View Full Version : Swapping LHD - SWB series 3 chassis for a SWB series 2
reachjatt
6th May 2014, 12:04 PM
Hope I get some assistance. What are the any main differences those need consideration, when swapping LHD - SWB series 3 chassis for a SWB series 2 rebuild. i.e. engine, gearbox, steering, suspension, body tub mounts and chassis depth other fittings those of the series 2 i.e bulkhead fuel tank, exhaust system etc, etc.
JDNSW
6th May 2014, 03:04 PM
Not clear what you are swapping, but basically just about everything is a bolt on swap. There will be a few minor brackets or holes that need modifying, but nothing that should present any problems. 
The problems you are likely to encounter are more likely to be legal. The vehicle identity is that of the chassis. Where problems will arise is that if you fit a Series 3 chassis to a Series 2 body, the vehicle becomes a Series 3 and ADRs will require a number of features that the Series 2 body does not have, such as padded dash, flush hinges, outboard headlights, emission controls, steering lock etc. If you are fitting a Series 3 body to a Series 2 chassis - no problems.
Changing from LHD to RHD, (or vice-versa) the only significant differences in the chassis are the hole for the relay and the chassis mounts for the handbrake.
Other parts involved in changing LHD to RHD are steering assembly, parts of the linkage, brake and clutch pipes, wiring harness, and probably a few other bits I have missed.
John
gromit
6th May 2014, 04:10 PM
Here are some 109" dimensions. 
Chassis drawings - Series Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=66340)
Some info on Richards website thet may help if you look at SII, IIa & III chassis differences.
Series II (http://www.richardschassis.co.uk/series-chassis/series-ii.html)
There's probably more dimensions out there on the net somewhere.
Best of luck.
Colin
Lotz-A-Landies
6th May 2014, 04:18 PM
Assuming you are fitting a SWB into a SWB.
You will need a RHD steering box, the RHD hand brake mechanism possibly the RHS accellerator mechanism and the  (L&R) steering levers on the swivels of the front axle assembly but everything else should be bolt on.  Particularly if you use the SIIa firewall.  There will be a little more mucking around if you use the SIII firewall on the SIIa chassis.
As John says the vehicle will get the SIIa identity, however as the SIII body panels are later they will comply with the requirements for the earlier SIIa identity and age that your vehicle will acquire.
Did you know that lots of the SIII military chassis are ambidextrous?
Diana
reachjatt
6th May 2014, 09:57 PM
Thanks to everyone!! You guys have such a wealth of landy knowledge. I am stretching my thoughts and my search zone in a never ending quest to find better/original series chassis for my 1960 SWB rebuild.
 
Been looking at lot original chassis lately and can certainly say once which are too good, come for the average price of two landy’s. Other’s need more work than i can possibly deal with. So, thoughts are to resort to the option of getting something which is more effortlessly available. i.e. series III chassis rather than Series II or IIa.
 
Nav.
Lotz-A-Landies
7th May 2014, 07:49 AM
:o I thought you were going the other way.
Fitting a SIII chassis under a SII will provide a wealth of engineering issues as the SII bits like the headlamp position, dash and windscreen mounts will have to comply with 1970s ADR.  They don't.
If you want good chassis for a SII/SIIA head out to places like Horsham/Mildura etc the bodies are frequently shot but the chassis basically rot/rust free.
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