Puma immobilised. problem solved (Blown fuse)

[POD]

I'm stuck in Warragul with a 2008 Defender that has the immobiliser activated and neither remote will do anything at all. Have tried entering the security code as per the owners manual, nothing. Have tried disconnecting and reconnecting the vehicle battery. Have phoned LR dealer, their solution was to have it towed to them. Hoping to avoid that. Any help would be much appreciated.

[Gerokent]

Are you near or underneath a service station patio or similar? I have heard stories of immobilised Pumas near service stations and then pushed away a distance then all ok.
(arn't electronics fun)
Good luck

[POD]

I'm among a group of shops, will have a walk around and see if there are any automatic doors. Having trouble seeing the fun in this at present, so far have twice waited out the half-hour delay between attempts to de-activate. Had much better plans for this afternoon.

[POD]

Bunnings very helpfully switched off both of their automatic doors for me, still no luck.

[Pickles2]

Massaro Motors, LONG established LR Dealers are down that way.
They may be able to assist?
Pickles.

[Chops]

Hey pete, just a thought, pull your battery from the remote and replace it. It may be right on the verge of being flat. Sometimes just moving them is enough to make them work.

[POD]

Massaros have got onto the LR database and given me a security code that is different to the one I have. No luck even with this code, may need to wait another half hour.

[POD]

Thanks Marcus, tried the remote battery too, got a fresh one from Bunnings but made no difference.
Got my daughter to come and pick me up, will head back to the car when my wife gets home. Feel a bit better after a bite of lunch. 4 hours in Bunnings car park is not my ideal day.
Bloke at Massaros who got the security code for me also gave me the radio security code- which is what I've been entering as the lock code....tried the correct code a few times with no success, perhaps too soon after my last attempt with the wrong code.
Realised after I got home that I should have disconnected the battery before leaving it, might help somehow, clutching at straws really. That was about the only suggestion the bloke at Trivett's (where the previous owner originally bought the vehicle) was able to make. They obviously knew absolutely nothing about the immobiliser system, didn't seem to know that such a thing as a 4-digit disarm code even existed.

[101RRS]

Get some help and push the vehicle to another spot and see how you go.

Garry

[V8Ian]

Are you close to a transformer or low hanging overhead power lines? I've heard of a Jaguar doing the same when the OHPL were lower than normal.

[dullbird]

Can you lock and unlock the car???

If you can unlock the car open the door, then shut the door and then lock it again and then leave the car for 30mins (to be safe) then unlock and try and start.

if you have left the car unlocked for a length of time they do have a habit of immobilising themselves...the more you try the more it locks the car out.

I had this happen to me had all the usual things done battery disconnect you name it had it towed to the dealer and the bloody thing started on the back of the flat bed at the other end and they drove it off......

This was on my driveway so there was no interference issues...we actaully ended up having the imobiliser replaced as it was too sensitive and kept doing it...never had an issue after that...

a number of people on this forum have had the same issues and I think the people that have, have all owned early defenders like yourself

the unlocking, locking process usually works so hopefully it will work for you (but I'm not sure whether entering a new code changes anything)


Im also assuming your not carrying your second Fob we also found if you have both fobs in the car they some how manage to cancel each other out and also immobilise the car...dont ask me how or why but it does

[POD]

It lives!! Thanks for the replies, unfortunately it was the Pommy Defender 2 forum that had the answer, a blown 20amp fuse under the driver's seat. Apparently there are 3 different fuses that affect the alarm / immobiliser system, I had checked the one under the steering wheel but all the while I was sitting on the problem. Went back just now and went straight to this fuse, sure enough- blown. Replaced it and the alarm started beeping, used the remote to lock & unlock and now the car is trying to pretend that nothing ever happened.
All's well that ends well.
When my wife got home this arvo, she asked how my day was. I started to tell her how unbelievably bad my day had been, then I remembered the day last year when my dad died. Kind of put things back in perspective.;)

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Great to hear you got it sorted, and thabks for letting us know what to look for :cool:

[dullbird]

I will change the title and move to the defender section so it can be searched a little easier by other members

[justinc]

It lives!! Thanks for the replies, unfortunately it was the Pommy Defender 2 forum that had the answer, a blown 20amp fuse under the driver's seat. Apparently there are 3 different fuses that affect the alarm / immobiliser system, I had checked the one under the steering wheel but all the while I was sitting on the problem. Went back just now and went straight to this fuse, sure enough- blown. Replaced it and the alarm started beeping, used the remote to lock & unlock and now the car is trying to pretend that nothing ever happened.
All's well that ends well.
When my wife got home this arvo, she asked how my day was. I started to tell her how unbelievably bad my day had been, then I remembered the day last year when my dad died. Kind of put things back in perspective.;)

Good to hear it is all go. The fuse under the seat will blow if the central lock actuator wires are pinched/cut where they go through the rubber conduit between the door and pillar
. Pretty common I have had 2 defenders do this. Jc

[n plus one]

Good to hear it is all go. The fuse under the seat will blow if the central lock actuator wires are pinched/cut where they go through the rubber conduit between the door and pillar
. Pretty common I have had 2 defenders do this. Jc

The rear door opening extension brackets often cause this - the wiring is shorter than the rubber tubing suggests - so everything looks fine but you've actually separated the wires within the tubing. Trick for young players!

[justinc]

The rear door opening extension brackets often cause this - the wiring is shorter than the rubber tubing suggests - so everything looks fine but you've actually separated the wires within the tubing. Trick for young players!

Correct! a good place to start when your CDL for either rear door isn't working, and if any of the front door electric windows cease to function check the corresponding door conduit for wire breakages.

JC

[POD]

Thanks for the info Justin, I had not yet got as far as trying to see why the fuse had blown.

[AndyG]

Can the immobilizer be disabled in the Computer.

In addition to the normal bayonet (?) fuses, should one carry the Mega fuses, and if so, what size?

cheers

[MArcher]

Just wanted to say thanks - this post was the final step I needed to resolve my ongoing immobiliser issue which has resulted in a towing and my Landy sitting on the side of the road like a paperweight for week.

I saw the fuse was blown, traced the wiring and both the back doors had been mended by the previous owner, but the fix had gone too.

As soon as I rewired, and replaced the fuse and heard the double beep I knew I was on a winner. Nice one.

Now to source a second fob...

Keep up the good work!

M

[POD]

Good to hear! And welcome.

[landoman]

Have the same problem as described in this thread
20amp fuse for central locking keeps blowing
checked wiring around door pillars as described and one came out in my hand ....it had separated inside the the passenger door

so ......I need to remove the door card to repair this
....I know how to get the window winder off by removing clip ....and the lift up door opener looks to have a retaining screw to remove it .......

.but

not sure how to remove the surround around the push down lock
....and also the pull handle on the door ...this looks like it has two prize off covers which might hide retaining screw ......don't want to start forcing screw drivers in until I know what I'm doing

suggestions appreciated

[POD]

Correct about the pull handle, the covers are hinged at the outer end and each hide a #3 philips screw.
The lock button surround is a bit of a pig, it's designed to be installed rather than removed. I don't know if there's an official method, but wriggling and prising it upward sort of works.

[landoman]

Correct about the pull handle, the covers are hinged at the outer end and each hide a #3 philips screw.
The lock button surround is a bit of a pig, it's designed to be installed rather than removed. I don't know if there's an official method, but wriggling and prising it upward sort of works.

Thanks for that