Land Rover Cargo Barrier

[DiscoFan]

I need some up to date info on cargo barriers for the D4 (most of the threads on this topic are quite old now).

Interested to hear from anyone with the genuine LR barrier in their D4. Pics of mounting method would be fantastic.

I'm after something that's functional, aesthetically pleasing, easy to install/remove and requires minimal modification to the interior trim.

If there is a better option to the LR barrier, what are they and how are they better?

Thanks.

[BSM]

If there is a better option to the LR barrier, what are they and how are they better?

Thanks.

I was going to get a cargo barrier about a year ago. Although they play a very important role in protecting the occupants in the case of a crash, I've always found them to be quite restrictive in terms of versatility of the load space, and they obscure rear vision.

The alternative that I came up with, and which I find completely acceptable for my needs is to use a cargo net to tie down the bulky load ( especially when going camping).

I purchased a small gorilla net (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/176628-cargo-net-d3-3.html#post1959970) and I created some rope loops on the tie down points. This allows me to clip (with carribeenas from Bunnings) the net either directly onto the tie down points or to use the loop extensions when the load is especially bulky. In essence I wrap and tie down the load in the rear of the car before closing the tailgate. It works really well as far as I'm concerned. Couple that with a roof rack and I don't see that I will need a cargo barrier.

[Epic pooh]

I have a milford barrier and am happy with it. It permits use of the cargo blind whilst installed. If installed properly, no tools removal in about 3 minutes, installation slightly longer at about 5 minutes.

Personally I actually only secure it at the bottom and have not installed the top straps, I always put in the cargo blind and the barrier is tight and firm like that and the top is hard up against the roof (no rattling or suchlike). I know this is not the recommended approach, but it works for me (when used it is only to keep bags of light things from flying around the boot as I carry heavy things in the van).

[SimmAus]

+1 for the Milford. It is a tight squeeze for the cargo blind.
In terms of installation holes - only 2 at the rear door cross member. When not using the barrier I simply keep the location screws in place.
The 2 lower ones use the tie downs / torx screws on floor.

[jon3950]

Milford are good and I have had a few of them over the years. However in the D4 I went for an Autosafe barrier. Its advantage over the Milford is that it doesn't require any holes in the trim so it can be removed completely without a trace.

The LR barrier doesn't comply with the Aust Std and wouldn't restrain much in an accident, which is why they call it a dog guard. The mounts are pretty flimsy - you can see them in the fitting instructions on Topix.

If you carry anything with a bit of weight in the back (like camping gear) I would suggest you buy a barrier that complies with the Std - Milford, Autosafe and Hayman Reese are the one's I know of.

Cheers,
Jon

[DiscoFan]

Thanks for all of the input. Sounds like I should give the LR one a miss.

[letherm]

+1 for the Milford. It is a tight squeeze for the cargo blind.
In terms of installation holes - only 2 at the rear door cross member. When not using the barrier I simply keep the location screws in place.
The 2 lower ones use the tie downs / torx screws on floor.

+1 for the Milford too. The cargo blind is a tight fit but I saw a thread here that mentioned getting longer top straps that push the top of the barrier slightly forward and take the pressure of the blind. I contacted Milford and was referred to a tech guy who posted me out a couple. I haven't put them on yet :angel: so can't definitively comment on that aspect but the original poster said that there was now no pressure on the blind and hence less chance of wear on the blind from the barrier rubbing against it.

I looked at the LR one too but discarded it as an option.

Martin

[AnD3rew]

I also have the Autosafe one, as Jon says there are no visible mounting holes and it can be easily removed in about 5-10 mins.

And yes if you want to carry anything heavier than a tissue box in any wagon you should have a cargo barrier. It is a pain if you want to use the rear seats or carry longer loads inside but it might save your life.

[mikeford]

I have a Milford barrier fitted to my D4 it only takes a few minutes to remove and a little bit longer to re-install. If you get one make sure they supply the longer top brackets so that you can easily still use your Cargo blind. I would never have gear in the back without a cargo barrier.

[discojohn]

I had the LR barrier installed about 12 months ago - works well and is contoured to the shape of the rear seats (I only have a 5 seater). Cargo blind works fine with it installed, although you have to loosen the barrier fittings to remove the cargo blind if loading up the cargo area for camping.
The barrier is rated to 60kg and has two unobtrusive attachments points either side, top and bottom. Also comes with a hammer attached to break the glass if you somehow became locked behind the barrier with the doors locked!
I think the other posters may have confused the cargo barrier with the dog barrier, which serves a different purpose and is not rated.
I wouldn't haven't any hesitation recommending the LR barrier - may just boil down to pricing, assuming the alternative versions fit as well (may need to check with the manufacturers that you can still use the cargo blind with them fitted).

[DiscoFan]

I had the LR barrier installed about 12 months ago - works well and is contoured to the shape of the rear seats (I only have a 5 seater). Cargo blind works fine with it installed, although you have to loosen the barrier fittings to remove the cargo blind if loading up the cargo area for camping.

The barrier is rated to 60kg and has two unobtrusive attachments points either side, top and bottom. Also comes with a hammer attached to break the glass if you somehow became locked behind the barrier with the doors locked!

I think the other posters may have confused the cargo barrier with the dog barrier, which serves a different purpose and is not rated.

I wouldn't haven't any hesitation recommending the LR barrier - may just boil down to pricing, assuming the alternative versions fit as well (may need to check with the manufacturers that you can still use the cargo blind with them fitted).


Thanks for that.

Do you have a part number for the cargo barrier? The dealer couldn't find one so made a phone call and was told the one I wanted was actually called the dog barrier.

Obviously not the case though. It definitely called a cargo barrier ok the LR website.

[discojohn]

I think the part number is RAA559. It cost $669 for the barrier + $400 to fit at Massaro Motors in Morwell.

[sniegy]

Now lets get things right.
There is the Dog Barrier VUB501170 which is not rated to Aust ADR's
There is the Cargo Barrier RAA559 which meets Aus ADR's & is made by Hayman Reece from memory.
There WAS an issue early on with the Dog Barrier from LR. (not with the part but availability)
It wasn't available until a couple of months ago. Early on you would order the Dog Guard & end up with a Cargo Barrier regardless. Even if you entered the LR Dog Guard into the parts listing it was not available to come to Australia.

NOW you can order either. :D

Cheers

[DiscoFan]

Thanks for clarifying Sniegy.

It's a pity the LR website still lists the "cargo barrier" as part number VUB501170, which makes things quite confusing. No mention of dog guard at all.

Great to know the part we're actually after is RAA559.

Thanks again.

[jon3950]

I had the LR barrier installed about 12 months ago - works well and is contoured to the shape of the rear seats (I only have a 5 seater). Cargo blind works fine with it installed, although you have to loosen the barrier fittings to remove the cargo blind if loading up the cargo area for camping.
The barrier is rated to 60kg and has two unobtrusive attachments points either side, top and bottom. Also comes with a hammer attached to break the glass if you somehow became locked behind the barrier with the doors locked!
I think the other posters may have confused the cargo barrier with the dog barrier, which serves a different purpose and is not rated.
I wouldn't haven't any hesitation recommending the LR barrier - may just boil down to pricing, assuming the alternative versions fit as well (may need to check with the manufacturers that you can still use the cargo blind with them fitted).

You're quite right.

I was referring to the dog guard as I thought the RAA559 was no longer available - at least that was what I was told when I tried to order one with my D4 last year. Knowing my dealer it doesn't surprise me they were wrong.

I had the RAA559 fitted to my D3. It was made by Hayman Reese and it is identical to the Milford. It is as good as the others and was in fact the Hayman Reese one I referred to in my previous post.

If that is still available, I can recommend it too. However I still prefer the Autosafe as it doesn't require any holes in the trim.

Cheers,
Jon

[rocmic]

Hi All,
Slightly off topic, but are there any cargo barriers for the D3/4 which are two position, ie they can be moved from behind the second row seats to behind the first row (id you need more load area)?
Thanks
Mike

[SimmAus]

Hi All, Slightly off topic, but are there any cargo barriers for the D3/4 which are two position, ie they can be moved from behind the second row seats to behind the first row (id you need more load area)? Thanks Mike
AKAIK - No. When I researched was advised that the curtain airbags prevent moving a barrier to behind first row seats.

[stray dingo]

+1 for Autosafe.
I also had mine made with mesh only on the top half. The bottom half is open allowing the seats to be still folded down and longer items stuck through.

[JamesH]

I'm looking for a cargo barrier for my 2012 D4. Noted the Auotosafe and Milford ones but I'm looking at the "official" LR one. They use the term "cargo barrier" on the website and give the part number that Sniegy said was a "dog barrier". It look pretty substantial. Perhaps I should ask my dealer and be clear what it is I am after.

I know LR products aren't always the best and are always the most expensive but I have trust issues with installers going to town on my interior if I don't at least have a recommendation. Has anyone in Perth had a barrier fitted to their satisfaction?

I would like to be able to remove it and use the cargo blind most if the time.

[ADMIRAL]

Hi James I have the Milford cargo barrier. It is the same model used for the D3 and D4. I understand Hayman Reese were making a cargo barrier for LR, and this was the 'official , barrier. I don't think it is available anymore. no data on it.

The Milford cargo barrier is not difficult to install. The overhead mounts require some careful drilling into the rearmost panel where the interior light is located. Any competent installer should be able to put the barrier in. If you are handy with tools, you can do it yourself.

Once the mounts are in, it is probably only a few minute job to get the barrier in and out, but you may need a hand to manhandle the barrier out without scratching up the plastics.

[TerryO]

+1 for Autosafe.
I also had mine made with mesh only on the top half. The bottom half is open allowing the seats to be still folded down and longer items stuck through.

Plus given that its common for the tailgate to fail to open when the latch wears as it gets older it is a good idea to be able to have a crawl through area in the lower part of the barrier just in case.
Otherwise if you have a fully meshed barrier fitted and your out camping and the tail gate fails and all your gear is in the back then your stuffed.

[cjc_td5]

+1 for Autosafe.
I also had mine made with mesh only on the top half. The bottom half is open allowing the seats to be still folded down and longer items stuck through.

Hey Stray Dingo, does your half height cargo barrier have a frame to mount it to the floor or are the lower mounts at top-of-seat height? Could you post a picture of it installed?

Thanks

[landroverguy]

If there is a better option to the LR barrier, what are they and how are they better?

Thanks.

Check out the Travall cargo barriers:

www.travall.com.au (http://www.travall.com.au)

They are the best ones one the market right now. Although the shipping to Australia is quite expensive.

[DiscoFan]

Check out the Travall cargo barriers:

www.travall.com.au (http://www.travall.com.au)

They are the best ones one the market right now. Although the shipping to Australia is quite expensive.


Do these meet Australian standards? Look quite good. Shipping $68 to Australia looking at the website.

[rufusking]

Do these meet Australian standards? Look quite good. Shipping $68 to Australia looking at the website.



The applicable standards are AS/NZS4034.1&2:2008 so if it's coming from overseas it's unlikely (unless it's NZ). Standard rated cargo barriers are pitched towards workplace vehicles so that the employer is deemed to have taken reasonable measures to protect their employee and appease their insurers. By the standard they only need to meet "...60kg impacts at a force equivalent to that experienced in a 48kmh frontal crash..." so watch your speed and weight of objects in the rear. Satisfy yourself that what you intend to fit meets your requirements.

[DiscoFan]

Does anyone have photos of an Autosafe barrier installed in their vehicle.

Both wide shots and closeups of the mounting locations? My father in law has just fitted one (mesh on top only) to his WK2 Jeep and it looks great.

[rocmic]

Do these meet Australian standards? Look quite good. Shipping $68 to Australia looking at the website.
Looking at the web site, while they call them cargo barriers, the description, fitting instructions, FAQs all refer to them as dog barriers. No indication of any standards (even British) that they may adhere to.
Possibly dodgy to use as a cargo barrier.
Cheers
Mike

[MartyJB]

I've installed the LR "dog guard" it is sold in Europe as a cargo barrier as I understand it, but doesn't meet AS. It's very easy to install and bolts in/under all existing bolts. I agree with rufusking in regard to its purpose - I only use it for my annual camping trip and stack relatively light stuff against it. Additionally everything is packed in tight so nothing can move - it doesn't need to take a 60kg impact at 48km/hr. Anyway it suits my purpose, I'm happy with it.

[landroverguy]

Looking at the web site, while they call them cargo barriers, the description, fitting instructions, FAQs all refer to them as dog barriers. No indication of any standards (even British) that they may adhere to.
Possibly dodgy to use as a cargo barrier.
Cheers
Mike

I think the way how you actually call the product doesn't necessarily describe how it can be used. There is no doubt that it can be used as a dog barrier as well.
For example here is a video that shows a cargo crush test for Travall barrier - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlUGU8IllGA

[bremund]

Here's the install instructions for the Milford

http://www.milford-auto.com/fitting_instructions/706975.pdf

[dukemasterpro]

Hi all does anyone have fitting instructions for the Autosafe barrier? Just need to see the level of difficultly in fitting the support bars that go under the roof trim...rest is easy having removed twice on the old D4 when the boot latch stuck.

[jon3950]

Don't have the instructions anymore, but its pretty simple. You just have to pull off the trim, drill out two existing holes then feed a captive nut on a stick up through another existing hole to line up with the enlarged holes, then bolt the arms on.

Cheers,
Jon

[Russrobe]

Can anyone describe the difference between the LR dog barrier and cargo barrier please?
I'm about to go buy what is meant to be a LR Discovery 3/4 cargo barrier 2nd hand and just need to make sure I don't end up with the dog barrier. Or else my 80kg dog will probably end up going straight through it...

Trying to google search but it's showing up all kinds barriers. What I thought would be the cargo barrier is showing up under dog guard and with all the confusion over part numbers it seems impossible to distinguish what's what.
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=land+rover+dog+barrier&rlz=1C1CHFX_enAU685AU685&espv=2&biw=1745&bih=883&tbm=isch&imgil=Mq1mv4qSx2kY6M%253A%253Bc46lFnxcpKYPYM%253Bh ttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.travall.com.au%25252F land-rover%25252Fdog-guard&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Mq1mv4qSx2kY6M%253A%252Cc46lFnxcpKYPYM%252C_&usg=___0iM63OLdsyi26Ia9w8UNGaXcKw%3D&ved=0ahUKEwiC0pqvg7HMAhVC_mMKHSRlChAQyjcIMg&ei=xdghV8LbCsL8jwOkyqmAAQ#tbm=isch&q=land+rover+dog+barrier+discovery+4&imgrc=KZ84uN7JcD--0M%3A

Also is the D3's the same as the D4's?? Because the ads claiming they are...

Cheers

[LandyAndy]

Anything from the UK is just a dog barrier,ok if you are into toy breeds,wont hold a real dog in a prang.
The aussie ones are cargo barriers and must meet ADR rules.
Look up Milford,they are a reputed Aussie manufacturer.Theirs are strong,they will act like a roll bar in a roll over.Im sure they have pics on their website.
There are harnesses where you can strap fido safely into a chair,look into them as you have a 7 seater??? Fido can live outback on a leather chair and be safe in event of another roo strike and not become a missile in the cab injuringhimself on the cargo barrier.Could be a cheaper way too;););););)
Andrew

[Russrobe]

I like your thinking Andy but he's a slobery giant, close to 6 feet long. Can't get him into the back seats even at access height or past them if they're folded up lol. He will only fit in the back. I found a LR one for $300 up the road from me! Just called and they seem to know the difference between the two so should be ok...

It's mostly to keep the slobber off the back seats and contained to the rubber mat more than anything else as there's no way he could possibly fit past the seats anyway!

[Nicky]

Can anyone describe the difference between the LR dog barrier and cargo barrier please?
I'm about to go buy what is meant to be a LR Discovery 3/4 cargo barrier 2nd hand and just need to make sure I don't end up with the dog barrier. Or else my 80kg dog will probably end up going straight through it...

Trying to google search but it's showing up all kinds barriers. What I thought would be the cargo barrier is showing up under dog guard and with all the confusion over part numbers it seems impossible to distinguish what's what.
[url]https://www.google.com.au/search?
Cheers

Don't worry, the LR dog guard is really good and easy to install, no drilling!
And if you look at the design, even my 2 45kg German Shepherds would never get through in a panic stop. Works well as a cargo barrier.

[Stuart02]

IIRC the LR Cargo Barriers were rebranded Hayman Reece? The dog barriers aren't rated but they're made out of similar gauge/diameter materials as the CGs so are far from flimsy.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[theyabbyman]

Autosafe Cargo Barrier Instructions attached if anyone needs them still.


MAKE: Land Rover
MODEL: Discovery Series 3
TYPE: Wagon
YEARS OF MANUFACTURE: 04/2005-09/2009
PART NUMBER: CBRDIS3
POSITION: Behind the second row of seats.

KIT:



2- 525mm Straight Brackets
2- 150mm Bent Brackets
2-275 Straight Brackets
2- 29 Z Brackets
10- M10x20mm Set Screws
8- M10 Whiz Nuts
2- Plates on Wire
2- M8x25mm Bolts
2- M8x20mm Washers




Your kit was packed by: ________________________



PLACE THE CARGO BARRIER IN THE VEHICLE WITH THE MESH TO THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE.

ALLWAYS CHECK FOR FUEL LINES ETC BEFORE DRILLING AND ALWAYS USE A DRILL STOP.

TOP: (See Image). Remove the plastic trim above the tailgate. Locate the two trim plugs at 400mm centres. Remove these two trim plugs and drill the existing trim plug holes out to 10mm. Secure the 150mm bent bracket into the holes that you have just drilled out using an M10x20mm set screw and tighten into the plate on wire which needs to be inserted into the cavity through the nearby holes beside the mounting holes. Then you can either cut off the wire from the plate that is protruding out or otherwise fold it so it sits in between the 2 skins. Then replace the plastic trim. Attach one end of the 525mm straight bracket to the end of the 150mm bent bracket (protruding out between headlining and plastic trim), using an M10x20mm set screw and an M10 whiz nut. Secure other end of the 525mm straight bracket to the top tag on the Cargo Barrier using an M10x20mm set screw and an M10 whiz nut.

BASE: Locate the two luggage tie down points closest to the Cargo Barrier (beside the wheel arch). Remove the two tie down points and secure a 29 Z bracket into the M8 captive using an M8x25mm bolt and an M8x20mm washer. Secure one end of the 275mm straight bracket to the 29 Z bracket using an M10x20mm set screw and an M10 whiz nut. Secure the other end of the 275mm straight bracket to the base tag on the Cargo Barrier using an M10x20mm set screw and an M10 whiz nut.

CHECK OVER FIXINGS SYSTEMATICALY TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE ALL TIGHT.

[SeanC]

I have just installed an autosafe half mesh cargo barrier with my rear drawers. Looks a quality product. Was an easy installation except for locating the screws into to the plates attached to wires. Did no one else have issues with this?

[theyabbyman]

Yep. That wasn't easy - a small torch (and your wife or son) helps, which you shine in from one of the other access points.

Also, it's not easy to locate where the trim plug drill point is - Make sure the 150mm bent bracket extends 30 to 40mm beyond the plastic trim, then your have to pull the trim plug out, cut through the trim and drill out to 10mm.

[ScottLS]

I just obtained an Autosafe cargo barrier as a used item. Thanks to theyabbyman I have the install instructions, BUT not the 'plates on wire'. I tried to install the brackets above the rear door but it is impossible to hold a standard M10 nut behind the bodywork while inserting the bolt and bracket. Can anyone suggest a way to do that? Or provide some details of what 'plates on wire' is? I considered a nutsert but I'm sure a bolt is required for strength. Thanks!

[loanrangie]

I welded a nut to a plate and tech screwed that in place, like a crude rivnut alternative.

[Jeffoir]

It is called a captive nut.
I will post a photo of the part on Sunday.
best. Jeffoir.

[ScottLS]

I managed to get the Autosafe barrier installed today. I wrapped an M10 'whiz' nut with thin coat hanger wire very tightly (twisted on with pliers) and managed to guide the nut over the required hole, with the bracket taped to the head lining, and carefully started the bolt through the bracket, head lining, body sheet metal and finally into the 'tethered' nut. To my surprise this worked and I was able to tighten the bolt down and wiggle the wire off the bolt.

Thanks for the replies. I'm very happy with the result. I have Tuffant wheels piled into the back ready for fresh rubber tomorrow.

Two tips. 1. Do the final tightening of the barrier with the 2nd row seats up (else you may find the barrier prevents the seat back locking up). 2. You can retain the 2 forward tie downs and original bolts where the lower supports bolt to the floor - just cut off the small tab that orients the tie down and install the bracket under the tie down.

[Sandy]

I managed to get the Autosafe barrier installed today. I wrapped an M10 'whiz' nut with thin coat hanger wire very tightly (twisted on with pliers) and managed to guide the nut over the required hole, with the bracket taped to the head lining, and carefully started the bolt through the bracket, head lining, body sheet metal and finally into the 'tethered' nut. To my surprise this worked and I was able to tighten the bolt down and wiggle the wire off the bolt.

Thanks for the replies. I'm very happy with the result. I have Tuffant wheels piled into the back ready for fresh rubber tomorrow.

Two tips. 1. Do the final tightening of the barrier with the 2nd row seats up (else you may find the barrier prevents the seat back locking up). 2. You can retain the 2 forward tie downs and original bolts where the lower supports bolt to the floor - just cut off the small tab that orients the tie down and install the bracket under the tie down.

Scott, I am interested in the Auto safe barrier. Does the frame below the barrier extend vertically to the floor or does it follow the angle of the rear seats?

[ScottLS]

Scott, I am interested in the Auto safe barrier. Does the frame below the barrier extend vertically to the floor or does it follow the angle of the rear seats?
It follows the angle of the seats quite closely. I adjusted the fore/aft position of the frame with the seats up and the frame touching the back of the seats. Here are some pics.
179727179723179726179725179724

[Sandy]

It follows the angle of the seats quite closely. I adjusted the fore/aft position of the frame with the seats up and the frame touching the back of the seats. Here are some pics.
179727179723179726179725179724

Thanks very much for the photos Scott. Really good to get some visual aids