Marks 101

[mark_coffey]

A good mate of mine asked me if I was still looking for a forward control, I'd been looking about for a 2B for a while but this definitely isn't a 2b, I thought what the hell.
Just before Christmas 2013 I got into contact with AJ and eventually a deal was made.
I am now the proud owner of 96100170A


Originally the vehicle had a coach built body on it similar to a bus of an earlier era, full timber frame, clad in plywood and aluminum sheeting.
Unfortunately the paint was hiding a hell of a lot of corrosion and the decision was made to remove the entire body and take it back to its GS configuration.


Up to the Easter weekend land over show at Melrose, I have replaced all the wheel bearings, seals, rear brake lines, front brake lines and tyres.


I haven't had a chance to sort out some of the electrics as it has twice the amount of wiring than the drawing shows.


There is also the job of replacing the entire rear cross member, which will be a lot easier now the rear tray can be removed.




coutesy of The Land Rover FAQ

Label No. Vehicle Serial # In Out Colour Dispatched To
3/1 96100170 29 Apr 1977 19 Jul 1977 Bronze Green Farnborough

[mark_coffey]

more photos

[Mick_Marsh]

Interesting.
It was delivered to Farnborough. Probably the RAF base there.
I can't find any army or RAF VRM (English version of the ARN).
Well done on your purchase.

Oh, it should be a 24V RHD.

[mark_coffey]

Hi Mick, yes it is 24V.
It also appears to have a replacement motor fitted, it still has a tag fitted hanging from the front of the lhs rocker cover and stenciled treatment down the side of the rocker cover.
will try to photograph tomorrow arvo.
It runs very sweetly although there is a pretty bad vibration somewhere at 80km/h

[101RRS]

It runs very sweetly although there is a pretty bad vibration somewhere at 80km/h

That will most likely be the 101 rumble - from the front driveshaft - basically learn to live with it by adjusting speed and or throttle postion - faster or slower to minimise it.

If you want to keep your vehicle standard there is not much you can do about it.

Garry

[Mick_Marsh]

Gav, Tom and I had drive shafts made with double cardon joints. Mine aren't fitted yet but Gav's and Tom's are.

[stuee]

Gav, Tom and I had drive shafts made with double cardon joints. Mine aren't fitted yet but Gav's and Tom's are.

Who made these and how much? I've seen references to them but I haven't seen a thread or details and pics yet :(

Great to see another 101 owner posting up a build thread otherwise!

[Mick_Marsh]

Who made these and how much? I've seen references to them but I haven't seen a thread or details and pics yet :(

Great to see another 101 owner posting up a build thread otherwise!
Gav will probably be able to tell you off the top of his head. I'll take a little longer.

[wrinklearthur]

Gav will probably be able to tell you off the top of his head.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/662.jpg


I'll take a little longer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/663.jpg

.

[Mick_Marsh]

And thank you for that pertinent information.

A little slow on the forum tonight?

[wrinklearthur]

Sorry couldn't find a cartoon for a little slow tonight as I'm a little slow and it's a little slow tonight.

I think Conrad has sold his 101 from down here some years ago, haven't seen him around lately.

.

[DasLandRoverMan]

As we welcome another into the asylum...

Good for you chap, I'm a big fan of IIB's myself, but just as devoted to 101's and other FC Land Rovers.
Hope to see more of your truck.

[The ho har's]

And may I say with some very nice tyres on it :D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Sitec]

Hi Mark!
Good to see you on here. Yup, you've got a bit of work ahead, but it'll b worth it!! We've just gotta catch up with the third shipping buddy (the Tdi powered 101.. Think it went to WA..). It does look better with the lid removed! Somewhere I've got a pic of it when I looked at all three up at AJ's.
So, keen for the Aug Wombat trip? ;)

[Homestar]

I'm back...:D

Been working on a big job in central Vic for the last 5 days and forum time has been limited. I had a good look over this 101 when it was at AJ's and the engine does run veeery sweet. As mentioned, the vibration is your front drive shaft.

Also as mentioned I now have a double carden unit in the front of mine supplies by a crowd in England whose name eludes me at the moment, I'll go look it up shortly. Cost was around the $500 delivered.

It cured about 90% of the vibration issues. If I try I can get it to come back on a slight over run at 80 to 100KPH but its much easier to 'drive around' if you know what I mean?

Under 80 and its completely gone. Not 100% sure if the improvement is due to the double carden or the fact it is brand new and has no wear - my old one was completely flogged out.

Anyway, if its due for replacement anyway, I can recommend doing this.

EDIT - Company is Dunning and Fairbank Propshafts - Dunning and Fairbank Propshafts (http://www.dandfltd.co.uk/) Contact Jon Dunning - jon@dandfltd.co.uk

Very friendly, knowledgable and easy to deal with. They did cock up the invoicing a bit, but we were getting multiple shafts built then sent to multiple locations and paid by multiple cards, so that was just a bit of miscommunication.

Overall, very impressed with the product - delivered in less than a fortnight from delivery, which for custom built stuff half way around the world is pretty good IMO.

[roobar_and_custard]

No one available in Australia to make the shafts?

Ian.

[101RRS]

For the money I would want the rumble gone - from what Gav has described the result of the DC shaft is about the same as a well greased brand new normal shaft.

As I have said before I have not yet found anyone who has completely fixed this issue where the 101 has a standard engine/gearbox layout with standard suspension. Lots of hearsay but no confirmed sightings.

Garry

[Homestar]

No one available in Australia to make the shafts?

Ian.

Yes, Hardy Spicer will do you one - for an 'estimated' $1,100 - 'when we can fit it into our schedule'

Couldn't find anyone else that could even do it.

[Homestar]

For the money I would want the rumble gone - from what Gav has described the result of the DC shaft is about the same as a well greased brand new normal shaft.

As I have said before I have not yet found anyone who has completely fixed this issue where the 101 has a standard engine/gearbox layout with standard suspension. Lots of hearsay but no confirmed sightings.

Garry

Yep, about spot on there Garry. I needed a new one anyway, and the DC end only added a few dollars to the bill - worth taking a punt on IMO, and I'm very happy with it. It would be interesting to compare it to a brand new standard unit. If anyone has one locally I can borrow, I'm happy to run some tests. :)

[101RRS]

Yep, about spot on there Garry. I needed a new one anyway, and the DC end only added a few dollars to the bill - worth taking a punt on IMO, and I'm very happy with it. It would be interesting to compare it to a brand new standard unit. If anyone has one locally I can borrow, I'm happy to run some tests. :)

Yes I agree - I went through the same a few years back with a top notch drive shaft builder in Newcastle. Discussed various options and he did not believe a DC would work and was going to be expensive - he convinced me to go wide angle yokes, larger UJs with fine rollers, long teflon coated splines and a tube filled with rubber to dampen the vibrations. Cost about $700. When fully greased up works great - for about 100km by which time excess grease is expelled, than it works so so - certainly better than the original but not $700 better.

A double double carden might work but the overall length is too short - the likely answer is a wide angle conventional CV joint at either end but this would be very very expensive.

Garry

[Sitec]

The issue is the front prop, not the rear.. There are two fixes.. 1. (the simpler of the two).. Lower the nose of the engine by about 25mm. This will get rid of the rattle... 2. Using a jig, have the nose of the diff tipped up and then put the front prop out of phase...
The vibration is caused because the front diff flange is not parallel with the transfer case front output shaft. As a prop is turning at a given speed, the center tube and splined section between the two yokes is actually accelerating and decelerating once with each revolution. As long as the shaft joints are in phase and both mating faces are parallel this is not a problem. When mine arrived, and was standard it rumbled a little, but not a lot compared to the 101 I owned in the UK. The front prop had been modified. They'd removed the wide angle joint at the top which lessened the rumble. I think if the engine was dropped a small amount (the rad cowl re drilled to suit) and both joints on the front prop changed for the std angle (series type) joint, the rattle would all but go.. Just my thoughts.. With the rear diff nose lifted and the modified 110 rear prop on the front I have no rattle. :)

[mark_coffey]

101 club • View topic - An interesting one. (http://www.101club.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5728&view=previous)


I have spent a bit of time lurking about the web, I did manage to find some more of the story behind my 101, It may have been a mechanics service vehicle that lived within the Farnborough experimental establishment and may have never been given a military number??
More questions than answers!

[Sitec]

Hi Mark.. How's the 101 going? Fancy a trip over to Wombat camp just across the border?? We're goin... B gud to have another!! ;)

[mark_coffey]

Hi Sitec,


Not much happening with the 101, only managed to clear a space in the shed to put it away as I'm up north working on a shutdown.
head home in another week to get ready for 2 more shutdowns before the end of july then get the Whyalla show sorted in mid August, doubt if I will make it but will try.
not enough hours in the day, not enough days in the week!
I need a holiday in a 101, at least I wont hear the phone ring!!!

[kreecha]

Thanks for the look at it yesterday mark. I'm jealous ;-)

[mark_coffey]

Thanks for the look at it yesterday mark. I'm jealous ;-)

Its a pity I wasn't home to catch up. will really push to get it on the road, its a shame to have it just sitting around as an ornament.

[kreecha]

Has it ever been registered in Aus?

[Mick_Marsh]

Has it ever been registered in Aus?
No.

[kreecha]

No.

Right,
I just retread the thread. Makes sense now!

[mark_coffey]

Hi Kreecha,


I havnt been home enough to sort out the rego, still have a few little bits to sort out like reversing lights and mudflaps, as per discusions with Sitec about his, and will be getting it registered soon hopefully!

[Mick_Marsh]

How did you go with the spare wheel flap? I have one spare.

[mark_coffey]

How did you go with the spare wheel flap? I have one spare.

Hi Mick,


I didn't have much luck, I made a temporary one but are interested if you are willing to part with. If you could let me know what you are asking for, and I will get organised and come to some arrangement.


Thanks


Mark

[Sitec]

And once you've sorted the $$$ side, I'll collect it at Wombat and then have an excuse to drive to you're neck of the woods Mark!! ;)

[Mick_Marsh]

Yeah, Mark, I'll pass it on to Sitec at Wombat

[mark_coffey]

many thanks!

[mark_coffey]

Its been a while, but I managed to get a few kms up driving around our local showground last weekend using the 101 as a tug to move all of the display trestles and legs about on our big trailer.
It was good to get it working hard, managed to find a few more bits to fix, the master cylinder is shot and has now leaked all of the brake fluid onto the floor, at least I don't have to strip that panel of paint now.
I can at least get a few more bits sorted now and in the next few weeks, work has slowed down a bit for now.
hopefully look to get it regoed in the next couple of months

[Sitec]

I have you're wheel door here, so it might b a gud excuse for a drive up in the not too distant future!!! :D

[mark_coffey]

Thanks Simon.


There's going to be a 4 wheel drive show here on the October long weekend hosted by the local club if you wanted to make a weekend of it. I should be heading your way in a couple of weekends time, have a vintage swather to load up from the farm to head to Boolaroo Steam and Traction Society just north of Snowtown, I could head down after and catch up.

[Sitec]

PM me when you're headed this way, and yeah we were thinkin of makin an appearance in oct!!!

[Sitec]

Good to catch up today! Parts exchanged, and a few more missing bits headed you're way too!! :)

[mark_coffey]

Thank you Sitec and thank you Mick Marsh, Ive got the parts back here in whyalla, they are all still in the back of the defender, didnt get home till 3am, up at 6 for a 12hr shutdown that become a 16hr shutdown then back to bed again!
I really must have a week off and get into the shed!

[mark_coffey]

knocked off early and decided it was too nice an afternoon to waste.
first up strip the wax coating off of the front spring hanger to find the chassis number, bad move, I managed to find 9610.......... bugger, the pitting that bad that the other half of the number has become part of the background.
while I was there I decided to see how much chassis rust is hidden under the wax.
the front outrigger barely resembles a pattern, and to make matters worse I scraped clean through the fuel tank, bugger!
Time to clean the shed out, finish wiring it up and put it in there and strip it to the chassis.
It has to be done, time to get the 2a engine tidied up for corowa, this wont make it now.

[Sitec]

Ah bugger!! That bad!!? Look on the bright side, they come apart easily, and it'll look awesome when done!! :)

[mark_coffey]

got keen in the last couple of days, pulled the remaining bolts out and what didn't undo pulled out of the tray and lifted that clear of the chassis.
I can now get clear access to the rear end.
A good mate turned up and in a couple of hours with a fair bit of scraping and a 2500psi water gun we have managed to expose almost all of the chassis down to bare metal.
It is clear that all but the front outrigger on the drivers side need replacement and just the last two on the off side.
will pull the fuel tank out next week to see what really needs repairing or just use it as a pattern for a replacement, its not the original, but a fabricated unit anyway.
while we were playing, we checked the spacing opposite the fuel tank and there is enough room to fit a 65L water tank that I had floating around, might have to sort that out before I put the tray back!.
included are a couple of photos of the unit prior to cleaning.

[Sitec]

Easter is not that far away.... ;)

[Homestar]

Easter is not that far away.... ;)

Ahhh! Don't say that! I've still got a ton of things to do to mine before then too!!!

[mark_coffey]

got a bit slack today, went with a couple of mates along the top of the Darke Peak range then spent the afternoon lazing at the beach at Pt Gibbon.
Took my 130 with a patrol, pajero, prado and a jeep just to make the path clear for them to follow!
enough incentive for me to get my 101 on the road to put it through some of my backyard country!
back into it tomorrow, got to set up to cut off the rear cross member to see how much fabrication will be required to repair the chassis rails to fit the new rear member parts.

[mark_coffey]

I had a huge stroke of luck the other day, a good friend managed to get his hands on a new old stock brake master cylinder.
The only part of the braking system I wont have replaced after this will be the load apportioning valve on the back end, with the tub off it isn't looking too good, will try my local supplier, he has been good with a lot of old stock in a long established business.
If only I could get as lucky with x lotto

[Sitec]

I had a huge stroke of luck the other day, a good friend managed to get his hands on a new old stock brake master cylinder.

He got any more!? Mine's playing games.

[mark_coffey]

attacked the rear cross member today, looks as though the rear war held up with paint and silastic and just the top sheet of the original outriggers.
Someone has built a replacement and welded it to the existing tinwork, where the weld didn't take, they used silastic instead and painted it!


and a photo of a new old stock master cylinder

[mark_coffey]

been a busy morning, managed to remove the existing cross member and towbar, I think the towbar is all that was holding it together.
the second photo is the replacement cross member sections from the uk in position to work out how much chassis rail will need to be replaced

[Homestar]

Nice progress. There really was a lot of rust there. :(. Once you get the chassis sorted, you know you will have a great vehicle for years to come. The engine of that unit certainly ran sweet when I had a look at it, so hopefully you'll have done all the hard work when the chassis is sorted. :)

[mark_coffey]

I think the chassis is going to be the easy part to sort, just the patience to get it right.
Being an electrician, I think trying to sort out the wiring is going to be the biggest nightmare, I am seriously considering that the easies route will be to start again, somewhere along its life, there has been at least 4 fires in the wiring loom and replacement sections.
There were circuits going to lights front, back, top and bottom all of which were not fuse protected!
I've already done a landy fire truck from scratch, including a few non standard items, this should be a hell of a lot easier!

[Peteren]

So when did a little electrical fire slow you down Mark?

[mark_coffey]

a few years ago in the BOS, just after they tried to burn he Billet Caster down!

[mark_coffey]

this might take just as long to do aswell!

[Peteren]

Hardly a challenge for you, remember, I know how skilled you are.
Wait till the BOC operator starts running for the exit!!

[mark_coffey]

that usually means I have to run the other way!

[Peteren]

that usually means I have to run the other way!
LoL, yes with extreme haste
Back on topic, if you need any help in the shed give me a yell, engine stands, engine hoist, tools, MIG etc

[Homestar]

I think the chassis is going to be the easy part to sort, just the patience to get it right.
Being an electrician, I think trying to sort out the wiring is going to be the biggest nightmare, I am seriously considering that the easies route will be to start again, somewhere along its life, there has been at least 4 fires in the wiring loom and replacement sections.
There were circuits going to lights front, back, top and bottom all of which were not fuse protected!
I've already done a landy fire truck from scratch, including a few non standard items, this should be a hell of a lot easier!

Ha ha - I'm a Sparky too, and one of the first jobs I did was rewire the whole thing.:). It's got 8 fuses now, as well as 6 relays, and they are easy to get to. Well worth the effort.

[mark_coffey]

LoL, yes with extreme haste
Back on topic, if you need any help in the shed give me a yell, engine stands, engine hoist, tools, MIG etc
Thanks Peter, I've got pretty well most of it covered, I will keep you in mind, at least you wont have these issues with your Landy!

[Sitec]

Hi Mark. just seeing the fun you're having with the rear x member. If you need measurements, Pete (puma130tc) has his 101 at chassis stage. It'd be easy to get rear X member measurements from him now.. Cheers.

[mark_coffey]

Thanks simon. Will catch up as heading to adelaide this week. Funny thing, it appears as though the previous repair wasnt set at the right height. I had to reposition the chassis to get the outriggers on

[mark_coffey]

before I butcher the remains of my cross member off of my rear axel, does anyone know what size the shackle bolts are?
as you can see from the photos, there's not much left of the rear cross member.

[mark_coffey]

the final rust was cut out yesterday and now being prepared for welding, should be back together in a couple of weeks. below the chassis are the braces for the drop plate on the drawbar, very heavy but excellently made, sleeved through the chassis and the drop plate, not in picture, completely wrapped around the bottom of the rear cross member.

[Homestar]

Great to hear you're almost done with the rust. :)

Now you can get stuck into more fun stuff. Glad to see you took the time to do the job properly - you'll have a cracking vehicle once you're done. :)

[Tombie]

I might have to pop over and take a look Mark ;)

Wayne is dropping down, may time it to catch up with you both...

[digger]

That'll look schmick Mark.

Be very pretty all under there now
Going gloss black?

Although it's not all good before you could have all 4 wheels
On the ground at once on a ramp etc due to chassis flex!!

[mark_coffey]

my mate has made a bit more progress this week, starting to look the part.
heading to Montrose to pick up some more parts this week, fingers crossed it will see sunshine again in a couple of weeks

[mark_coffey]

just about to paint the chassis, first time back on its own springs with a complete chassis for nearly a year!

[mark_coffey]

nearly ready to start the rewiring and the rear brakes. waiting for the paint to cure and the replacement stainless fuel tank to arrive

[Sitec]

You're not mucking about are you!! Deadline to meet? :)

[mark_coffey]

on a roll, got to keep going!

[mark_coffey]

fuel tank fitted, still using a jerry can to run engine, replacement skirts fitted over wheels, replaced panelling around fuel filler/ regulator mounting. started on re-skinning the doors, more rust than usable metal!

[cooee]

hi mark
well done on your work on 101 you have been busy
all takes time look foward more updates
have you decided on what colour
cheers cooee

[Homestar]

Great work Mark, you've done a mountain of work on it. Can't wait to see it all finished. :)