Seeking advice on fitting out a new 110

[DrytheRain]

Hi all

I'm a new member on here and will be taking delivery of my MY14 110 wagon in the next couple of weeks. It's my first Land Rover, although I've logged a fair few hours behind the wheel of my partner's MY13 90 (she's very trusting!).

I realise there are a few similar threads around at the moment, so I apologise for adding another, but I didn't want to hijack anyone else's thread and I have some specific questions.

I'm planning on fitting the 110 out as a tourer and want get the exterior equipment out of the way first, before it gets too dirty and weathered.

I've done quite a bit of research and so far, the plan looks like this:

LR Genuine raised intake and chequerplate wingtops are being dealer fitted;
Nugget airbox kit;
Extended breathers (I'll probably run these up the raised intake);
Mulgo side rails;
Steel bull bar (I'm thinking of getting in touch with Greg from Outcast Offroad in this regard - I really like the look of the bar he showed in the Verandah section);
Steering guard (probably a Frontrunner alloy one);
JATE rings up front;
Long Ranger 120 litre tank (we went up north in the 90 last year and although we took a jerry full of diesel, we were playing fuel light lottery between roadhouses);
ARV12 tow bar;
possibly a Rijidij dual spare wheel carrier/bumper; and
possibly a set of QT or similar diff guards.

What are everyone's thoughts on this equipment?

Does anyone know who makes an ARV12 tow bar? I know it's necessary to clear the tank. Incidentally, does anyone have one of these tanks on a Puma? The manufacturer's website says that the rear swaybar spaces down 75mm. I'd estimate that this places it in line with the axle housing, but I'm still a bit concerned about ground clearance. Is this an issue?

The Rijidij carriers seem to be the goods, but I'm looking at the dual carrier as I don't want to have to mess about cutting the trim between the body and chassis, plus it saves on having to get separate bumperettes and gives the option of carrying a second spare. Can anyone elaborate on how this carrier attaches to the chassis? It seems like a lot of weight to be hanging off the rear crossmember, especially on a Puma, so I presume it's braced to the chassis rails in some way.

In everyone's experience, are the diff guards worth it? It's not something I often see on four-wheel drives, but they seem to be a popular addition on Defenders. Are the housings inherently weak or prone to damage?

With regard to rustproofing treatments, what are the best options? There's a place local to me that does it, but I don't know the procedure or treatments they use yet. Does anyone have any experience with Beam Car Care or Vitacare in Perth?

I think those are all the questions I have for now. I look forward to your advice. Thanks.

[DieselDan]

Your 110 arrives a few months before mine, so I don't actually have anything fitted to it yet, but here's my thoughts.


Hi all

I'm a new member on here and will be taking delivery of my MY14 110 wagon in the next couple of weeks. It's my first Land Rover, although I've logged a fair few hours behind the wheel of my partner's MY13 90 (she's very trusting!).

I realise there are a few similar threads around at the moment, so I apologise for adding another, but I didn't want to hijack anyone else's thread and I have some specific questions.

I'm planning on fitting the 110 out as a tourer and want get the exterior equipment out of the way first, before it gets too dirty and weathered.

I've done quite a bit of research and so far, the plan looks like this:

LR Genuine raised intake and chequerplate wingtops are being dealer fitted; unless you got a really good deal, I'd get the intake fitted aftermarket - the Mantec plastic jobby is the same as the genuine LR one and about 1/3 of the price!
Nugget airbox kit; yep good idea
Extended breathers (I'll probably run these up the raised intake);Nugget does these too
Mulgo side rails;yep good idea
Steel bull bar (I'm thinking of getting in touch with Greg from Outcast Offroad in this regard - I really like the look of the bar he showed in the Verandah section);I've only seen the pics of this too, but it looks good
Steering guard (probably a Frontrunner alloy one);Have a look at the APT one, it comes with recovery points so you won't need the Jate rings
JATE rings up front;
Long Ranger 120 litre tank (we went up north in the 90 last year and although we took a jerry full of diesel, we were playing fuel light lottery between roadhouses);the tank in the 110 is about 30 litres bigger than the 90 anyway and if you're planning on getting Murray's (Rijidij) rear bar with twin jerry holder, you might not need it.
ARV12 tow bar;
possibly a Rijidij dual spare wheel carrier/bumper; and
possibly a set of QT or similar diff guards.

What are everyone's thoughts on this equipment?

Does anyone know who makes an ARV12 tow bar? ARB maybe? Dunno I know it's necessary to clear the tank. Incidentally, does anyone have one of these tanks on a Puma? The manufacturer's website says that the rear swaybar spaces down 75mm. I'd estimate that this places it in line with the axle housing, but I'm still a bit concerned about ground clearance. Is this an issue?

The Rijidij carriers seem to be the goods, but I'm looking at the dual carrier as I don't want to have to mess about cutting the trim between the body and chassis, plus it saves on having to get separate bumperettes and gives the option of carrying a second spare. Can anyone elaborate on how this carrier attaches to the chassis? It seems like a lot of weight to be hanging off the rear crossmember, especially on a Puma, so I presume it's braced to the chassis rails in some way.Send Murray a PM and ask him, he's very helpful

In everyone's experience, are the diff guards worth it? It's not something I often see on four-wheel drives, but they seem to be a popular addition on Defenders. Are the housings inherently weak or prone to damage?On other 4wds it depends on the style of axle housing, some have diff covers that can be swapped for thicker, stronger components. Rover axles don't have a separate diff cover (apart from the older salisbury axle), so you get a range of bolt-over guards. Not sure if the diff pan itself is any weaker on Rover diffs than anyone else's. I've got them on my disco

With regard to rustproofing treatments, what are the best options? There's a place local to me that does it, but I don't know the procedure or treatments they use yet. Does anyone have any experience with Beam Car Care or Vitacare in Perth?No idea, sorry

I think those are all the questions I have for now. I look forward to your advice. Thanks.

[rijidij]

............................The Rijidij carriers seem to be the goods, but I'm looking at the dual carrier as I don't want to have to mess about cutting the trim between the body and chassis, plus it saves on having to get separate bumperettes and gives the option of carrying a second spare. Can anyone elaborate on how this carrier attaches to the chassis? It seems like a lot of weight to be hanging off the rear crossmember, especially on a Puma, so I presume it's braced to the chassis rails in some way.......................

G'day, Regarding the rear bar, it is attached to the chassis with 12 x 10mm high tensile bolts and 4 x 8mm, all through existing holes. Also, the backing plates that go inside the chassis are 'wrapped' in a way that they spread the load to the horizontal parts of the chassis, not just sandwiching the vertical faces. You can view the fitting instructions online here, Dual carrier fitting instructions (https://app.box.com/s/95522dythls6cn0pu53n) There's lots of pictures and details, so you'll get a good idea of what's involved.

If you need any more info send me a PM or I'll send you my phone number if you want to chat.

Cheers, Murray

[jackiec]

HID spoties and led light bar front and rear.

[DrytheRain]

Thanks for the replies so far.

Dan, I realised after placing my order that the Mantec RAI is substantially cheaper, which was a bit of a "d'oh" moment, but I think I got a reasonable deal on the car including some extras. It has arrived at the dealer and they have the parts, so I'm pretty much locked into it now. I like the design of the LR RAI anyway; I think it matches the look of the car pretty well.

I've had a look at the APT steering guard, but it's hard to tell from the picture on their website if both mounting holes are in-line with the recovery eyes. I'm no engineer, but I'd be concerned about a levering effect if they aren't. I know that JATE rings were developed for carrying Land Rovers by helicopter and not for recoveries, kinetic or otherwise, but they seem to be the best option we have. It's a pity Land Rover couldn't get it together to include a few extra crush tubes or captive nuts in the chassis rails, but I don't want to open that particular can of worms! Does anyone have an APT steering guard? What do you think of it?

Murray, thanks for the extra info regarding your dual carrier. It looks relatively straightforward to fit, so I'll likely be in touch to discuss it further.

Jackie, spotties will likely follow later, once I have a bar. I'll certainly be looking for some sort of rear floodlight, maybe one of Murray's work lights if I opt for a spare wheel carrier.

[Dopey]

Re; APT steering guards, I have two of them, both on 90's.
They are pretty strong, here is a picture of one of them that may show it a bit better than what is on the APT website (one of my 90's is on their website showing the guard).

I have had quite a few different guards from different manufacturers and I'm now very happy with the APT stuff, nothing bad at all about their products, and their customer service is very good too.

Regards, Mike.

[Dopey]

Here is another pic of the APT steering guard, the attachment bolts are in a straight line with the front shackle attachment point.
With Jate rings,they are each only utilising one hole through the chassis for an attachment point, whereas the steering guard uses two on each side with the addition of the plate across between the chassis rails to stiffen things up further, and if you have a bull bar/winch bar on in front, it will further stiffen the chassis up.

[jc109]

Will these guards fit with an ARB bar without modification?

[Dopey]

Will these guards fit with an ARB bar without modification?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1949113-post1.html


I found this post with a pic of an ARB bar on a defender with an APT steering guard.

Regards,
Mike.

[jc109]

Thanks Mike. Looks good. Not a direct pull by the looks of things, as it seems a strap would pull up on the underside of the bar, but it could still work.

[sorefeetseepete]

Some of the best things that I have done are the wingtop checker plates.
They get used all time for placing things. The main problem is sometimes I get around the block, a few corners and speed bumps and realise Ive left something on them. Im amazed at what will stay there whilst driving.

Change the radio. That should be one of your first jobs. Get one with a USB port. Ive only had two problems with my 07 PUMA. A stuck open egr valve (managed to get home) and my factory radio died.

The egr incident meant I bought a fault code reader so next time I can find out what is wrong. Id been putting it off for a few years. Last time I was going down the Birdsville track it rained a heap and a lot of cars had engine warning lights going off. There was no computer reading equipment at Mungerrannie where we were stuck for a few days until the road opened again.

Weather shields on the front windows. I love driving with the window fully down, its much more comfortable for your elbow. Speaking of which, raise the cubby box and your elbow will rest on it. I raised mine with a 1000W inverter in a well ventilated ply box. This combo is very comfortable for driving, much better than original.

All the best Peter

[Damo89]

Change the radio. That should be one of your first jobs. Get one with a USB port. Ive only had two problems with my 07 PUMA. A stuck open egr valve (managed to get home) and my factory radio died.

The radio is fine in the new models. It is an alpine head unit with USB etc. And if he is getting a 110, will come with sub and amp too.

[DrytheRain]

Thanks for the extra responses everyone.

Mike, thanks for the photos of the APT guard. I'm not sure if it'll be bull bar compatible, but it's definitely something to think about.

Peter, thanks for the input. As Damo says, the latest 110s have an Alpine sound system with a USB input, so that's covered, but the weather shields and raised cubby are good suggestions. I might install a Mulgo Ex-box down the track, so that would sort the cubby. Good to know that the wing tops are worthwhile. The LR Genuine items are eyewateringly expensive for what they are, but my research (a lot of it on here) seemed to point to them being the best ones. Anyway, I will undoubtedly use them as a shelf and possibly a vantage point, so I'll have to be careful, because I'm liable to leave things on there too!

[jc109]

Do the Ex-Box sooner rather than later. It's a brilliant mod and it'll permit much easier electrical tinkering down the track.

Re the wing tops, see if it's not too late to cut a deal before you take delivery. I had mine thrown in. They are top quality.

[DrytheRain]

Thanks jc. I doubt I'll be able to get anymore out of the dealer, but thanks for the input on the Ex-Box. I might go for one sooner as opposed to later, since I intend to install a two-way and a fridge at some point. I was looking at one of the threads in the Member's Rides section and someone (Chook?) had rigged up a really nice solution for jump-starting (or in my case running my portable compressor) by installing an Anderson plug on the front of the passenger seat box. Incidentally, how hard was installing the Ex-Box? It looks like a bit of a rat's nest in the driver's seat box with all the wiring.

[Dopey]

Thanks jc. I doubt I'll be able to get anymore out of the dealer, but thanks for the input on the Ex-Box. I might go for one sooner as opposed to later, since I intend to install a two-way and a fridge at some point. Incidentally, how hard was installing the Ex-Box? It looks like a bit of a rat's nest in the driver's seat box with all the wiring.

Here's a link to Daniels ex box fitting instruction PDF.

http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/product-attachments/fi-exbox-22-lr.pdf

Regards,
Mike.

[jc109]

(or in my case running my portable compressor) by installing an Anderson plug on the front of the passenger seat box. Incidentally, how hard was installing the Ex-Box? It looks like a bit of a rat's nest in the driver's seat box with all the wiring.


My rat's nest is now under the cubby, all tucked away in the Ex-Box. My wiring isn't the greatest but it does the job. The installation of the box is easy enough but getting the rubber boot to seat properly was an absolute pig of a job. Heat is your friend...

Note that if you're planning to use the Anderson plug simply for your compressor you may find it more convenient to mount the unit permanently in your soon to be empty seat box. No need then for exposed wiring.

I'll see if I can get some photos for you over the next couple of days.

[AndyG]

Will these guards fit with an ARB bar without modification?

They answered my specific question on that - YES.

However since then i have gone off ARB and are hanging out for a pic of their new Bar, (Ben you promised this week !):)