Meet my 90, and share the adventure.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Stop the clock!
BAS silicone turbo hoses arrived this morning.
Left the UK Thurs night (like mid-night our time) and arrived at my work on Tuesday 10am. Can't complain about that!

Did some measurments of the BAS silicone hoses. Got some T-bar clamps for the hoses that I had left over in the parts box that were destined for my 300zx.

I've currently got some rubbing of the turbo hose on the steering uni joint, it's nothing major, but I will attempt to make it right before fitting the BAS unit.
I've actually got the 'turbo recall' pipe and bracket for my car. When I went in for the recall, the parts were not installed, as I have a metal hard pipe between intercooler and turbo compressor outlet.

I'm still not sure if this is factory...


As for the turbo hoses... the ID's and OD's of the silicone hoses are all over the place... not by design, but due to the weird sizing of the LR parts they attach to.
Rough intercooler hose measurements which might get someone out of a bind one day (all measurements are the hose Inside Diameters):

45mm ID hose for turbo compresor outlet
50mm ID hose for intercooler piping into IC and out of the IC.
IC hose connection to post-cooled hard pipe (LHS) is 50mm
Elbow is 50mm on one side, 60mm on other (not sure which end goes to the throttle body- prob the 600 ID).

[Tombie]

You do know you need to trim one of the hoses for RHD vehicles; I hope...

[cuppabillytea]

Yeh, and you're gunna need some elbow grease (The euphemism for powerful Mandraulics, not actual grease) to fit that elbow.:p

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yes tombie, the product listing with BAS mentioned that a slight trim would be required.

[Tombie]

Yeh, and you're gunna need some elbow grease (The euphemism for powerful Mandraulics, not actual grease) to fit that elbow.:p



Being in the industry he is I believe Toxic may be powered by ManGas.... A compressed product. Valves used on this equipment should not be greased..

[dazzler]

Tombie,

...Whats up with the Avatar ;) is that for real!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Vehicle is operational once more.
This afternoon I invested a whole 30 MINUTES replacing the buggered intercooler hose. A good 5 minutes of that was cobbling together the correct sockets to get the old hose clamps off (who the hell uses a 7mm hex nut on a hose clamp?! what a silly size!).

Got the BAS silicone intercooler hose fitted. Found some T-bolt clamps from the 300zx parts box AKA 'slush fund', and they worked a treat.

Positive note, NOT A SINGLE DROP of oil in the intercooler hoses. So maybe Tombie was right about the stock PCV system working well :p

FUBAR
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/439.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/440.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/441.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/442.jpg


It's time for another...


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/106169d1456478856-meet-my-90-share-adventure-toxie-logo.gif
TOOL REVIEW

Hose picks
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/443.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/444.jpg

Hose picks are pretty useful when working with this kind of thing. They are a real knuckle saver with old crusty coolant hoses, which my 300zx is full of. They can usually be had for 30 clams or thereabouts at decent parts shops. Great for ripping off old hoses, breaking the vacuum (or corrosion) seal of the hoses where it attaches to the part it is joined to, and great for just generally being badass.
While they were not necessary for the job I had, It does make it easy to get the hose started, which would involve a screwdriver, and a bit of swearing otherwise.

[Baytown]

Hi Mitch.
When I replaced the same hose on my truck last week, it took for ever to fit the new Silicone hose, BUT, I did have a little pool of oil in the intercooler hose outlet. (Probably a few drops). Mine is a new (20,000 old) up rated intercooler, and I didn't check for deposits in the old hose. Either way, there was Oil there, so interesting finding on your 90.
Ken

[Toxic_Avenger]

There was a light mist, just enough for a smudge on a clean finger... but no pooling. That's to be expected, but not as much as I've seen in other vehicles, where is pools or pours out.

***


I did the oil change today.
Very easy job. Albeit a little messy.

It's in the low to mid 40's here today, so I took the car for a literal 'lap around the block' and it was up to operating temp :o

Made this contraption to divert oil to the drip pan

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/393.jpg

Sits on the drag link, and drains oil out the little nick I cut into the bottom foot of the bottle
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/394.jpg

My coke bottle engineering is on point.
Shame my ability to remove the air vent plug from the oil drip pan game sucks.
As the oil flowed out, it flowed over all over the driveway. I use this style of oil drain pan, which is good, but if the pouring spout lid is not undone, the oil flows in very slowly.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/395.jpg

I drained just under 6 litres, and probably had the remaining 300ml on the driveway.

Filled to just over 6.3L, its in all the right places on the dipstick, so that's a positive.

Also fitted the stahlbus oil drain valve.


***


In other news, I'm chasing one of these:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/396.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/397.jpg
I will probably do both sides, and get all new hardware for them, as the nylock's on it are shagged, and one of the bolts was well and truly munched. The wera joker ratchet wrench made easy work of the seized fastener though, I punished it that hard, it was hot to the touch after I was done with it.
Looking for new ones- any hints on local suppliers?

[cuppabillytea]

Hi Mitch. Tombie may be able to enlighten us on this but, I've been told that as the Bearings in the Turbo require high flow, high pressure lubrication to keep them cool, the seals weep a bit and the oil in the charged are system is the result.
This could be absolute crap that I'm talking here but it has a ring of credibility to me. If it's true, I'd be more worried about the lack of oil than the presence of it.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Hi Mitch. Tombie may be able to enlighten us on this but, I've been told that as the Bearings in the Turbo require high flow, high pressure lubrication to keep them cool, the seals weep a bit and the oil in the charged are system is the result.
This could be absolute crap that I'm talking here but it has a ring of credibility to me. If it's true, I'd be more worried about the lack of oil than the presence of it.

No, you're right.
Turbochargers have the compressor (cold) and turbine (Hot) sides, and the CHRA (Centre housing, rotating assembly) joins the two.
Often they run either ball bearing or journal bearings to link the two sides. It's not clear in the service manual whay bearing system this the puma uses. Journal bearings are particularly interesting as the shaft just slops around until the oil pressure gives it a nice smooth layer to spin on. THere will always be some minute leakage past the seals, but I'd draw the line when oil is pooling in the pipework and 'cooler.


A significant oil leak to the intake via a failed turbo bearing can in some cases, lead to a run-away of the engine- Uncontrolled revs, inability to shut down, plus you get the incredibly fun 5 minutes to watch the engine as it revs itself to death.
There is some great youtube vids of this if you go looking.

Puma would more likely than not be protected from run-away by the throttle plate, which would cut air supply in such a situation. In older diesels plugging the inlet air hose or blasting a CO2 fire extinguisher into the engine is a good way to stop it grenading.

As for lack of oil rather than presence of it...
The CHRA is lubricated by engine oil, so if there is none of it at the CHRA, you've probably at best, got oiling issues elsewhere, and at worst, thrown a rod out the side of the engine :p

[cuppabillytea]

Yes. I've seen the highly entertaining videos of runaway engine self destructions.
If I saw Pools of oil in the Charged Air System I would be alarmed, but a film of oil I would think is normal.
By the way,I had a similar rip in my Intercooler to Inlet Hose which I patched with a Bicycle Tyre Repair Kit and some strong Tape. It lasted till the B.A.S Kit arrived.
On Tombies recommendation I now carry a roll of Self Emulsifying Tape in the Tool Kit.

[Tombie]

Mitch... see SuperPro for the sway bar D bushes.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Today I installed the Silicone BAS intercooler hose. Here is a short video outlining the process. There is a bit of a knack to it, PM for more details if you get stuck?

https://youtu.be/qWswb7hOqUk


In that fraction of a second, there was an imperial ass-tonne of wang-jangling that happened to get the hose onto the vehicle.

Below is some rough steps of what happened:



Remove radiator fan top cowl.


Remove dirty side cold air intake piping (I have nuggets kit, hence all the blue schmoo everywhere). This pipe was just wrangled out of the way.


Remove airbox lid, and undo both ends of the airbox to turbo inlet elbow. This can just dangle on top of the engine by the PCV hose. I put a glove over the turbo intake opening to stop crap getting in, but a rag would be just as good.


I have one of the Land Rover intercooler hose iterations which included the metal pipe with rubber ebends on each end. Start by undoing the hose elbow attaching to turbo. Ideally, do both ends. on this hose. Should be a hose clamp with a 7mm hex/flat screwdriver fastener
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/316.jpg


Undo the intercooler end of this same hose. I used this monstrosity of a ratchet to get'er'done. 3/8 with solid extension, 1/4 reducer and a flexy extension. 7mm on the end. Give her the whole 12inches right in the crack near the radiator. Works a charm every time.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/317.jpg


From there, any hose clamps were undone, and hose hooks used to get the rubbers off. They were on pretty tight, it wasn't pretty. If you have the all-rubber hose style, then you can just bend it to make it move where you want.


The hose was removed out the top of the engine bay. It was pulled back, under / around the cat converter, I/C end fed down into the abyss and pulled straight back up and out. Like I said: Lots of Wang-jangling happened today.
Here is old and new, side by side (No legible part unmbers on that hose, I'm afraid).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/318.jpg


From here, It was on to the re-assebly steps. Get the correct brackets on, and the silicone hose fitted. This is where things also took a buit of a turn.


The alternator is held on by 2x 13mm bolts. These bolts are what holds the support bracket for the recall kit hose support bracket. This is the point where I worked out I didn't have a suitable tool to release the accessory drive belt. Ideally I would use a 3/8 breaker bar, but my anaemic little 3/8 ratchet was not long enough to get the tensioner released. So be it.


This necessitated the alternator bolts to be removed one at a time to get the bracket fitted. Damn- not ideal, but it is what it is.
...This is also where I worked out that the bottom alternator bolt cannot come out fully due to fouling on the steering rod clamp. Double damn.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/319.jpg


I ended up notching the bottom bolt hold on the bracket to allow it to slide in. Once again, not ideal, but thems the breaks.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/320.jpg

Once the alt bracket was installed, I moved onto installing the second bracket. The one that looks like a 'P'.
Surely this goes somewhere around here?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/321.jpg
NOPE.
What about here:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/322.jpg
NOPE.
Or here?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/323.jpg
NOPE.
So I thought to myself, 'Surely there is a bolt somewhere under the airbox???'
FML. I give up. I started to remove the airbox. Surely a simple task I think to myself. NOPE. This is where I didn't RTFM. Cue more wang-jangling!


(This is not a step in the hose install, mainly me documenting it to justify the 90 minute ****up that made this job such a PITA.) The airbox sits on 4 rubber isolator grommets with plastic index pins that are moulded into the airbox. If you've never had these out, they will be crusty, and cantankerous. Use lots of your favourite lube here to get it out. You need to yank it up on the inboard side, and horizontally away from the wing top. there are 2 vertical pins under the box, and 2 horizontal pins under the wing top.

The FSM recommends degassing aircon for this job.
I reckon, if you remove either the alternator, or the radiator fan/lower shroud, you would not need to. You get waaaay more airbox wiggle room if you undo the 3 bolts in the wheel well that hold the airbox support bracket on. Your milage may vary if you don't have nugget's airbox kit, for the life of me I can't recall how the factory ducting interfaces with the airbox inlet.


After I jangled with this airbox for waaay too long, I got back to the job at hand- install the silicone hose. Airbox remained loose in-position, which afforded a bit more wiggle room to get around the hose. I gave up on the P bracket... didn't install it, and still have NFI where it goes.


The hose was fed down, I/C end first, under the airbox. From there the trick I found is to wrangle the hose up into position by stuffing a fist down the hole beside the lower radiator shroud Removing the RHS screw on the radiator allows it to move up a bit, which also helps. Hose clamp was fed onto the hose at this point, then joined to the I/C.


Hose trimming.
BAS suggest approx 15mm trimmed from the turbo end. I found this was nowhere near enough. I removed this much:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/324.jpg
Trick is to cut as square as possible, and cut bit by bit. Used a serrated blade on my leatherman, it seemed to do the best job. You can get dedicated hose cutting tools, but not sure if these are much chop on silicone. For those not familiar with the size of my hand, that's about 50mm.

After the first 15mm it looked like this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/325.jpg
Still pretty kinked, and touching the steering arm.

Here it is all trimmed up, lookin' sexy, with the bracket installed and complete.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/315.jpg


Plenty of room down below now too- probably 30-40mm.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/326.jpg


The rest of the job is just buttoning everything back together. It's fairly straight forward.

PS did this all in 43 degree heat.
I weighed myself afterwards, lost about 3L sweat- I was 3kg under my normal weight! I had a mandatory beer (1 of) and ice water (about a litre) thoughout. She was a hot one.

[cuppabillytea]

In 43 degree heat. That's an heroic effort. I've done it at 18 degrees and I needed 3 beers.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yeah, I gave up using the nitrile gloves I sometimes wear. When I was under the car with my hands raised, there was a torrential torrent of sweat rolling out of the gloves down my arm.

Anyone playing along at home, you can probably budget 2 hours for this install if you don't take all the detours like I did. Probably less if you remove the fan and shroud, as this will give much more access to the I/C end of the hose without the need to moving the airbox too much. Depending on how easy it is to get your airbox ducting off will determine how much space you have to view from above.

I was surprised with how much hose I had to cut, recommend anyone who does this job (for any hose, not just the BAS one) is to to check the clearances and firstly cut down the 90-degree turbo end to effect clearance on the steering arm, and then adjust the I/C end as needed to get the correct lay of the pipe fore/aft.

[Baytown]

Great post Mitch.
I'm dreading fitting this hose, and all you have done is reinforce that dread.
Bugger!
😉

[Toxic_Avenger]

Sadly, It has been a week and a half since I've driven the mule, and I was all set to get over to Andy130's joint to help out with his rebuild.
When I'd attempted to unlock the car, the key fob wasn't working. Odd I thought... So I resorted to the old fashioned way using the key (how primitive!).
Turns out I'd flattened the main battery. I believe I'd left the nanocom plugged in after doing the troubleshooting on the vehicle after the turbo hose blew, and it had drained the battery down to what I measured as 8.7V after a week and a half sitting idle. Whoops.

Lucky for me, my dual battery system came to the rescue- flicked the Blue sea systems ACR switch to 'combine' cranking and aux batteries, and I was good to go. Fired right up.

This whole story is probably not newsworthy in its own, but It does serve an interesting reminder to those out there who may do some remote driving or camping, about the benefits of a properly set up DBS.
If I'd had a 'dumb' switch between the batteries, then I'd have 2 flat batteries.
If the ACR didn't have a combine function, I'd not have had the option to so easily 'jump start' myself.
When I was looking at all the options for the dual battery system, I tried to isolate the 'critical' engine control circuits to the cranking battery, and put all my accessories and non critical stuff on the aux battery. I think this is always a smart move, however it doesn't prevent brain farts like I had from causing you grief when you let the car sit with a active load for so long...

In addition, I dadn't realise that the Nanocom stays ON when the engine is off... probably reinforces that it's a engine diagnosis tool, moreso than an instrument pack (although it does have that functionality). The 'select vehicle' and 'detecting vehicle' screen that always needs to be pushed thru to get to the good stuff on the nanocom is also a slight annoyance, but that's the way the cookie crumbles, I guess.

I checked the battery voltages using a cheap cigrette lighter socket volt meter I have. Probably not super accurate, but a decent tool nonetheless.
With a flat cranking battery, the alternator was charging to 14.7V IIRC, and once it had charged for a while, it dropped back down to 14.1V.
I'll attempt to get a measurement of what voltages I have after the surface charge dissipates. All in all I drove for about an hour to charge the main battery with the ACR doing its thing all the while. It will be interesting to see where I stand- if I have a usable voltage after such a short drive.

[DiscoMick]

I think you will probably need more than an hour driving to fully recharge it. Maybe a lengthy session on a smart charger might be useful to condition the battery back to full health.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Measured 12.5V on the main battery this morning.
The ACR must join batteries to some extent when the vehicle is on or off, as the main is at 12.5V as of this morning, and the aux is at 12.6V.
ie approx 80% SOC after 1hr driving.
I understand the bulk of the charge is fairly quick, it's the absorption stage which takes the longest.

[DiscoMick]

That's pretty good.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I thought so too.
It's probably at the expense of the aux battery charge, but such is life.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Did another mod today. Actually, more of a 'tweak'...

This is an ease of maintenance / ease of use mod.
I run a fuel cooler guard that was part of a small run of parts made by pete simpson on this forum. It's essentially a 5mm thick slab of aluminium that is cut to mount to the trans crossmember at the rear, and the front anti-roll bar mounting 'hangers' at the front. It's a great bit of gear. Here I am showing it off:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/76.jpg

As great as it is, it tends to trap a bit of crud between the crossmember and the alloy plate. No biggie, I just remove it every 6 months or so and give it a wash, and will give it a bit of paint / rust converter if it ever needs it.
But LR engineering makes what should be a simple job, just that little bit more challenging. A 2 spanner job, where it should only take 1. The issue is the bolts in the anti-roll bar bracket need a 13mm offset ring spanner on the top to hold it, while a 15mm is used underneath. The design is such that the folded steel u-shaped hanger cannot be easily accessed with a simple open/ring spanner. Plus the M10x1.5 nyloc nuts the whole assembly uses means there is no easy way out. "There has to be a better way"

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/77.jpg

This idea was triggered by this incident, which required a new anti roll bar bush and carrier:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/78.jpg

So I jumped on the gargler and got some parts from SW Macintyre and some superpro bushes from bursons, and got to work.
Armed with a brain full of half-baked ideas, I cut some steel in my lunch break, and fired up the mig for a bit of poorly executed welding.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/79.jpg

Gave it a bit of paint at Andy130's place tagging along with the painting cycle of his rebuild. It's a Upol product I believe, a rust converting primer, followed by a brushed on top coat.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/80.jpg

Ready fior install. Old Vs new
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/81.jpg

Doneski.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/82.jpg

For those a bit slow on the uptake, this little mod makes this a 1 spanner job.
With the fuel cooler guard / skid plate I have, access is not the greatest with the radius arms in the way. So it's a bit of a time saver. Plus a good little weekend project.

For anyone playing along at home, the dimensions of the steel plate are approx 45mmx145mm (same dimensions as the bush carrier). There needs to be a bit of accuracy in placing the bolt holes and welding, but this is easily overcome by welding while the carrier is attached to the plate. I spaced the carrier out to the extremity of the bolt while welding to ensure they were aligned over their whole length.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Had a Boy's weekend (bucks party) at Dunns Swamp, a nice little place in the Wollemi NP, East of Rylstone NSW.
Google Maps (https://goo.gl/maps/BWqiVZaUD8T2)

Had a good drive down, saw first hand the damage of the fires that ravaged the towns around Casillis NSW a few weeks back...
Had a very nice pie at the Merriwaa bakery, and can highly recommend.
Visited Mudgee for the first time ever, I'll have to go back with m'lady for some vineyard tours etc (thinly veiled excuse for a drink, I know...)


It was my first time there, and I was pleasantly surprised with how nice a spot it was... even if we did invade the place with 20 smelly blokes and 20 cartons of beer...
Plenty of walking, fishing and lots of spacious camp sites both drive-in and walk-in, amongst the rocky outcrops of the camping area. Camping was 6 clams per adult per night. Standard NPWS rate.
The weather was overcast, and light rain pretty much the whole time we were there. I suffered a soggy sleeping bag, and my akubra has taken on an unfortunate shape after getting a tad wet.


Anyway, let the pics do the talking:

The Park:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/794.jpg


Camp site for the night (the next morning)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/795.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/796.jpg


Party posse HQ:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/797.jpg


The rave-cave
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/798.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/799.jpg

View from the rave-cave
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/800.jpg
In the tradition of the indigenous inhabitants from years gone by, the Rave Cave (under new management) hosted the wildest bucks party discotheque the NP has seen since 1896.
Many a drink was consumed, along with music of a moderate volume, into the wee hours of the morning. The only problem experienced was an unfortunate incident when one of the blokes stubbed his thonged toe at approx 2am, ejecting a very loud 'statement of discontent' across the otherwise silent campsite. Rave-Cave security promptly showed the patron to their swag, after administering the appropriate form of liquid first aid (bootleg butterscotch schnapps).


The waterway. Nice swimming and good fishing too, I'm told (I'm a terrible fisherman)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/801.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/802.jpg



In other news, have been trying to track down a squeak in the landy. Happens when turning the wheels, and the engine is labouring on idle (A time of a bit of engine rattling and relatively low noise). There is a slight metallic squeak.
I think I found it. Paint must have rubbed off on the diff guard mounts, as it's not making contact on the pumpkin anywhere I can see. Sprayed it with some WD-40, and will disassemble at a later date to check it out.


https://youtu.be/F_hV7gnj5yk


Booze Revooz:
Can't stomach a drink after the massive weekend. I think I'll have a water and detox until at least 5pm tomorrow...

[Pickles2]

Great post Toxic, & great pics.
Thanks, Pickles.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I'm working my way thu some maintenance on the mule which is a bit of a mix between the A and B service, just a general bit of love for the old girl before the long and dusty road to Melrose in April. It should be anoter good event.

What I've seen is either a hallmark LR QC shining thru as a beacon of British engineering, or I've got some problems which may be starting to show up... YOU Decide

After changing the oil a month or so back, I got stuck into procuring the fluids and other parts for the Diffs, T Case and Gearbox.
The LR Maintenance check sheet 'recommends' the following service intervals:
Gearbox oil to be replaced at 200,000 km.
Transfer Case oil to be replaced at 80,000 km.
Axle oil (F/R) to be replaced at 80,000 km (Presumably final drive / diff oil).

After reading this, Bollocks said I. I think I'll change these a little more regularly than that, thankyou very much...


I did some reading on a suitable oil for the diffs, gearbox and T-Case, and made the decision to stick with Motul Gear 300 75W90 Gear oil as a suitable option for all 3 compartments. Big shout out to the participants of This thread (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/247011-mt82-lt230q-oil-they-same.html) for their valued input on this discussion.

So after some discussions, Andy130 and I pooled resources and did a mini group buy of oil via a very good online vendor- clickable Automotive (https://clickableautomotive.com.au/), where the motul oil was procured for $32 per litre, with a capped shipping price of 10 bucks.
Winning.jpeg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/100.jpg

I must say, getting new oil is like the car-guy equivalent of getting a new pair of sneakers, or a sick new t-shart, or something like that. Love them feels.


I'm going to babble on a bit below, but if you stop here, I won't judge you!
One take home message though, is that any puma owners out there who are on the fence about doing a home service job yourselves, please reconsider, and read on below to find out more. It's not as hard as you might think.

[B]
Changing Diff oil:
After chasing down the weird noise I found in a post above, I removed the diff bash guard to narrow it down to the diff itself, or the guard. I Believe it was jut some metal-on metal squeaking from the top support plate of the diff guard, which should disappear when I reinstall it. I was thankful it wasn't the diff!

Puma diffs have both a fill and a drain port which uses a 1/2 square drive fitting. Spare a thought for the Jeepers out there who only have a fill port, and have to remove the diff cover to drain their fluids!
I opted to buy some magnetic drain sump plugs for the diffs, as the Puma (from what I've read, and confirmed from what my vehicle had), DO NOT have the magnetic Diff sump plugs like their older brothers.
I neglected to get a pic, but the Part number you want to source for your magnetic plugs is LR PN TYB500120. These are easily sourced online or from your favourite parts supplier, or even the dealership.


As part of the noise tracking process, I inspected front diff oil levels and found it to be of a reasonable fuild level, but a bit of an 'off' colour:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/101.jpg

The rear diff oil was much nicer to look at...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/102.jpg
From what I'd read, the front diff depletes the oil at a faster rate than the rear. I didn't really expect such a marked difference though.

This pretty much cementedmy belief that I'll change all fluids out and have a known good starting point for future changes.
While I can't substantiate my case, I seem to recall the last B service I specifically requested a 'change' of all the fluids, but it seems they were only inspected, as the condition shows, and also the drain plug had never been undone by the looks of it (solid set thread sealant, and no signs of EVER having a socket used on it as per the paint condition inside). Live and learn. On the plus side, if it's FUBAR in 10,000 at my next oil service, I'll know I have a bigger problem than a simple lack of maintenance. Golden rule- know your vehicle intimately.


Transfer Case oil change:
After the diffs, I moved to the T case- the LT230Q in my case. This also good a solid dose of the Motul Gear 300 gear oil.

While pokling around under there, I noticed a bit of Land Rover Character shining thru.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/103.jpg
The flat plate on the right is the inspection plate which holds the gearset behind.
The top piece is the MT82 gearbox (I think this might be where the intermediate shaft lives?)
And the bottom part is where the front driveshaft connects to (front output).

The astute amongst you might think it's a bit oily. I'd be inclined to agree.
Before this pic, I wiped off a drip of oil which had accumulated on the bottom bolt head, just near the drain plug at the bottom of that shot. It hadn't returned after 5 days idle... so I don't think it's a 'major' leak.
Furthermore, the T case oil level was fine- when I released the fill plug, the oil flowed out in a thin, steady stream (although the car was on a slight incline- maybe 1-2 degrees).
PRO TIP- I found a 1/2" wobble bar extension is a good fit for removing the fill plug on the LT230, as it sits partially obstructed by the hand brake drum assembly.


Upon draining, sump plug was a bit rough...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/104.jpg
Specs all <1mm.
If I were to think of a time that this might have happened, I did have a bit of a moment once when the CDL dropped out on a bit of a rough climb, and I uncerimoniusly whacked it back into CDL with the T case showing its discontent with a bit of a grinding noise...IT happens :bat:

Drained Oil condition was visually OK
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/105.jpg

Short story is this got a 2.3L dose of Gear oil and the factory magnetic sump plug was reinstalled.. I'll degrease the 'box and monitor the leak location and fluid level.


Gearbox oil change:
I'll get around to the MT82 gearbox drain/fill thru the week. I hope I don't find anything crazy there...
For this I'll need a allen head, M8 IIRC, and this will take the same oil. No need to dismantle anything crazy to get to the fill or drain points, although the fill point is up and around the exhaust and drive shaft, so will be a bit tricky.
If my spidey sense is cooperating today, I believe the fill point for the MT82 is the lower port right near the elbow linkage below:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/106.jpg






On the topic of T-case oil leaks...
I'm not sure if it is sourcing from the intermediate shaft. From what I've read, this lives up in the gap of the space pictured above, and can oftentimes wear out- as it is sealed with an O ring seated in soft aluminium. Ashcroft and some of the australian guys install a steel sleeve to reduce wear. There is the tell-take sign of oil crud and dirt around a round shaft looking thing, but it is not dripping wet...

I also noticed that there was some non-factory looking silicone on the inspection plate cover:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/107.jpg

If the time comes to investigate this further, It'll be a box out job, I'll get it sleeved, install an Ashcroft ATB centre diff, and do the input shaft too... Hopefully bomb-proof it for the future.

Untill next time, work hard, and be good to your mother...

[Toxic_Avenger]

I've been doing some prep for the drive to Melrose.
Finished off the MT82 gearbox oil change this afternoon.
Not difficult in the slightest. I give this job 3/10 spanners- slightly harder than changing windscreen wipers.

Tools required:
2.2L of a gear oil of your preferred flavour (I used Motul Gear 300 75W90 synthetic oil)
Drip tray suitable for approx 2.2L
M8 allen key, or inhex socket
Tom Thumb pump for pumping the oil in (or equivalent- More below)
A rag for cleaning the dirt off the plugs before removal, and clean-up of drips after
Torque wrench, or calibrated bicep for the fil/drain plugs

Steps to success


Undo fill plug first with M8 allen key. This is a right hand thread, so lefty-loosy!
Position the drip tray under the drain plug. This is just offset to the rear of the gearbox X-member under the car.
Undo drain plug with M8 allen key. I used a cut bottle as a disposable funnel to direct the oil into the drip tray a bit easier. Prevents splashback.
Let drain for 5 minutes or so. Being a 75w90 oil, it's pretty fluid at normal temps. If you like burns, warm the car and gearbox up first. The exhaust is great for that gnarly forearm scar you've always wanted!
Wipe excess oil and reinstall Drain plug. Torque to 50nM if you desire. I think of this as equivalent to a solid single-handed tug on a standard 300mm 1/2" ratchet handle
Using the tom thumb oil pump or similar, fill gearbox to 2.2L capacity. This is not an 'overflow' fill. Be careful not to get any dirt or mud into the gearbox when inserting the filler hook into the fill hole.
Once full, insert fill plug and torque to 35nM. You'll need a ratcheting style torque wrench with a 150mm extension and a 8mm inhex to get to it. A ball-end inhex would be even easier. I just tightened it until it was snug. Ain't nobody got time fo' dat.



Oil condition after the draining
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/42.jpg
At least it wasn't shiny. I've had that with my 300zx once...

MT82 sump plug thread dimensions
(Also applies to the fill plug thread dimensions- they are both the same)
The MT82 drain plug on the Defender uses a M8 Allen key. The thread is M16x1.5. This was a crude measurement as you can see below, but being a german 'box, I'm guessing it's metric and not some other imperial thread equivalent (5/8"17 TPI or some such crap)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/43.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/44.jpg

As mentioned above, the MT82 service fill is 2.2L.

Alternative to tom thumb style oil pump
In the past, I've had successusing a sturdy bottle, a length of poly dip tube, and an air source (compressor, worst case, a foot pump) to create a makeshift oil pump. In the lid, drill 2 holes- one that is a snug fit for the tube you are using, the second big enough to put a air gun rubber cone fitting in. Dip hose into oil, pressurize the air space in the top, being careful not to explode the bottle, and fill away. It works in a pinch, but these small tom thumb pumps are about 30 bucks these days, so not really worth the hassle!




Greasin' my shaft
I also took the opportunity to grease the prop shafts. It was probably the first time where I didn't have much drama getting the connections on. I must say though, the long pinpoint coupler is great. Right angle job holds it's own too.
Haven't found a use for the short coupler yet... it seems a little to fat on the tip to couple properly with the uni joint zerk fittings.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/45.jpg

I usually fill until it starts coming out of the joint, then wipe up the excess.

Some questions:
Is it possible to over-grease these fittings?
Is there any other grease points on the puma other than the drive shafts?
Does the prop shaft slip joint need grease? Ie use a grease needle to fill the rubber boot up? (Forgive my lame questions)


In other news, got the pink slip on the Zed done yesterday. How this thing keeps getting registered I don't know... So lock up your daughters, the Z will be on the prowl once more, racing unsuspecting excels up to 50km/h along Peel street. Pimpin' ain't easy. Other upcoming Z maintenance will include a timing belt kit, need to rebuild the Power steering pump, also need to put bigger 740CC injectors in it to stop it leaning out on boost... I've got some upgraded cams, valve springs and adjustable intake/exhaust cam gears to go on too... but not sure if I'll push that envelope just yet... I'm not too confident tuning and I'm not keen on grenading the motor in the Z out of my own incompetence.

[cuppabillytea]

Answer to first question: Your method is the same as mine for unis, splines and ball joints etc. It's alway worked for me.
I once over greased a brand new set of wheel bearings. It was back to SKF a few days later for another set. I was young and stupid then.
There's a "Z" sitting on my Brother's front yard. Every time I see it, The idea comes to mind that I should put it on a traitor and drag it to Tamworth.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I've spent the past 6 days at the Tuff Dog Tuff Truck Challenge, held in Milbrodale in the Hunter Valley. The event is held on a private property which has been used for 13 or so years for both the tuff truck challenge, the King of the hunter offroad race, and a few other events.
This event is a 4wd competition for highly modified vehicles which retain 600mm of original chassis, and retain the look of the donor vehicle in side and front profiles. With such broad rules regarding modifications outside of this, there are some wild rigs.
A few months ago a mate of mine requested my help as a stage official for a track. Him and his father were asked to rebuild/re-design a track named Mini Wirraba- a small, technical track which has 2 tight 90 degree bends, 1x 5 foot drop-off, 1 off camber (45 degree) bend and a devilish climb off this camber up a rock ledge across the top of the 90 point gate, which is a near vertical climb with a breakover angle on the tip that will bring even the most serious vehicle unstuck. It's a wild track, with just the right amount of technical driving needed to get thru, while still having the elements that the punters want to to see (big climbs, potential vehicle carnage and extreme angles).

The event was a non speed event, where drivers pass thru point 'gates' to win up to 100 points on the track, while having points deducted for the use of rear steer, reversing, hitting gate or marker posts across the track. My job in the whole lot was to run around the have eyes on the parts of the vehicle the other stage officials couldn't see. All in all it was a hoot, and would 100% do it again, whether I get the opportunity to continue on as a stage official, or work as event staff or pit crew for one of the teams (there are LOTS of breakages!).

Anyway, I'll appease the masses with a landy pic, then get onto what I think is the good stuff [biggrin]

Rolled into camp wednesday night as the event was still being set up.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/757.jpg
We were right in the middle of the action, just beside the catering vans. Setup the swag, and unpacked a few boxes from the mule.

This was our track, as viewed from the bottom of the hill near the start gate.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/758.jpg

Vehicles would drive up the hill to the 10 point gate, then behind the big Rock with the sign marking on it.

Competitors would drive around to the 20 point gate, then drive over these two boulders which mark the 30 point gate
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/759.jpg
(the track also intersects here- the finish line is on the RHS, and the other side of the big boulder climb is seen on the left).

This is looking down the line of the 30-40-50 gates. Some big boulders to climb and a very tight bend which only the 4wheel steer rigs (or vehicles with rear disconnect) could manage to navigate without a reverse penalty.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/760.jpg
By the end of the day, this was all chewed out with quite a lot of wheel spin from rigs with 42"+ tyres.
The 50 point gate was a 5 foot drop off at the end of the line.

The 60-70 point gate was a rock garden section with a massive off-camber side angle to negotiate around a marker pin that forced competitors to ride that rock high.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/761.jpg

Some people also took some interesting lines thru these gates, dropping some wheels in some very precarious spots
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/762.jpg

After this gate, the 80-90-100 gates were up and over the top of the rock face. A great spectacle for the crowds to hear and see some of the cars attempting this near vertical climb after being unsettled thru an off-camber gate and climbing a sharp 90 degree turn.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/763.jpg


That's about the basic layout of the track. Next post will be more pics and videos with some of the rigs!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Some short videos I managed to capture throughout the event.


https://youtu.be/tOkAvjph-tY
This was our 50 point gate. An interesting drop off which was a piece of cake for most cars, but a little more sketchy for the shorter rigs like the suzuki variants.



https://youtu.be/CMuW1gxT6jQ

This video shows the level of engineering in some of the builds.
Front disconnect allows the drive to be cut from the front wheels, allowing the brakes to be applied, and the rear end driven to skid steer the vehicle into the right position. Coupled with 4 wheel hydraulic steering, these vehicles can drive through some very tight obstacles with great precision. You can also see the level of articulation in this vehicle. Incredible.

[cuppabillytea]

Oh please tell me this isn't happening. I've done something really stupid and lost Mitch's thread in the ether.

[Disco-tastic]

Man that looks like a lot of fun! Best view of anyone you got there.

I made it up there last year but after having our second child in Feb i can no longer venture too far from home haha.

Keep up the good work [emoji106]

[Toxic_Avenger]

Youtube vids finished uploading!
For some reason I can only add two videos per post... so looks like you're getting 5 posts of videos! Huzzah!



https://youtu.be/uVQw9NPncRQ
This rig had a hydraulic actuated A frame over the diff, allowing the rear axles to be jacked down to better position around obstables.



https://youtu.be/v4gPi7YCfQY

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://youtu.be/SPuRAMEcD0k
This was the track beside us. This drop off claimed a few vehicles over the few days. As you can see, this bloke narrowly avoids a rollover.



https://youtu.be/daR1OMP39N8
Some very skillful driving on display here. With some crazy angles on 2 axes, he was successful in riding out that line to be in a very good spot for the next obstacle on the 80 point gate.

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://youtu.be/2UPvCLQo-LY
Big tyres don't always win. This vehicle was rocking some massive rubber, but still bellied out on the 90 point gate.
The little zooks were very competent little trucks, and were the basis of many builds at the event.
The biggest truck there was team LowLux, who were running rockwell (monster truck) axles and 54" tyres. He managed to get stuck on nearly every course he attempted, and ended up getting a DNS (did not start) for many tracks... netting a negative score for the entire comp. It can be a cruel sport.



https://youtu.be/cCMp3fyY8kk
A bit of wheel spin action on the 90 point gate. "A bit of redline for a good time!". It's what the fans want. Sadly not every spectator is in it for watching driving skill... many are just keen to sink beers and watch the cars self destruct.

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://youtu.be/tliMK0Cof8M
This jeep meets an unfortunate end on the adjoinging track. He looks like he was going to stick it, but a bit too much gas and a wrong line and he was over.



https://youtu.be/a-Ve193OH8g
Successfully traversing the 90 point gate... albeit with penalties for touching the bunting on the rock, and knocking over the cone at the 100 point gate at the end.

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/741.jpg


This little zook (Vitara) had a bit of a bad run down the drop off on the Rocky horror course. He ended up clipping his LHS front wheel on the rock, and momentum did the rest. Driver was unhurt. All the vehicles need to have racing harnesses, extinguishers and rollover protection.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0-WYULHEfA


He was not the first vehicle to go over on this drop:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/742.jpg


Other notable pics:


Team rumlux- always good for a rev and some wild driving
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/743.jpg

This 60 series cruiser was very cool. It was its last Tuff Truck event, IIRC.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/744.jpg

Team Elmo- a Hilux covered with red fur... and red balls too
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/745.jpg

A Rangie getting recovered by the Manitou. Lol.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/746.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/747.jpg


This rig was running a solid rear axle on leaf springs. He did exceptionally well given that many cars with all the bells and whistles (4WS, hydro shocks, etc) did not get as far as him. Props to this dude.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/748.jpg
There is a video of him above, too.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I now know what colour zombie blood is :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/734.jpg


Night time mud run up on Feral hill.
These blokes had a beer can snake going. Shortly after they were skulling beers out of someones shoe. There was also the obligatory tits out for the boys chant, interjected by a chorus of 'GIVE IT' when a car was revving or stuck on one of the obstacles. In the distance in the feral hill camping area, there was the occasional gas cylinder exploding in the fire, as well as fireworks and revving of their engines.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/735.jpg


Anotehr team- Team OPW - The Tractor
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/736.jpg
This was the first vehicle across our track for the weekend. It went well, given that the track only deteriorated as more vehicles chewed it up. We had a few boulders which would have been a good tonne, move along the track over the weekend. The Manitou was called into to reset the field of play on a few occasions.

This was the track with all the rollovers- Rocky Horror.
Kids for scale. They were some massive drop offs, with very minimal run-off room.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/736.jpg

Another track, complete with wrecked cars as an obstacle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/737.jpg

Devils Marbles track.
So.
Many.
Boulders.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/738.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/739.jpg

This was on the side of the track which I found during event clean-up. It's and old brake rotor... this track claims victims.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/740.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

In prep for melrose and the critical eye of all the fellow landy nuts at the show 'n' shine, I thought it fitting to give the mule a bit of a scrub up.

Full disclosure- I hate washing cars. I've got 4 of 'em in the household, and it's a task I despise. It's a job of necessity- something that only gets done when it reaches critical mass- usually an event or when the punters struggle to find the car under all the dust and mud. Most of the time I'll drop a few goldies into the car wash and use some high pressure soap and a rinse to get the mud dingleberries off, but this time it needed 'just a little bit more'.

Normally, If the mule is lucky, it'll get about 4 washes a year.
Today, all it's christmases came at once.

I stocked up one some car care gear at supercheap, thought I'd give the autoglym stuff a go (I've never used it, usually bought Meguiars).
Walked out with some shampoo, spray on wax stuff, and some interior protectant and some microfibre cloths.

Started with a wash and chamois.
Moved onto some bug and tar remover on the bits that were a bit stubborn.
Cracked open the long-neglected clay bar cloth and gave the panels a once over.
Followed up with a coat of the spray on wax and buffed it.
Moved onto the trim panels, bullbar, snorkel and window trims, and used some plastic rubber vinyl protectant. Also did the dash and plastic panels insde
Washed the windows and rainex'd them.
Did the tyres. Because race car.
Also spent 5 minutes spraying the plastic fantastic under the bonnet.

Turned out better than expected, but I still want my 4 hours back *grumbles incoherently*

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/704.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/705.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/718.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/719.jpg


Proof you can actually polish a turd!


Today, I also did one of those annoying little jobs I'd never got around to.
The side mirrors had worked loose and were a bit 'flappy', so I removed the hinges, loosened off the door card a tad, and re-tightened them.
First time I buggered it up and lost the nuts inside the door card. Thankfully they dropped straight down, and I pulled them out the bottom.
I should probably re-visit this job and lock-tite the mirror screws in place. Half the problem is the safari snorkel impinges on the mirror arm when the door is fully opened. So the mirror arm is continually flexing as the door is pushed to the lock-open position. This has likely resulted in a much quicker loosening of the little philips screws which hold the mirror on.

[4wheeler]

Are you running the driver's side mirror in the close or wide position? Unless they are non standard mirrors, my driver's side mirror does not hit the Safari snorkel unless I set the mirror in the wide position. Looking at your photos, the driver's side mirror seems to in the wide position while passenger side is in the closer position. Obviously this might not apply if the mirrors are aftermarket. Just a thought.

[Toxic_Avenger]

You, sir, are a genius!
I'd noticed that they were at different angles to the body, but didn't think about re-jigging the RHS mirror to clear. I put it down to one of those oddball defender things.
They've been cock-eyed since the day I bought it.

[DiscoMick]

Really enjoyed your Tuff Truck pics. I went some years ago and enjoyed watching the lads showing off. Some of the runs were crazy. As you said, part of the camping area does get feral.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Departed home in the wee hours of 13.04.2017. The plan was to attend a Land Rover show in Melrose South Australia over the easter weekend, and return home via outback Australia, ticking off a bucket list item at Cameron Corner NSW- the point where three state borders meet.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/432.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/433.jpg
First stop was for a photo op in Mulalley NSW en route to Parkes NSW (home of the radio telescope).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/434.jpg
Warrumbungle ranges in the distance- just south of Coonabarabran NSW

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/435.jpg
Rendezvous with Billy, on our way to Balranald NSW for the first night's stop. I think this is the plains outside of Balrenald.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/436.jpg
Suddenly, a wild windmill appears!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/428.jpg
At the Land Rover show, we drove the bridle track, Near Port Germein South Australia

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/429.jpg
Germein Gorge Road.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/430.jpg
Winnin' prizes and shiz. Didn't win the raffle though :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/431.jpg
Ceremonial burning of the faggot. Gotta keep that fire roaring.

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/417.jpg
Driving back to Broken Hill... running on empty. Need to work on my fuel range.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/418.jpg
Mad Max Museum in Silverton NSW


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/419.jpg
Plenty of cool old cars


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/420.jpg
The last of the V8's. She sucks nitro!


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/421.jpg
The Landau


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/422.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/423.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/424.jpg
PHAT


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/425.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/426.jpg
Shared my breakfast with this little dude at the Silverton Caravan park.

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/407.jpg
Mundi Mundi Lookout, Silverton NSW. This is where the opening chase for Mad Max 2 was filmed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/408.jpg
Heading north on the Silver City highway NSW. Much flat. Very long. Wow.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/409.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/410.jpg
Emus clearly don't give a damn. AKA bush chooks.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/411.jpg
Old shearing shed on the silver city highway

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/412.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/413.jpg
Refuel at Packsaddle roadhouse, Packsaddle NSW

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/414.jpg
Wrapped my chops around one of their steaks for lunch, washed down with a XXXX Gold. Was so good after a solid morning on the road!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/415.jpg
50km north of Packsaddle the highway was dual purposed as a emergency runway.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/416.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/397.jpg
At the end of the runway was the Tool Tree.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/398.jpg
...and the baby tool tree. Remember, don't water your tool tree!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/399.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/400.jpg
Milparinka NSW. The mountain here is the site of Sturt's Cairn. Charles Sturt and his crew camped here for 6 months in 1845 during a drought, and camped nearby at Depot Glen.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/401.jpg
Tibooburra NSW. Nice little town, and a good base for exploring 'Corner Country' (Cameron's Corner).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/402.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/403.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/404.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/405.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/406.jpg


I was travelling solo at this stage... so a little stir crazy, the car got all the photographic attention. Selfies are for mugs.

[Toxic_Avenger]

On the road to cameron corner there was a clay pan you drive over. It was the 'golden hour' right on dusk with some nice light, so got some glamour shots of the mule.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/388.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/389.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/390.jpg

Camped at the Fort Grey camp ground in teh Sturt National Park. So quiet that your ears ring during the night. Many stars too. Bugs galore were attracted to the light I had.

Early the next morning (broke camp around 0430), I trucked the remaining 20 kays to the corner.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/391.jpg
Cameron Corner- where NSW, QLD and SA borders meet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/392.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/393.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/394.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/395.jpg

Rolled up to the roadhouse for some fuel, a big breaky and a shower.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/396.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/383.jpg
Look at this tosser. What a mug.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/384.jpg
Back home Via the Cut line- Tibooburra to Wanaaring then on to Bourke. This is the path of a telegraph line of days gone. About 500km of dirt roads between remote towns.
Road conditions were 'interesting'. Road between Tibooburra and Wanaaring was good, albeit a little corrugated. The road from Wanaaring to Bourke was abysmal. Bulldust, corrugations and truck tyre tracks which were skidding all across the 15m wide formed 'road'. White knuckle driving indeed! Had a few poop your pants moments when the 90 started a 4-wheel powerslide at close to 100 on the big sweeping bends. Lets you know you're alive.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/385.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/386.jpg
Cotton Harvest in Bourke NSW. The big modules on the left are fed into the gin where it is processed into bales, which is then woven into fabric for shirts etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/387.jpg
After the cannonball run back from Cameron Corner to Tamworth in one sitting, I made it back to landcruiser country before midnight.

[Phil B]

Great report mate!!
Well done!

[cuppabillytea]

Thanks Mitch. Makes me wish I had a few more days.

[DefenderSte]

Cracking pics there bud.......👍🏻👍🏻

[Tombie]

Great shots there Mitch...

And great to catch up again at Melrose...

[Toxic_Avenger]

Likewise Tombie, it's always good fun down there.

[rick130]

Mitch, a quick response re the front diff oil colour (if no one else has mentioned it yet)
The 'One Shot' grease from the swivels tends to migrate through into the diff compartment, and being moly fortified it's a nice grey colour.
It throws everyone the first time they do a front diff oil change.

Great pics, I drove through Melrose last night after spending a few days in the Flinders, in Clare atm to sample the local wares.
I know, I'm a week late......

[Toxic_Avenger]

The 'One Shot' grease from the swivels tends to migrate through into the diff compartment, and being moly fortified it's a nice grey colour.
It throws everyone the first time they do a front diff oil change.


The colour did throw me... thanks for the advice- you're the first.
Is this generally seen as the axle seals being compromised, or just a normal occurrence?

Enjoy your time down there, I'd love to do the food / wine trail some time (it's something ms Avenger could enjoy), so let me know how you get on!

[rick130]

The colour did throw me... thanks for the advice- you're the first.
Is this generally seen as the axle seals being compromised, or just a normal occurrence?

Enjoy your time down there, I'd love to do the food / wine trail some time (it's something ms Avenger could enjoy), so let me know how you get on!

It shouldn't happen but the swivels get hot, pressure increases and the inevitable happens, particularly if the swivels have been overfilled.

The first time I did a front diff drain I opened the fill plug and half a litre of dark grey oil cascaded out.
I couldn't work out what had happened !

The maintenance boys in the NT Public works had filled the swivels as you did the old Landies, (my 130 was a just off lease ex NT BFC vehicle) but there's no level plug on post '96 vehicles and One Shot became the factory fill from when they deleted the level and drain plugs......
To check the level you need to put the steering on hard lock and dip the compartment with a piece of wire through the fill plug.
Frustrating they deleted the drain and level plugs.

I reckon I could enjoy myself here for a couple of days, balances the more remote stuff (which isn't so remote anymore going by the sheer number of campers and 4WD's I've passed over the last week)

[4wheeler]

I have had the swivel grease contaminating the front differential oil. At the 20,000 km service the dealer informed me that the front diff oil was contaminated. I informed them that I had had the vehicle since 8000 km and it had not seen water or other that would get in there. I know the oil was originally clean as I checked it when I purchased the vehicle. I suggested swivel grease contamination but the response was no - definitely from external contamination. I thought rubbish. At 22,000 km it went in for other warranty work and I informed them the oil was discoloured the same grey colour again. This time they decided the seals were leaking the swivel grease into the diff oil - really, why didn't I think of that? The dealer replaced the seals. The diff oil is discoloured again at 28,000 km, although I noticed it at a lot less distance than this. I can't be worried about it. There is no sign of metal in the oil so unless other deterioration occurs, I will live with it unless others suggest otherwise. I might change it before a run up to Cairns and back in around 3 weeks time. I will probably fit a Harrop E Locker in the front to match the rear so might get the seals done again then.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Had a small victory against corrosion today. With the help of andy130 and his air compressor with his special spray doo-hickey thinga-mabob, we applied a few litres of Penetrol oil to the chassis rails of the mule, and a few other little parts (outriggers, firewall bulk head, rear crossmember inside door skins). His 130 got good a good dose too!

This is coming off the back of ANZAC day, where I spent a good 2.5hrs under the car with a hose flushing out the chassis rails and anything else I could get to. It was a good old fashioned dirty job. My neighbours probably thought 'look at this nut-bag under his car covered in muddy water!'.
All in all, I estimate that I got a conservative 5 kilos of mud, stones, and leaf litter out of the chassis. Amazing what gets trapped in there.

Along with my existing 6-or-so monthly INOX MX-4 Lanox treatment of the nuts and bolts around the car, I'll probably aim to flush the chassis and put penetrol thru it on an annual basis. Or be more dilligent when I go thru mud holes to flush what I can out as soon as possible [thumbsupbig].
While I was using andy's venturi type suction spray rig with a garden sprinkler type fan nozzle on it, for the average punter, I found that a normal old spray bottle with the adjustable stream/spray nozzle on it would reach a lot of the chassis internals with minimal outlay. The penetrol mists up really well, and has a volatile component which looks to mist off at normal temperatures. So to this end, I think just going to town with a spray bottle would work reasonably well for those wanting to do the job, but not want the outlay for all the spray-painting accoutrements.

[Bytemrk]

Looks like you had an awesome trip home Mitch... nice photos!.


I got home today..... photos still coming [bighmmm] Was great to finally meet....

[DiscoMick]

Had a small victory against corrosion today. With the help of andy130 and his air compressor with his special spray doo-hickey thinga-mabob, we applied a few litres of Penetrol oil to the chassis rails of the mule, and a few other little parts (outriggers, firewall bulk head, rear crossmember inside door skins). His 130 got good a good dose too!

This is coming off the back of ANZAC day, where I spent a good 2.5hrs under the car with a hose flushing out the chassis rails and anything else I could get to. It was a good old fashioned dirty job. My neighbours probably thought 'look at this nut-bag under his car covered in muddy water!'.
All in all, I estimate that I got a conservative 5 kilos of mud, stones, and leaf litter out of the chassis. Amazing what gets trapped in there.

Along with my existing 6-or-so monthly INOX MX-4 Lanox treatment of the nuts and bolts around the car, I'll probably aim to flush the chassis and put penetrol thru it on an annual basis. Or be more dilligent when I go thru mud holes to flush what I can out as soon as possible [thumbsupbig].
While I was using andy's venturi type suction spray rig with a garden sprinkler type fan nozzle on it, for the average punter, I found that a normal old spray bottle with the adjustable stream/spray nozzle on it would reach a lot of the chassis internals with minimal outlay. The penetrol mists up really well, and has a volatile component which looks to mist off at normal temperatures. So to this end, I think just going to town with a spray bottle would work reasonably well for those wanting to do the job, but not want the outlay for all the spray-painting accoutrements.
I'm planning to spray a can of fish oil inside my rear cross member and chassis tomorrow.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I'm planning to spray a can of fish oil inside my rear cross member and chassis tomorrow.

I've never used fish oil, but heard from a mate that a mix of fish oil and Automatic trans fluid is good. The ATF helps it cling and climb into the nooks and crannies, so I'm told.

[cuppabillytea]

In my industry Fish oil has been used extensively especially in hard to reach places.
Advantages: It remains clear so you can see whats going on underneath it.
I does protect the metal surfaces and prevent corrosion for a while.
Disadvantages: It stinks.
You have to monitor it.(which is fine if you make it part of your Planed Maintenance Schedule.)
It's sticky, so it retains dirt and grit.

[Toxic_Avenger]

The wiring bug has bitten again.
I've been sitting on a traxide headlight wiring upgrade kit for about a year now (it was quite uncomfortable), but had put off install for a few reasons, those being
1) My lights were still working
2) I've got quite a few other wiring 'side jobs' to tidy up at the same time.

This last week, I've seen the light. Install was GO.

I had a thread with some preliminary questions about the headlight relays, specifically where people have mounted them. You can have a read of it if you wish, >>Here<< (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/248560-defender-headlight-relay-upgrade-mounting-location.html)

I had some ideas in my head about where to mount the New Era headlight relays (3 off), and I knew I wouldn't really be happy with them in the engine bay, and really didn't want to drill into the guards (exposed screws in the wheel well etc). I also wanted them to be as high as possible for the inevitable mud and grime that finds its way into the engine bay. Relays don't play well with mud.

One idea I took home from that thread I started was Austastar's idea of mounting the relays to a plate that bolts inside the sheel arch.
This also lent itself to a idea where I could make this almost entirely removable, and easily backwards compatible with the existing headlights. It also helps that I'd be able to wire most of it on the bench, rather than on the vehicle. I'm a sucker for being neat.


DodgybracketV2.0 preoject commence.

This project called for rapid prototyping- pizza box engineering at its finest (complete with grease stains)!
Within a solid 15 minutes and a few crude measurements it was cut up and ready for a trial fit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/662.jpg


The arts and crafts eventually gave way to some harder work- 1.6mm (iirc) gal sheet with a few holes to suit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/663.jpg

The holes were drilled to replicate the horn mounting hole, and the hole for the anti-rotation tab on the horn bracket. The horn bracket is the first mounting point for this bracket.

Relays are to mount thusly:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/664.jpg

With a bit of the old in-out, in-out, I wang-jangled a few more 9mm holes into the plate to accept M6 nutserts for the relay mounting, as well as adding 2 additional holes in the plate for mounting - making a total of 3 fasteners to hold this bracket steadfast within the headlight recess bucket (It will mount on the face of the headlight bucket on the longitudinal axis of the vehicle). It's surprisingly sturdy in this location.


A bit of scotch brite, and a scrub, followed by paint (etch primer then my favourite matte epoxy enamel) and the world was good!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/665.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/666.jpg
I sanded 2 of the riv nuts as they are earth points for the whole assembly. There is also another earth cable which runs up to the radiator support bracket (tests OK at 0.05 Ohms resistance... good enough for me I guess)


Stay tuned for part 2...

[Tombie]

Excellent work..
Not a fan of the side mounted relay though mate..

[Toxic_Avenger]

Deuce - Wiring it all up
With the bracket complete, I was ready for wiring. So I danced the time warp, and the whole thing magically unpainted itself. How neat is that?!
Must have been a rip in the space-time continuum. Nevertheless the show went on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/656.jpg

Most of the wirng was done on the bench. I was aiming for a compact footprint, with a module that could be easily removed from the vehicle - either for service, or for reverting back to the OE design of full power thru the switch.
Reasoning for this (as good as the traxide kit is), was that if SHTF, I can simply unplug the H4 sockets, and smash 'em back into the globes as needed, then rip the whole lot out of the car for an autposy. Call it pedantic, or obsessive compulsive... you decide.

To make it all the more difficult, I added an additional new era relay to the affray for running the LED light bars on the roof, as well as some future lighting requirements. With LED's these days, the current draw is relatively low compared to halogen or HID, so the whole new twin channel 30A relay was probably overkill, but it doens't hurt to have some tricks up your sleeve.

As I said, wiring for the relays was predominantly done on the bench. Bugger this wiring on the vehicle caper. Most of this was done with pink floyd's greatest hits on the youtube, with an evening snack and wires EVERYWHERE.

(Not really a) BOOZ REVOOZ

Coffee and chocolate. For the win. Also novelty tin cup from eastern europe.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/657.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/658.jpg

Wiring was done over a few nights, mostly just at a leisurely pace.
Here, the relay earths, OE headlight (signal) feed is wired up the the headlight relay, and headlight and driving light outputs wired up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/659.jpg

Almost there...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/660.jpg

Ready for isntall into the vehicle:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/661.jpg

The switching is done vie the Orange 3 core cable on the LHS of the bracket. This terminates in a 3 pin deutsch plug, and joins with the vehicle loom that goes to the LED roof lights (black cable with blue bullet connectors- yeah, In know, sue me), and some extra signal wires that go to the switch panel in the cab. The "drv light" relay RHS mounting point also doubles as the earth, and there is a back earth wire danglilng off the side of the above pic.
I went all out and put some pinch seal on the ends of the plate before install. IT was a bit sharp in places, and I don't really dig wires being cut in half if I can help it.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Part, um, three- The horror... The horror

Many posts back - probably september 2016, I installed a 3 gang carling switch panel in the dash. The plan was to have this as the light switches, because the previous owner had these poxy little microswitches taped to the dash which were a pain to use, and a pain to se whether they were on or off. Without visually checking the lights or it being dark enough to see, it was impossible to tell whether all the lights were on, or none at all.
A pox on ye:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/649.jpg


I'm led to believe that a big box 4wd accessory store did a lot of the fitout of this car, possibly even the lighting wiring, although I hope not. By the state of affairs, it may as well have been the apprentice, as there were electrical sins everywhere throughout the install. Allow me to demonstrate:

Power feed to the switches in the cab. Who dooesn't love a scotch lock?! [bigwhistle]
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/650.jpg

The yellow wire from the scotch lock was conveniently zip tied to the radiator overflow tube. Neatly stowed in the engine bay.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/651.jpg

Inside the cab, the switch wiring was equally amateur. Too much wire? Just zip tie it and stuff it somewhere where the owner won't find it!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/652.jpg
I was surprised it was even fused. Probably because there were fuses in the kit that they threw at the car, hoping that the parts might stick...

From the switches in the cab, the wired sent back out the firewall, and across the firewall to the Passenger side guard. More bundles of wires here. Oh Joy.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/653.jpg
The relay is near the windshield water reservoir, to its left, is a big bundle of wires from the battery box.
To its right, it the ubiquitous bundle of yellow wires zip tied to the AC piping. Thanks. Just thanks.
...at least I have some nice scraps of wire to use for other little projects.

Another relay... this one for the roof lights... was stashed on the radiator support mount. I promptly removed this, and its bundle of wire, and made it my new earth point for the driving lights and headlights (this was the one that I ohm checked as being ok).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/654.jpg

So yeah, needless to say, the wiring which was either comissioned or done by the previous owner was overdue for removal.
The same flavour of wiring was seen in the rear of the vehicle with the aftermarket speakers which were installed. If you can't remember, I removed approx 6m of speaker wire in a neat little zip tied bundle from behind the rear speaker panel.


In any case, I'm not sad to see it all gone. It probably should have been done properly the first time.

[cuppabillytea]

Nothing wrong with Bullet Connectors Mitch. They hardly ever fail except when you need them most. Anyway a bit of a fight and a twist usually puts 'em right. All good fun eh?

[Toxic_Avenger]

Part quattro. A few more tweaks of my own.

Part of the headlight relay kit was a 50A auto reset circuit breakers.
I applied the 'the more the merrier' principle with this, as I was running another relay, I sourced another equivalent part- Narva p/n54850- Circuit breaker, 50A automatic reset.

I'm getting sick of drilling holes in the battery box, as it's getting rather full. So I opted for this- aniother great product from 3M. VHB tape.
If anyone out there has heard the expression 'sticks like **** to a blanket', then this stuff is stickier. It's uses in the 'real world' include sticking architectural glass into skyscrapers, sign installs etc. It's incredibly tough.
I did some science last year, and stuck two pieces of aluminium together with approx 18cm2 of VHB tape. I could not pull it apart. And believe me, I tried. I froze it down to negative 80 celsius, and only then could it be removed, but not without a fight. But I digress...

From this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/641.jpg

To this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/642.jpg

Seamless segue!
Introducing the negative bus bar.
I had earth cables stacked on earth cables, and this should relieve this.
Now, all earths in the battery box (winch negative, body earth, safetyhub fuse block earth) all mount to this bus, and then I have a link between the starting and min battery, and one link between the main battery and the negative bus. It's a much neater way to do it.

You can see how it looked before:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/643.jpg

This also has the benefit of allowing battery disconnect with 1 cable as opposed to 3. The puma can be a bit cantakerous with the battery disconnect sequence, and I haven't had problems with it, but this will mean I can easily hit that 17s disconnect window after unlocking the car.



As for the remaining wiring for the headlight upgrade, this was done on the car.

From the circuit breakers, the 2x 6bs traxide supplied battery power cables were fed into split conduit. The cable run goes like this:
Thru the front grommet, and zip tied to the starter motor cable.
It parts off just after the front chassis outrigger (under firewall) and ducks behind the bracket which supports the passenger footwell.
It then runs up the wheel arch, fitting between the AC blower motor and the wing panel, where it is zip tied to the existing wiring loom.
I made new 6mm holes in the (puma Plastic) wheel arch, and used these nifty fir tree zip ties to secure the loom over the wheel arch (it's way easier to run this with the wheel falre removed- trust me, I tried).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/644.jpg
From there, the cables are where they are needed in the passenger wing area, behind the headlight.
I also added some 7-core wire from here to go back to the battery box. This will be able to tie accessories into the safetyhub fuse box in the battery box. I should never have to run a wire again! How good is that?!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/645.jpg


The power gets tapped into the B pins on the relays, and the roof light and relay coil switching cables go back to the roof / cab respectively. It traces the power supply loom from the battery box, but diverges at the top of the wheel arch and goes along the fron of the firewall.

Roof light power output from the relay is just bullet connectors. Allows easy disconnect without too much faffing about. Total amp draw would be about 5A for the roof lights, so should not be a huge problem.
Earth for the roof lights is this nifty earth point in the middle of the firewall, beside the ECM, on the passenger side.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/646.jpg

And here it all all pretty much installed:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/647.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/648.jpg


Can be removed via the headlight hole:
1) Disconenct battery
2) Remove headlight trim and headlight (takes about 3 minutes)
3) Remove 3 bolts for the headlight relay bracket, also undo bullet connectors for roof lights, undo 3 pin deutsch plug for the switch signal wires to the relay coils
4) Remove via headlight hole. Once it's out, undo the 2x power feed from the battery.
5) The OE headlight loom can be reconnected as required.


Some time thru the week I'll make the final 3 connections for the carling switches to get the roof lights and driving lights operational.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Excellent work..
Not a fan of the side mounted relay though mate..

Hmmm I see.
Are your concerns aesthetic or technical?

[jon3950]

The horror indeed, otherwise known as the curse of the previous owner.

A+ for neatness on your stuff though. Looking good.

Cheers,
Jon

[Tombie]

Hmmm I see.
Are your concerns aesthetic or technical?

Aesthetic partly..

Just make sure the relay can drain sitting at 90 degrees.. or it may fill up...

[Surrufus]

This also has the benefit of allowing battery disconnect with 1 cable as opposed to 3. The puma can be a bit cantakerous with the battery disconnect sequence, and I haven't had problems with it, but this will mean I can easily hit that 17s disconnect window after unlocking the car.


Puma Defenders have a battery disconnect sequence?

Also I love your work!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yeah mate.
1) Lock car.
2) Unlock car
3) Disconnect battery earth within 17s (according to fsm)
4) when you reconnect the key fob won't work. You need to start engine before you can use the fob. I think it need to recode itself or something... I'll dig up some info tonight .

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yeah mate.
1) Lock car.
2) Unlock car
3) Disconnect battery earth within 17s (according to fsm)
4) when you reconnect the key fob won't work. You need to start engine before you can use the fob. I think it need to recode itself or something... I'll dig up some info tonight .


Amendment to above- FSM recommends:
1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2) Loosen the nut.
3) Turn the ignition key to the run position.
4) Turn the ignition key to the off position.
5) Within 17 seconds of turning the ignition key to the
off position, release the battery ground cable from
the battery.


So locking / unlocking not necessary. Cycle between Run and Off key positions before disconnect within 17s.

[cuppabillytea]

I didn't know that. Lucky nothing bad happened when I did it.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Achievement get: 3years of defender ownership as of 07.05.2017.

[cuppabillytea]

Achievement get: 3years of defender ownership as of 07.05.2017.

Give the boy a Kewpie Doll.

Congratulations Mitch. Mine was last Christmas eve.

[jon3950]

I didn't know that. Lucky nothing bad happened when I did it.

I must admit to being guilty of knowing about it, but still ignoring it completely every time I disconnect the battery. Can't say I've ever had a problem with it.

Cheers,
Jon

[4wheeler]

Amendment to above- FSM recommends:1) Disconnect the battery ground cable.2) Loosen the nut.3) Turn the ignition key to the run position.4) Turn the ignition key to the off position.5) Within 17 seconds of turning the ignition key to theoff position, release the battery ground cable fromthe battery.So locking / unlocking not necessary. Cycle between Run and Off key positions before disconnect within 17s.
I think the amendment needs an amendment.[bigsmile1]
Delete item 1 as this is a heading for the procedure. The procedure is:
1)Loosen the nut of the ground cable. (don't disconnect yet).
2)Turn the ignition key to the run position.
3)Turn the ignition key to the off position.
4)Within 17 seconds of turning the ignition key to theoff position, release the battery ground cable from the battery.
This is the procedure in the workshop manual.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yeah, I read it and thought it sounded a bit odd. Guilty of the old copypasta from the FM (as in RTFM).
It's like the old story about how to disarm a bomb- 1) Cut the red and blue wires. 2) But first, cut the black wire.
The devil is in the detail.

[Toxic_Avenger]

This afternoon, I wired up the carling switches in the cab. I had it all labelled up and a wiring guide I'd done, so it was a simple matter of attaching a few wires for the switching side of the relays-
1) 12V feed for switch- I picked this up off fuse 17 (High beam headlight) under the steering column.
2) Illumination circuit- for the carling switches lighting when lights are on , and to indicate switch status. Picked 12V up off fuse 13- dash illumination under steering column
3) Earth... plenty of those around. I was going to use the earth point on the firewall behind the dash, but may consider it when I'm there next. Mounted to the fuse board under steering column for now.

I also used the add-a-fuse jumpers for the switches. I'll look at hard wiring it some time in the future. But for now it works and is operational. The installer of the radio just jammed a spade terminal in any old fuse alongside the blade fuse... D'oh. I'll get around to righting that wrong sooner or later, I'm sure.
I had to run a few extra wires between the relays and dash (for the additional relay), as the extra relay output is not being used by the roof lights. I didn't exactly follow the traxide wiring for this part of the isntall, but it's just a duplication of what was already there.

Pleased to say, that all the wiring over the past few posts all works as intended.

New switch setup. Red matches the MUD led dome lights. You know, for teh night visions.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/587.jpg

[4wheeler]

Yeah, I read it and thought it sounded a bit odd. Guilty of the old copypasta from the FM (as in RTFM).
It's like the old story about how to disarm a bomb- 1) Cut the red and blue wires. 2) But first, cut the black wire.
The devil is in the detail.

Hi Mitch,
The manual is not very clear in many places. The battery disconnect reads poorly in the manual.

I had forgotten there was a sequence and your post reminded me about it. I have just been disconnecting battery leads and not even thinking about it. Luckily no ill effects so far. I will try to remember to follow what the manual says just in case.

Excellent work on the wiring. I must admit you have encouraged me to look at tidying up some of the wiring on my Defender as some of it sadly looks like the photos of the wiring on your Defender before you sorted it. Live and learn.

Keep up the good work.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Just a little mod to the driving lights.
The wiring from the headlight bodies in the IPF Xtreme units I have was a bit anaemic, and the connectors on the loom were not something that I could easily adapt to work with the 12 gauge (2.05mm2) wiring that was to feed them. The task was to put a new connector on the wiring leading to the driving lights, and re-wire the internals of the lights to take bigger wiring, and work with the 12 gauge wiring.

The traxide kit has some spade terminals and white plug bodies to use, but I'm not a fan of them- how they look or how they are likely to collect mud, water and other things that hit the front of my car. As you've probably noticed, It's perpetually in a bit of a dirty state :wasntme:

I've had a good run with Deutsch connectors in the past, and thought it was a good opportunity to 'step up' from the DTM series plugs to the DTP series for this little job. The DTM series is good for 16 gauge wire (ie your '10A and 15A' rated wires at your parts store, and can take about 10A per pin thru the plug. The DTP series takes 12 gauge wire (2.05mm2), and can take 25A. All deutsch DTM/DTP series are weatherproof, and skookum as frig. I like them. You mother likes them. What's not to love?

Deutsch are probably the connector of choice for harsh conditions, factory fitted for harley davidson, CAT and lots of other gear. Deutsch also make some real cool panel mount connectors which might make an appearance in some future mods to the ex box. Still haven't decided if I'll go mild (ie getting accessory power into and out of ex box) or wild (ie full quick disconnect of OE wiring loom from ex box). I'll give it some thought in due course. Someone step up and be my guinea pig please?


Anyway, TL;DR:

Couldn't easily change this on the light:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/544.jpg

So soldered on some 12 gauge wire like so:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/545.jpg
This gave me thicker wire closer to the light globe, but also allowed me to use decent spec sealed connectors on wire of the same diameter on both sides of the join.

Deutsch plug goodness, with none of the bad stuff
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/546.jpg
Crimping the lugs down and assembling these connectors is strangely therapeutic.

Works good:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/547.jpg


I also need to re-align the driving lights. Any tips here? I've got a pencil beam on the Driver's side, and a spread beam on the passenger side. Just eyeballing it, I've got the spread beam slightly to the LHS (maybe 1 or 2 degrees), and the pencil beam as dead on as I can manage by eye. Eyeballed the Y axis to parallell with road as best as I can manage.
Ideally I'd be able to shine against a wall at distance or something, similar to how headlights are aligned. Thoughts / strategies on this appreciated.



BONUS PIC!

Some measurements for the relay mounting plate I made. Your milage may vary - not sure how precise LR manufacture/assembly is in this part of the vehicle, but this is what worked for me. Probably about the biggest plate you can squeeze thru the headlight hole.
Material was 1.6mm gal sheet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/548.jpg

2 holes should be drilled to M7, and are for the horn mounting bracket to bolt to. Fit the plate, then drill a few more holes along the RHS line to allow extra points of attachment if desired. I used riv nuts on the plate, however nuts welded on, or heaven forbid tek screws would work.

Until next time,
thank your mother for the rabbits.

[jon3950]

Here are my thoughts on setting up driving lights. I'm really anal about this and I will usually spend ages getting it right. All just my opinion of course and others may disagree, but this is based on setting up many different sets of lights on various road and rally cars over the last 35 years of driving (and rallying). This is what I have found works for me for the type of driving I do.

My first piece of advice is to ditch the spot. Having one spot and one spread gives you the worst of both worlds. Spots are really only any good for long straight roads such as out west. On any normal road (you know, one with bends and that) with one spot you end up with a bright circle of light that appears to head off in random directions relative to your direction of travel. I also think having one relatively bright area tends to make you stare at it whereas a broad even spread of light encourages you to look around. One spread doesn't really give you enough width to cover both sides of the road for a reasonable distance (ie from near the car to far away). Again, when going around corners the light is too narrow and heads off in a different direction to where you want to look. For the area you live in and the type of driving I suspect you would generally use these for, a pair of spreads would be a much better option. A small bright patch of light being thrown a few kilometres down the road may impress some people but they are ****house to drive behind unless you're crossing the Nullabor. A broad even spread of light is much easier to drive behind in most circumstances.

As for the alignment, this really depends on the shape of the beam and what sort of driving you use them for. For example the way I like to set the lights up on the rally cars is to angle one driving beam slightly up and one slightly down because you spend a lot of time going over crests and through dips. Then we have a pair of very wide spread or cornering beams angled across the car, ie the left hand light shines to the right, so that you get some light in the direction you're travelling when you're going sideways. I avoid spots because I find them very distracting as they move all over the scenery. Besides there's really no point in seeing a long way as all you see is trees. This setup is no good for normal road driving though. With a pair of spreads I try to point them out to the sides just very slightly to get as wide a spread as possible but without getting any darker areas ahead. How much you can point them out will depend on the shape of the beam, in reality its generally not much if any at all as you still want the bulk of the light heading straight up the road.

The trouble with a spot and spread combo is you are limited on what you can do (refer diatrabe above). Unless you live in an area where you only ever go around left hand bends and all the roos jump out from the left, all you can really do is point them straight up the road.

A lot of this is stating the obvious but the only way to do it is to get out on a long, flat, straight bit of road. A paddock or carpark is no good as the lights need something to reflect off - you want to see the sides of the road. Set one lamp at a time, either disconnect one or stand in front of it while you're adjusting the other. Set them up so they look as far up the road as possible without pointing to the sky. Don't point them down too much so you have a bright spot on the road in front of the car as this will kill your distance vision.

Then drive around with a spanner in the car for a few months so you can make adjustments. You'll never get it right the first time.

Cheers,
Jon

[Toxic_Avenger]

Great info thanks Jon. Many things that I hadn't even thought of before you wrote them- the one light angled slightly up and one slightly down is a good idea.
While I probably don't need as many lights as a rally car, I find what the previous owner fitted to the car works well enough for the times I need them.

Took my first night drive last night to test the new light relay setup on road. Seems to be brighter. Can't really quantify it much more than than.

[rangieman]

We all have different ideas on what lights to run and each to their own [wink11]
For adjusting d/lights i get some cardboard folded to cover each head light and one for a d/light.
I go find a isolated back road cover my head lights with the card board and one d/light and start the process of adjustment of either d/light.
I like my 2 hid IPF spots it works for me as i find your headlights on H/beam light up the side of the road enough , When im doing 100 ks + I like to see a fare way in front as well as the side of the road .
When i ordered my d/lights i had to make it specific i wanted 2 spots as you only got the combo in spread and spot.
As i say what works for you or floats ya boat it is not gospel only personal preference in my opinion[tonguewink]

[jon3950]

And I'm sure you won't be the last to disagree with me either. :BigThumb:

As I said it is what I have found to work for me for the driving I do, which is why I tried to put a big disclaimer at the top of the post - we all have different experience.

I'm not trying to suggest there's anything wrong with using two spots if it suits the type of driving you do and of course there are situations where it will be better. I've just never found a single spot to be a good solution.

Cheers,
Jon

[jon3950]

I've had a good run with Deutsch connectors in the past, and thought it was a good opportunity to 'step up' from the DTM series plugs to the DTP series for this little job. The DTM series is good for 16 gauge wire (ie your '10A and 15A' rated wires at your parts store, and can take about 10A per pin thru the plug. The DTP series takes 12 gauge wire (2.05mm2), and can take 25A. All deutsch DTM/DTP series are weatherproof, and skookum as frig. I like them. You mother likes them. What's not to love?

Deutsch are probably the connector of choice for harsh conditions, factory fitted for harley davidson, CAT and lots of other gear. Deutsch also make some real cool panel mount connectors which might make an appearance in some future mods to the ex box. Still haven't decided if I'll go mild (ie getting accessory power into and out of ex box) or wild (ie full quick disconnect of OE wiring loom from ex box). I'll give it some thought in due course. Someone step up and be my guinea pig please?


I may put my hand up for that as I've been thinking along similar lines. I've got a few other wiring jobs that need some connectoring and the Deutsch stuff keeps appealing to me. However I keep getting put off by needing another several crimping tools whereas the AMP superseal stuff I usually reach for can be crimped with one of my existing collection. Have you spent a small fortune on crimping tools or have you found a way to adapt and overcome using a more conventional tool?


Cheers,
Jon

[Toxic_Avenger]

Deutsch make a connector with the AMP style 'non insulated' crimp style terminals that you know and love.
The crimp tools can be had online relatively cheaply (<$40), and TBH, you only really need a size 16 for the DTM terminals (which will be most of what you'd do on a car), and the size 12 crimp tool for the DTP series. 16 and 12 relate to the AWG size. Main issue is to match the wire gauge with the correct pin size and plug.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Pointless update.
Not much has been happening. It has been a solid two weeks without tinkering. I'm getting itchy fingers.

Headlight relays are working well. Had a birthday, had a flu, had no mods to install... so things have been quiet.
Spent a whole day cleaning up the cluster**** of wiring, tools, and mess that I'd managed to create from the last project- so the other half is a bit more agreeable now that the house and man-cave (her home office / study / my makeshift shed) is in some degree of cleanliness. I need a rent-a-shed. Is there even such a thing?! Heck, I'd even time-share! FirstWorldProblems

Not sure on next mods. Either a bombed-out Transfer-case with some goodies inside, or a BAS tune kit with the intercooler. Decisions...

[Rig110]

You had a birthday and got no mods :( :( :(
I love my BAS remap!!! Hugely different car!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yes, I've driven a few with the tune and it is a completely different beast.
I'm not sure if it's wise to throw more power at a car when the leaky intermediate shaft and MT-82 adapter shaft is in a bit of an unknown state though.
Brain says T-case needs some love. Bum dyno wants the POWAHHHH. Wallet says 'will this crap ever end?!'

[cuppabillytea]

Happy Birthday Mitch. whenever it was.
By the way, you are in the New World not the First World. It's like the First World but shinier, relatively corrosion free and minus the ruts. Well, that is apart from the ones you seem to find so easily.
Either or both of those mods will give you much joy.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Was under the car today. You know. Admiring and such...
When suddenly!
A wild mechanical failure appears!


https://youtu.be/WzasO_n6JIU

Turns out the front RHS sway bar drop link nut has fallen off. Somewhere.
I was driving today and took a corner a bit fast, and noticed things felt especially sketchy (and that's saying something from a 90 owner!). Surprisingly there was no particularly loud clunks as the sway bar hit different parts under the car.
The other side was merely finger tight. Tools not required!!!

I'm now running without a front sway bar until I either get a big nut (lolz) or decide to run long-term without.
I'm thinking the latter, unless it's not advised.

[DiscoMick]

Rent A Shed Pty Limited.. Self Storage Labrador

3 Jacob Dr, Labrador QLD 4215
(07) 5529 0057

Rent A Shed Pty Limited.. Self Storage Labrador - Google Search (https://g.co/kgs/ye2uiK)

[Toxic_Avenger]

Just checking in for another month.

I removed the front sway bar. DealWithIt.jpeg

Got stuck on some logs in the bush
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/258.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/259.jpg

Got the winch to stall Minor victory- didn't melt anything! - I was hung up pretty bad. Managed to bend the front radius arm bracket slightly (just cosmetic- no change to suspension geometry), and also tweaked the exhaust a bit... so it's now rattling a bit on the chassis. A bit of persuasion with the good ol' size 10 has stopped it rattling for now.

Had a blast at the inaugural 'Thunderbolt's thaw-out'TM at Hanging rock back in July. Event link here (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/upcoming-events/249871-nundle-nsw-winter-camping-wheeling-nsws-wombat.html), Event recap here. (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/nsw-and-act-reports/251659-nundle-weekend-pics.html) Check it out next year!!! Or don't. I don't care.

No shenanigans, I swear
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/704.jpg


The next morning was a bit chilly.
http://i.imgur.com/nLpQ7bL.gifv (http://imgur.com/nLpQ7bL)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/260.jpg

Drove up and down the Devil's staircase. The mule owned it- although conditions were much better than the freshly graded surface and 40mm rain, which ruined me last time...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/261.jpg

Saw a mine shaft etc (Props to Perry for the stolen pic)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/262.jpg

Other than that the vehicle is going well.
No real mods on the cards for the immediate future (although watchi this space!).
T-case is still leaking (minor- in land rover terms, severe if you ask a Toyota driver), but I'm not too worried yet. It's still lubricating my driveway, so as long as it's dripping, it still has fluid inside for the gears etc. win/win

Hoping to make a weekend up north-west to the bore baths some time while it's still cool enough to make it worthwhile. Maybe Pilliga, maybe Burren Junction. Probably pilliga, given that it's less crowded with grey nomads, and there is a pub within stumbling distance of the camp site.
There is also some wheeling with some mates planned for down newcastle way in the coming month, so will try get some footage.

[D90 orkney]

I'm running zero sway bars. It is a bit different. But you get used to it. I imagine a 110 would be a nightmare on cornering without sway bars

[87County]

.... I imagine a 110 would be a nightmare on cornering without sway bars

I cannot understand why you would "imagine" that for 110s orks, Perentie 110s have no rear "sway" bars, most County 110s have had them removed & tdi 110 Defenders didn't have 'em either AFAIK .... :)

[D90 orkney]

I cannot understand why you would "imagine" that for 110s orks, Perentie 110s have no rear "sway" bars, most County 110s have had them removed & tdi 110 Defenders didn't have 'em either AFAIK .... :)

i mean if they didn't have a front sway bar I should have said. Because it being longer I would have thought cornering would be worse then a 90. If it's not im more then happy to stand corrected. I guess what kind of coils you run make a difference too. I was running heavy duty on my old suspension and it felt awesome on road. I've gone way softer and with no sway bars it has changed on road feel a lot. Nothing too bad but it's definetly different. I have learnt how to drive accordingly. So I thought being a longer truck would make it worse.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Spent the weekend down south, wheeling was had at the watagan state forest and the killingsworth area (part of the killy loop).
Much fun had. Nothing broken. Got a few hektic habib angles, and a few o**** moments.

Pics to come!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Last weekend, 19.08.2017, a few mates, my brother, and I went to the Watagan forest for some wheeling.

Even though I grew up just a 20-or-so kilometers from there, I've never had the chance to wheel it. I can now say I was impressed- there sure is some fun to be had up there.

It took some time to find something worth driving, but eventually came across some tracks which I now know are the wishing well track, and the 5-ways track, the latter which is near the start of greens break road. There are plenty of youtube videos on those tracks if you want to search them out.

Wishing Well Track
This track starts near the wishing well on the Martinsville road, and extends up past the hairpin bend to the wishing well picnic area.
It's a bit rutted, rocky in places, and a good (albeit short) technical drive.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/685.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/686.jpg

Got a bit of air-time
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/687.jpg

60 series cruiser for scale:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/688.jpg

Bob took a different line to me, as I was able to get to the high side and miss this big step and tree in the way.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/689.jpg

The crew and I stopped for a bite for lunch at the top
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/690.jpg


5-Ways
This is down the hill from the wishing well area. It's a soft sandstone climb with many lines to choose from.
I always find it a bit unnerving when it's an open expanse of track without the 'comfort' of ruts, embankments and trees nearby.
Things got a bit interesting, but the mule handled it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/691.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/692.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/693.jpg


Here's a bit of an idea of the angles involved.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/694.jpg


*****

After a bit of a play at the Wattos, we headed back down the mountain to some more familiar territory. We tackled a few obstacles at the Killy Loop near Killingsworth.
Anyone who's driven the M1 motorway near the Toronto / Freeman's Waterhole area (or as I like to call it- the F3 ), you'd have seen the tracks unde rhte HV transmission lines in the area. Under these, and in the surrounding bushes is the killy loop, accessible from The Boulevarde / Killingsworth Rd near the electrical substation.
We ended up following the power lines to the M1 underpass, then followed the lines south towards Cockle creek. From there, we passed into the bush towards the feature known as 'the waterfall', and then up and down a few more tracks for the rest of the afternoon.

Highlights below:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/695.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/696.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/697.jpg

Had a bit of fun in the ruts:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/698.jpg

Flashback! Late 2016, on my last group trip to the killy loop - a guy (can't remember his name) drove the waterfall in his 60 series. Epic climb.
This waterfall is a rock ledge approx 3m tall, with a narrow crevasse entry. Definitely not for the faint of heart!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6flu090A9A




So all in all, had a great weekend getting back to my roots as a Lake Macquarie Westie, wheeling in my old stomping ground.

[rangieman]

Looks good Mitch[thumbsupbig]
Has that sixty in your group been bobbed a better shot might be good of it[wink11]

[Toxic_Avenger]

I'll see if I have anything.
It has had 400mm chopped out of the rear. Same wheelbase.
My mate jokingly calls it a 'Japanese short-body'. It's surprising how many people nod and think it's an actual variant!

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Aj5UH3yyLw

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/720.jpg


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Do1JjYzfbCM

[rangieman]

I'll see if I have anything.
It has had 400mm chopped out of the rear. Same wheelbase.
My mate jokingly calls it a 'Japanese short-body'. It's surprising how many people nod and think it's an actual variant!
Thank`s [thumbsupbig] They have too much over hang from factory and that looks good for a yota[wink11]

[Toxic_Avenger]

Took him 7 years and parts from a few wrecks to get it that way. A true labour of love.
I'm still hoping he converts it back to the sprung over diffs on 37's like he had on the other one...
:firedevil:

[Toxic_Avenger]

Last weekend I dipped into the old annual leave balance to secure 2 days off around a weekend. The agenda-Rustle up the old man and mother dearest, and head north to 'da ridge'.

After a mid-morning departure, and a rendezvous in Gunnedah, caught up with the olds and headed NNW to Narrabri NSW for some fuel. We then headed due east along the Yarrie Lake rd from Narrabri, via the Australian National telescope array (https://www.narrabri.atnf.csiro.au/) to Pilliga NSW for our first night.

Camp is a basic affair, flushing steel toilet, gravel / dirt campsites and a $5 per vehicle charge. But the best part- Bore baths at approx 41 degrees! Awesome!
Here was the camp for the night (or maybe it's just me showing off the pelican cases... you decide)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/411.jpg

My old boy was in his cruiser- the faithful family steed since it was new in 1998. It is the current advendure rig, now that a MY '16 200 series has taken the stable. We also caught up with some other friends in their rodeo. A good night was had by all- spent between the campfire, and the bore baths with a few longnecks and wines to keep the party going.


The next morning we broke camp, and parted ways with the Rodeo crew, heading north along the Bugilbone rd to Burren Junction- the site of another bore bath.
Being that it was only a few hours since my last dip, I declined a swim here, instead, we pressed on north to Walgett- braving the wildlings on our route to 'the ridge'.

But first, a photo op at Cryon NSW- a prominent wheat growing region in the Walgett shire. It always astounds me how flat and barren this place can look between crops.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/412.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/413.jpg

Before too long, Walgett was reached, and conquered. Fuel was dispensed (and paid for!), and we pressed forth to Lightning ridge- Black opal country.

Stopped by to say G'day to old mate Stan the Emu along the way.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/414.jpg
G'day Stan.

Shortly after, we reached the town monument at 'da ridge'
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/415.jpg

Obligatory Bottle-o stop was made.
FG Port was purchased.
It was FNG.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/416.jpg

Shennanigans ensued.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/417.jpg
She's a frog jockey, but she's MY frog jockey

One does not simply go to lightning ridge and sit around.
Firstly, there is the Lightning Ridge Artesian Bore bath. Not too shabby.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/447.jpg
Water here was very warm- about 45 or so- got a good sweat going after a few minutes, before I had to get out to cool down.


After that, we did a few of the car door tours (self guided tours) to see some of the sights around the Lightning Ridge opal fields. Some highlights below:

[B]Amigo's castle:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/448.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/418.jpg
Amigo's castle. Built by an Italian. By hand. Go figure!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/419.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/420.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/421.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/422.jpg
Amigo built this thing by hand - scabbing rocks from around the township, and lifting them by hand into their final resting spots, using a scaffold of 44 gal drums and planks. We had a good chat to Anita (the tour guide), who told us how the building (castle!) was almost demolished after council contested the legality of the building... but after a hasty town meeting, it was listed as a heritage site so was spared the wrecking ball!

You have gotta love the humour out at the ridge. Classic Australian.


Next stop,
The cave of the black hand:
This is an opal mine which was not particularly profitable, hence the mine owner (who incidentally, was a fairly good sculptor) decided to make a tourist attraction of it.
Within his 50x50m lease, there is a heap of carvings of all kinds of popular icons, people etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/423.jpg
Mmmmm Bacon!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/424.jpg
I ey ey.... wanna rock 'n roll all night... and party every day!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/425.jpg
Nice sculpture... But it needs some improvement...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/426.jpg
That'll do it. Touched by his noodly appendage.

This was the view from the surface
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/427.jpg



The next morning, we broke camp and commenced the homeward bound trip.
Instead of just heading south, we detoured via the REAL opal mining areas of the region The Grawin / Glengarry opal fields- and incidentally, home to two of what I consider to be, some very iconic pubs in the scrub:

The sheepyard hotel
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/428.jpg

Complete with bus stop
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/429.jpg

Train X-ing
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/430.jpg

Oh... and train (less rails)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/431.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/432.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/432.jpg


Next stop, The Glengarry Hilton

I'd love to do an overnight here some time. The atmosphere would be wild I reckon.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/433.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/434.jpg

Great spot for a cold one.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/435.jpg

Lunch was at the Grawin Opal Miner's Club in the scrub
Actually a golf course too...

Paid our respects to the Major Miner. Obligaroty 2-bob in his bucket for good luck
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/436.jpg

Also noticed he is fully plumbed betwixt the legs. Classic!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/437.jpg

Weather was fine, according to the Grawin weather rock:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/438.jpg

Burgers were good. Top feed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/439.jpg

All the while, the mule was chilling out in the shade.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/440.jpg


After all this fun, it was time to hit the road. It was in fact a 5.5hr trip back home to tamworth via Walgett, Cryon, Wee Waa, Narrabri, Boggabri (stop in Gins Leap), and finally Gunnedah.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/441.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/442.jpg

Fuel economy was approx 13.6L/100km averaged.
I fiddled with the tyre pressures, running 30psi cold / 36psi hot on the trip up, and returned on 43PSI cold / 48PSI hot on the return leg. Interestingly, only gained 0.3L/100km from the higher pressures.
Total fuel used was 140.41L
Average fuel cost was approx $1.31/litre.

[Pickles2]

Excellent post & pics Toxic.
Thanks for sharing, Pickles.

[cuppabillytea]

Great stuff yet again Mitch. Good to see you've made a dramatic improvement in your choice of traveling companion since Easter. [thumbsupbig]

[Toxic_Avenger]

Haha, cheers Billy. Our time together was special, but my own company beyond Broken hill left a bit to be desired. Both of me agree.

In other news, it's time for another

Intermission

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUDgtt-f5h0

Recently, I have been doing some work on the mighty 300zx. Tune out if you don't like Jap crap, but trust me, there is a point to the story.

I've got junk in the trunk, and a full 200,000km service kit to whack thru the dirty old girl...
This includes a new timing belt, auto tensioner, idlers, studs, water pump, Variable cam timing springs O rings etc, cam/crank seals and a crank sprocket. There's a bit of work there for a muppet like me.
I've also opted to put a new power steering pump and hoses thru it. The old pump was a bit grindy. Me no likey.
The Z is a whole other beast from the landy. For the uninitiated, the Nissan 300zx has a VG30DETT- a 3litre V6, DOHC Twin turbo intercooled engine. It was a great engine in its day, but its later years saw it in detuned states in a range of cars from the nissan maxima to the terrano. I've been playing with these engines in the N/A and Twin turbo guise for a while now, after I got my first Z in 2005.

So this is what it looked like part way thru disassembly. I'm aiming to get to the timing gear behind the black cover on the front of the engine.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/543.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/544.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/545.jpg
After about 3 hours, I'd cracked into the engine room- where the magic happens. Crank pulley came off surprisingly easily. I'm not the first person to defile this beast... it had an engine 'rebuild' in the mid naughties. The previous owner sold it to me with a fat stack of receipts... but it was rebuilt to relatively standard specs sadly. These things can and do make a respectable 600HP with the right stuff inside, and a good turbo/cam/tune combo.


Anyway. Getting to the point. Tight quarters. Very little room. Intake/turbo hoses everywhere. Can't even see the engine mounts or turbos if you try under all that V6 craziness. The below pic shows a flex head ratchet spanner in the bowels of the beast attempting to get off a hose clamp on the airbox to turbo intake tube. 1 freaking 32nd of a turn at a time...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/546.jpg

Anyhow, the point is that those that complain about working on a landy have another thing coming. I must be crazy with my choice of vehicles.



Because I can, I'll chuck in another...




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
TOOL REVIEW

Stud removers

Part of the job above, involved removing the studs which hold the timing belt idler pulleys. Apparently they can snap, and something to do with pistons touching valves or something can happen. I dunno... sounds like something to avoid. [bigwhistle]
Anyway, the blokes at Gasweld stitched me up with these nifty little stud removers. They operate on a roller bearing kind of deal, which cams onto, and grips a stud for removal.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/547.jpg

Now caveat emptor- this is not a feel-good review. There is merit in the tool, but in the hands of a ham-fisted numpty like your humble narrator, they can and do cause more damage than you'd hope.

Ummm yeah... this happened while attempting to torque the stud up to 50nm.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/548.jpg
Good idea, but poorly executed by yours truly.

Next time I'll stick to the double-nut method like a normal person. Lesson learned.

Anyhow, over the next few days and probably the weekend, I'll whack the cam seals thru the engine, replace the crank sprocket, fix the FUBAR'd stud (tap and die- need to get a M10x1.25, or thread file it), install the belt and time the engine up, all while trying to keep the auto tensioner in spec. Then it's a matter of reinstalling the radiator and all the other stuff that was removed.
Stat tuned for more trials and tribulations, with the (not-so)fairladyZ.


Here's a landy to keep it on-topic
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/549.jpg

[cuppabillytea]

What more can we say? Except: Nuts to you. [thumbsupbig]

[Toxic_Avenger]

Made more progress on the Z. Thought Id share another brain fart that happened.

The timing belt job is going smoothly- crank sprocket came off (unlike others, I didn't need to grind and cold chisel it off- Huge success!). Cam and crank seals went on without too much drama, but getting them off was a bit of an issue due to some deficiencies in my tool department.
A Professional seal puller was acquired, and seals were pulled. It even has a chrome shaft, and two size tips for any application!
The mind boggles.

This is where I was at:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/956.jpg

Anyhow,
Had Akula from this place over here on Saturday, where I was psychoanalyzed and probed on the peculiarities of my checklist and the method in which I went about the job (I was going off a cheat sheet that is on one of the Z32 wiki pages). I was going thru the items one by one, ticking things off as I went. I was a bit out of sequence with some tasks though, (ie going about putting on a crank pulley while the RTV gasket stuff was setting up, etc) which caused mark considerable consternation.
Anyway, the timing belt went on, and it came time to putting 125Nm into the intake cam sprocket bolt. With a bit of wang-jangling using the old timing belt as a bit of a grip to stop it spinning, it was done.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/957.jpg

Akula did a stellar job of noticing this- perished fuel injection hose. They mustn't make it like they used to- this is probably 6 years old (and less than 20,000km!)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/958.jpg
Glad we caught that in time!


Made my sacrifice to the gods of automobilia. I'm pretty sure it's down behind the headlight bucket. I'll fish it out 'one day'.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/959.jpg

Spent the rest of Saturday putting it all back together, timing covers, gasket goo on the thermostat housings, and a bit of a general clean-up.

Now... cue 0300hrs Sunday morning. I awake in a sweat- not only because it's still in the high 20's and dry wind, but because I have this brainwave... "Did I, or more importantly, didn't I, remove the tensioner bolt from the timing belt tensioner?!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/960.jpg
The Z uses one of these gadgets to keep the timing belt tight. It has a little M6 bolt to pre-tension the swing arm on the idler to keep it where it needs to be during install. This NEEDS to be removed once installed, and all the timing belt tolerances re met, otherwise it can vibrate out, fall straight down into the crank sprocket, and mince the timing belt to shreds, killing the engine in a very spectacular way. I don't need this in my life. And for the life of me, it dawned on me at 3am in the morning that I couldn't recall removing it.

Cue morning,
I get up, and blunder around looking amongst my tools and parts for the elusive M6 bolt with the "7" on the head, and a dab of white paint.
Nowhere to be found.
I keep looking. "Surely I'm not that DUMB?!" I think... I'd known this was a pitfall, and had it in my mind the whole time I'd been doing the job, but could not, for the life of me remember taking it out and thinking that it was good to go.
I review my checklist- adorned with yellow paint pen tick marks indicating I've dillligently completed that task. I note the 'remove stopper bolt from tensioner assembly' has a big fat tick beside it.
...but my heart sinks as I realise I'd had to do this portion of the work instructions twice to get the timing belt into the correct adjustment range- which involved putting the bolt back INTO the tensioner. Like a hilux driver, I exclaimed "BUGGER".
Removing the bolt is a bit of an ordeal- the timing covers are a 3 peice unit which need to come off in sequence, which also involved undoing all the gasket making for the thermostat housing that'd taken a good hour of jiggling to get right.
Enact Plan B. Off to superchep for some gasket sealant. They didn't have my preferred flavour. Jumped to Autobarn- another fine establishment- also out of the permatex thermostat and water pump housing RTV that I'd been using.
Enact Plan C. With 8mm socket and 5mm hex key in hand, I commenced undoing all the timing covers as best I could. Thankfully I had just enough wiggle room to remove the crank pulley, and jiggle the bottom cover out of the way enough to see what I was looking for.
BINGO. GOTCHA.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/961.jpg

With some unsuccessful attempts with a ratchet spanner, I'd grabbed my magnet on a stick, and thankfully it was loose enough to spin out by the force of magnetism alone. How DO magnets work, anyway?!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/962.jpg

TL;DR:
The brain works in strange ways. By the locating of, and removal of the timing belt tensioner bolt, I had avoided disaster, and prevented a failure that could have grenaded the engine. The mighty Z will live to see another (I hope), 100,000km before I do this again... That's if it doesn't burn itself to the ground before this time.

[87County]

Hey Mitch, before you torque anything up, consider cleaning and lubricating both threads.

With thread lube, or at least motor oil.

Can be better to torque by feel but I would hardly suggest in case you haven't had the experience of a thread strip [bigsad]

Funny thing is you end up with what (to me) is a better thread in an alloy casting if you have to helicoil it, Rolls Royce did it. :)

Lubricating Threads (http://benmlee.com/4runner/threads/threads.htm)

[Toxic_Avenger]

Hi Laurie, I did a heap of cleaning on the critical parts, and she's all buttoned up now. I didn't use any oil when I torqued it all down though. I'll keep it in mind for next time.
I've had the misfortune of stripped threads in alloy, and have installed my fair share of helicoils. If I could be bothered, I'd probably proactively fit helicoils where the high assembly/disassembly is required.

[rick130]

Enjoying this Mitch.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Cheers Rick

[Toxic_Avenger]

Today I put the finishing touches on the Z.

Earlier in the week, I toyed with some various ideas for the radiator on the beast.
It has a PWR core, which has been made to be a dual pass flow, and is approx 50mm thick. Great cooling capacity from this unit. The only issue I've faced is the attachment of the stock shroud to the core, as the plastic is rather old, and in need of replacement.

I was going to try my poor AC TIG skillz on the core to weld some tabs on for attachment, but ended up just doing a ghetto-fab job with rivets, ally flat bar and some nutserts. Ballin' on a budget.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/2.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/3.jpg




The project took a halt for a few days as my brother and I headed (yesterday) to Bryon Bay to pick up his new-to-him 130 dual cab. It's a 2008 (2.4tdci), and I'm sure he'll show up on here some time soon to throw some pics around.




Despite the large number of hours behind the wheel on this Tamworth-Byron-Tamworth cannonball run, there was a rather good pie and sausage roll in Grafton- I highly recommend Hanks Kitchen in Grafton. Top notch.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/4.jpg

After the road trip was complete, the finishing touches took place.
I replaced the fuel filter and perished hose.
The PS / Alt belts were Tensioned, fluids filled, then I crossed my fingers and kicked it over...
There was all kinds of grindy noises which I feared the worst. In the end it turned out to be the PS pump making some strange noises as a result of sucking foamy fluid. After it was all bled, It came good.

So now I can say, IT WORKS (always a relief).

The devil is currently enjoying some time out from under it's car cover, and soon to be back under for another month or so before it's next drive. I should probably drive it more often...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/5.jpg

Next project will be putting this in. Possibly even some larger injectors and fuel pump. I'm leaning out on boost. No Bueno. Me no likey melty melty pistons.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/6.jpg



We can now resume normal Land Rover related transmissions on this channel...

[jon3950]

Enjoying the Z stuff Mitch. Reminds me I need to do something other than work on the Defender.

Cheers,
Jon

[Toxic_Avenger]

I need to mention- I found my 10mm socket!
All is good in the world again!

[cuppabillytea]

Great job Mitch. My Nephew has a Z. It needs some TLC as well [bigwhistle]

[Toxic_Avenger]

Z's are like a p38 rangie... a good one is great to have, a bad one will drive you bonkers.
Best thing I ever did to mine was replace the wiring harness. It took me 3 failed ignition modules (power transistor units), and subsequently 2 pairs of melted catalytic convertors to realise the issue it was causing...

[Toxic_Avenger]

I wanted a LT230 transfer case adapter plate built for future removal of the T case.

I know I needed to build a thing, but who could perform such skilled labour?!
I made some calls, and got directed to this shady character...


Some say, he can zap you with his plasma cutter from 50 paces...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/215.jpg

...And that he can convert between metric and imperial in 5x10-5 nanoseconds.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/216.jpg

His welds are rumoured to be smoother than rainbow unicorn poop...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/217.jpg
But all we know, is he's called "THE TIG"
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/218.jpg

I'm all about equal employment opportunities, but the TIG didn't talk much. So negotiation on a price was a little awkward. In the absence of beer, it turns out a bit of leftover pizza for lunch was all that was required.
After assessing the job, and a bit of muffled grumbling from under the welding hood, It appeared the prep work done by the TA (me!) was not too acceptable for proper fitment. After the usual precious boilie hissie fit, the TIG eventually came to his senses and knuckled down to the job at hand.
After a quick sniff of acetylene to get him going, the sparks began to fly.

I suppose I'll just fill in the details below:

The steel was cut with a little 25A plasma. Worked a treat.

The TIG also hacked thru some 10mm plate for the wedge sections- the gas axe was inoperable that day, so it was not that pretty a cut at 25A cut, but DealWithIt.jpeg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/219.jpg

It was then tacked together to get them ground down somewhat the same
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/220.jpg

Test fit:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/221.jpg

Complete top plate. Is tops.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/222.jpg

I think this is the ideal business model. I need a drill press and some big bits.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/223.jpg

Marked, tacked and squared up:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/224.jpg

Top plate tacked:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/225.jpg

Loving that deep penetration on the 5mm plate.
MAG welding, Argon CO2 Oxygen blend gas. Running approx 25V on 0.8mm ER70S-6 wire, in spray on a little 180A machine. The TIG tells me this setup was almost ideal. Minimal spatter and a nice spray arc in the horizontal position.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/226.jpg
In a momentary lapse of judgement, the TIG got a little bit of undercut on the 10mm sections. He muttered something about poor fit-up, and something about the apprentice, but I really think he was trying not to spray his way thru the 5mm thin stuff. The 10mm plate was part of a weld coupon that just so happened to be almost the perfect size to lop in half diagonally and make work... the whole thing has got a bit of gravity for a glorified adapter plate.

The TIG will make another cameo to complete the welding of the plate in the coming days. I had to stop him half way thru the job (after 5 minutes- he's a fast worker!) to confirm that it all fits up on the T case. As far as I can tell, it's all good to weld it out the rest of the way, and slap some paint on it.

[cuppabillytea]

Is TIG taking orders? I just found some leftover pizza between the lounge cushions.

[Toxic_Avenger]

The TIG got the sack.
He messed with the MIG settings, and did the final weld-out in globular transfer... spatter and fume everywhere.
So here I am knocking off bb's with a chisel, trying to cold-gal paint the thing, and rustle up enough paint to make it somewhat presentable.

After the shoddy workmanship, he's no longer answering his phone... he's a bit of an enigma.

Sometimes, you are better off just doing it yourself. It's hard to find good help [bigwhistle]

[cuppabillytea]

Perhaps I will use more traditional methods when the time comes. [bighmmm]

[Toxic_Avenger]

Well... it has been a long time between updates. Life has gotten rather hectic. This picture sums things up rather well:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/515.jpg

So I'll backtrack a few months with some landy (and not so Landy) related highlights

Boys weekend / Bucks party- October '17
A good mate of mine got married. His last hurrah was held on a property at Milbrodale NSW. Plenty of 4-wheeling was had, but alas the tracks were well and truly beyond the capabilities of the mule.

Had some fun hanging out with a few rigs like this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/516.jpg

All in all, approx 8 buggies attended, rode shotgun in a few, driving some incredible lines over some ridiculous terrain. Wheeled most of the day, and wheeled in the night until 3am. Fixed breakages early the next day, rinse and repeat. Fun times.

Steak envy. In retrospect, I should have sprinkled it with salt like that trendy poofter on those youtube videos :bat:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/517.jpg

Drove the 'stake your claim' trail on the property, a dry creek bed / gully that works its way for kilometers up a mountain. Idea is that you cut the trail, and drive your obstacle, you get to name it. Some notable obstacles were 'Bacon' and 'Eggs', and 'cookie's'
Bacon on the Right, Eggs is the line on the left
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/518.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/519.jpg

Gives a bit of an idea how steep Bacon is.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/520.jpg

The Eggs line had a big undercut which would trap tires and was even more difficult to drive.
There was a roll-over with one of the cars coming down Bacon.

Cookies was equally crazy.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/521.jpg

NB people for scale. This was a vertical rock wall approx 2.5m tall.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/522.jpg


This was one incredible rig. LS powered, solid diffs, tube work that was absolutely incredible, and a heap of other cool stuff.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/523.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/524.jpg


The little zook got half way to bacon before snapping a CV. Got one 'over nighted' from a mate of a mate who was attending the next morning :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/525.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/526.jpg

This was another (more capable) zook which attended. Great fun little machines!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/527.jpg



Before heading back home after an epic weekend, we took a leisurely drive along the Old Bulga Rd in the Yengo NP. Found some very old graffiti and rock wall formations which may possibly be part of an old road (I'm cautious to say 'convict' road, but you never know)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/528.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/529.jpg

This road was between the town of milbrodale, and the putty road.


Nov '17
Pretty quiet month. No landy mods, no trips, nothing fun. All work and no play makes homer something something.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/530.jpg
The majority of my time was taken up packing for...

Dec '17
...the move to the house I bought. It's an old fixxer-upper 1960's vintage. Needs some work. Well actually, a LOT of work. But now I sort of have a shed. I had to displace a number of wasps first.
We got the keys on the 8th.
Ripped the carpet out on the 9th.
And had all the interior ceilings and walls painted by lunch time on the 11th. Jamie Durie ain't got nothing!

Had a chance encounter with DAL the landy of Nate (now Andy P's). Parking rules etc.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/278.jpg

Moved into the new place on the 12th-15th. The 90 with the seats removed is actually a very good vehicle for moving boxes!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/531.jpg

Upon moving to the place, turns out the how water system was buggered. Turned out to be a corroded / burnt and failed wire on the element.
Replaced the thermostat while I was in there.

It was a perfect opportunity to buy a new tool! So that means...

It's time for another...


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/532.jpg
TOOL REVIEW

Volt stick
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/533.jpg
Let's face it. Old houses, old wiring, and the propensity for one to die when 240V is applied to oneself is not a good look. Hence a volt stick is a good investment in one's will to live.
I've used it a number of times to work out WTF is happening with lights which don't work, cross checking power points etc. 10/10 would buy again!

Now back to normal transmission...

Welding project
I bought some steel and thought I'd have a crack at building one of these.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/534.jpg

I'll leave its function undisclosed for now, feel free to comment if you know what it is!

Until next time, keep your nuts in a vice.

[Tombie]

Congrats on the new Digs mate

[rangieman]

Congrats on the lifetime of reno`s it will never end [bigwhistle]
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/534.jpg

Never seen one but is it a wigwon for a goose`s bridal [wink11]

[donh54]

Welding project
I bought some steel and thought I'd have a crack at building one of these.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/534.jpg

I'll leave its function undisclosed for now, feel free to comment if you know what it is!

Until next time, keep your nuts in a vice.

Getting into solid fuel and rockets, hmmm? They're bloody brilliant things, gotta make another one myself, soon.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Congrats on the new Digs mate


Congrats on the lifetime of reno`s it will never end [bigwhistle]

Never seen one but is it a wigwon for a goose`s bridal [wink11]

Cheers fellas. The bunnings trips are becoming an increasingly regular occurrence. I think I'm up to 4 trips this week. Good thing Tamworth is small, and bunnings is 5 minutes away with traffic!
The sausage sammiches are also becoming a weekend staple!

Unfortunately not a wigwon for a goose's bridal [wink11]


Getting into solid fuel and rockets, hmmm? They're bloody brilliant things, gotta make another one myself, soon.
Winner winner, chicken dinner! This is a 'rocket stove'. It's my interpretation of a wood stove design which uses kindling and small fuel (twigs etc) to make a hot fire. Uses a chimney effect to boil a billy, heat a frypan etc. From what I understand real 'rocket stoves' have an insulated combustion chamber, but this was made to be a bit more compact.

I splashed out on some 500C exhaust header paint, and gave it a good lick of paint.
Then I realized I have neglected to make the trivet for the top of it. So back to the welding room I go!
Might just get some 50mm flat bar, cut 2 lengths, notch each half way, slot to make a cross, and notch the stove accordingly.
I looked at a few designs, and decided on this one as:
1) the angle of the feed tube is somewhat self-feeding.
2) the lower 1/3 of the feed tube is a dedicated air inlet
3) the leg arrangement is removable - M10 nuts and all-thread rod
4) the whole thing should stow away neatly into the air feed tube.

...designed to be stored in a land rover... but not mine! Consider this MK1.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Made an Aarken-Faarken
It has been a few months in the making, but I've finally made an aarken-faarken! Refer to AULRO thread HERE (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-chat/195964-show-us-your-arken-****en.html), if you are not familiar with this!

I was given some truck drums, and was going to make a 3-drum 'pot belly' design with air vents, a flue, and a hotplate on top (even sourced a bit of 20mm plate for this very purpose!), but ended up going for an easier, bolt-together fire pit style.

Turned out OK!

Specs:
2x truck drums, inch-thick cast steel, approx 40kg ea, approx 450mm dia. Used 2 styles for aesthetics. 1 is ribbed for her pleasure.
4x 7/8"x2" bolts and nuts to suit.
3x strategic cuts with the plasma at 100A to make 3 legs (for stability on uneven ground)
1x 405mm dia circle of 5mm expanded mesh (sits in line with the lowest rib of the combustion chamber).
Might be painted. Might not. Stay tuned!



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/572.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/573.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/574.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/575.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

Pics of the finished rocket stove. Added the trivet this afternoon- 40 x 3mm flat bar with some strategic cuts (grinder surgery) to ger the job done.
The combustion chamber is one was 75x75 SHS in a 2mm wall. Was gal coated, but I ground it off the outside, and the roaring inferno inside should deal with the rest :firedevil:


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/597.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/598.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/599.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/600.jpg

Legs and trivet stow neatly in the intake port.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/601.jpg

[donh54]

Noice!

[DiscoMick]

Very noice!
Are you marketing these?

[cuppabillytea]

Burn baby burn.:firedevil:

[Toxic_Avenger]

Very noice!
Are you marketing these?Not at this stage mick. I might make multiples of mk2 and sell one or two off if there is demand.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Well... how time flies. Another 4 months down the... uh... drain... and this is what has happened.
I’ll throw a few posts together to outline the comings and goings of land rover ownership, and land rover related activities:



December 2017

Did some wheeling with brother bear around Xmas.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/338.jpg


Had some good fun... until this happened.
Love me some high-end English engineering!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/339.jpg


Went on a boat. Great weather for some boating.
(No comments Billy! I’m a rookie boat person, AKA land lubber. I was almost sea sick!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/340.jpg


Rocket stove works real well. Now lives in the back of the 130 DC above...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/341.jpg

I’m still to make my mythical MKII version. I think I’ll go some heavier wall steel, not the gal coated stuff- It’ll weight 3x more, but will hopefully be an improvement on heat flow up the chimney. A downside is it’ll also have 3x more thermal mass... and cool much slower. We’ll see how it goes, and I’ll keep the punters here informed.



Jan 2018
Put a door on the ‘shed’. It’s still full of crap, and I’m still waiting for the shed fairy to drop a big 4-bay job with mezzanine floor and hoist in the back yard.
I’ll keep praying to zombie Jeebus until it happens.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/342.jpg


Wire brushed the Aarken Faarken, and gave it a few coats of old engine oil. Works OK. I tried to cook it in:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/343.jpg

The coating persists, but does wash off after excessive rain / garden sprinkler, leaving a mild surface tarnish. Not bad for a free coating.


My new hobby is to drink white Russians and watch the Big Lebowski.
Not your idea of a good night in? Well shut the heck up, Donny.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/344.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/345.jpg


I also killed the work car (Temporarily)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/346.jpg

Dumped its coolant thru a burst metal sika’d flange joint near the thermostat. It lived to drive another day.



Feb 2018

I herd U liek Dags?!
I came to look at a caravan, left with a dag.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/347.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/348.jpg

Staffy X jack Russell. A love child, a pretty cool little doggo. Vaccinations are all good come late march, so definitely some 4x4 doggo action coming to an AULRO post near you soon!


We also sold our boat- a little NS14 skiff, after not having sailed it for 3 years. Keep your eyes out for Mind Games at TASC on Lake Macquarie, if you are into that kinda stuff.

Spent the majority of Feb still catching up on the odd bit of house painting and boring garden stuff.

The landy has been getting a workout on the bunnings runs getting timber, potting mix, paint etc.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Part deux.

March 2018
Recently, I’ve been doing a bit of travel for work. It can be great fun, but can also be a bit of a chore some days.
In my travels, I spotted a very rare sight at Novotel Parramatta- A Rangie offroad!!!
Much flex, very wow!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/349.jpg


Booze Revooze!
I can recommend these suckers. Not a bad drop. 9%, 500ml, bourbon, cola. What could go wrong?!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/350.jpg

I’m also waging war on the local feral cats which have infested the rail corridor near home.
Please be a responsible pet owner and keep your animals locked up. There are many people out this way that would just use a bullet to keep the numbers down... Rekt.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/351.jpg

Spoiler alert. It works. 1 down (and to the pound) about 5 to go.



April 2018

Zedfest 2018
Took the mighty 300zx to Armidale for a Z car event over easter.
My planning for Melrose was lax, and the cooma event seemed to have sold out before I’d given it any serious thought. Maybe next time, eh?
Took a cruise from Armidale to Ebor along the waterfall way. Lots of nice roads out there. Much fun.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/352.jpg


Also took a trip to Nundle for the annual Nundle ‘go for gold’ chinese easter festival, which celebrates the Chinese influence on the town over the Gold rush years post 1892.
Got to see some very cool dragon dancing. I’m getting cultured!

I was later informed that I’m highly disrespectful and bring dishonour to my family, as it’s a dancing lion, and the group presenting it was the Yau Kung Mun association, not the shaolin kung foo monks as I first postulated. Live and learn I guess!


https://youtu.be/zt5CSFg1sIA


https://youtu.be/rJ_9wUFID8w

While we were in the neighbourhood, took doggo for a visit to her mum / siblings.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/353.jpg


Rounded out April with some DIY action- landy hauled lumber and potting mix (sadly not goat poo as defender legend has it), and built a garden bed thingo.
I’m trying to grow stuff.... for you know... reasons.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/354.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/355.jpg



Also dabbled in some witchcraft, AKA 2-stroke engines.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/356.jpg


Bought a whipper snipper for the new patch of dirt I am custodian of.

...and got a victa silver streak mower for free off one of the facebook local classified pages. I was told ‘the spark plug threads are buggered’ and I was super keen to crack out the helicoils and have a shot at it on a low-dollar project before I’m forced to try it on something more valuable one day ...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/357.jpg

Anyway, turned out it was a few issues, and I gave the old girl a birthday:
1) Ran a carbie rebuild kit thru it- the carbie front seal was ****ing fuel out.
2) New spark plug - because for a few bucks, why not
3) Pulled the engine and inspected the piston compression (ghetto hands over ports and turned by hand)
4) Pulled the head- no play in the crank big/small bearings or rubber bands or whatever holds those darn contraptions together.
5) Jigged with the throttle a bit, and tapped out the air filter, which was in decent nick
6) New fuel
7) Soon to add new blades
8) Will need to do something with the cam-lock bolts which actuate the folding handles... or a M6x40mm bolt and nut may work...


Does anyone remember the thread called “****ing cyclists”?
Well I added to the anger on 08.04.2018, helping out with the pedal the peel cycling challenge around the Tamworth region.
Had approx 230 riders take one of 4 courses up to 100km in length thru the Tamworth and surrounding localities, all raising money for local charities.
I swagged at the event the night before on security detail, and up at sparrow's fart the next day to see al the MAMIL's (and some not too bad sheilas) take to the roadways.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/358.jpg

The Landy was commandeered for escort duties, a job at which its slowness, boxy-ness, and low gearing was great for.
The mule, piloted by the other half, diligently plodded along behind the recreational group doing a 15km ride.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/359.jpg


So yes, not a very 4wd intensive 4mths, but nevertheless, the landy has been earning its keep.

[cuppabillytea]

Such folly.[bighmmm]
But at least you attend to your thread, unlike some unmentionable layabouts.

[Tombie]

Such folly.[bighmmm]
But at least you attend to your thread, unlike some unmentionable layabouts.

Did I even start a thread on our humble steeds?

[DieselDan]

Feb 2018

I herd U liek Dags?!
I came to look at a caravan, left with a dag.




Staffy X jack Russell. A love child, a pretty cool little doggo. Vaccinations are all good come late march, so definitely some 4x4 doggo action coming to an AULRO post near you soon!




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/363.jpg

Not sure of your caravan buying skills, but your dog selection looks very cute!

[jon3950]

Did I even start a thread on our humble steeds?

No, we’re still waiting..... :)

And that reminds me, I must update mine. :(

[cuppabillytea]

Did I even start a thread on our humble steeds?

I don't know, but I did.[bigwhistle]

[Toxic_Avenger]

It has come to my attention that is has been over 3 months since I last updated this.
Well... what an uneventful 3 months it has been.

Thought I'd pen a quickie on an event I attended back on 30.06.2018

ComeUp Xtreme Winch Challenge

30.06.2018 marked round 2 of the ComeUp Xtreme Winch Challenge in Limbri, NSW, Australia, just outside of Tamworth. The event spanned 3 days, so I split the difference, and loaded up the Landy, the hound, and a few bevvies for the 45min trip out to the site.
https://i.imgur.com/DpIteYYh.jpg

The event was held on private property, with basic bush camping. All in all, the event had 10 stages, 3 held on the friday, 5 on the saturday (I watched 3 of them), and 2 stages on the Sunday. The tracks were held on and around river beds, and their surrounding gullies, making for some interesting obstacles.
https://i.imgur.com/sHmPL0Rh.jpg

Doggo approves.
https://i.imgur.com/88hMqHBh.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/v6kaPbqh.jpg

About 10 teams competed. All some seriously modified vehicles equipped with large (but not crazy) tyres, and of course winches for completing the obstacles. This particular obstacle was a good vantage point, as vehicles climbed a steep rocky gully, and continued along it for approx 100m before completing a series of speed turns / obstacles on the hill top. Inevitably, the navigator / winch bitch has to run out the winch line to the closest tree, secure the line, and guide the driver over the obstacle.
https://i.imgur.com/fgtc9trh.jpg

There was plenty of opportunity to get up close and personal with the vehicles as they traversed the course.
https://i.imgur.com/YWdEFUoh.jpg



https://youtu.be/cO48gVzZhJ8
Some impressive line speeds on those winches.


https://i.imgur.com/JaHZhMnh.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/wQSRJRgh.jpg



https://youtu.be/QnFApJqBn8Y
The side angle after the winching obstacle was quite severe. Most chose the high line to keep away from the tree, but most fell back into the ditch. Probably 30 degrees.

It was quite steep terrain. The pink tape shows the boundary of the course, which was fairly tight, allowing only minimal variance from the chosen line up the obstacle.
https://i.imgur.com/uYTU6nWh.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/Npt0Ozzh.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/UpMSndzh.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/Zo93BjNh.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/3WEKPgkh.jpg


https://youtu.be/B-kUBSW2QAs


https://i.imgur.com/iEKpXTVh.jpg

This modified 100 series Landcruiser got a bit wild on the climb.
https://i.imgur.com/yORyqd3h.jpg

But the winch reigned it in without a problem.
https://i.imgur.com/HU9XhCph.jpg



https://youtu.be/78asLuAlu4k



Heavily modified Nissan Patrol.
https://i.imgur.com/hZObx9uh.jpg

Ready to winch.
https://i.imgur.com/SPgenozh.jpg

I'm a big fan of the tray style most of these rigs run. I think if I ever went full-retard on the landy, it'd mirror something like this. Truck cab, cage, tube tray. BIG tyres. Because why not?!
https://i.imgur.com/jI4yrZWh.jpg

Many of the vehicles ran some kind of winch hook 'keeper'. This particular vehicle had a attachment point on a vertically mounted spring off the bull-bar. This keep the winch hook accessible without needing to dig into mud or water to extract the vehicle. Winch controls were in the cab, and air or elect4rically operated free spool mechanism.
https://i.imgur.com/DXfu4qih.jpg



https://youtu.be/y0vh3Prw1cI


Tree protector straps and winch blanket were often tossed to the anchor point, rather than weigh the navigator down over the scramble up the terrain. There was a time limit per course, and I believe, time penalties applied for various fouls etc.
https://i.imgur.com/hjNlMRgh.jpg

Another modified Patrol.
https://i.imgur.com/6phCx62h.jpg

Most navvies would run ahead of the truck. Some would ride along, and get out only when needed.
https://i.imgur.com/1NsQWmPh.jpg

Rigging up.
https://i.imgur.com/5NkU2O6h.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/hrmGJouh.jpg



https://youtu.be/zRM5EsfQ32I


The final stage on the Saturday was a river run. The vantage point was about 20m elevation above the river bed, looking down into a valley. You can see the tiny track marshalls and film crew down below.
https://i.imgur.com/rUx7K1gh.jpg

The track ran along the river bed, then hooked thru a rather deep water hole before exiting and following the valley.
https://i.imgur.com/pjTCPgxh.jpg



https://youtu.be/BjrCSGaAk50
(phone memory card was full at the end of this clip :( )

All in all, a great event to watch.
https://i.imgur.com/eFRAE3Bh.jpg

...stay tuned for more mildly interesting happenings in the world of the Toxic_Avenger- coming soon to a screen near you!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Anyone who hasn't been living under a rock might have heard a thing or two about the poor weather we've been having.
Maybe even rumours of farmers having to shoot their herds as a result of no feed, no water, an no more money to buy said resources.
Well, news flash. They are not rumours. The struggle is real.

I got involved with a crew of people who were collecting resources for helping these farming families out in these tough times.
The basic premise was that people donate food, money or anything else, and it gets distributed to those in need.
I put my hand up to distribute. It's win-win- landy gets some KM's, and I get to see the backlots of the region more, and feel good doing it.

Since I own only half a landy, and my ability to distribute this stuff was limited, so I phoned a friend. A friend with a full landy. Plus a trailer.
Achievement get: +150% storage capacity!

All up, we did about a 200km loop from Tamworth. Dropped off about 40 care packages containing non perishable food, toiletries, and bottled water in a day. Had some heart-warming, and heart breaking conversations with our farmers, and did just a little bit of good to brighten their otherwise brown week.




Cue pics, so you believe my story.




Consolidating the goods and creating the packs. Great work by the community, including the CWA ladies, lions club, and Rotary. The dollars and cents were managed under the guise of a church- apparently you cannot just collect and distribute money for a good cause without a charitable org status...
https://i.imgur.com/0UeYbEK.jpg


The group organising this ('Doing it for our Farmers') is non demoninational, just a group of good blokes and shielas on facebook who want3ed to make a difference. They comandeered a vacant commercial premises for packing and distribution, and this is the result:

https://i.imgur.com/KlUlCL8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/G42rDTi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bkqaXm9.jpg


Landy Power! The perentie loved it!
https://i.imgur.com/75Nflfz.jpg


The mule hauled it's share...
https://i.imgur.com/2ufjtyL.jpg

Ready to roll out
https://i.imgur.com/eJOkTgM.jpg

We did drops to places just like this- rural mail boxes in dry areas, with livestock in distress.
https://i.imgur.com/hhwofVc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7W85yaw.jpg

BONUS FACT- minions!
NB. Pretty dry.
https://i.imgur.com/FXxZ1fv.jpg

Lots of cattle grazing on some very barren land.
https://i.imgur.com/4M8pjec.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KkpcF4i.jpg

I don't think I've seen a more sorry looking cow in all my life. You could put your fist in the sunken void between it's hip and ribs...
https://i.imgur.com/m5GlGfP.jpg

One for the heart strings: This lamb was attempting to get milk from it's mum. I was in the distance, viewing as best I could with a maxxed out zoom on my phone. In the space of 2 minutes, it had had 3 attempts for a feed. Nothing left.
https://i.imgur.com/g9czE3a.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/u2kVqax.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WhpRJhX.jpg



All I can say, is if you have any kind of disposable income and want to do some good, get it to these Aussies in some way or another.
They are literally living with the arse hanging out of their pants, doing their hardest to keep their livelihood afloat, and trying to keep the herd alive.
Many are paying up to $400 per tonne transport for feed for these animals- to put it in perspective, a well growing animal could eat up to 15kg of feed per day, to maintain growth, and to be marketable. Do the math.

Anyone wanting to do some good, get in touch, I'll take you for a grand tour, and fill your truck up with stuff to help.
Next weekend will probably be out west.

[cuppabillytea]

Good job Mitch. Lachies school raised $56,000. so far and the campaign has just begun.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Closing in on 12mths since the last update.

Sept-Dec 2018
Not much happened on the landy front. I did notice that the hand brake was not holding the vehicle. I got under the mule with the ratchet and gave it a few twists to tighten it up. Also purchased a rubber wheel chock from supercheap for a bit of added protection, as my driveway is on a bit of a slope.

In October, I got a new work car, being a salesman-spec 2WD colorado dual cab, complete with boring interior, no attitude, and a canopy. So this has been doing a lot of the kays in lieu of Landy power.

Jan - April 2019
Removed wheel chock from the landy which was parked up for an embarrasingly long time. Still haven't re-tensioned the hand brake... I think I need to clean the brake shoes up a little, as there might be some oil contamination.
This whole exercise was to do the old driveway shuffle to get the Z32 on the flat part of the drive for some maintenance, effectively locking the landy in the backyard.

Nissan 300zx info below...
This is what I begrudgingly found myself working on again...
https://i.imgur.com/EIyyLvlh.jpg

The astute reader will remember the April 2018 pics of zedfest, at which time I noticed a problem with the Z's engine mount. Parts were ordered with an 8 week lead time, due to some excuse of ARP not having the right hardware . Because of the nature of a Z32 engine bay, and let alone the ability of one to work on it in a driveway, parts were shelved until motivation arrived... (sounds painful). It was not until christmas / new years 2018 that I pulled my finger out.

So, engine mounts shouldn't look like this. Something about urethane, turbos <150mm away, and engine bay temps consistently in the 80+ range probably had something to do with it.

This was what they looked like upon inspection.
https://i.imgur.com/PBWKI7zh.jpg

To get to the engine mounts, with the engine in the vehicle, involves a bit of finesse. First thing to get out of the way was the AC. This has been without gas, and seized solid since I bought the car in 2010. So in the intrest of +10HP, and stage 3 weight reduction, it found its way onto the healing bench.
https://i.imgur.com/nhBqbHZh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/pjg0f2sh.jpg

I finally managed to get to the engine mounts - installed these units (not my pic) which are quite trick.
http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/ZCG-JC31013-028-400x300.jpg
TIG welded chromolly tube, with inset rubber isolators. The mounting pad is machined to allow an offset design, allowing up to 3" intake piping to the turbos. WINNING! Although my main motivation was gaining as much access around the engine block as I can.

Engine mounts in, I renewed the bearings in the alternator. Ghetto backyard press is ghetto!
https://i.imgur.com/7pzaegbh.jpg
That's a truck drum brake, a 10mm socket, and a bottle jack FYI. Can recommend!

I then turned my attention to the rear of the car. I have had some 4.1 diff gears on the parts shelf since 2011, and I thought it was about time I considered installing them into the R230 nissan diff that is in the Z.
I had a bit of a trouble getting a bearing kit locally for this diff. It's a weird one which was fitted to the nissan Z32 Twin turbo variant, and a truck of some description in the 90's. It's a bomb-proof IRS diff with a 9" (230mm) crown wheel, with viscous limited slip centre. It was a stronger variant of the ubiquitous R200 diff of many other japanese cars in its day (skyline, various Z cars, 240SX... and many more)
After a few weeks of 'digging thru the parts books', the diff shop conceded that I'd need to find the bearings myself. So another 3 week wait for the post, and stupid american shipping costs later, I had diff bearings in hand ready to have installed. I don't own a shop press big enough to build a diff like this, so thought it was best to leave it to the pros. After the run-around I got, it probably would have been cheaper if I tooled up and did it myself... live and learn.
https://i.imgur.com/GrU64r1h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7COgTGph.jpg

The diff job also involved new diff carrier bushings and some shims for the subframe assembly to stiffen it all up.
https://i.imgur.com/rXTh6HJh.jpg

Proud to say, the Mighty 300zx now whines like a race car with all the added driveline noise now. Almost up to Landy standards!

I also added some flash suspension back onto the car which had been in storage for a while.
The reinstalled (new old stock) suspension setup now includes some Tein Flex coilovers which have adjustable perch, preload and something like 32 settings for dampening via the valving. Also threw on some of the adjustable camber gear to make things a bit more aligned. Overall, its now approx 20mm lower, for max flex appeal.
https://i.imgur.com/pSejA68h.jpg


Then I came to an added 'feature' of the Z. The factory 2-piece driveshaft and centre bearing.
As you may be able to see, this was completely and utterly dickered.
https://i.imgur.com/JRcJM3Ch.jpg

Normally, we'd expect a bearing to actually be connected to the driveshaft.
Might be wear and tear over the last 28 or so years of its life... or might have been those hard launches at Eastern creek back in 2011.

Anyhow, nissan wanted $450 for the centre bearing.
Managed to get a 1-piece aluminium driveshaft out of the states (more stupid shipping costs) for similar money. I did try to source locally, but this is an uncommon diff, and uncommon transmission in an uncommon car. Plus the Australia tax is alive and well.

https://i.imgur.com/PSxNMafh.jpg


Around March 2019, I thought it was about time to set the Z back on the ground for its first drive after a bit of an overhaul. But the Z had other ideas.
Upon starting the engine, the radiator fan was clipping the harmonic balancer. After prodding around, I thought the viscous coupling for the fan was shot, as it was a bit wobbly, and hence, clearance over the radius of the fan blades led to a pronounced 'clearance problem'.
Another shipment of parts, and it was all back together.
But the problem persisted.
Looking closer at it, the water pump (to which the viscous coupling connects) had suffered a bent shaft. Nb this part is less that 5000km old, genuine nissan, and this failure really ruined my day.

The job to replace the water pump is a bit of a painful one...
Radiator out:
https://i.imgur.com/MybNL6kh.jpg

Crank pulley and Timing covers off:
https://i.imgur.com/0Pc8uLbh.jpg
...and replace the unit.

Man, this car just keeps on giving.
I question my vehicle life choices most days...


So jump forward to [B]April 2019. The Z has had a heap of work, punctuated by a lot of waiting for parts from overseas, but is now in a much more mechanically good place.
All the while the Landy has been land-locked in the driveway.
When it was time to do the old driveway shuffle to get cars in the right order to use them, the landy had the unfortunate click of a flat battery. Some numpty forgot to give the vehicle a charge over the last 8 months of being idle. the only drive it got was to rearrange the driveway back in december. Whoopsie doodles!

So this, gentlemen, is a great way to kill a D34M optima. Run it to bare bones flat. I'm talking 4.5V flat. Then leave it there for 5 or so months. Recommend it to your friends! Bonus points if you 'accidentally' leave the air compressor on, so it charges the hose once every hour for an unknown amount of time!

So, needless to say, the Landy has been running on 1 battery for a while.
This is easily managed with the way I set it all up, it's just a matter of hooking the starting battery to the factory fuse and circuit, and disconnecting the ACR and winch cables. I could bring in the ex-box circuits if I wished, but for now, I've left them disconnected. So top points for forward thinking.

May-June 2019
Visited a long lost relative of the Mule.
This is my uncle's series 1. Currently serving as a glorified stand for a firefighting water pump, which is hiding under an old garage roller door. Yes it's sad. Yes I'd love to save it.
AFAIK it's a bit of a custom job with the cab? Or did they come like this?

https://i.imgur.com/3WCSf9ah.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NlGRKFoh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3EdLvTqh.jpg

Around the home, I had the fortunate death of our hot water system. Not being one to waste things, and having the need for another stupid project, I thought I'd make something out of the old tank inside the HWS.
Since the BBQ bug had bitten, what better thing to make than a BBQ smoker? Who can say low and slow brisket?

This is what I had to work with. Banana and Doggo for scale.
https://i.imgur.com/YvhkVu1h.jpg

After a few strategic cuts with the grinder, I had the inlet and outlet ports blanked off.
https://i.imgur.com/gE09RcPh.jpg
Started out with a cheap little stick welder and 2.5mm GP rods, but have since borrowed a MIG.

Hinge design
https://i.imgur.com/25IgwTmh.jpg

Went a bit crazy with the drill
https://i.imgur.com/bdtLGqUh.jpg

For added aesthetic, decided to plug weld the door finishing straps from behind. Looks cleaner IMO
https://i.imgur.com/ug1IHL6h.jpg

Hinges done
https://i.imgur.com/BVaOkLah.jpg

I built this aberration out of 5mm plate. It's what those in the know call a chimney plenum. Imagine it as a collector for smoke. Assists with even smoke flow, even cooking temps, and overall badass BBQ pro points. There will be a 5" smoke stack welded to the top of it.
https://i.imgur.com/EwNPkOLh.jpg

There was a bit of fab in this... as it will weld to a convex surface, it has a lot of curves (AKA grinder surgery) to make it fit.For the rest of it... there is a grinder and paint.

It is currently sitting like this:
https://i.imgur.com/kvYHCTeh.jpg
Need to fab up a stand / legs for it, and a firebox.
Because I'm a glutton for punishment, I'm planning a double wall insulated firebox. Helps with wood burn and economy. Less heat loss thru the firebox walls, and more smoke and heat where we want it. ON THE MEAT.


July 2019
I thought it was time to take it for a solid drive. I went for a trip down to Newcastle, and the mule was the whip of choice. Usually work car wins by playing the '100% greater fuel economy at no cost' card, and '+10 comfort'... but this time, I needed the roof racks. 1) to return a ladder I borrowed 18 months ago , and 2) because I had bulky things to bring back north.

Achievement get! 51,000KM ODO! (I probably should drive it more).


On the return leg, I loaded the landy up with some goodies:

https://i.imgur.com/YIjTAiQh.jpg

I now have a roof top tent. It's just a kings brand, but will be more than adequate for our needs. I'll need to fab something up so it will work with the 'full basket' style roof racks I have. I'd rather not hack it apart if I can help it, but I do have a welder and an appetite for destruction.

Under the RTT, is some steel. I saved 9 lengths of 75x40x5mm RHS from the scrap bin. Will be good to help progress the BBQ build.

NB Landy on the lean in above pic! Probably around max roof load.


After this whole big story, the Landy's hand brake is still not fixed. I should probably get around to it... [bigwhistle]


[B]Edit
Forgot my Booze Revooz!

https://i.imgur.com/bdmzvbWh.jpg

Another White Russian while watching 'The Big Lebowski'.
'That rug really tied the room together'
'The dude abides'


...Well that's probably all for this year.
Be excellent to each other, and party on dudes!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Just a non Land Rover themes aside...
Smoker now has a frame to sit on. It will also sport some wheels when I find a suitable set.

https://i.imgur.com/vDgrcU8h.jpg

Just need to weld on the chimney plenum, attach the chimney proper, build the grill plates for inside (simple), and then the big job of the firebox. Not sure if I'll buy a sheet of plate and build my own firebox, or buy a flat-pack commercial one.

Then it should be ready for long boozy days of beers and fires, and a solid meat feed at the end of it all.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Nothing land rover related here...
But the smoker build is nearing completion.
Ended up buying some 6mm plate, and Welded up the firebox which is 500mm cubed. Made my own air inlets and they turned out better than expected.

https://i.imgur.com/qBxvHQHh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IiKfilDh.jpg

All that's left to do is build the cook trays, build a dampener for the smoke stack, then a few little jobs like handles, knobs for air vent actuating, a grease drain point, and a lick of paint.


Next welding project will be a set of home-brew rock sliders for the 90.

[DiscoMick]

That's looking good.
The daughters partner is a welder and has made several smokers out of old gas bottles.

[Don 130]

Nice looking work. the results should be tasty. Is the tank an old acetylene bottle?
Don.

[Toxic_Avenger]

The tank was a 400L hot water system. Approx 1700mm long. The whole think weighs in at approx 200KG.

[W&KO]

.


Next welding project will be a set of home-brew rock sliders for the 90.

I realized I didn’t have the full set of brackets, will have it sorted when I wing it in on the 2nd...at least see if they will be suitable of your plans.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Today's adventure in metalwork:
I made a vise post out of an old truck drum brake, and some scrap metal plate.

https://i.imgur.com/EqvmpMoh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QvSK6fRh.jpg

I have the work bench in my work 'area', which was cut down out of a larger item early this year. I was battling without a vise, and making do with F clamps, vise-grip welding clamps, and sawhorses.
This is just what I needed. can be rolled into the shed for any other Land Rover related tasks, and is at a good workable height, approx 1030mm, or 40mm below my elbow height at a 90 degree bend.
Weight is good. If I need it heavier, I will weld additional scrap metal into the base, or cap it on the bottom, and fill with sand.

On the smoker front,
I ran some 40# flappers, a few scotch brite strip'n'clean discs, and gave a small section of the smoker a whizz up with a blending and polishing wheel. Came up OK.
Not sure if I'll paint it, or let it patina. Jury is out on which kind of paint will hold up the best. Maybe a flameproof exhaust header paint, or a pot belly black paint. I also tacked up a cooking grate for inside, but still need to source some mesh for the cooking surfaces.

https://i.imgur.com/X3cRFZsh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/L4MbG08h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jyenCBLh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/pwQAFOqh.jpg


BOOZE REVOOZE!
Been sinking a few Canadian Club and dry cans throughout the day (welding and hanging off a grinder is thirsty work).
Topped it off with a few swigs of 'Mcguigan Black Label Chradonnay'. It's been in the cupboard for a long while now, and dinner called for a few cups worth... so the remainder goes to the chef. Hold the old nose, and Bottoms Up!

until next time,
work hard, and be good to your mother.

[Homestar]

I thought you were about to tell us you made the vice... 😉

[Toxic_Avenger]

The thought had crossed my mind, but the tool shop needed my money, and I needed a vise in a timely manner.

[Homestar]

I have a large offset vice at home I made about 30 years ago - got the screw and nut from a busted vice and me and a mate fabbed up the rest. It needs to work and a new nut making for it - I should drag it out and make some new bits for it on my lathe at some point - just what I need, another project... Might wait until the tractor and 101 are finished. [emoji56]

[Standard]

Today's adventure in metalwork:
I made a vise post out of an old truck drum brake, and some scrap metal plate.

https://i.imgur.com/EqvmpMoh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QvSK6fRh.jpg

I have the work bench in my work 'area', which was cut down out of a larger item early this year. I was battling without a vise, and making do with F clamps, vise-grip welding clamps, and sawhorses.
This is just what I needed. can be rolled into the shed for any other Land Rover related tasks, and is at a good workable height, approx 1030mm, or 40mm below my elbow height at a 90 degree bend.
Weight is good. If I need it heavier, I will weld additional scrap metal into the base, or cap it on the bottom, and fill with sand.

On the smoker front,
I ran some 40# flappers, a few scotch brite strip'n'clean discs, and gave a small section of the smoker a whizz up with a blending and polishing wheel. Came up OK.
Not sure if I'll paint it, or let it patina. Jury is out on which kind of paint will hold up the best. Maybe a flameproof exhaust header paint, or a pot belly black paint. I also tacked up a cooking grate for inside, but still need to source some mesh for the cooking surfaces.

https://i.imgur.com/X3cRFZsh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/L4MbG08h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jyenCBLh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/pwQAFOqh.jpg


BOOZE REVOOZE!
Been sinking a few Canadian Club and dry cans throughout the day (welding and hanging off a grinder is thirsty work).
Topped it off with a few swigs of 'Mcguigan Black Label Chradonnay'. It's been in the cupboard for a long while now, and dinner called for a few cups worth... so the remainder goes to the chef. Hold the old nose, and Bottoms Up!

until next time,
work hard, and be good to your mother.What are you planning for your first cook? Pork butt? Brisket? 26 chickens?

Cheers,
Stan.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yeah. Probably that.
In that order. [wink11]

To be honest, first cook will be with nothing inside to burn off any nasties, if applicable.
Second cook might be some scones, or a basic dough to try work out where the hot/cold parts of the cook chamber are.
Then I'll burn some meat.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Time for another update.
I'll get the fun stuff out of the way first:

Smoker is complete:
https://i.imgur.com/nwCTKxv.jpg

Cooks nice food. I've been making brisket beef short ribs, and also tried to make a ham (pork shoulder ham).

https://i.imgur.com/rrv6fkrh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/c4Lq89Ah.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/luEad1Bh.jpg



In other non-LR stuff, been getting into a few tool refurbishment projects.
Rebuilt this bench grinder:

https://i.imgur.com/ofOebYyh.jpg

Also painted up an old pipe vice - great for driveshaft refurbs if / when they ever come along.
https://i.imgur.com/e61qrIVh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rijTLvSh.jpg

...And A record #3 vice (I'm sure you can see a colour scheme trend emerging)
https://i.imgur.com/logDSzBh.jpg

Air-conned the shed with an ancient window rattler! First world problems, huh?

https://i.imgur.com/c5DjR5dh.jpg


In the land rover space, not a lot has happened since the last update, although I have been tackling some maintenance items in preparation for an outback trip over easter.

I installed a nugget box. Because I like shiny things, and I drew the line when I once again found mud on clean side of the airbox, and the MAF sensor.

https://i.imgur.com/xSxAs6kh.jpg
Install was fairly painless, just a bit of a bother holding my tongue in the right spot while getting covered in solicone and using my other 3 hands to try and wrangle the flexi hose onto the box itself, then clamp it all together. A helper would have made it quicker.

Maintenance wise...
Coolant flush
Removed the coolant today, as I don't believe it has been flushed in it's lifetime (well not that I know of since I have owned it).
This was done via the fuel cooler hoses on the LHS chassis rail. Drained about 8L. Will refill with Nulon red long life stuff, which meets the correct ford spec this motor apparently needs.

Silicone throttle body/intake manifold hose replacement
Took the opportunity while the coolant was drained to install the BAS throttle body elbow which is the final link in the attempt to keep the puma failed intercooler hose faults at bay.
This allows a lot better access to the area through removing the water pump from the block. With it out of the way, there is sufficient room to pull the pump up and away from the work area.
Still a pain in the arse job, and 100% would not want to do it again in a hurry, but well worth the peace of mind.

This is the job done, I got a pic showing the orientation of the T-bar clamps (need to be in a specific direction so they don't rub on the coolant hoses).
https://i.imgur.com/CsTxB08h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/0CzWEqKh.jpg

With the water pump unbolted from the engine, with hoses still attached, it can easily just be pushed up and out of the way.
https://i.imgur.com/lL9CSyuh.jpg

Thanks to Tombie for the recommendation (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/241835-defender-puma-2-2-intercooler-hose-throttle-body-should-replaced.html).
I shared a moment with the Landy, and with a few grunts and a few swift thrusts, the hose install was done. I gotta say though... those people from Kentucky sure do make a foul tasting jelly...
https://i.imgur.com/oNxaEfmh.jpg


Another observation (on a serious note) is that once you wade thru the rat's nest of coolant hoses, the puma seems like it has some decent access to the key engine parts. Which brings me to the...


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/532.jpg
TOOL REVIEW
Knipex locking hose clamp pliers
https://i.imgur.com/dNNXm5Ah.jpg

For years I battled with a set of pliers to undo pesky coolant clamps on my cars. I almost lost an eye a few times.
I got my hands on one of those cable actuated flexi clamp ones, but not ideal for many applications and clip sizes.
Then I graduated to a set of locking long nose vise grips. 60% of the time, they worked every time. I thought I had this game nailed...
But then, one day when I saw these, I yelled out "shut up and take my money!" and despite the sales guy being somewhat alarmed, I got the pliers, and avoided any charges of being a public nuisance.
They are great for all those spring clamps which Infest the puma. The tips have heaps of grip, swivel to allow you to get the clamp around objects, and this particular version locks in place. Well worth the investment IMO.

Maybe one day I will work out a way to get a much cleaner and streamlined cooling system. there has to be a better way that 15 different hoses, and 30 different joints.

[Baytown]

Great work Mitch.
Im going to investigate if I can fit Wayne’s Airbox when the LS3 gets installed in Sept.
They refit the OEM airbox so with any luck, it’ll work!
Ive missed your tool reviews!👍

[filcar]

Great work Mitch.
Im going to investigate if I can fit Wayne’s Airbox when the LS3 gets installed in Sept.
They refit the OEM airbox so with any luck, it’ll work!
Ive missed your tool reviews!👍

Get Andrew to do it for you while he is fitting the new motor. He has fitted some of these already

[Toxic_Avenger]

Great work Mitch.
Im going to investigate if I can fit Wayne’s Airbox when the LS3 gets installed in Sept.
They refit the OEM airbox so with any luck, it’ll work!
Ive missed your tool reviews!👍

Cheers Ken,
As long as you are not going a LS3 big turbo setup (but please tell me you are)... I wouldn't see how you couldn't swivel the top plate of the airbox to a spot suitable for the front inlet of the LS3, and just hook it to a suitable hose that will handle the vacuum that the small block will pull. The bottom part of the airbox can should remain unchanged- as long as snorkel and guards/wheel tubs remain unchanged.

I don't mind the odd tool purchase. If it makes a job faster and/or easier, it's worth it in my opinion. Picked up a new Knipex tool earlier this week. It may even make an appearance some time next week!

[Baytown]

Thanks fellas, and yep, I’ll get Les Richmonds to fit the airbox after discussion on how to provide the best required induction.
Mitch, re the engine, I thought that they are the naturally aspirated LS3, certainly not the Superchargedunit, but I’ll be looking into any suitable forced induction that can be legally installed. Engineering certification is the issue re turbos and superchargers I believe.

[Toxic_Avenger]

...and all the other problems that 800HP will bring. [bigwhistle]

[DiscoMick]

Time for another update.
I'll get the fun stuff out of the way first:

Smoker is complete:
https://i.imgur.com/nwCTKxv.jpg

Cooks nice food. I've been making brisket beef short ribs, and also tried to make a ham (pork shoulder ham).

https://i.imgur.com/rrv6fkrh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/c4Lq89Ah.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/luEad1Bh.jpg



In other non-LR stuff, been getting into a few tool refurbishment projects.
Rebuilt this bench grinder:

https://i.imgur.com/ofOebYyh.jpg

Also painted up an old pipe vice - great for driveshaft refurbs if / when they ever come along.
https://i.imgur.com/e61qrIVh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rijTLvSh.jpg

...And A record #3 vice (I'm sure you can see a colour scheme trend emerging)
https://i.imgur.com/logDSzBh.jpg

Air-conned the shed with an ancient window rattler! First world problems, huh?

https://i.imgur.com/c5DjR5dh.jpg


In the land rover space, not a lot has happened since the last update, although I have been tackling some maintenance items in preparation for an outback trip over easter.

I installed a nugget box. Because I like shiny things, and I drew the line when I once again found mud on clean side of the airbox, and the MAF sensor.

https://i.imgur.com/xSxAs6kh.jpg
Install was fairly painless, just a bit of a bother holding my tongue in the right spot while getting covered in solicone and using my other 3 hands to try and wrangle the flexi hose onto the box itself, then clamp it all together. A helper would have made it quicker.

Maintenance wise...
Coolant flush
Removed the coolant today, as I don't believe it has been flushed in it's lifetime (well not that I know of since I have owned it).
This was done via the fuel cooler hoses on the LHS chassis rail. Drained about 8L. Will refill with Nulon red long life stuff, which meets the correct ford spec this motor apparently needs.

Silicone throttle body/intake manifold hose replacement
Took the opportunity while the coolant was drained to install the BAS throttle body elbow which is the final link in the attempt to keep the puma failed intercooler hose faults at bay.
This allows a lot better access to the area through removing the water pump from the block. With it out of the way, there is sufficient room to pull the pump up and away from the work area.
Still a pain in the arse job, and 100% would not want to do it again in a hurry, but well worth the peace of mind.

This is the job done, I got a pic showing the orientation of the T-bar clamps (need to be in a specific direction so they don't rub on the coolant hoses).
https://i.imgur.com/CsTxB08h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/0CzWEqKh.jpg

With the water pump unbolted from the engine, with hoses still attached, it can easily just be pushed up and out of the way.
https://i.imgur.com/lL9CSyuh.jpg

Thanks to Tombie for the recommendation (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/241835-defender-puma-2-2-intercooler-hose-throttle-body-should-replaced.html).
I shared a moment with the Landy, and with a few grunts and a few swift thrusts, the hose install was done. I gotta say though... those people from Kentucky sure do make a foul tasting jelly...
https://i.imgur.com/oNxaEfmh.jpg


Another observation (on a serious note) is that once you wade thru the rat's nest of coolant hoses, the puma seems like it has some decent access to the key engine parts. Which brings me to the...


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/532.jpg
TOOL REVIEW
Knipex locking hose clamp pliers
https://i.imgur.com/dNNXm5Ah.jpg

For years I battled with a set of pliers to undo pesky coolant clamps on my cars. I almost lost an eye a few times.
I got my hands on one of those cable actuated flexi clamp ones, but not ideal for many applications and clip sizes.
Then I graduated to a set of locking long nose vise grips. 60% of the time, they worked every time. I thought I had this game nailed...
But then, one day when I saw these, I yelled out "shut up and take my money!" and despite the sales guy being somewhat alarmed, I got the pliers, and avoided any charges of being a public nuisance.
They are great for all those spring clamps which Infest the puma. The tips have heaps of grip, swivel to allow you to get the clamp around objects, and this particular version locks in place. Well worth the investment IMO.

Maybe one day I will work out a way to get a much cleaner and streamlined cooling system. there has to be a better way that 15 different hoses, and 30 different joints.That's a great slow cooker. Slow cooked meat is delicious.
Our daughter's partner made a similar slow cooker out of a gas bottle.

[Toxic_Avenger]

The last week has been punctuated with some land rover parts gathering, and installing.

I have owned the mule for 5years, 10months and 52,000km to date. 32,000 of those km are mine. While it's not a show pony, those have been some fun kilometers.

While I don't really plan to move this car on any time soon, I think it is worth while keeping a record of the maintenance work I do to it, and to keep on top of the components which age due to kilometers or time.
So to that end I've been developing a bit of a spreadsheet to consolidate maintenance intervals of key vehicle components, allow for forward planning of work (and parts!- which are sometimes a bit more difficult to get than some of the other vehicle makes out there), and consolidate the bits of info that lives in the service manual, parts catalogue, and other sources online.
Simple stuff- like 'what's the wheel nut torque' and 'how much oil and what grade do I need' are some simple questions but devilishly hard to find in the workshop manual (FYI puma oil capacity lives in the owners book- not listed in the service manual surprisingly!).

So I started >>this thread<< (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/277398-puma-maintenance-beyond-schedule.html) to try to consolidate and gather this info, and get some feedback from the hive-mind. With some luck, when the document is somewhat complete, it can be shared to others who wish to take the reigns of their own vehicle servicing.

So on to the work done last week:

Fuel filters were replaced. A very easy job. no tools required either!
The LR uses a filter style with a keyed rim on the filter body, so a little different to some of the other styles out there. The last service kit I threw through the car used a 10 series Fuel Manager brand filter (p/n 36995), which I tried to source through Diesel care- who supply a range of this brand of filter in their kit. Unfortunately the stock level of this in AU was zero units... so I had a bit of a wait. So I caved and forked out 135 clams for a genuine LR item- WJI500040. At least it arrived overnight!
The secondary filter I also changed, and the parts for that were the more common and higher flow rated Fuel manager 100 series p/n 36693. On the shelf- winning!

Coolant flush
I renewed the coolant, mainly because it is an easy job, and now I have a starting point and product which I know and have documented.
The Coolant drain process is simple-
Locate the fuel cooler (on inside of passenger side chassis rail) and use a scissor type fuel line disconnect tool on the two bottom connections (the water inlet and outlet). This tool slides inside the connector, and allows the connector to slide off. Coolant will go everywhere out of both holes (the hose and cooler) so it's a real bukkake party! (the Japanese use the word to describe a dash or sprinkle of water- the more you know).
I used a Wynns coolant flush product with water and a short drive to get rid of any residue in there (Guilty as charged- I had topped up the reservoir a few times with our hard tap water), so couldn't be a bad thing.
Replacement coolant was approx 10L of Penrite red OEM coolant which meets the WAS-M97B44-D spec as per FSM.

Fuel cooler connections
https://i.imgur.com/k8NSlHuh.jpg

Undo with one of these:
https://i.imgur.com/aV93hySh.png

I also replaced the thermostat.
This has always been a bit foreign to me- weird that it has 3 outlets.
I marked it up with the coolant flow path, it effectively just cycles coolant around 1 side of the thermostat valve, and when it reaches full temp, it will then allow full flow through the radiator core.
https://i.imgur.com/GpaAjQCh.jpg

After refill, the coolant bleed procedure is:
Fill expansion bottle to cold level. Undo bleed screw near heater tap.
Tighten bleed screw, then Start engine, rev to 3000RPM for 1 min,
Let idle for 5
Top up as necessary. Occasionally bleed via the screw as needed.
Eventually thermostat will open and you'll be fully bled.


Oil change
Nothing crazy here, used more of the stash- the Castrol Magnatec Professional A5 5W30 p/n 3369740. About 7L- until it registers correctly on the dipstick.

Tyre rotation
Did another tryre rotation- the order is:
Rear tyres go to the front on the same side
The spare goes to Rear Right
Front Right goes to Rear Left
Front Left goes to the spare position.

Other maintenance
Greased the prop shafts. Easy enough job.
Also checked the diff fluid levels - Both bang-on. The front is showing some leaking of the swivel grease into the diff- it has that moly grease colour.
Transfer case needed approx 300ml top up of the Motul Gear 300 75w90 that I used last time. It has the ubiquitous intermediate shaft leak. I might fix that when I schedule the intermediate shaft... some time in the future.


So that should round it out in time for the trip to the corner country over Easter.
The plan is to go Bourke, Louth, Tilpa, White Cliffs, Packsaddle, Tibooburra, Cameron Corner, then the cut line back to Bourke, Lightning Ridge then home. So should be a good amount of dirt roads.


This brings me to the next

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/532.jpg
TOOL REVIEW
Olight S2R Baton II LED Torch

https://i.imgur.com/lqu9PMHh.jpg

Got this as a gift from a mate. It's a great bit of kit. approx 1150 lumens ('enough' in layman's terms), and a sexy copper construction to-boot!
I've been abusing it for a few months now, and it has got the the stage where it is no longer bling bling, but now has its own patina and character.
Great for the glovebox / cubby box, can be recharged by USB, and has a magnet base which is how it recharges- I find myself sticking this to metal parts under the car as it holds it's own weight- Brilliant!

Came into its own on max power for checking coolant level in the expansion tank:
https://i.imgur.com/iahDvVnh.jpg

[Pickles2]

Thanks fellas, and yep, I’ll get Les Richmonds to fit the airbox after discussion on how to provide the best required induction.
Mitch, re the engine, I thought that they are the naturally aspirated LS3, certainly not the Superchargedunit, but I’ll be looking into any suitable forced induction that can be legally installed. Engineering certification is the issue re turbos and superchargers I believe.
LS3?,....VERY good, & LRA have done a few so you've definitely gone to the right place.
The supercharged version of the LS3 is the LSA which can be bought as a crate motor, a magnificent piece of gear,...430KW, & tremendously docile,..can be driven by a little old lady to church on Sunday, but put the pedal to the metal,.....awesome!!
I spoke to Andrew a few years ago about this engine & I think He said words along the lines of engineering / legal difficulties with this engine into a 90, so I think you're right on that one, I don't know if that's still the case or whether there are different rules for different models? I had a look at a black 90 into which LRA had placed an LS3, & it was a very neat job. I never went ahead,...a bit above my budget!
Looking forward to hearing more.
Pickles.

[ramblingboy42]

Hey Toxic Avenger,

I see you are travelling down the darling?

I will be travelling down from Qld around the 12th/13th April , to arrive in Adelaide on the 16th then meet up with a mob for our biannual William Ck meeting and onto the Simpson then all the way down the state to finish at the Woolshed Brewery ,around the 30th, then I trek by myself back up to Qld by an as yet undesignated route. Fun hell yeah.

I do something similar in August as well with basically the same mob.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yes, sort of.
The plan is to camp either at Louth on the 10th (good friday) or maybe even north in the NP. Yanda Camp ground in Gundabooka NP.
From there we will leave the darling at Tilpa... en route to white cliffs. So we may not cross paths. I have a week to see it all... so it will be go go go.

[ramblingboy42]

Closest we'll get to White Cliffs is Milparinka and that'll be around the 27th.

When you are in Tibooburra , goto the roadhouse/post office. Talk to Mavis about any local (for her thats about 500km radius)road/weather/flood conditions. If she doesn't know she will find out for you while you wait.

Enjoy your trip , don't go so fast you don't enjoy it.

cheers Den

[Toxic_Avenger]

This marks another long overdue update.

A little matter regarding a pandemic and 'essential travel' put an end to the Corner Country trip I had planned over Easter. So I chilled out at home and played in the shed instead, and built a few storage racks for the stuff I've accumulated over the years. This had the pleasant outcome of making it a lot more functional space for making stuff.

The evolving shed space has given me the ability to get more into some of the fabrication projects I've had in mind for the Landy. Which brings us to the most recent project:

ROCK SLIDER BUILD

The (almost) finished product (needs blasting and paint):
https://i.imgur.com/YwCAQTBh.jpg

To see how I got there... stay tuned below!

Started with a bit of googling of rock slider images. I decided to stick to the 'classic' bar style, which fortunately for me is way easier to fab than some of the crazy tube jobs with wheel hoops, kickers etc...
The next step was to get the mounting points sorted. Most 90's use the front body mount (bulkhead) and ear body mount locations. I didn't buck the trend here, and used what was available.

Rear outrigger is approx 45mm dia.
https://i.imgur.com/CvKEjPVh.jpg

Front mount was mocked up in cardboard then cut from 5mm plate. This was then bent to allow the contour to match that of the outrigger.
https://i.imgur.com/aljc2rNh.jpg

Clamp in place, then a puff of tactical spray-paint to get the hole location:
https://i.imgur.com/mXQ468sh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7Du8BtQh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YVlSupAh.jpg

The rear tube was made from 32NB heavy wall pipe (approx 4mm thick). This is as close as I could get to a slip fit, with approx 2mm diff between OD and ID.
Collars for the tube mounting 'stops' were made with 2 suitably sized hole saws.
https://i.imgur.com/D03Ii7Lh.jpg
Tacked with tig wire spacers:
https://i.imgur.com/lra6Unoh.jpg
And fully welded.
https://i.imgur.com/I7ljsDlh.jpg

The rear mount needed a way to be secured to the car, so some M16 gal bolts were procured, linished, and welded to a holesaw slug which matched the ID of the 32NB pipe.
https://i.imgur.com/1BAZDTch.jpg
Then welded up, and later sanded smooth for a slip fit
https://i.imgur.com/VG5FcMYh.jpg

The slider itself is made from some 3"x1.5" heavy wall (~4mm) RHS. This was cut to length, beveled for aesthetics to match the wheel arch line, and capped.
https://i.imgur.com/s6leE8Lh.jpg

The slider body was notched with a holesaw to saddle the pipe, and maintain the rear height of the slider relative to the rear quarter panel. A mill or mag-drill with an annular cutter would be awesome for this, but alas, small shed means small tools. Plumb-bob used for alignment of outboard spacing beyond the vertical body line (~30mm).
https://i.imgur.com/WkcdkoFh.jpg
The front mount was lopped down to length using the same plumb-bob method.
https://i.imgur.com/pU02nAYh.jpg

As this was the first set I've made, I needed to make some welds for fit-up while items were attached to the car.
When this happened, all welding on the car needed the car to be electrically 'dead'- ie battery disconnected, and ECU removed entirely from the car. The factory manual recommends this.
https://i.imgur.com/Pfx4rAfh.jpg

This left us looking like this- supported by its own weight, and strong as a brick ****house.
https://i.imgur.com/KAhigV6h.jpg

Final weld-out was done on the bench, and a extra gusset put in for the front mount.
https://i.imgur.com/zkHnivsh.jpg

Tube work
What's a set of rock sliders without tube work? This was a bit I particularly enjoyed.
The bends were sourced from an industrial supply house, which negated the need for any pipe bending shennanigans. Spacing of the whole ordeal was eyeballed based off what looks good on the car.
https://i.imgur.com/Oql8jo8h.jpg

Pipe notching was done on the drill press with holesaw bits. If anyone wants to donate a mill to me, I'm listening!
Got it centered
https://i.imgur.com/MpOJAtAh.jpg
Started the notch
https://i.imgur.com/Buokx21h.jpg
Finished it up on the vice
https://i.imgur.com/5F8ZRTYh.jpg
Then off for a bit of fine-tuning with some die-grinding and sanding to get the proper heights.

https://i.imgur.com/x78XDu6h.jpg

The elbows were tacked on after a bit of alignment using some proprietary pipefitter tricks
https://i.imgur.com/Ok2x5h0h.jpg

And mocked up for final position
https://i.imgur.com/UfrhzU5h.jpg

The tube work was welded out on the bench, then the stand-offs were ground and sanded for a smooth finish. The welds to the slider body were left as-welded.
https://i.imgur.com/uEQ2uNCh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rJF1q8Th.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4h8fkYqh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CNlNvRLh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YwCAQTBh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cg8gpu2h.jpg


Mounting to the chassis is achieved through a big M16 nut and bolt (will end up using a Nyloc, or a second lock nut). Washers were made with (you guessed it!) a holesaw.
https://i.imgur.com/13ieY2Kh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uNeOmayh.jpg

Front mount piggy-backs off the body mount bolt, and a second bolt to be attached to the outrigger via a 'custom' hole [bigwhistle]

As they stand, sliders are a bespoke fit for this vehicle, with no movement. They even pass the hi-lift jack test!

Next week I'll send them off to be sand-blasted and powder coated.


https://youtu.be/FliqjUCS7fs

[Tombie]

About time you did an update!!!!

How have you been T.A [emoji38]

[Toxic_Avenger]

I've been well Mike. The shed is organised, and I've added a few new tools to the arsenal, and hopefully time permitting I'll get around to building more cool stuff for the mule.
I've got some ideas for a stainless sill tank, and some rear cargo area dump bins for all the loose bits that seem to float around when you own a 90.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Got the sliders powder coated and installed over the weekend. Turned out nicely. Like every other bloody rock slider out there for a defender, but at least I can say I built them myself.
There are a few errant grinder marks that the powder has magnified 11ty billion times, but will be nothing compared to the hiding I hope to give them on some rocks and trees into the future...

https://i.imgur.com/H48VpgLh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qjlP1sgh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xMTVKV9h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xHW8lmlh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gT8FuPqh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4811dCAh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rDx7Xm5h.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

Hi Guys. Remember me? That guy who somehow managed to write 500+ posts on designing and installing a dual battery system, and then wiring that to a winch with the most 'extra' industrial cabling, latching relays, and fuses you can only get at the stores department of a power plant... Well I'm back with a bit more.
Below is another punctuation in the story that is this defender.
I am clearly keeping the trend of infrequent yearly updates, this one being 18months from the last installment. You've earned it, so read on!

Some 4-wheeling action
After the rock sliders were built, there was a few local trips with some 4wd guys, just local stuff, a range of different vehicles, and all the usual rivalry that you get from that kind of crew. One fella was particularly impressed by my hairdresser's car. So much so that he gave his '94 rodeo a full send to the point that it was stuffed with a shatterd drag link. I spared him the distress of being towed out by a 'girls car'. Karma works great some days.
All in all, the Landy held its own, but there is always going to be some shortcomings when you start stacking it up against a 37" lifted and locked patrol or cruiser. I did what I could.
The few trips we did included some dumb stuff like this- lots of traction control noise, lots of wheels in the air, and lots of tipping one way and the other. Rock sliders earned their keep on that track.
https://i.imgur.com/QVeotCd.jpg

On the way home I started hearing an odd noise, which I documented on >>THIS THREAD<< (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/285244-help-id-driveline-noise-unbalanced-propshaft-something-else.html)

Despite all efforts, It was not diagnosed, and I continued on - it wasn't getting worse, nor could I isolate the problem. I was jimmying suspension components, checking play in bushes, removing rear prop shaft, messing with the phasing, re-greasing whatever I could find. It was an enigma, and it was something that I never suspected.
I was chasing an idea that the driveshaft was the culprit, and even got technical with the phasing on more than a few occasions to see if I could make that right. This is what I settled on for phasing, which is as per FSM, and approx 45 degrees as recommended.
https://i.imgur.com/AxvdRBm.jpg

I was so close, but so far. But more on that later... [cue ominous music to punctuate that last sentence].


Exhaust Rebuild

Around April 2021, I parked the car up and rebuilt the exhaust. This was for no particular reason other than getting some fab time, and replacing the beaten-up but fully functional centre muffler which had copped a few knocks over the years. Including that last trip.

As a bonus, this exhaust mod 'may or may not' have been a change the catalytic converter and centre muffer, resulting in a simpler, more streamlined system. The result is a bit more 'whooshy' exhaust flow kind of noise, no drone, a little louder, but definitely not obnoxious. I've had much worse on other cars (twin 2.5" straight thru system on a DOHC 3.0L V6 on a nissan 300zx for example - 92dB on idle, 105 at full song, crackling, popping, droning, it was a hoot).

When I say I rebuilt the exhaust, I actually built it myself. Bought pipe, mandrel bends, flanges, and stuck it all together with the TIG. Even bent up the hanger rods to suit the mounting points... It was a good fabrication / learning experience. It wasn't the cheapest exercise, given that the materials, bends, and labour sure do add up. But I'd probably still pay more at an exhaust shop, and I've seen some horrendous welding jobs come out of some of those places in the past, so I've got that going for me I guess. It was built to my acceptable level of quality, and if it fails, then that's on me.

Exhaust Removal -
Removing the exhaust is fairly simple. Just a heap of 13mm IIRC nuts and bolts. The cat converted I took off for 'inspection' did actually put up a bit of an irreversable fight:

https://i.imgur.com/Wy8crpT.png

Sawz-all won the fight.
https://i.imgur.com/tk5RQEc.jpg

Sourcing pats was a bit of fun. I went with an aluminised mild steel 2.5" system with mandrel bends throughout.
The first piece of the puzzle was the 'lipped flange' that is fitted to the turbo via a V-band clamp.
Dimensions if anyone is wondering:
https://i.imgur.com/ohJF7SV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FinhxjJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IGOBXx5.jpg

The other part was a flex coupling for the interface between the moving engine, and the somewhat static exhaust system.
https://i.imgur.com/UpeXoeM.jpg

All these bits were sourced via the exhaust shop. They were happy to sell bits to me with a retail mark-up. I was in and out to them about 4 times getting bits as needed, so not a complete waste of time. You can also find these parts online if so inclined- but need more planning on the bends if that's your plan.

The down-pipe turned out OK. Should allow lateral flex from the engine, with the vertical flex joint.
https://i.imgur.com/jTu2gtr.jpg

Next section was a pair of offset 45's to move the pipe towards the LHS of the car. From there it's esssentially a straight shot out the rear, over the diff.

https://i.imgur.com/nDGLowb.jpg



New Dag

Sadly, the little brown dog in some of the last posts got out the front and was hit by a car. It was not nice. But the fortunate outcome was that we were able to give a home to one of our dog's nephews. His mother was out late dog's sister from the same litter. They are special little accidents- part staffy, part jack russel.

This little bugger is Cliff. He has a cleft lip. He also has a micropenis, a single testicle, and a uterus. So yeah, a bit of a loveable little derp of a thing- scraped from the bottom of the genetic barrel to be what he is. He is one of those dogs that would have been put down had we not come along to save him.
https://i.imgur.com/J56Pn7Y.jpg


Cruise Control and Black Duck seat covers
For kicks, I installed a cruise control module to the mule. The brand was Autostrada, sourced from 4x4 industries (great fellas) and the install was fairly simple. The only downside is the little sticker that goes next to the LED light has failed to stick. If I were super keen, I'd probably disassemble the speedo cluster and mount it all in there. But too late for that as the holes have been drilled. I might get a little engraved plastic tag made up at an engraving shop, if inclined.

https://i.imgur.com/XwOMeHM.jpg

After a number of longer trips, especially out here in the North-west of NSW, long uneventful roads make cruise a nice feature. Plus I eagerly await to put more kilometers on the car, as it's still in the 50,000km range on the ODO. A fully maintained company vehicle has that pleasant effect on the other cars in the stable. That, and every time the fuel goes up, it's like getting a pay-rise :D

I also installed some grey canvas Black duck seat covers around the same time, and gave the interior a full detail while I was at it, to purge some of the persistent outback dust that gets everywhere. The covers fit well, they were fairly straight-forward to isntall, and look good to boot.


Disaster Strikes!

Some buddies and I decided to go camping, sink some cans, and drive some tracks. We met at the camp spot near the state forest one saturday morning in May 2021, and got ready for the first track of the weekend.
I've mentioned before, the devil's staircase on the boundary track on the Nundle state forest. It's a 1.5km long slog up a forest road, 30m sections of rocky shale and mud, with flat drainage contours of about a car length every so often.

I was still chasing that 'suspension noise' I mentioned earlier. It had not got worse, and was a metallic squeaking noise that occurred sometimes at various road and decelleration conditions. This didn't get in my way of a good time, and I tackled this climb with me and a passenger, and a 90's load-space worth of camping gear.

Half way thru the track, on a 30 degree steep section, 2-low, at full engine torque, something made a bang.
Forward movement stopped quite suddenly, so into reverse gear, dump the clutch to engine brake recovery backwards.
Oh****.jpeg Car kept gaining momentum backwards. Grinding noises. Locked LHS rear wheel as car starts to pivot, BACKWARDS, on the locked LHS rear wheel.
By this stage, I'm looking down into the abyss of this colossal hill, via the PASSENGER WINDOW. At this stage, I'm 45 degrees to the slope.
Front RHS gets light, whole car is sliding on the shale, ABS is doing that annoying PUMA thing where it wreaks havoc offroad.
For a brief moment, I feel the front RHS suspension unload, and the wheel lift off the track. We are going over...
.
.
.
Thankfully it settled, and I try to straighten up with a reverse. Still horrendous grinding and locked wheels. Drive is intermittent between the horrible noises. We manage to attach the winch to a car up the hill further, and get me to the next flat section.
Off comes the rear prop shaft trackside. CDL engaged, and FWD mode only, but now the grinding is in the front too.
It's immobile.
We end up winching the car around enough to get it pointing down the hill, and attach a snatch strap to allow gravity and my breaks to get me back down the hill. A 3 hour recovery.
We do the walk of shame - flat tow, back on the tar, to the campsite where we sink beers, cook a giant steak, and celebrate my birthday. 3 cheers for me!

The next morning, we arrange a tilt-tray. After some bush-mechanicing, we pull driveshafts, and prop shafts, and things are not pretty.
It's not the axles, and it's not the CV's. The T-case is doing it's thing.

After I get home the autopsy begins...

The AUTOPSY
Once the car arrived home, I snatched it into the backyard using the work car, and got it up on stands. The task of disassembling the rear differential commences.

The noise I was chasing was a sheared or failing cross-pin.

https://i.imgur.com/4S15hwl.jpg

If I were to guess the filure mode, it would have been a failure of the roll pin. This would have led to the pin walking back and forward in the carrier, and wear to the hole in which it sits. This was probably my mystery noise I was chasing.

When things went bad on that hill, the pin likely failed completely.
The gears bound. The shaft sheared in 2 different locations, and the whole thing fgell apart, SPECTACULARLY.

https://i.imgur.com/7nwC9Lw.jpg

One of the gears even made it's impression on the carrier:
https://i.imgur.com/GKtXxUG.jpg


So that's the rear diff.
The FRONT DIFF suffered a similar fate, at the same time.
What I think happened here was a result of the rear failing, and the TC being locked (F&R prop shafts spinning in sync).
When the front let go, all engine torque went thru the TC to the front diff.
This led to the pinion gear walking UP the ring teeth, shearing about a dozen teeth off.

https://i.imgur.com/HWtsogM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/pyeRfrH.jpg

So... Go me! Killed 2 diffs at the same time offroad. Surely there's an award or medal I can send away for?!

This triggered a road trip to dubbo in June 2021 to get a set of diff centre housings to get the car mobile again.
The mule is now part '98 disco 1.

I made up a special tool (which has since been given away to another forum person) to remove the stupid disco 3 hole diff flange arrangement. Pic for reference- in case anyone wants some advice on how to skin that cat in the future...
https://i.imgur.com/7TtqKhY.jpg

Out of this whole ordeal, Both pinion gears are rooted. both ring gears are stuffed. The rear centre carrier is well and truly rooted. The front centre shows some minor pitting that I may be able to either build up with some weld, and finish with a die grinder, or just buff the dings out to prevent stress risers forming if they end up back in service.

https://i.imgur.com/IYwag3z.jpg

In actual fact though, these parts will probably just be scrapped to make way for some built diffs.

I'm not sure what this will entail. I'd love to build some diffs from another non-rover vehicle (cruiser, patrol?), but realistically, I'll probably put some lockers, HD axles, a pegging kit, and a ring and pinion ratio change in the existing diff housings and that will be more than ample for tyres up to 37" (if ever that day becomes a reality).

That is where it currently stands on that front as a 'work in progress'.

[DieselDan]

You made a real good job of those diffs!!
Glad you managed to find some disco diffs as a temp fix.

Sorry to hear about your dag.
But Cliff looks very cute!

[MLD]

it's amazing how all the parts are just within their limit. one lets go and you get a cascading series of breakages.

hope you hugged your Mum after the experience.

[Toxic_Avenger]

You're not wrong. Mates in the rock crawling buggy scene scoff at the rover diffs, how weak they are I disregarded it as patrol/cruiser fanboy talk, but to some extent, I now agree - a failure in one took out the other. 2 poor design features taken out across two centres- the cross pin half failed, then catastrophically failed, exploiting the long pinion and ring gear flex. If the front was saved, I'd have driven out under my own steam. If I were really remote, or solo, I'd be cactus. My lack of a proper diagnosis didn't help the situation though, admittedly.

https://c.tenor.com/003oVpLcA4EAAAAC/uncle-roger-so-weak.gif

I think it would be a great fabrication project to build up some other vehicle diffs to suit the 90. I'm just not sure where I'd even start - what has been trail tested, what works within wheel track / centre location envelope, prop shaft location, pinion angles... might be beyond my little shed and lack of a flat concrete surface to work on. And that's before any engineering legal side of things is covered!

Interested to know from people that have tried and tested diff builds on these cars. I'm not afraid of a bit of cutting and shutting. Can weld. And dumb enough to give it a go.
The easy way would be to just throw wads of cash at the Ashcroft catalogue. I'm still unsure.

[jon3950]

The easy way would be to just throw wads of cash at the Ashcroft catalogue. I'm still unsure.

As someone who has just fallen down this rabbit hole, I can assure you it is still a lot of fun.

Cheers,
Jon

[Tombie]

Problem going to say a modified ‘trol diff is lost ground clearance.

Better to beef the std units up for all but the hardest of flogging. You’ll have more clearance.

[Vern]

Or do a Toy conversion

[MLD]

Mitch, reach out if you want the 'how to' build a ARB hybrid Rover/31 spline patrol locker with 31 spline axles etc. Peg the R&P and it will be strong as you can make a rover without going all exotic or chasing a rather well known reluctant entrepreneur to make you a bullet proof centre. Suits front and rear especially since you are Rover F&R. The other is a LRA F9" centre conversion but that is multiples of my idea and you still only have a 31 spline diff (well you could step up to 35 spline but would need custom bearing spindles and machining the hub for larger bearings).

[Toxic_Avenger]

As someone who has just fallen down this rabbit hole, I can assure you it is still a lot of fun.


I agree it probably would be. Not sure if something like this - building up a differential - needs to be part of the learning curve before tackling a full on diff conversion.


Problem going to say a modified ‘trol diff is lost ground clearance.
Better to beef the std units up for all but the hardest of flogging. You’ll have more clearance.

I understand, and this is where it might be possible to overcapitalise and the outcome, although stronger, would be a trade off in other areas. The 90 is a relatively small vehicle, comparative to the vehicles that have been mentioned- so while stock form has its limitations, maybe I've got enough performance capacity to work with in the factory package.
Last year, shortly after things went bang, I got a look under a GU ute (it was an ex Telstra utility) and the size of that diff is ridiculous. I've seen smaller on 5T forklifts.


Mitch, reach out if you want the 'how to' build a ARB hybrid Rover/31 spline patrol locker with 31 spline axles etc. Peg the R&P and it will be strong as you can make a rover without going all exotic or chasing a rather well known reluctant entrepreneur to make you a bullet proof centre. Suits front and rear especially since you are Rover F&R. The other is a LRA F9" centre conversion but that is multiples of my idea and you still only have a 31 spline diff (well you could step up to 35 spline but would need custom bearing spindles and machining the hub for larger bearings).

I appreciate this mark. I'll keep you posted if this become a possibility. I'll have to re-read your post over on your thread a few times just to grasp how it all works together though... I am but a simple man [bigrolf]

[Toxic_Avenger]

Just realised I hadn't added my favourite bit on the of my latest update post. For my sins, you lot get bonus content.

You guessed it! It's time for another...


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/532.jpg
TOOL REVIEW
Knipex pliers

https://i.imgur.com/IvJIYrZh.jpg

I've come to love the Knipex range, for well thought-out and quality gear. They are made by the Germans, so what's not to love. These 3 are proving to hold their worth in the shed and car tool kit.
Left to right, we have the 71-01-200 mini bolt cutters, then the 80-03-180 Pliers Wrench, and my newest acquisition, the recently released 82-01-200 Twin grip slip-joint pliers.

71-01-200 mini bolt cutters
Originally, my toolbox had a set of linesman pliers for cutting tasks. These have their limitations with getting close to the bits you want to cut, and also, have very little leverage for cutting harder materials. Over the years, I progressed to a diagonal cutter (Irwin), and later a Wiha compound leverage diagonal cutter. The latter I thought were pretty good, but still somewhat limited for the harder stuff.
These Knipex mini-bolt cutters are 200mm long, and have great leverage for cutting and snipping. I've been reaching for these for a range of wire snipping duties, cutting nails, and have really come into their own for low effort snipping of stainless steel TIG filler wire in the 3.2mm diameter- which are a pain with standard snips.

80-03-180 Pliers Wrench
These are magic - while a bit weird to look at, these are essentially a shifting spanner, but with a 40:1 leverage factor in them, meaning that you can grip super hard to effect a turn on a fastener. No slipping and rounding of nuts with these bad boys. For general use, one of these would go a long way to slimming down the number of spanners in a in-car tool kit - the fastener size range you can work with is quite impressive.
I've got a heap of sizes of these - the smallest pliers wrench is 125mm, up to the 300mm big bois, good for fasteners up to 68mm. They have flat gripping surfaces that move thru their range parallel to each other (completely different to water pump or slip-joint pliers), so can even come into their own for chromed pluming fittings or the AN fittings on performance application stuff. I go for these when I'm not sure what spanner I'll need, and most of the time (space around the fastener permitting), these do a great job. The grip strength allows for an acceptable oblique grip on a fastener, so I was able to use this for gripping a propshaft bolt on the diff flange from behind.

82-01-200 Twin grip slip-joint pliers
These are a surprising item. The idea made sense when I looked at them, and I've used them way more that I thought I would when I got them.
The twin-grip pliers are an all-rounder gripping tool. They allow gripping both perpendicular, and parallel to the pliers length. Great strong gripping surfaces which allow the gripping of munched up, rusty, or seized fasteners. Used them to great success on a 300zx trim screw under the car where the philips head was stripped out, and I needed to remove it - just grip the exposed shagged fastener, and twist it out. Normal pliers will struggle with a task like this, but it's a walk in the park for the knipex. I also find them getting double duties for removing MIG contact tips and nozzles, as well as gripping hot bits of steel in various projects. Superb for pulling a domed rivet head out once it's been drilled for removal. I think they'd possibly work well for vac and heater hose removal in a pinch, but might be a bit too aggressive for older, brittle hose. The series resto guys would probably love this for all the rusted-in body screws etc.

https://i.imgur.com/ix19nPBh.jpg


Stay tuned for the next post to drop sooner rather than later - I've got a small electrical Landy project that I'm currently working on, which needs some final testing before I release the idea to the masses... For some this would be a simple 5-min trick that may help some of you touring and camping folk.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I made a small, simple mod to the landy- a Dome Light Override Switch that can be easily accessed to power on the dome light in the rear cargo area.

Why this was needed:
I find that when I'm camping, the back is usually full of crap. Most of the time, I'll leave the doors open. The problem is, that when dark, it can be a pain to rummage in the back for stuff- juggling a torch, or having to climb up into the back of the car to switch the dome light from 'Door' to 'ON', and then back off again.

I thought to myself - "What If I could bring the light switch down to me? Somewhere more accessible?" So that's what I did.

Why the factory option doesn't work:
Most of us know the deal with car interior lights. 3 settings- On / Off / Door. On is always on. Off is always off, and in the defender, DOOR setting means that it will be on when the door is on - UNTIL the interior lighting circuit times out. When this happens, it's not a simple matter of opening or closing the door, or cycling the door switch by hand. The ECM kills that circuit to conserve battery. Car would need to be unlocked to reset the timer.

This is where a simple switch to easily turn the switch to 'ON' would be helpful.

This is a 50 cent mod. The process itself is very simple - the hardest part is to route the wires to wherever you want your secondary switch. It works for the MUD Stuff LED lights like I have, OR the standard LR dome light.

How to do it:
For starters, the wiring diagram:

https://i.imgur.com/6tMdDO7.png

https://i.imgur.com/hsvDZaR.png

The solid purple wire is the 'hot' 12V in from the battery
The black wire is earth
The purple/white is the door circuit power
What happens inside the ECU-Alarm unit is a bit of a mystery, but if I were to guess, when it senses that the door switch is earthed (door open), it will start the ECU timer allowing the power to flow from battery(purple wire)>LED>Purple/white wire>ECU>Earth at door switch.
Compared to being in the ON position: battery(purple wire)>LED>Black Wire>earth (header K108)

If that's too complicated, the simple explanation is that when the light is on 'Door' setting, we want the purple white wire to find earth NOT via the ECU and door switch, but via the black wire, in the light harness.


This is the mud stuff wiring harness, light side.
https://i.imgur.com/ZA8AoMbh.jpg
If you have the standard dome light, it's the same wiring colours, except any mod you do will be on the harness side, NOT the light fixture side, as shown.

First step: Cut and twist the BLACK and Purple White wires.
https://i.imgur.com/kblsON0h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1jfU1H5h.jpg

Second Step: Attache spade terminals (ideally, insulated)
https://i.imgur.com/4nuXj6dh.jpg


Third Step:Attach a switch of your choosing to complete the circuit.


I'm going to mount mine either in the rear cargo space door card, or possible in the rear trim panels. Undecided.
The annoying part is fishing the wires thru the roof lining to the chosen location. Trim clips annoy me- always a fine line between getting the trim piece off, or snapping things and lots of swearing.

Hope this helps anyone interested. might be of benefit for those who like to use their vehicles for the touring / camping kind of thing, and are looking for a bit more flexibility from the factory interior lighting circuit.

[harthomas]

Hi mate,

I saw a post you had put up in 2017 about a boost pipe recall bracket that you fitted. My boost pipe spilt on the drivers side of my defender 110 2.4 puma and seems to be rubbing against the steering shaft similar to the issue you had on your 90. Just wondering the bracket you used did you get this from the dealer or did you get online somewhere?

Many Thanks,

Harley

[Tombie]

Hi mate,

I saw a post you had put up in 2017 about a boost pipe recall bracket that you fitted. My boost pipe spilt on the drivers side of my defender 110 2.4 puma and seems to be rubbing against the steering shaft similar to the issue you had on your 90. Just wondering the bracket you used did you get this from the dealer or did you get online somewhere?

Many Thanks,

Harley

It was a recall. Comes from dealer.

[MLD]

Hi mate,

I saw a post you had put up in 2017 about a boost pipe recall bracket that you fitted. My boost pipe spilt on the drivers side of my defender 110 2.4 puma and seems to be rubbing against the steering shaft similar to the issue you had on your 90. Just wondering the bracket you used did you get this from the dealer or did you get online somewhere?

Many Thanks,

Harley

i use the snorkel to air filter box piping to zip tie to to lift the intercooler hose so it doesn't rub the steering arm.

[cuppabillytea]

Where is Mitch anyway?