Fitting a LT95 transfercase to a 700r4 trans

[De Ranged]

Gidday
I have gotten some good information from this site and was wondering if you would like some tech back
This is something I am working on doing to my toy at the moment
Divorcing an LT95 transfercase from an old RRC 4 speed and matting it up to a TH 700r4 automatic from a holden commodore

let me know if its relevant and wanted

Cheers Reece

[loanrangie]

A few companines in AUS cut the LT95 down and adapted both the BW35 and Ford C9 auto before the TF727 was factory fitted.

[303gunner]

Divorcing an LT95 transfercase from an old RRC 4 speed and matting it up to a TH 700r4 automatic from a holden commodore

let me know if its relevant and wanted

Cheers Reece
*opens Popcorn and subscribes*


:ttiwwp:

[De Ranged]

In my case the reason I started with it was because I had a couple spare and they were worth just scrap weight and I knew they were strong
The first bonus was discovering low ratio is 1:3.3206 when compared to the Isuzu Bighorn transfer case which is the normal budget conversion onto the 700 trans as the output splines are a match, it only has a low ratio of 1;2.28
Next bonus is with a bit of machining you can turn a spare diff lock dog clutch into a dog clutch for a PTO

Now I haven't finished it yet and to be honest I have a concern about the minor shaft dia after shortening the output spline on the 700 trans (this has been done due to length being more important and will explain more when I get to that point)

There are a couple of issues....
First I found out online that the LT230 (since the Lt95 case was the what they based this off.. think this applies) won't allow the front drive shaft to fit past the sump on the 700 trans.... found this very funny as someone who has gone to the trouble to join these cant work out a two piece drive shaft solves this lol
Divorcing the LT95 from the gearbox means the main shaft has to be cut and a spline cut in it... this is semi specialized stuff, I have a home baked system that while not perfect works well, will post up some pics later
And one annoying issue the LT95 cases seem to be the worst alloy I have ever tried to weld

Now a few things that dictate a few of my choices
I have drive line length issues (want to fit the motor behind the front axle) so I have made some choices right or wrong based on this
I also want a flat bottom so I will be clocking the transfer case up so its lowest point is level with the trans pan
I have a character flaw in that I hate to part with money, this does impact on decisions alot lol

[350RRC]

A few companines in AUS cut the LT95 down and adapted both the BW35 and Ford C9 auto before the TF727 was factory fitted.

I have the C9 version, beautifully engineered by Ritters.

The output shaft on the auto is modded, runs through a short adapter case onto the LT95 TC shaft. Everything in stock mounting position.

Wouldn't like to attempt it from scratch! Look forward to seeing a T400 version.

DL

[De Ranged]

First off I attacked the LT box.... there is a nice solid separating wall in between the transfer case and the gearbox on these

I was lazy and just pulled the counter gears shift linkages etc and then cut the excess box off, left the main shaft and reverse shaft in place
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/681.jpg

The idea being the main shaft kept any Carborundum from the cutting disks out of the bearings and reverse shaft keeps the stuff out of the transfer case
Here's a pic of the cut line
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/682.jpg

With the case fully stripped mounted it up in the mill and leveled off a mounting face
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/683.jpg
Note I've left the area around the main bearing this is so I can come back a later date when I know my seal size and machine a seat for the seal
The plan was to cut some filler bits of Alloy and weld them into the "hollows" in the case then machine again for a smooth surface that I could bolt an adapter housing to.... but this idea is on hold due to an attempt at welding turning to custard due to the weld pulling so much impurities from the casting that the weld had no strength
I have the option of playing with the settings on the miller and running cleaning runs to draw the crap, then remove, repeat till I have something good to weld to (something I've never had to do before lol) or I redesign how I attach the two together.... decided to carry on with other bits and decide later lol still haven't made my mind up on this
Will explain my answer to bearing strength and the crap roller bearing on the case end of the main shaft with the next bit

[De Ranged]

I have the C9 version, beautifully engineered by Ritters.

The output shaft on the auto is modded, runs through a short adapter case onto the LT95 TC shaft. Everything in stock mounting position.

Wouldn't like to attempt it from scratch! Look forward to seeing a T400 version.

DL

I have some Siii chassis left in stock position but seats and everything above this is getting modded anyway so thats not a concern
Me I just like the challenge, and the gearing and PTO lol they are worth the problems... and I have found if you break things down to little problems and focus on each all it takes is time

[Blknight.aus]

ID have thought the lt230 would have beena simpler prpositions.

[123rover50]

When I first built the 6x6 camper I had a Ritters conversion for the LT95 T,box onto a turbo 700 and put it behind the Chev 6.2 diesel.
The 700 couldnt cope so put it behind an L480E or somesuch. Couldnt keep it cool. Sold it off and made my own putting the Lt95 t,box behind the Isuzu MSA behind the Chev V8.
Best thing I ever did:D

[Vern]

I used to have two LT95 to T700 conversions, they were a good conversion done by Rovercentre in Skye Victoria. I had one behind a Holden v8 striker, then to be swapped out for a 6.5l chev diesel. And one behind a gen3 project 110 that I never finished.

[De Ranged]

When I was searching the net for details I got zip on the LT95
Got a few strikes for LT230 one in Aus that had been done but not documented at the end of the build, might have even been this site (memory isn't flash and was a while ago)
Just about all the comments from the American sites went on about how it was impossible due the 700 sump being to wide and not leaving enough room for the drive shaft lol Interesting to find out they were professionally done in Aus

Any chance any of those that still have them could take a pic of the setup


ID have thought the lt230 would have beena simpler prpositions.
Lol yes it would have, I even bid on one locally on our version of ebay, but I'm way to cheap to pay over $800 for a transfercase!
I had the LT95's sitting there and they are plenty strong enough for an old V6 commy lol, and at this stage the conversion has cost me $35 for a second hand cutter to cut the spines for the PTO dog clutch lol still have to sort the adapter housing between the case and the trans tho

Sorry was going to post the PTO but got an open home today and getting in trouble for not cleaning lol

[De Ranged]

I know this isn't the PTO bearing carrier.... but it is what I'm working on at the moment
Joining one shaft to another

I'll start with the transmission shaft, due to this coming from a RWD car (vp Commy) the output shaft is longer than I wanted so I decided to shorten it as much as I could... this has ment cutting a new spline on the shaft

Over the yrs I've worked out an easy (but slow) way of doing this on a minimal budget machine tools wise
I use a cheap Mill/drill and grind them in, here is the trans shaft getting the roughing cuts
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/416.jpg

I have made up a tool holder that holds a standard 1mm 5" cutting disk I use these to rough out the splines and another to hold a 6" aluminium oxide disk that is profiled to the shape of the spline using a dressing diamond

Here is a shot of the final shaft next door to a spare shaft that I've done a roughing pass on
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/417.jpg

You'll see a collar on the end of it... unfortunately I'm unable to cut female splines (internal) so I cheat and source these from junk parts in this case a drive flange from a blown hilux diff it happened to be 0.2mm smaller than the major dia so all I did was lathe it down after I'd cut the splines
As for indexing I was lucky and the original output spline and the hilux spline were the same count so I just indexed off the original output spline

The LT95 shaft had a couple of issues
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/418.jpg

I need to keep the section on the right of the selector gear, the twink pen mark is where the case seal sits so the spline will be to the left of this... that ment to fit the grinding disks the fixed gear had to go
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/419.jpg

Next issue is it is a very large shaft.... after trying a car wreckers and a light commercial wreckers without any joy I ended up pulling an old toyota hilux automatic transfercase apart and found a splined selector gear that is only 2mm smaller dia than the shaft as a bonus tho the spline profile is the same as the smaller spline on the trans shaft
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/420.jpg

Machined the female spline down to a collar that I can sweat and weld into a machined bit of hollow bar joining both collars
The male spline is hacked out and using the oil gallery in the center of it and the LT95 shaft a piece of machined rod is used to hold the male spline to the shaft while I welded it in place... so I can use this as an index for cutting the splines (tomorrow nights job lol)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/421.jpg

oh and this is on the end of the shaft I'm going to cut off after I have cut the spline

[joel0407]

That's impressive.:BigThumb:

Happy Days

[87County]

That's impressive.:BigThumb:

Happy Days

X 2 !

[steveG]

I love to see the problem solving happening in this sort of work.
Keep it coming :)

Steve

[isuzutoo-eh]

Seems you're channeling Wagoo here...what's next, SWB 6x6 with portals and twin transfers, all home made of course?

Well done on your work thus far

[De Ranged]

Thank you for the comments


Seems you're channeling Wagoo here...what's next, SWB 6x6 with portals and twin transfers, all home made of course?

Well done on your work thus far

Wagoo? don't know that one
Arghh I'll leave the 6x6 to Bill lol the portals hmmm shame they arn't legal for comp here.... and yes I am collecting parts incase I decide to make some.... twin transfers blaa, try 200 to 1 reduction with twin gearbox's done that lol working on a stronger version with PTO for a winch

Right here is the old LT95 shaft getting the final shaping using the Aluminium Oxide disks.... you can see the shape I have profiled it with
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/322.jpg

As you can see its simple mounting nothing fancy needed, even the indexing setup is from the scrap bin lol
and here is the shaft cut down to size with the collar
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/323.jpg

Now all I have to do is mount up the transfer case housing and machine a seat for a seal so I can separate the transmission from the transfer case
with that done I sort how I join the cases

this is still a bit up in the air, toying with an adapter that is bolted onto the transfer case from inside it using counter sunk cap screws then bolts to the back of the trans hmmmm

[De Ranged]

Wagoo? don't know that one

LOL just worked it out, Wagoo is Bills user name on this site, built wildthing.... thank you thats a complement

[De Ranged]

Been working on the "sandwich housing" that joins the two cases, needed a good surface to bolt up to on the Rangie transfer case
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/109.jpg

While I was at it I cut the seat for the transfer case input seal
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/110.jpg

The end result
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/111.jpg

It has two levels I know but I had to machine the lower bit down due to a casting hollow... not good to have a hollow under the bolt thats sposed to clamp the two pieces
With the face ready I made the plate to match, and faced it true on the mill, all the bolts coming through from inside the transfer case are counter sunk or recessed.... that was a bit of fun, as I wasn't able to get a counter sink bit in there so all of them had to be cut in with a die grinder by hand, a real slow process of rough out, high point with blueing ink, cut high points, blue etc till it was close then using a long bolt that I ground a couple of cuts into the head and a drill on the thread pulling it through polish the counter sink
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/112.jpg

The trans end was just a case of trim and machine up a bit of 25mm plate
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/113.jpg

Now its a case of getting the joiner sheaved and sitting the two cases in line so I can work out how to join the two plates that are bolted up
I also installed the shortened shaft in the trans as you can see from the pic above.... I'm not going to bother with pic's and how I did that... my recommendation is don't go into one of these with out a good manual that is specific to that model trans lol they can be very frustrating to get back together! lol

May get this all joined up this week.... will depend on how hard I have to work on a mates truck to get him to a comp this weekend lol

[123rover50]

Nice work.
Im pretty sure when I did mine those years ago I put flat washers under the bolt heads in the T,case to spread the load. I didnt think they were close enough to anything to warrant countersinking.

[De Ranged]

The casings are really thick so I did it as a mater of caution, the reality is there is only one that needed it and its in the oil splash catcher slot for the intermediate shaft and is very near where the teardrop washer keys in

Been a bit distracted with helping a mate get ready for a comp lol but hopefully will get some more time in the shed this weekend

[De Ranged]

Not too much progress other than the cone that will join these two together
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1447.jpg

Started out with a bit of offcut pipe that had a wall thickness of 10mm, cut a "V" in one side and belted the crap out of it with a hammer till I got the small ends to touch
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1448.jpg

With the small end welded it was time to form the cone, a little bit of fix'ing to hold it while I beat down the bit that crossed over
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1449.jpg

and a couple of good shots with the sledge
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1450.jpg

Trim it off and weld and we have a 10mm wall cone
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1451.jpg

When I have the cases lined up on the splines I'll machine this true to the case faces and weld in

[350 range rover]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1380.jpg

[350 range rover]

Lt 95 to t700

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1380.jpg

[De Ranged]

That is real interesting they have bolted it on to the trans from the transfer case end (no bolts exposed on the end of the trans)
and they machined the transfer case further out hmmmm the case almost looks different to what I have just some of the casting marks....

This sort of makes me a wee bit concerned... I've struck some drama with the center diff on mine, it is an early LSD one, unfortunately some muppet in the past "improved" it by removing part of the clutch packs and over shimming it up as an open diff, this has damaged the diff, no problem as I have just bought another box off a later model with a open diff
This means if the casings are different I might not be able to swop diffs lol hmmm will have to wait n see I guess

[De Ranged]

Figured I'd take a punt and finish this since I have it near done

Here is the shaft collar, all I have done is machined a section of Hollow Bar to fit both splined collars
A bit of a catch for the novice is if you are sweating the collars in it can shrink them a bit... I have done a few now and have a good eye for it lol
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1144.jpg

If your coping the easy cheat is do the shaft joiner first so you don't get caught lol
I like to run plug welds in mine as well as weld the ends, given I'm welding unknown metal... case in point the plug welds on the larger spline collar, didn't start nice and there is a odd pattern on the top of the weld pool... at a guess I would say it was caused by high carbon/chromium... If I have to revisit this I will do it again with the appropriate arc rods

With the Shaft Collar done I started on the adapter
Biffed the input shaft into the rover box and offered it up
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1145.jpg

Confirmed my measurements then started fab'ing the cone that will be welded between... the only concern is that you get the matting surfaces true to each other, if you weld over a gap this will cause more shrinkage as the weld cools and can pull your mating surfaces or worst case the whole thing out of alignment
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1146.jpg

With this side done I put the whole thing in the mill and faced the edge that was to be welded to the trans end, this gives me a parallel surface to help align off
Here it is finished
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1147.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1148.jpg

Now what you can't see is the packers to help me line this up prior to welding
Normally all I do is stand the cases vertical so they balance then tap the lower case with a soft face hammer so the vibrations center the shafts
In this case the Transfer case is so heavy and there was no way I could balance it.... with all the bearings holding the shafts as tight as possible I jacked up the trans so the transfer case was hanging and then measured its range of motion 4 ways and shimmed it centered
Then alternating I spot welded it 8 times the second set of 4 being heavy'er, then burned alternating welds
This doesn't eliminate weld warpage but it is the best I can come up with and haven't had a failure yet, a machined adapter like the Alloy one above is a better (more reliably true) option
If I am able (the mating surface is flat) I will weld this down to my welding table prior to burning the final welds as this controls weld warpage next best is bolt them to the cases

And there ya go