when he mentioned this but is something that Puma owners need to do when crossing water?
cheers
Andrew

No, they're pretty good as standard - taking them a little height in the engine bay to a filter plate is the icing on the cake, rather than a 'must do' for the high country.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I think that they've all had extended breathers factory fitted to the diffs since the mid 80s.

These, if clear, would help cope with this problem.

However, they can and do get blockedYes they have been but last I heard was that in the puma engine Defender, the fuel tank breather was in the rear wheel arch, not much above the 500mm mark, and the subject of a number of warranty issues.

There are no breather on the swivels.

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Yes they have been but last I heard was that in the puma engine Defender, the fuel tank breather was in the rear wheel arch, not much above the 500mm mark, and the subject of a number of warranty issues.

There are no breather on the swivels.

Yep - short tube off the top of the tank, easily visible just above the chassis rail though the wheel well, about 675mm off the ground, facing rearwards.

Where would you extend it to?

Nugget's kit extends it to be high on the engine bay firewall (I think), but maybe easier to bring it up inside the rear of the vehicle to window height?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Yep - short tube off the top of the tank, easily visible just above the chassis rail though the wheel well, about 675mm off the ground, facing rearwards.

Where would you extend it to?

Nugget's kit extends it to be high on the engine bay firewall (I think), but maybe easier to bring it up inside the rear of the vehicle to window height?Firstly I wouldn't have any sort of breather in a wheel well because there is too much water splashing around even when driving on a rainy day.

All the breathers should be as high as possible in a wagon the engine bay, in a ute or dual cab on the back wall of the cab (provided there isn't a canopy). They could even design a vent to exit in modified body capping.

I can only imagine the reason for the wheel arch idea was a bean counter wanting to save on 2m of plastic tube and the mountings for it per vehicle. (the actuaries calculated the risk of a major breakdown versus the vehicles sold and the dollar cost won over the engineer's designs).

[AndyG]

LR has actuaries AND Engineers:o:p

I always thought over 500 mm it's nuts got cold, fell off , and it becomes a Toyota :D

[scarry]

Yep - short tube off the top of the tank, easily visible just above the chassis rail though the wheel well, about 675mm off the ground, facing rearwards.

Where would you extend it to?

Nugget's kit extends it to be high on the engine bay firewall (I think), but maybe easier to bring it up inside the rear of the vehicle to window height?

Easy to run it and the rear diff breather up high into the rear of the vehicle,as said.The engine bay is a long way to go and could end up with a 'trap' in it which is not good.I prefer to run breathers directly up,not up and down which can cause 'traps'

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Pic below, unless I am mistaken it is the curved tube.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/151.jpg

[Sirocco]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/136.jpg

You lot worry WAY too much about these things, just get out, relax and enjoy.

If I had walked this I would have been swimming and washed down stream. Current was fast, hence no 'bow wave'. I have floated, bobbed and skipped the wheels a few times wading or fording rivers in the UK. Once you gain confidence with these things it becomes very enjoyable.

So where is the breather from the rear axle? The 300s terminate at the top of the A frame arms.

Dont stop extending them to under the bonnet, take them to the top of the snorkel to be safe.

G

[mools]

I don't think you'd be swimming in that mate, doesn't look much over 500mm to me. Does look like you are driving too fast through it though which is what it looks about three times it's actual depth.

Ian.

[AndyG]

What's a recommended fording speed, for say 400 mm I normally grab 1st in high with low-med revs (no tacko) Ina hilux?

And try to remain constant in transit

[noyakfat]

What's a recommended fording speed, for say 400 mm I normally grab 1st in high with low-med revs (no tacko) Ina hilux?

And try to remain constant in transit

As for an actual speed, I'd say the answer is totally subjective and different for every situation.

As you've hinted at, it's best as a general guideline to check the crossing route and depth first, then (prior to entering the water) select an appropriate gear and keep in the peak torque rev range. Keep an eye on what's going on with your "bow wave" and adjust your right foot accordingly.

[edit] : if you don't have a tacho', just use your ears

Cheers

[Sirocco]

I don't think you'd be swimming in that mate, doesn't look much over 500mm to me. Does look like you are driving too fast through it though which is what it looks about three times it's actual depth.

Ian.

Haha. Nice analysis from 1 photo. You're basically calling me a lier. It was 1m and fast flowing. Met office had issued flood warnings that weekend. If I had been driving any slower I would have stopped. This is low 2nd. The wave was caused by the current flow.

The 90 is also lifted on 255s so not particularly low.

Come back when you actually know what your talking about

[mools]

Year well I only had the one photo to go on, just sating what it looks like to me. Your getting way too wound up. As for the true depth, how would you know? You since you never walked it.

As for coming back when I know what I'm on about... Well I'm not the one advocating the "drive in and see" approach to a river crossing. That'll cost you in the end, maybe just a vehicle or maybe your life.

Take care.

Ian.

[vnx205]

What's a recommended fording speed, for say 400 mm I normally grab 1st in high with low-med revs (no tacko) Ina hilux?

And try to remain constant in transit


As for an actual speed, I'd say the answer is totally subjective and different for every situation.

As you've hinted at, it's best as a general guideline to check the crossing route and depth first, then (prior to entering the water) select an appropriate gear and keep in the peak torque rev range. Keep an eye on what's going on with your "bow wave" and adjust your right foot accordingly.

[edit] : if you don't have a tacho', just use your ears

Cheers

I don't claim to be an expert on water crossings, but I had been led to believe that a good rule of thumb was to use whatever speed was needed to create a useful sized bow wave. How big a bow wave is probably a matter of opinion.

There will be other factors sometime which will dictate a slightly slower or faster speed but that is a good starting point.

When my brother lived in Darwin, a lot of trips involved water crossings. His advice was that when you came to the first water crossing, the most important thing was to stop, light a fire, boil the billy and enjoy a cup of tea. :D

The theory was that by the time you had finished the cup of tea and extinguished the fire, hot parts of the vehicle, like diffs and brake discs had cooled a bit so that there was less chance of water being sucked in as the air inside the diff cooled.

[Sirocco]

Year well I only had the one photo to go on, just sating what it looks like to me. Your getting way too wound up. As for the true depth, how would you know? You since you never walked it.

As for coming back when I know what I'm on about... Well I'm not the one advocating the "drive in and see" approach to a river crossing. That'll cost you in the end, maybe just a vehicle or maybe your life.

Take care.

Ian.

There was a description with my photo. There are depth markers on most fords in the UK. When you have done it a jindred times ypu get to know depths well.

Use your commom sense to determine if the river is crossable. Depth is almost irrelevant. I have forded 5ft deep rivers with nearly no flow creating a good bow wave and having a smooth river bed.

On the same token I never forded the 1ft torrent that was only a 50m dash across a concrete bottom because the flow seemed to strong. That was in North Africa.

Just use your loaf

G

[Dopey]

royal marines land rover Picture 114 - YouTube (http://youtu.be/3cCx1QCK41U)

5 feet, that's pretty bloody deep.....
Maybe there might be a market for nugget/nugget stuff to design and manufacture extended breathers and manifolds for drivers and passengers if you're going that deep often?
Do any other defender drivers often go through 5 feet of water depth?
Of course Isuzu county owners wouldn't require such a device (extended breathers), they'd just utilise the beard device as an oxygen filter/rebreather.....

Regards,
Mike.

[noyakfat]

The theory was that by the time you had finished the cup of tea and extinguished the fire, hot parts of the vehicle, like diffs and brake discs had cooled a bit so that there was less chance of water being sucked in as the air inside the diff cooled.

Good advice, I reckon :)

[dullbird]

This is us at Nolands...for anyone interested its on the video below...around about the 14.Min mark I think....and before you go and tell us that we entered to fast blah blah
we actually didn't but the video gives the illusion that we had...we actually entered Nolands as slow as we could but got caught on a tree root on entry which made us drop in to the water as we navigated to get off it, the mud slide in also didnt help the guy that went before us went in WAY to fast and conked his vehicle out on entry!!!...
there is a few crossing on the video but Logans and Nolands are well over 500mm....There was one creek not on the video which was deep and was completely over the bonnet and washed up to the bottom of the windscreen briefly!! but that was because we were following Phil who had carefully navigated through first and then lost him and his radio wasn't on and we suddenly dropped in to an unexpected hole...we certainly would not of tackled out of option

The thing is doesn't matter how well you seal your vehicle its still a risk...we went to the cape and we excepted we could drown our car..we took the risk so will some wont.....you also have to except that if you do drown it you may not be covered simple as that.

I have not posted this to instigate an argument, this is at the cape and not all creeks can be bypassed to get through the telegraph track....I think a lot of people that go to the cape except the risks that they are putting on their vehicles, and it has to be expected that the majority of creeks are over 500mm :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/71.jpg

https://vimeo.com/home/myvideos

[Chops]

Karl,, water ingress and warranty issues are very real as you state.
My car goes into the dealer next week about some problems and consequent fixes, all warranty work.

One problem I have with the RAI/Snorkle which needs fixing, is there is a split in the cross over air box which I want fixed/replaced, and depending on how they are about it, I'll try to get Nuggets unit installed.
But,, during my phone discussion with the manager, I told him the main air filter box has had water in it.
The first thing he said/asked, was if I'd done some deep water crossings,,,, well, no actually, just muddy tracks.

So, as it stands at the moment, I'll be ready to fight my case when I roll up on Tuesday with the car. Ultimately, I expect they'll be trying to nail me with "deep water" in order to void warranty on their product/fitment. Theres been no damage to the motor, but its a very real realization of how close it could be with just a simple split.

So my advice to all, is to think carefully before you do something you cant afford to fix off your own bat.

[camel_landy]

As for an actual speed, I'd say the answer is totally subjective and different for every situation.

Correct, every situation will be different. A narrow channel of water will respond differently to a wide open stretch.

The trick is to get the bow-wave going and then adjust your speed to keep the top of the wave approx 1M in front of the car. A quick glance down the side, from time to time, to make sure the low point is roughly in-line with your front wheel is useful too.

M

[camel_landy]

Karl,, water ingress and warranty issues are very real as you state.
My car goes into the dealer next week about some problems and consequent fixes, all warranty work.

One problem I have with the RAI/Snorkle which needs fixing, is there is a split in the cross over air box which I want fixed/replaced, and depending on how they are about it, I'll try to get Nuggets unit installed.
But,, during my phone discussion with the manager, I told him the main air filter box has had water in it.
The first thing he said/asked, was if I'd done some deep water crossings,,,, well, no actually, just muddy tracks.

So, as it stands at the moment, I'll be ready to fight my case when I roll up on Tuesday with the car. Ultimately, I expect they'll be trying to nail me with "deep water" in order to void warranty on their product/fitment. Theres been no damage to the motor, but its a very real realization of how close it could be with just a simple split.

So my advice to all, is to think carefully before you do something you cant afford to fix off your own bat.
If that split is above 500mm and the cause for water ingress... you've been in beyond the recommended depth. It may well have not been prolonged use (i.e. fording) but it's still beyond the limit.

I'd expect the damaged hose to be replaced, as it is damaged but it could have been a different story if the engine took on water!!

M

[n plus one]

If that split is above 500mm and the cause for water ingress... you've been in beyond the recommended depth. It may well have not been prolonged use (i.e. fording) but it's still beyond the limit.

Unless there's a possibility that a couple of tonnes of LR can splash water around eh? :wasntme:

[FeatherWeightDriver]

The differential and transmission breathers in my MY14 (so I assume MY12 as well) are already up in the back of the engine bay.

Look for 3 black hoses with hockey stick ends about 10-15cm below the top of the engine block, level with the back of the block on the passenger side.

[simmo]

Hi Guys I haven't been on for a while and wading is interesting topic. I Agree with most of the guys here, I avoid fast flowing water, but depth is not so much worry in slow moving water, up to the door handles. Occasionally I have got lost in the river and gone off the track and gone deeper by accident and the water came over the bonnet up to the windscreen briefly. I'm happy up to 1 meter. my land rover tires/ wheels are 800mm in diameter, I think 800 mm is perfectly safe for any defender I have checked all my vents are secure up under the bonnet on the LHS firewall. I think the top of the mudgards on my car is over meter (2" lift). ( has snorkel fitted)
I never had a problem with water in the gearboxes, swivels axles etc. I used to regularly check them by draining a small amount of oil out of the bottom and then topping them up with fresh oil.
I did used to have problems with my wheel hubs getting water in, but I changed to better quality hub seals ( from the county I think 2 lips & garter springs) and filled the hubs with oil. That was about 10 years ago I don't think i ever changed a wheel bearing after that. Simmo 1995 Tdi wagon