View Full Version : Need some information re Series 1
Dinty
12th May 2014, 05:29 PM
It would appear that I have a bonnet for a Series 1 88", my S1 is 86".
I had asked the question ? over in the Series 1 forum, could I use this bonnet on my 86", and I have now come to the realization that it is not possible to use this bonnet at all.
This afternoon, I rough fitted the rhs inner guard and took this image
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2677_zpsf857e4c0.jpg
the bonnet latches are supposed to be almost in line, these certainly are not, I'm reasonably sure that I have the correct 86" guards.
The bonnet overhangs the rad/sup panel by a fair bit as well, which russelrovers told me about
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2678_zps39ca1850.jpg
I thought I could live with that but not now seeing how far out of alignment the bonnet latches/catches etc are,  the bonnet that I have is 950mm from front to rear measured through the midline of the bonnet, I guess I should have taken more measurements for reference, damn confusing when you didn't take it all apart, or see what was and what wasn't from the start anyway cheers Dennis
Landy Smurf
12th May 2014, 06:18 PM
from memory there was a few inches different between s1 86-88
123rover50
12th May 2014, 06:18 PM
So whats the question?
wrinklearthur
12th May 2014, 07:46 PM
Dennis, can you measure the distance that the holes in the bonnet are further forward than the mudguards?
If they are out by only one inch, then rework the back of the bonnet to the same length as the 86" which is one inch shorter over all, then fit the hinges from a 86", they are also that one inch shorter from the hinge pin to the back two bolts.
I won't tell any one!!!!! :twisted:  I got caught with trying to fit a 88" bonnet onto 'HECter'  which is also a 86" :angel: ended up with the correct bonnet but the frame under it is rusty.
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wrinklearthur
12th May 2014, 07:57 PM
There is a couple more differences between the bonnets, 
the bonnet stay is in a different place, 
there is a horn bracket that hangs of the bolts for the LHS hinge on the 88",
 and the rubber pads for the spare wheel are arranged diagonally on a 88" when the 86" has the pads arranged in a cross shaped pattern. 
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Dinty
16th May 2014, 06:29 PM
Well, I managed to get all the items I required, so I now have the correct bonnet for my 86"
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2696_zps5ba2bead.jpg
it looks like it's been there forever LOL, and no overhanging bits
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
also picked some other items that I was missing and this rear PTO unit
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
quite an enjoyable day, cheers Dennis
ps I have already removed the spare wheel item off the bonnet, now thinking on how far to strip it down, as it's not showing any signs of electrolysis,,.
wrinklearthur
16th May 2014, 08:23 PM
Wow! The belt pulley as well.
How many buckets of apples that set you back?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
About a 1956 bonnet, as the wheel pads are diagonally arranged.
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Dinty
17th May 2014, 04:02 PM
Quite a few LOL, I had soaked the splines in penetrene, managed to get the belt pulley off, but the input drive flange is proving difficult, I have warmed it up and soaked it in penetrene again, hopefully overnight it might do the trick, cheers Dennis
russellrovers
17th May 2014, 06:27 PM
Quite a few LOL, I had soaked the splines in penetrene, managed to get the belt pulley off, but the input drive flange is proving difficult, I have warmed it up and soaked it in penetrene again, hopefully overnight it might do the trick, cheers Dennis
hi denis a old tip make a wood fire outside and warm it slowley   in oil   in a drum and then have your socket ready regards jim
Dinty
17th May 2014, 06:43 PM
Jim, I have removed the split pin & castellated nut, what is proving to be difficult is getting the flange off the spline, cheers Dennis
Alex 110
17th May 2014, 06:56 PM
FYI from 80" to 86" the extra length was behind the firewall, from 86-88 added 2 inches in front of the firewall to fit the new motor.
You probably knew that already
Cheers,
Alex
Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app
Dinty
18th May 2014, 05:05 PM
This afternoon after doing a short run to Wangi, to see almost 30 ex mil vehicles on display, I came home determined to remove the input flange from the PTO, I found my puller and put it to work
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
and with help from the good wife, she put her foot on the PTO to stop me lifting it when trying to turn the bolt, anyway it did finally let go with a loud BANG, it scared the good wife LOL
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
the input flange will need some elbow grease to clean it up, anyway just waiting now for the penetrene to soak into where the elbow for the drum bolts onto the face of the PTO, cheers Dennis
wrinklearthur
18th May 2014, 06:21 PM
------  https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
the input flange will need some elbow grease to clean it up, ---- 
I have good results by using this MolyKote P37 antiseize product on cleaned up splines such as that one you removed the flange from.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/644.jpg
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