Meet my 90, and share the adventure.

[Toxic_Avenger]

On 07.05.2014, I picked up a used 2012 defender 90 with 20,000km on it.

I've never been one to name my cars, but seems a few around here give them pet names as opposed to the usual 'The Land Rover' or 'The Holden/Ford/etc'. I'm thinking if I were to name the car, I'd call him Nug (a hybrid of Douglas, and Nugget. We'll see if the name sticks.

So far, its been a great journey through mud, stone, sand and clay... with a bit of highway in between for good measure.

The past weekend was spent in Newcastle to catch up with family and old mates. A few calls later, caught up with a mate to discuss the finer points of 4wd, since I'm a novice behind the wheel when on dirt. He has been involved with the tuff truck scene for years, as well as rock crawling buggies. his current ride is a shopped 60 series cruiser , which I'm keen to get behind the wheel of in due course. He's done a heap of navigating for comps, so thought I'd be in good hands to get some pointers after my first week of ownership.

We decided a trip to the tracks around mt Sugarloaf was in order, so nipped down to Edgeworth, ducked over the M1 pacific motorway, then climbed Mt Sugarloaf to find some action.

Somewhere along the way I ended up doing this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/617.jpg

And this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/618.jpg

...And this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/619.jpg
Guilty as charged.

On one of the tracks, we passed under the M1 (aka F3 freeway), and spotted a good photo op.
For a smart phone, I think it turned out OK.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/892.jpg

All in all, got to stretch the legs of the little 90, and I'm very impressed with how it handles the rougher stuff (within the limits of my experience 4-wheeling).

I'm hoping to keep this thread updated with my adventures, and document any progress I make on any future mods to the vehicle.

-mitch

[Toxic_Avenger]

I also took some footage, check out the YouTube link below:
Land Rover Defender 90 Mt. Sugarloaf Range Rd NSW - YouTube (http://youtu.be/bE82kXHV8cc)

[Babs]

Congratulations Toxic, good looking rig.

Keep the photos and video coming.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Toxic_Avenger]

June update:

Been busy at work recently, so not much happening out of the ordinary. Have however picked up some new storage solutions for the 90. This is a Pelican 1750 long case. Great for a rifle, shotgun, or in my case, a 48" hi lift, and all my recovery gear. Castor wheels are inbuilt, and all foam lined for a snug fit (i've removed bottom foam, keeping it in the lid only.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ird2y1qfflbr8qw/2014-06-21%2014.09.35.jpg


These cases are high strength plastic, are waterproof, dust-proof and generally just awesome gear. I'd recommend these cases for those people (like me) who are sick of the plastic tubs sold at bunnings, and are looking for a quality, long term solution.

I also picked up a shorter long case- a pelican 1720 which fits nicely in the back cargo area of the 90 with about 100mm gap. Not sure what I'll store in this yet, but know it will suit horizontal mounting on the roof rack.

I've got a much bigger 1630 case also. NB the 750ml bourbon and vodka bottles for scale. To put it in perspective, my girlfriend can fit inside nicely :wasntme:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0hxuwa0zk9d1q6b/2014-06-21%2016.41.51.jpg

I'm also testing out sharing images via the links to my dropbox account. Please let me know if these images are not visible on your end (they work OK for me, but are a https address).

[specwarop]

You spent $400 on 1 plastic case?

[Toxic_Avenger]

They're not the cheapest, but they are the best.
I've bought too much crap in the past, then had to buy it another 3 times when it wears out, breaks or doesn't perform as expected.

[specwarop]

There is better buckets available then what Bunnings has, that doesn't cost over $50, and far less then $400.

[Cammo]

Cant see the pics here....

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/460.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/461.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

Just found a few images online of pelican cases used in some expedition vehicles. While they may not be for everyone, they are definitely a good way to make good use of available space while restraining a load.

Pelican 1650 in a Defender 90
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/452.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/453.jpg

Another large case in a disco. Probably a 1630 or 1650.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/454.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/455.jpg

[tonyci]

There is better buckets available then what Bunnings has, that doesn't cost over $50, and far less then $400.

Hi specwarop, I have also been looking for something in between bunnings and the pelican type.
What have you found ?.
Cheers
Tony

[noogie]

I use an 80litre blue plastic space case from bunings for all my recovery gear and it's a very strong and well built case.

Steel handle at each end, dust sealed, steel hinges and two strong metal clamps that can be locked. Doubles as an awesome esky as well.

Cost me from memory $120.:D

[Toxic_Avenger]

So it's been a while since I've updated the latest happenings with my Defender.
Some recent additions are:

1) APT fabrications Diff sliders front and rear.
2) APT fabrications steering guard
3) Psimpson fuel cooler guard.
4) Mulgo ExBox (plus fuse block etc)
5) Mulgo Rear door strut kit.
6) Glove box for defender
7) Nugget stuff diff breathers / sealed airbox
7) ARB twin air compressor (mounted on Passenger side wheel arch)
8) Warn winch - XDC-s 9500lb

Looking to round out the vehicle with a rear bar tyre/jerry carrier, dual battery /solar setup, fridge and seat covers, then I'll play it by ear. Saving up the annual leave for a big adventure next year, hopefully will have it all finalized before then, when I can put some real Km's on it (only done 3,000km since May).


I'm finding a lot of my progress is being hampered by a lack of spare time, and contemplating the little things too much.
Currently working out the electrics for the ex-box. I want a central 'go to' point for all things electrical. I want to pre-empt any future wiring requirements with spare cable, so I can minimise the destruction of the interior if I need to add another circuit.
Initial plans is a positive feed to the ex-box with a permanent 12v supply via a fuse block, and a IGN switched fuse block. I want to run an interior 'hot' anderson plug setup for jumper cables, as well as suitable outlets for a future car fridge. The puma battery box is a bit of a nightmare to work in, but with some planning, I'll be shooting for a dual battery setup with a Voltage sensing relay, and some provision for solar charging (smart charger)... so expect some future posts on this subject! This topic is proving to be more involved than I first thought!

[noyakfat]

:ttiwwp:

come on man!!! Show us the new bits...

:D

[Toxic_Avenger]

To be honest I have not been taking too many pictures of it!
The new bits are fairly standard fare... I'm sure everyone has seen an APT steering guard, and an ARB bull bar :p Where I want mine to stand apart from the rest is execution. The wiring in particular is in a sorry state, the spotlight install was a bit 'how ya goin' with tufts of scrunched up wire stuffed in the engine bay in random places... so I'm hoping to get it all squared away ton a somewhat factory appearance.

A recent acquisition- one of these:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/380.jpg
...should help to tidy everything up.
It's a dymo label machine, but has the ability to print direct to heat shrink, and also use 'industrial strength' labels. Will be invaluable for the ex-box install, and other wiring throughout the vehicle.

Once I get my act together and tidy up some of the unfinished projects, give it a good old wash, and have it in a somewhat presentable state, I might get some more detail shots.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Had a productive weekend pottering around on the defender. I don't have a man cave, so most of my work is done under a car port - So weather can make the job a pleasure or a pain in the ass. The weather made the work bearable... only gripe was the bloody mosquitoes.


1) Trial fit of winch - warn XDC-S 9500lb.
Mocked it up in the ARB bar, fits well. The clutch engagement lever was positioned 180 degrees from the 'feet' of the winch. In this position, it clears the front grille by approx 10mm throughout its range of movement. Before I wire it in for good, I'll Try clocking the clutch lever 45 degrees anti clockwise. By Eyeballing it, this should make it much easier to access from the top of the bull bar (I wouldn't want to be swimming thru a mud hole to engage the lever if I can help it).
I invested in some new winch bolts. Turns out I lost the OEM fasteners which were supplied with the winch, but a quick trip to bunnings and with some 3/8" High tensile fasteners in hand, I was right to go. I opted for the 1.5" long bolts for the top, and 2" long for the bottom (the bottom needs to pass thru the hawse, bar, and winch feet).

2) Fitted a Mulgo gas strut kit for the rear door.
This was a basic job, but i messed up and it ended up taking a bit longer.
I broke out the trusty trim removal tools and popped the rear door trim off, gave everything a good clean while I was at it.
The removal of the old hardware was simple, as was the installation of the new parts. Pro tip: S**tty drill bits tend to wander. Somehow I managed to get a hole for the door mount nutsert out by 3mm. This was likely when the 9mm drill bit grabbed and messed up the hole. A beer and a bit of quality time with a rat tail file on the mulgo bracket made amends.
I ended up trimming the bottom of the door card to fit around the door bracket. Usually I'm against this kind of thing, but given that it's in a spot that is not visible, not a single f*** was given.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/24.jpg

Shot of behind the door card for reference:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1002.jpg

3) Nugget's Diff breathers:
Also mounted a Nugget stuff diff breather kit. I'm still to install the diesel tank breather. Also a easy job, just a bit of gymnastics in the engine bay to retrieve the breather lines. A bloke of my stature should not be climbing all over the guards of his new car :eek:
Got the lines labelled up and ready to be plugged in once I route the diesel tank line. It's a bit OC, but having everything labelled will pay off if SHTF, and I need to track down a fault with any of the work I've done on the vehicle. Or more likely than not, I forget the details of my own work. :o
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/25.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

One of the concurrent jobs Iv'e been working on is the Ex box install. I've been nutting out a few ideas, and reviewing what others have posted in my other thread (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/208698-how-have-you-layed-out-your-ex-box.html#post2258146)

I'm going to bite the bullet and move the under seat electrics across as it's turning out to be a one of those jobs that I'd rather do right the first time and do it once. Warranty issues will be dealt with if they arise.


Taking a page from Nugget's book, I've got some insulation and aluminium adhesive tape from a fridgy mate which should keep the in-box temps somewhat lower than standard. Normal highway driving at 100 makes the ex box hot to the touch from radiant gearbox / TC heat. When the ex box replaces the metal plate in the floor, this is only going to get worse.

For the power side of things, my project plan is this:

Relocate electrics from under the drivers seat
establish single point for wiring - constant 12V and 12V switched with Ignition
Ciga and 5V USB charging capability
Easy removal of Ex Box if required (limited cabling to and from box)
Privision of jumper cables hard wired direct to battery via anderson plug
Provision for fridge power at rear
Forward compatible with air compressor / diff lock / switchgear as required


The plan is to have a single battery supply (and earth) entering the ex box from the bottom, routed thru the spare grommet in the inboard side of the battery box (in addition to OEM wiring).
From there, I'm looking to run a Positive and Negative Bus Bar for the main power feed.

Off this, there will be 2 ea 100A circuit breakers on the positive feed, similar to Chook's setup (as per thread link above). This will protect the total current draw of the baintech fuse blocks. The Negative end of the fuse block will run back to the negative Bus bar.

I will be running a big mofo SPST relay (200A) in the ex box to effectively create a new ignition switched circuit within the ex box. This means I will only need to run a single 12V ign signal wire from somewhere in the cab to supply this, without needing to piggy back off a factory circuit.
The 12 IGN switched circuit will be dedicated to one of the two fuse blocks - the plan is to have one running on constant 12V, and one on 12V IGN switched. It seems this is the most intuitive way to wire accessories, as I do not currently have a Dual battery system, and from what I understand, a battery controller system will manage where the power comes from in any case.

From the fuse blocks, each circuit will be fused as needed.
Circuits I have are:
Spotlights (25A)
LED light bar x2
UHF (IGN)
Air compressor switch (IGN)
Sub/amp


I've got a few iterations of different circuit diagrams I've devised, but the real test will be seeing how it all works together in the 'real world'.

That being said, if anyone has any ideas (or if you think I'm likely to burn the car to the ground) please post below!

If anyone has any input on which gauge cable to run, please also chime in. I've got some 6B&S and 6mm and 8mm lugs to suit, which over a short run should be good for up to 100A. I'm thinking running 25mm2 cable (3gauge/B&S) to the Bus Bars should be sufficient.

I've got a working knowledge of electrics, but this side of the project is new to me. Most of my past tasks when it comes to this side of things has been fault finding and wiring accessories. So It's something new and interesting to be able to design and build this setup to meet my requirements.


Since you guys and girls love pics, below is some I took of some cable crimping I've done. The right crimp tool and lugs really does make the wiring a joy to work with. This is 6B&S cable , approx 14mm2 conductor area. This is the start of one of the feed lines to a fuse block.
Stripping the cable
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/17.jpg

Insert lug
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/18.jpg

Crimp Lug
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/19.jpg

Heat Shrink
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/20.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

Mud map of the ex box wiring. Its amazing how simple it looks, but in reality there will be wires everywhere!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/2.jpg

I was trying out an online circuit drawing program, anyone know anything that is free and useful for 12V stuff? I did the above in circuit lab, but it boots you out after a 10 minute trial... :mad:

[DiscoMick]

Those are nice cases, but my local Bunnings has the grey heavy boxes (forget brand) that do a good job and cost less.
Nice 90 BTW.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I like pelican cases. I'm a bit of a consumer whore in that regard.


Today I Finalized the nugget stuff diff breather install.
Turns out my vehicle had a 8mm poly pipe breather for the diesel tank (Probably just another Land Rover quirk).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/864.jpg


To overcome this, I cobbled together a few fittings to adapt from 8mm to 6mm and off I went. I used a 8mm press on poly fitting to 1/8BSP male. The other end was a 6mm press on poly fitting to 1/8BSP male. The coupler in the middle is a 1/8BSP female/female. I may change this out for something less beefcake if it becomes a problem. The going rate on ebay for these couplers (made in plastic) is about a dollar ex China. :eek:

Routing the diesel tank breather between RHS rear chassis rail and floor tub:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/865.jpg



The fitting:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/866.jpg



P clamp and tek screw bracket:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/867.jpg



All finished and routed back to the engine bay:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/868.jpg

I routed the diesel tank line along the chassis rail, secured to the diesel supply lines. Nipped up the RHS wheel arch, then behind the brake booster and across the top of the firewall secured to existing wiring.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Todays adventure was installing Nugget's sealed airbox kit.

My vehicle has a safari snorkel which was fitted at ARB by the previous owner. Upon investigation, it was actually installed fairly well, as there was traces of silicone at all the joins in the intake tract.

Some pics:

Inner wheel arch liner removed

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/715.jpg


Stock airbox configuration

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/716.jpg


Air intake with snorkel removed

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/717.jpg


S. Much. Silicone.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/718.jpg


Removing the old intake ducts
I persevered trying to remove the factory ducting without cutting it. I was able to prise the press fit long duct tube apart from the air intake box pictured below. From there I was able to spin it in situ, then slide it out the wheel arch.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/719.jpg


Removing the long air duct tube to the airbox would be possible, but would involve removing the wheel arch proper. I opted for a small hack saw and a bit of help from Mr Emerson to get the rest of the job done.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/720.jpg


Smurf Murder
Sealed the crap out of the airbox with the supplied liquid gasket goo. By the time I was done, I looked like I'd murdered a smurf.
After the deed was done, I wiped it all up, and cleaned the outside mating surface. The remains of the sealant from the snorkel install were still on the vehicle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/721.jpg


Diesel tank breather tube relocation
I moved the diesel tank breather tube to a more protected spot. It is cable tied to the chassis outrigger, then up to the aerial, then cable tied to a wiring loom in the engine bay.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/722.jpg


Next project- Mounting the winch solenoid box
I'm going to make up a bracket to hold the winch solenoid box within the wheel arch. While it was all apart, I made up a template to cut on some sheet steel. I've got some 2mm sheet at work i can plasma cut to shape, and I'll probably bend up a piece of 3mm Bar to match the radius of the wheel arch. It should be pretty easy to tig it up, give it a lick of paint, and she'll be apples.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/723.jpg

I'm not sure if this is the norm (compared to previous model defenders), but the puma wheel arch liner is a hard plastic, So I'm apprehensive to have a solenoid pack mounted on the wheel arch alone. The bracket I have in mind will mount both to the wing and the wheel arch via some fasteners accessed from below. In any case, it will allow a point to mount the remote control radio pack for the winch, and the wired remote plug.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Quiet day in the office means some play time out the back.
Here are some progress shots on the bracket, AKA "Dodgy bracket V1.0". She ain't pretty, but will do the job.
There was a few iterations, but the final piece was made from 2mm sheet, with a 5mm piece heated and bent into shape in the vise.
Finished with some cold gal paint and and some satin black in the coming days.


Rough shaping cut with the plasma at 25A. The swirling of the plasma jet created quite an angled cut, but a nice fine kerf. Nothing the grinder can't fix
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/686.jpg

Post welding. A few dags and rough spots, but fit for purpose.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/687.jpg
I was using a 170A stick welder as a scratch start TIG on 80A. Probably a little too cold to get full penetration into the 5mm plate, but I was having difficulty with the arc wandering in places. Probably in part due to a contaminated tungsten and my general lack of skill :p

All tigged up, and ground down.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/688.jpg

I know it's a sign of too much heat in the job, but.... 'Dat colouring
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/689.jpg

Mock up, after a few coats of cold gal. Need to lop a bit more off the top to get it to sit right.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/690.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/691.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/692.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

Today I mapped out the placement of the winch solenoid on its bracket, and drilled the holes. I gave it a quick coat of satin black on one side the other day, but then decided to leave it until after all holes are drilled...

Using a paint pen, I marked the holes for the top wing mounting points, and the bottom guard mounting locations with the bracket on the vehicle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/591.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/592.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/593.jpg



Trial assembly: Rear

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/456.jpg


Front (will be facing engine):

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/457.jpg


With this setup, I will be able to have the winch wireless control permanently connected, and the wired hand piece easily connected if needed.
There is plenty of room for the winch solenoid box and associated cabling within the wing, and it is easily accessed via the removable port if needed. I will need to extend the motor ground cable and a signal wire from the winch motor to the new solenoid location, but that will be a simple task.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Also took the opportunity to clock the winch clutch lever to a more suitable location for the ARB bar.
Due to the bolt holes not lining up in the ideal location, I'm about 15 degrees off perpendicular.

Did a pull-down of the winch gearbox, and gave everything a good coat of fresh grease which will probably see it good for the next 12 months.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/587.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/588.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/589.jpg

***hands too greasy to take more photos at this point***

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/590.jpg
...ready to put the cap back on.


Other threads have mentioned that when you mount the winch, you need to ensure that the drain hole is at the lowest point (on the winch motor side).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/586.jpg

Looking at the brains trust: is this what a drain hole usually looks like?

I'm guessing this will just be a matter of removing the 2 bolts on the end cap of the winch, then rotating the motor housing? I really don't feel like disassembling the motor as most previous attempts at this have had me searching for the brushes and springs that inadvertently fly out...

[Tombie]

Other threads have mentioned that when you mount the winch, you need to ensure that the drain hole is at the lowest point (on the winch motor side).



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/586.jpg



Looking at the brains trust: is this what a drain hole usually looks like?



I'm guessing this will just be a matter of removing the 2 bolts on the end cap of the winch, then rotating the motor housing? I really don't feel like disassembling the motor as most previous attempts at this have had me searching for the brushes and springs that inadvertently fly out...


Doesn't rotate like the other end... There should be another further round...

Find the other one and Plug the one there with a dab of silicone

[Toxic_Avenger]

You saw it first...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/455.jpg

I've modified the Ex box to have a double decker feature.
I feel it works better with the feng shui of the whole thing. And I'll also be able to keep the bus bars and other nasty wiring on the bottom, and the fuse blocks where they might be a little more accessible.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/456.jpg


I've gone with some sheet steel painted satin black.
There is a piano hinge and some pop rivets to allow it to swing up and out of the way for access to the lower levels.
The latch is made of some 3mm aluminium angle which I've tapped and threaded for retaining some stainless M5 cap head bolts. The securing side of things will be managed with wing nuts.


The ex box is not square, and is a somewhat complex shape, so there has been a lot of measuring and laying out of the components before getting to this stage. Including a bit of a snafu with the holes for the wing nut latch (which are now slots). V2.0 may correct this...

What I currently know is that the highest component on the ground floor is a blue sea systems 250A bus bar with a cover at approx 78mm tall. I'll have 20mm above that, and 45mm of Baintech fuse block, leaving approx 15mm to the ex box lid (keeping in mind the nutserts which are in certain locations of the lid).

Over the coming days I'll be laying out the electronics on the ground floor and doing some wiring. I'm banking on a max 250A draw for the whole box, split between 2 fuse blocks at max 100A each with circuit breaker, and each accessory circuit fused to max 30A (as per Baintech's recommendations).

Main idea is to run 25mm2 wiring as the main feed to the bus bar, then I've got the option for tapping direct off the bus bar if needed (ie anderson plug, jumper cable etc).

More progress shots as they become available.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Double decker Ex-Box flap V2.0 is go!
Used the original (mark 1) which was square to tweak the new design.
Again, 1.6mm sheet steel, cold gal coat (pictured), and a satin black finish.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/274.jpg

The Ground Floor Layout
The Blue sea Systems fairy delivered a bucketload of goodies, which I promptly began assembling into the ex box.

I created a template board using an offcut of pine, and marked out the inside dimensions of the ex box, taking care to mark out occlusions for the ciga socket and USB charging areas.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/275.jpg

After I had it all laid out, I started cutting and crimping the cables to make the connections.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/276.jpg

I traced the outlines of the components to the board...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/277.jpg

Marked existing holes with tracing paper...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/278.jpg

And transferred holes to the bottom of the Ex Box (taking note of the orientation.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/279.jpg

Finished!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/280.jpg
The relay output will feed the ignition switched fuse block.
The circuit breaker output will feed the 24hr 12V fuse block.

Doing the layout this way saved derping around in the ex box once installed in the vehicle. which I loathe to do in the middle of summer in this part of the country.

For the flap, I've marked out the fuse block positions ready to drill, but have run out of M4 cap head bolts to secure them to the sheet steel. I want to minimise sharp bits in the ex box wherever possible, save chafing and potential shorts in the future.

The more astute amongst you may have thought to yourself: "How is he going to get power and earth into the ex box?"
Once the ex box is in the vehicle, I'll pull across the electricals from under the drivers seat. I will then find the best place to install the through-post terminals for the main feed and earth return. These through-posts will help keep the ex box as dust proof as possible, while also being way neater than grommets silicone etc.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/281.jpg

In other news...

The 400A T type fuse and holder for the winch has arrived, and just awaiting some time to get installed on the vehicle.

I've got all cabling for the winch and control box relocation ready to cut and crimp, again, just awaiting time to install.
The uber bracket in the above post, is also ready to install.

Next steps will be some kind of dual battery arrangement. But the project plan will probably begin with battery tray and battery selection before working out what space I have to work with.

[Toxic_Avenger]

More progress shots...

Currently bare on the front and rear, but plenty of room for accessories and switchgear down the track.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/225.jpg


The shelf is raised above the circuit breakers on the bottom, with plenty of room to spare for wiring and clearance to the lid.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/226.jpg


Plenty of room on the flap to upgrade to 12 circuit fuse blocks if needed ( the width of the flap was determined with this in mind).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/227.jpg


I've made a aluminium angle 'shelf' for the flap to sit against, and tapped it to accept M5 bolts screwed from underneath. I use wing nuts on the top.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/228.jpg



Nice and compact down below, without being too cramped.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/229.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/230.jpg

Still have plenty of room to use proper connectors on the back of the Carling switch(es). Pictured is for the air compressor.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/231.jpg

I'm happy with it for now, I'll wire in a anderson plug or other suitable socket for a fridge when the time comes.
The aim now is to get it into the vehicle ready for some 4 wheeling / camping after Christmas.


If anyone wants / needs any dimensions or parts listings used in this build (for their own personal use), shoot me a PM.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Time to get back into it!
Spent the last week and a bit doing the christmas thing.

Notable moments / trips were:

Mount sugarloaf, Lake Macquarie, NSW
Went for a wheel up Mount Sugarloaf, did a few lines along a track leading down to 'queensland gates'. I went from the top down, but didn't attempt the gates, instead taking the track back up[ the hill.
Those not familiar with the track can check out a video of some jeeps attempting it here (not my video):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wj6BXpF1Obo&t=4m57s

The track:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1140.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1141.jpg

There was another track nearby called Hub Hill, which was littered with smashed axles... not for me either :o




On the sugarloaf entry road, there is a few tracks to the side. I decided to test it out...

Suddenly a wild defender appears!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1142.jpg
You use centre diff lock and low range, dealing tyre smoke and forward momentum. It's super effective!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1143.jpg




Tin City, Stockton Beach, NSW

Did my first real sand driving. I'm not much of a fisherman, rarely swim, so beach driving was mainly to climb sand hills and derp around. Sadly, the interesting parts of the worimi conservation lands have been sold off to private enterprise (sand mining), or are locked for environmental reasons / aboriginal cultural sites. So not much of interest there other than lunch at Anna Bay up the other end.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1144.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1145.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1131.jpg

Went with a mate with a twin turbo 4.2 GU patrol, and another with a civvie spec H1 Hummer (mil spec plus creature comforts).
The hummer was particularly capable, and was a great sight to see on the beach. Pro tip: the cockpit of the hummer is as snug as a defender! the driveline sits in a 1m wide hump within the vehicle, to allow max clearance underneath. With 37's stock, and portal axles all round, I'd love to see one of these on a more challenging track. Definately a capable rig worthy of it's heritage- amazing how similar the two vehicles are - it's like the defender of the USA (albeit with 3 times more engine, and a bajillion times more street presence). I actually pooped a little when I saw it in my rear vision mirrror.


Cotton-Bimbang National park, Oxley Highway, NSW

Did a sneaky overnight trip to the Maxwells flat camping area in the Doyles River State Forest. Did some driving along the Cells river in that area. Other than the recent rain and an imperial ass-tonne of leeches, it was a great spot. Plenty of areas for a secluded camp, nice streams, and fairly accessible tracks. Not for the serious track hunter though- you'd probably get bored. Stopped by 'the Hilton' cabin in the forest, I think it was featured in a 4wd action DVD once, it looked like Roothy had signed the eave of the structure (along with everyone else).


That's all the adventures I've had in the 90 up to today. Only damage sustained was a torn off mud flap at sugarloaf (this is the second one! 90's love to do this it seems), and a cracked safari snorkel top piece due to a tree in the wrong place on an increasing side angle.

Until next time,
Cheerio.

[ozy013]

Time to get back into it!
Spent the last week and a bit doing the christmas thing.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1131.jpg

Went with a mate with a twin turbo 4.2 GU patrol, and another with a civvie spec H1 Hummer (mil spec plus creature comforts).
The hummer was particularly capable, and was a great sight to see on the beach. Pro tip: the cockpit of the hummer is as snug as a defender! the driveline sits in a 1m wide hump within the vehicle, to allow max clearance underneath. With 37's stock, and portal axles all round, I'd love to see one of these on a more challenging track. Definately a capable rig worthy of it's heritage- amazing how similar the two vehicles are - it's like the defender of the USA (albeit with 3 times more engine, and a bajillion times more street presence). I actually pooped a little when I saw it in my rear vision mirrror.


.

Look's like a great time was had.

I also had the same pooping experience with a H1 many years back near Walhalla, Vic.
I was heading up out of Deep Creek 1 track, in my old 130, and the H1 was on his way down. The track back then was extreme, very steep, washouts, ledges, and loose boulders. Nowhere to pass for 2 standard vehicles, let alone a Hummer.
After some creative track building we got by.
I watched it go all the way down to the creek, and your right they are an amazingly capable rig. I usually only ever see them in the big smoke, what a waste!
Ps, the double decker exbox is pure genius :BigThumb:.

Cheers, Ian.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I watched it go all the way down to the creek, and your right they are an amazingly capable rig. I usually only ever see them in the big smoke, what a waste!
Ps, the double decker exbox is pure genius :BigThumb:.

Cheers, Ian.

Thanks Ian,
I was amazed by the level of engineering on the hummer. If anyone sees one, have a closer look, they are a well thought out design.

Thanks for the feedback on the ex box. Sometimes I surprise myself with my own inventions :p

[Toxic_Avenger]

The winch is in, and the wiring is now half done!

Back in post 22 and 23 of this thread, I manufactured a bracket to hold the solenoid box for my winch, relocating it to the top of the wheel arch, directly below the false air intake vent on the drivers side wing top. Kudos to Tikka7mm08 whose pic here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/200445-moving-winch-solenoid.html#post2174757) gave me the idea.

I opted for 50mm2 welding cable to run from the F1 F2 and A terminals on the winch back to the solenoid box. With the winch in situ, it was an easy task of lining up the wiring and making up the cables (with some extra attention to detail, for good measure). I made all cables 1.3m long, which has plenty of leeway for future winch upgrades if needed. In a pinch having the cables at 1.2m would work fine.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1091.jpg
I used 50-8 lugs for these components. 50mm2 cable, with 8mm lug hole. I crimped them on with a cable lug crimping tool (similar to a set of bolt cutters, but with crimping dies instead of a cutting blade).
Sometimes it's a pain in the arse to get the copper strands into the lug. What I do here is wrap some electrical cable around it to tighten it up, then force it all in, then slowly unwrap the tape to get the last bit in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1092.jpg
I used 2 types of heat shrink - the black one is a extra thick heat shrink with a glue core, which is great for keeping the connection clean. From what I have researched, heavy cabling such as this is most likely to fail at a connection point, and this can be due to oxidation of the copper due to moisture ingress etc. For future proofing it, I used this, as well as a coloured tab which corresponds to the coloured Post markers which Warn uses on their winches (along with the F1 F2 and A markings).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1093.jpg
I used a MAPP gas torch to shrink the heavy tubing down. If you look closely, you can still see my finger print embedded into the molten plastic ;)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1094.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1095.jpg

All finished, with grommets installed before the lugs and heat shrink (pro tip!).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1096.jpg
The cables were routed from the winch terminals on the Drivers side of the winch, over the chassis rail / bullbar mounting point, and down to the panel which sits directly below the Driver's side headlight.
I drilled 3x 25mm holes, and used 1 inch grommets
http://cdn.specktra.net/b/b5/50x50px-ZC-b566f96f_CloseEnough.png

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1097.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1098.jpg
I also used the supplied silicone boots for the cables I made up. If anything, this will keep the terminal posts that little bit more corrosion free. If I want to go full retard, I might even fill them with dielectric grease.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1099.jpg

With my bracket installed, it's all fairly compact in there.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1100.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1101.jpg
The winch itself also has a black earth cable and a brown wire which need to be extended. I will cut the wires as shown (with a correct tool ;) ) and they will follow the same route as the heavy cable.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1102.jpg
If you are playing along at home, the screws for the wing top cover will potentially wear thru the cables. I just cut mine down to length for good measure. I might look at some new screws when I can.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1103.jpg
From the engine bay looking in, it's a fairly sleek and stealthy install. should not get in the way of any mechanical work, and is still fiarly easy to access as long as you have a phillips head screwdriver and a 13mm wrench for the cable lug bolts.


Next step is to plan the cable route and measure what lengths I'll need for the latter half of the cabling.
The plan was to run 70mm2 cable from here back, which should give approx 0.6V voltage drop over a 6m span at 50 degrees C, and 360A draw. Warn recommends <1v drop for their winches, and 360A is the amperage draw for the full 9500lb pull on the first layer of the drum for my winch. Realistically, Its an ass-tonne of overkill, but it's a safety net should I need it (and a good way to spend a afternoon tinkering on the landy to boot!).

[Tombie]

Looks good...

2 suggestions.

Boots at winch motor - or a small impact can become a nice fire.

Cover the cable where it exits the area beneath the light and turns over the metal.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Looks good...

2 suggestions.

Boots at winch motor - or a small impact can become a nice fire.

Cover the cable where it exits the area beneath the light and turns over the metal.

Thanks for the suggestions!

I've got silicone boots on the cables at the winch motor, I just haven't stretched them over the posts in that pic.
I've got a T-Type 400A fuse lined up to go on the positive cable close to the battery, and will also try to get an isolator switch in there somewhere - still undecided on what type of switch though, but have seen a suitable rotary switch option in the blue sea systems catalogue which sort of took my fancy.
This should take care of the accidental short if it occurs.

Not captured in the pics is the cable tying of the wire bundle, I've tied them up in a triangle shape, and there is clearance, but you make a valid point.
Something like this should do the trick I'd think?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1080.jpg
Another option is some kind of spacer which can be mounted to the lip and clamp the cables down.
I've seen options by swagelok, but not sure what they do for a 3-cable gang at the nominal 16.5mm cable OD I'm using.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1081.jpg
I've got my eyes on some of that poly cable wrap, but getting it to a diameter of a 50mm might be a challenge for the small length I'd require (approx 1m).
They use it in hydraulics applications, so might go and see my friendly local hydraulics bloke and see what they have to offer.

[numpty]

Looking good Mitch.

I'm in the process as you know, of rerouting all my auxiliary electrics and you seem to have all the right tools for the job ;)

[Toxic_Avenger]

Looking good Mitch.

I'm in the process as you know, of rerouting all my auxiliary electrics and you seem to have all the right tools for the job ;)

You supply the shed space, and I'll bring the gear. My car port and living room table "workbench" can only hold so many projects at a time!
I've got some gear left over too, which would help. I bought bulk packs of the coloured heat shrink, and I only used 30cm of the 1.5m long glue lined tubing. Can get a decent rate on welding cable thru work.
Sing out when you want to have a crack at it

[Toxic_Avenger]

Well bugger me.
I'd heard about the (lack of) quality of the wiring in land rovers, but what I found today was worse than I expected:
Tin foil crimps
Electrical tape haphazardly bandied about said joins
Shorts just waiting to happen.
I've got better wiring in my 1980's vintage Datsun!

Today I took the task of relocating the Puma's fuse block to the Ex Box. While the wiring leaves a little to be desired, I managed to tape it all nicely together, and re-route a few of the more oddball wires along a more direct route. A later project will be to take the fuse block back out and spend an evening in front of the TV soldering said joints together and applying heat shrink.

Or maybe I could in vest in a jar of this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1032.jpg




Before shot

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1033.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1034.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1035.jpg



After

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1036.jpg

As an aside, I think I've found a new favourite electrical tape. Picked up some 3M Super 33+ tape from Cetnaj. it's a vinyl tape, and IMO is way better than the Nitto stuff I usually get. It's thinner, more flexible, and stick like **** to a blanket - great for wrapping wiring looms!


Ex Box insulation

I took a page from Nugget's build thread and decided to insulate the bottom of the Ex box. Without this, I think it would be possible to have it double as a camp oven! Electrical resistance increases with temperature, and the circuit breakers I am using are rated to a temperature, so for the wiring's sake alone, this is best practice.

I acquired an offcut of some closed cell PE foam matting with adhesive back and foil front (used in AC work).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1037.jpg


Sealed the edges with some foil tape

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1038.jpg

...This stuff is supposed to be a 'cold weather formula' so I did some testing to see if it was up to task.

I took 2 pieces and subjected them to the most extreme environment I could think of (around the house):

In the freezer on top of the ice cream for half an hour...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1039.jpg

In the oven at 150 degrees C for 15 minutes...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1040.jpg

After being subjected to these conditions, the tape was still tacky to the touch, was able to stick to itself, and still had good (albeit less) tensile strength. For my purposes, that is a win, bot for the tape, and the scientific method! :BigThumb::banana:


...So I used the foil tape to line the foam backing as well as seal the exposed foam edges of the ex box.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1041.jpg

Tool time!
I don't know how I have survived without one of these for so long. Tensions and cuts to length with a few quick squeezes.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1042.jpg


Spiteful grommets are spiteful
The Ex box holes are a snug fit for the grommets. I had the seats out and was standing over the box yanking and pulling to get it to seat, but it seems one grommet was too big for the hole (that's what she said).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1043.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1044.jpg

A wise man once said- "when in doubt, get the lube out".

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1045.jpg
Crisis averted.


Modifying fuel line brackets for securing ex box
The fuel line brackets are 2 of the 4 mounting points for the ex box.
In my case, the insulation requires a longer bolt than what is supplied in the bracket.
In someone's wisdom, the bolt in the bracket seems to be riveted in, and cannot be removed.
What I did was drill it out to 5mm, and replace the 5mm bolt with a longer, shinier 5mm bolt. +100 bling points.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1046.jpg

Going to weld the bolt head to the bracket tomorrow AM, and it should be as good (if not better) than new.
Then it's a matter of bolting it in, and drilling the positive and negative thru holes for the power supply thru terminals, and make some cables up to the battery box proper.

[Toxic_Avenger]

And today's efforts was mainly tidying up the last tasks on the ex box, and re-fitting the interior.

Some pics of the 99% finished project:

Cut a hole in the insulation for installation of the thru terminals for power and earth. Used some gasket goo to seal it all up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1059.jpg


In Situ
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1060.jpg

For now I've just bundled the cables and connectors under the fuse block flap. I'll probably end up re-jigging it a bit so that the connectors line up along the rear or driver's side of the ex box. The lay of the wire as it stands is down the passenger side, which I will need to re-route.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1061.jpg

Having some method of attaching the connectors to a rail using their factory grooves would be ideal... just not sure where I could find such a beast. LR use a slide on style clip which has a press fit 'christmas tree' style fastener, but I want to avoid any more holes in the ex box if at all possible.


I put some of the foam matting down below the fuse block, so that any wires do not abrade on any grit which accumulates, or any steel surfaces. It's not stuck down, so this may or may not be a permanent addition. We'll see what I can manage with the wiring loom as it is.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1062.jpg

I even stuck the fuse block sticker on the lid of the ex box. Bonus points!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1063.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1064.jpg

[Tombie]

Looking good

[Toxic_Avenger]

Today I tackled the wiring and fuse board in the puma.

Initially, I just taped up the wiring loom as per the Mulgo instructions, but I was left with a dog's breakfast of harness connectors, and wiring all over the place. I'm hoping to get this part of the install tidied up as much as possible. The plan was to move the loom from the natural fall of it from the passenger side, to the driver's side of the fuse box, allowing a better wire path.

The way I worked it out, is there would be 2 ways to go...
1) Totally rearrange the modular design of the fuse block to make it fit the application, or,
2) Work with the form factor provided, but change the wiring path to be more compact.

The fuse board in the 2012 puma is a modular clip together design, as seen below:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/668.jpg
so with some patience and tomfoolery, it would be possible to completely unclip the fuse board into its sub sections and make it work, but at this juncture, It's a mammoth task, would require custom brackets and need the fuse / circuit drawing to be revised. Plus I'm red/green colourblind, so bugger that :p

First step was to remove all the electrical tape off the wiring underneath.
Tools of choice were a hook blade on a box cutter, and a nice sharp Chris Reeve folder. A gentleman is only as sharp as his knife...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/669.jpg


The fuse block is setup with a main power feed on the side using a M8 stud and a 13mm nut. From here, we have the fusible links, and bridge wires to the individual circuits / relays. Point is, I needed to separate the wires belonging to connectors with the wires bridging circuits in the board, while trying to optimize the wire path (both for future plug location, and not stretching / straining and wires).

When I removed the block from its original location, I arbitrarily labelled the connectors with dots to tell them apart easier. This plug has 4 wires, one of which I needed to re-route thru the spaghetti maze to allow the connector to move to the opposite side of the loom:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/670.jpg


Once you remove the plastic retainer inside the connector, use a scribe pick or small screwdriver to release the clip which holds the spade terminal in. I use one hand to apply gentle tension on the wire, while picking the clip. You will end up with this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/671.jpg

Thread the wire that you have released from the bundle thru the fuse block wiring to where it needs to be, and reconnect.
I only undo one wire at a time, so that there is no confusion when it comes to reassembly. This would be a bad news scenario if you screwed that up :eek:


After some time, you'll end up with something like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/672.jpg

The connectors have a T-slot style groove on them, which works with the modular style fuse block (to some degree).

For one connector (the 4 wire black connector with the waterproof seal in it), I made up a J shape clip using some 1mm aluminium to hold it in securely to the side of the fuse block.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/673.jpg


I did some tape work underneath to bundle cables belonging to the same connector, and help 'train' their path. I'm lucky that the vehicle is still relatively new, and the wires and connectors are not brittle:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/674.jpg

I'm seeking thoughts on this though... The factory location used a raised platform to allow airflow around the wiring below the fuse block. Now that things are much more compact, is it possible that wiring could get too hot? I'm also taking a gamble on the taping of wires... not sure if there will be any kind of interference between wires in close proximity (inductance effect?).
If you have any thoughts, please post below!

Driver's side view
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/675.jpg


Front view:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/676.jpg


Looking from the rear:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/677.jpg


As far as the ****ty crimp joins in the wiring, I let that sleeping dog lie...
The ones I inspected were solid, and looking past the dodgy electrical tape insulation job, it was a good electrical connection. It could be debated that my soldering would not do it justice ;)


On a completely unrelated note, I installed some rubber edge strip on the front winch wiring as per Tombie's recommendation. That side of it is pretty much sorted now.


Well that's about all for now...

Until next time,
Cheerio.

[Toxic_Avenger]

It has been a quiet few weeks on the landy...the Tamworth Country music festival rolled into town, along with just about every grey nomad between Port Douglas and Ceduna... so getting around town and getting things done was severely compromised. firstworldproblems.jpg

Next steps will be to do with the dual battery install. Lots of planning to do, and considerable capital outlay needed. It's a job I only want to do once, so I'll probably take this one slow.

As for the ex box, I can finally put this one to rest. I've removed the mulgo foam strips that seal it up, and replaced with some rubber seals which are used on boot trim. I've had to wind out the latch on the front a bit to make up for the extra thickness of the seal, but it will definitely help to keep a lot of the dust out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1070.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1071.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1072.jpg



Also a pic of the winch wiring and associated rubber end seal to stop chafing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1073.jpg


That's all for now folks,
Until next time, Cheerio.

[Crocodile Dundee]

And today's efforts was mainly tidying up the last tasks on the ex box, and re-fitting the interior.

Some pics of the 99% finished project:

Cut a hole in the insulation for installation of the thru terminals for power and earth. Used some gasket goo to seal it all up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1059.jpg


In Situ
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1060.jpg

For now I've just bundled the cables and connectors under the fuse block flap. I'll probably end up re-jigging it a bit so that the connectors line up along the rear or driver's side of the ex box. The lay of the wire as it stands is down the passenger side, which I will need to re-route.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1061.jpg

Having some method of attaching the connectors to a rail using their factory grooves would be ideal... just not sure where I could find such a beast. LR use a slide on style clip which has a press fit 'christmas tree' style fastener, but I want to avoid any more holes in the ex box if at all possible.


I put some of the foam matting down below the fuse block, so that any wires do not abrade on any grit which accumulates, or any steel surfaces. It's not stuck down, so this may or may not be a permanent addition. We'll see what I can manage with the wiring loom as it is.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1062.jpg

I even stuck the fuse block sticker on the lid of the ex box. Bonus points!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1063.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1064.jpg
You are SO TALENTED thanks you for pictures l really love the consistency and the perfection of all your wiring
I THINK I AM IN LOVE:p:p:p

[Aguy]

You must be very happy with the end result.

Very neat work, well done! :BigThumb:

[Toxic_Avenger]

You are SO TALENTED thanks you for pictures l really love the consistency and the perfection of all your wiring
I THINK I AM IN LOVE:p:p:p

I won't tell my missus if you don't ;)

I wouldn't call it talent... I'm just a backyard hack mechanic with a drill, some spanners, and an appetite for destruction :p

To date, the build success is down to:
Lots of research
Lots of measuring
Lots of trolling thru parts catalogues and other builds for ideas
...and the members of aulro

I just want to add that I'm standing on the shoulders of giants.
I've gained inspiration from the following members (in no particular order), and summarily taken their ideas, and bastardized these concepts to suit my evil ways, and somehow come out the other end unscathed!
-Chook73 - ex box layout
-Nugg_et - ex box layout
-willow4 -wiring and DBS
-tikka7mm08 - wheel arch winch solenoid relocation

[Toxic_Avenger]

You must be very happy with the end result.

Very neat work, well done! :BigThumb:

Cheers, stay tuned though, because the thread is far from over!

I've been keeping an eye on your build too, I admire your dedication to even the smallest of details- That dynamat job seems to be a mammoth task, but I'm sure you are reaping the dividends with every extra patch you cover. I'll be sure to take on board some of your dust-proofing ideas / innovations in the future.

[Tombie]

Excellent work and great thread... well done!

[carlschmid2002]

Awesome job mate. You have done most of the mods I did to my 90 when I had it but yours is much neater. Love it.

[DiscoMick]

Like the Ex box result - very neat.

[INVSBL]

bumping thread for more updates!!!!!!

[Toxic_Avenger]

I've just been driving it! Approaching 8,000km traveled since I purchased it may last year. I should probably do something about increasing that number. :o


Yesterday we took a nice trip to Manilla NSW - Which isn't far from me. We went to see the Manilla show, which was the usual 'country' show, showcasing local grower's produce, wool and arts and crafts. Watched the working dog trials for a bit, then watched the farmer's challenge, which was good for a laugh (a relay type event for things like getting out the a swag, putting boots on, cracking whips, and drenching sheep etc). The humour was mainly from the MC - but the showgirls trying to crack a whip was also amusing.

Manilla is situated at the confluence of the Namoi River and Manilla river, and is known for its fishing in the rivers, and paragliding on mount Borah- an internationally acclaimed gliding destination. By the river, there is a large reserve where you can find a sneaky spot to drop a line or just relax in the shade. We went for a drive after checking out the show, and snapped some pics on the Namoi river:

there are a few shallow water crossings and a number of sandy tracks along the river banks - nothing extreme
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1259.jpg

Nice view from the river crossing
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1260.jpg


As for the build, progress is slow going.
I'm working on designing the dual battery system, which I've alluded to in this thread. (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/communications-car-audio-electronics/216192-defender-dbs-battery-selection.html)
I need to finish the main power wiring for the winch (the cable run between the solenoid box back to HD switch, fuse and secondary battery).

Charging relay
I'm pretty much sold on the Blue Sea Systems ML-ACR unit, as per Brett/ Bushman's thread and youtube clips. I'm leaning towards model 7622 - which is a magnetically latched automatic charging relay (ACR), which is IP-66 rated for dust and water ingress. It is dual sensing, and will accept charge from a range of inputs (alternator, solar amongst others). It's got the battery combine function to allow joining of batteries, start isolation to protect accessory circuits from voltage spikes and sags when the engine is being started (this is one function that stops the accessory loads from turning off and on again when the engine is started). It's the usual marine grade gear, battle-proven, and built to handle the most unforgiving environment.

Battery selection
Looking to stick with the optima D34 batteries as per Loneranger's build. I understand people have a good amount of success with these, and I'm happy to follow suit. Total Ah rating is less than I'd like, but I want a battery that can handle the loads of winching, while still having a deep cycle pedigree (which I understand is a trade-off due to the construction of the battery cell plates, more than anything else).

I've crunched some sums of a power requirments 'wish list' for camping. Used an online calculator to calculate battery Ah needed, and waved my usual over-engineered 'fudge factor' over the top for good measure:

Designed loads: Camping max 3 days
1x fridge @ 4.2A 12hr/day
work light @ 1A 3hr/day
Inverter 1500W with 500W load drawing 50A 1hr/day
0.5A fridge for 24hrs = 24Ah @ 20hrs
4.5A Fridge for 24hrs = 214Ah @ 20hrs
1A lighting for 3hrs = 8Ah @ 20hrs
50A inverter for 1hr = 132Ah @ 20hrs
360A winch for 0.1hrs = 118Ah @ 20hrs
...in retrospect, I can't recall what the total Ah required was... but there was some method in my madness.

Removable Aux power
I'm toying with the idea of a portable battery for camping- a larger capacity and physical size true deep cell with its own charging relay and anderson style connection - think of it as a 'plug and play' battery for extended stays. Still in the hair-brain planning stages, but well and truly possible if I plan for it now. There would be possibility for AC-DC charging as well... being able to plug into 240V would be good for extended stays, but again, space and where I'd put this item is up in the air (not an IP rated device, so needs to be high and dry).

Battery isolation
Still undecided if I want battery isolation in the battery box or not. I've been tossing up a Remote Battery Switch setup (Blue sea systems ML-RBS model 7700), however for the purposes of extra electronics (and the space they take up), it seems overkill- especially given that their use is to disconnect / lock out the battery systems for repairs remotely- I can imagine the issues with the security system if this is used incorrectly. It is still on the cards for switching the winch though. It would be extra bling points to be able to disconnect batteries at the flick of a switch, and be an additional anti-theft function if managed correctly. Not to mention they look totally bad-ass when wired up correctly (pic below is a stock image of marine wiring):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1261.jpg
If I were into that social media stuff, it would probably be filed under #wiringporn
Edit: there's a sub-reddit for this! Cable Porn; The Art of Tidy Data Centers (http://www.reddit.com/r/cableporn/)




Battery Tray
Still not sure if I'll pull the pin on the devon 4x4 battery tray. I'm looking for something that will put the BCI Group 34 batteries hard up against the battery box wall, with plenty of room to slide them in and out of place, as well as keep room for all the other wiring going on around them. Might get motivated to get some measurements and actually weld something up for a battery tray. Something basic, probably mild steel angle, and definately no scratch start TIG welding this time...


So that's where I'm at. It's a long and thought provoking journey, learning a heap along the way, and hoping to stuck into more wiring soon!

[INVSBL]

looks like you have done heaps of research on the DBS, but yeah need to narrow it down to exactly what need more then want, to keep the complications to a minimum.

judging from your previous work, will be a neat install that will function very well!

[DiscoMick]

Toxic Avenger wrote:


Removable Aux power
I'm toying with the idea of a portable battery for camping- a larger capacity and physical size true deep cell with its own charging relay and anderson style connection - think of it as a 'plug and play' battery for extended stays. Still in the hair-brain planning stages, but well and truly possible if I plan for it now. There would be possibility for AC-DC charging as well... being able to plug into 240V would be good for extended stays, but again, space and where I'd put this item is up in the air (not an IP rated device, so needs to be high and dry).


I just use an Ark box for this - it can be plugged into the vehicle and also into 240 volts. A simple solution.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I just use an Ark box for this - it can be plugged into the vehicle and also into 240 volts. A simple solution.

Cheers Mick, I didn't even know something like this was available! What a top bit of gear.

[Disco Muppet]

Love it.
Spent 7 years in Tamworth so quite familiar with Manilla.
Might have to swing by and say G'day next time I visit :cool:

[Toxic_Avenger]

Love it.
Spent 7 years in Tamworth so quite familiar with Manilla.
Might have to swing by and say G'day next time I visit :cool:

Would be great to catch up if you are ever in the neighborhood.

[Toxic_Avenger]

While in New Zealand, I saw a great ad on telly for drink driving.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtWirGxV7Q8

Today's adventure was similar- I've been internalizing an incredibly complex situation in my head. Cue Puzzle Time!


I'm hoping to fit 2x group 34 size batteries in the battery box, along with a class T fuse holder for the winch, a Remote Battery Switch, and an Automatic Charging Relay. It's going to be a tight fit, so I spent some time with the tape measure and a notepad, and got to work. I'm no Picasso, but it made sense to me at the time.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/510.jpg

Anyone that's looked at the defender battery box knows it's a weird shape. the base is flat (relative to the chassis). The front face which adjoins the footwell is raked back, and the top section, which the seats affix to, falls aft (or was that daft?...).
Inside, the body panels are no better. The panel which adjoins the transmission tunnel has a bulging section which pinches in towards the rear of the vehicle. The front of the cavity has a spot welded box section for strengthening. the base is on LSD- flat closest to the trans tunnel, a depressed section where the factory behemoth of a battery lives, and a angled surface closest to the door which takes up a fair bit of space (but presumably is there to allow it to clear the chassis).
Needless to say, I've decided to forego designing something myself to fit batteries into such hostile terrain.

Once I got back to the comfort of the study, I drew a scaled Plan view image of the battery box, to see how I could Tetris everything together. Tetris is not a verb, but it is a fitting one in this instance. Each 5mm square on paper is 25mm in the battery box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/511.jpg


The battery of choice is a BCI Group 34 unit - namely a optima D34M - a dual purpose AGM battery with 750 CCA, and 55Ah. Terminals in this setup are both SAE posts, and 5/16" threaded stainless studs.
This leads to the next item in the puzzle- scaled post-it note batteries.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/512.jpg
Interestingly, 2 optimas side by side are approx the same length as the stock battery (stock battery tray is denoted by the dotted line in the plan).

Option 1 for the ACR / RBS units is thus:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/513.jpg

Which was soon re-jigged to this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/514.jpg

I'm hoping to get the RBS output closer to the fuse holder which will be mounted on the front wall of the box. I'm hoping to wing it a bit with this... not sure if I'll mount it horizontally as shown, or vertically.

With this arrangement, there should be enough room to slide the front-most battery towards the trans tunnel to get it out of the box without hitting anything, while still allowing grommets to be installed for cabling thru to the trans tunnel. Then the rear-most battery can be slid across should it need removal.

Finally,
I've come to the conclusion that the standard battery post clamps on the pumas are a load of crap, probably designed by the Earl of Nonsense at Solihull.
They use a nut which has an inverted cone to clamp down on a male cone which pinches on the terminal. Even swinging off it with a good size spanner, it's still loose. I think I'll have them changed before too long. Might also look at re-doing that factory mega fuse holder which will probably not work with the new batteries.

Well that's about all for now...

Until next time,
Cheerio.

[loneranger]

I'm hoping to fit 2x group 34 size batteries in the battery box, along with a class T fuse holder for the winch, a Remote Battery Switch, and an Automatic Charging Relay. It's going to be a tight fit, so I spent some time with the tape measure and a notepad, and got to work. I'm no Picasso, but it made sense to me at the time.

Anyone that's looked at the defender battery box knows it's a weird shape. the base is flat (relative to the chassis). The front face which adjoins the footwell is raked back, and the top section, which the seats affix to, falls aft (or was that daft?...).
Inside, the body panels are no better. The panel which adjoins the transmission tunnel has a bulging section which pinches in towards the rear of the vehicle. The front of the cavity has a spot welded box section for strengthening. the base is on LSD- flat closest to the trans tunnel, a depressed section where the factory behemoth of a battery lives, and a angled surface closest to the door which takes up a fair bit of space (but presumably is there to allow it to clear the chassis).
Needless to say, I've decided to forego designing something myself to fit batteries into such hostile terrain.

Once I got back to the comfort of the study, I drew a scaled Plan view image of the battery box, to see how I could Tetris everything together. Tetris is not a verb, but it is a fitting one in this instance. Each 5mm square on paper is 25mm in the battery box.

The battery of choice is a BCI Group 34 unit - namely a optima D34M - a dual purpose AGM battery with 750 CCA, and 55Ah. Terminals in this setup are both SAE posts, and 5/16" threaded stainless studs.
This leads to the next item in the puzzle- scaled post-it note batteries.

Interestingly, 2 optimas side by side are approx the same length as the stock battery (stock battery tray is denoted by the dotted line in the plan).

Option 1 for the ACR / RBS units is thus:

I'm hoping to get the RBS output closer to the fuse holder which will be mounted on the front wall of the box. I'm hoping to wing it a bit with this... not sure if I'll mount it horizontally as shown, or vertically.

With this arrangement, there should be enough room to slide the front-most battery towards the trans tunnel to get it out of the box without hitting anything, while still allowing grommets to be installed for cabling thru to the trans tunnel. Then the rear-most battery can be slid across should it need removal.

Finally,
I've come to the conclusion that the standard battery post clamps on the pumas are a load of crap, probably designed by the Earl of Nonsense at Solihull.
They use a nut which has an inverted cone to clamp down on a male cone which pinches on the terminal. Even swinging off it with a good size spanner, it's still loose. I think I'll have them changed before too long. Might also look at re-doing that factory mega fuse holder which will probably not work with the new batteries.

Well that's about all for now...

Until next time,
Cheerio.

I came to the same conclusion regarding the battery terminals. After taking them off once I couldn't get them back on with a tight fit. So they came off.

The factory megafuse doesn't fit on the yellow tops so I put a piece of thin wood along the front of the battery box and screwed it onto that. I source the megafuse holder from Jaycar as they were the only ones that sold one that fitted the Ford factory megafuse. The ANL fuse holders require a different fuse and we couldn't find anyone that could supply a 500amp fuse.

By putting the car battery at the back and the auxiliary at the front it was easier to get both terminals on where i positioned the megafuse.

[DiscoMick]

You're doing better than me - maybe I'm visually challenged. I looked at the battery box and decided not to even try to put a second battery in there. I did get the Traxide unit and some other stuff in.
Best I'm hoping to do is to get a fuse block in there to tidy it all up.
My second battery is going in the back, hopefully in the drawers.

[Toxic_Avenger]

A great resource for me was the humble Google image search for 'defender dual battery'.
There is a large number of options out there from the good old block of wood and a ratchet strap thru to more exotic solutions with dynamat and other tomfoolery.
It did also point out the shortcomings of some systems that I saw. Namely how space is utilized and different batteries are restrained. The flat dog kit actually has a lot of space between batteries which could have mixed results depending on your application.

My main concern is space for accessories and keeping the terminals out of harms way- ie away from the battery box lid.

[carlschmid2002]

I lined the batter box lid with rubber and used this to help hold them in place. The fit was more good luck than planning. Very snug. I used the National Luna Kit from Daniel at expedition centre. I got the solenoid inside and placed the battery monitor in drivers footwell on the centre side. It was easy to see when opening the door. I don't have picks as I have sold my Defender unfortunately

[Toxic_Avenger]

The past week I've had some annual leave up my sleeve, so decided to take a 4 day trip to the (almost) outback region of NSW.
We (Erin and I) had a roughly planned an itinerary - goal was to visit the hot artesian baths that are spotted around the north west of NSW - the rest we left to chance. We knew that Lightning ridge was on the cards, and planned to spend the best part of a day there seeing the sights - particularly the opal field region of Grawin / Glengarry, and their famous watering holes.

We packed the 90 with some basic non perishable supplies, 20L of Tamworth town water, and swags / clothing. The Odometer was zeroed, and the tank was filled.
Like Tetris:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/69.jpg

Day 1 - Tamworth to Pilliga (https://goo.gl/maps/DDzKY)
We departed early Sunday morning from Tamworth, grabbing a coffee for the road. We made a B-line to Gunnedah NSW before heading to Boggabri for a squiz at 'Gins Leap'. Story has it that 2 young aboriginals from different (warring) tribes ran away, and were tracked by their tribe. They leaped from the tall cliffs to their deaths to prevent capture and punishment. Gins Leap was also the site of a hotel back in the 1800's where the graves of the family now stand.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/70.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/71.jpg

From there, we headed to Narrabri for some fuel and supplies which we missed at home. We departed for Wee Waa, heading west to the town of Pilliga. Factoid: Wee Waa, once hosted a Daft Punk concert/ album launch!
Once in Pilliga, we stopped by the local pub for a counter lunch and a few games of Pool approx 1300hrs. We then set up camp for the night at the Pilliga Bore Baths, for a nominal fee of $5 for the night. We slipped into the hot baths, where the water was approx 38 celsuis. The baths are frequented by many people, many seek therapeutic befefits of the baths due to the minerals, however I was there to relax and keep warm!

Camp for the night:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/72.jpg

Day 2 - Pilliga to Lightning Ridge (https://goo.gl/maps/S8nrb)
Got an early start at Pilliga, mainly due to being a bit cold the night before- there was plenty of wind and temps dropped to about 5 celsius. I woke up and made the obligatory instant coffee and toast while watching the sun rise. I watched the stars fade, and the purples, oranges and reds appear in the sky.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/73.jpg

It was in this moment of clarity that I found irrefutable evidence to support a theory I had pondered for many years (much to the dislike of Erin)...
The Sun really does shine out of my arse!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/74.jpg


After packing up camp, we headed out of town, grabbing another coffee from the local cafe and paying our camping fee (they were closed on sunday). BIG MISTAKE. The SWB landy lived up to its reputation on the bumpy (yet sealed) roads, with more coffee ending up on the cubby box than in our mouths.
We were now heading north out of Pilliga, heading to the 2nd bore bath at Burren Junction. Once more, it was chockers with caravanners and without a doubt, Erin and I were the youngest there by 30 years or more! We passed on a swim in this bore bath, as it was still early, and we had Km's to gain as we closed in on 'da Ridge'.

We passed thru Cryon, a small town on the Kamilaroi Highway which has a railway line and Silo, and a general store, which appears to have been closed since the early 90's. This marked a milestone in the trip- the 90's first confirmed kill. At 110km/h, an unsuspecting bird zigged when it should have zagged, and wedged itself firmly in the decreasing space between the roof of the landy, and the roof rack. It was sort of like a very blunt cheese grater. Nevertheless, I persevered and managed to get its little corpse off my vehicle and onto the side of the road.
Shortly after, we spotted our first Emus. A mob of 6 in a drought stricken cotton field south of Walgett.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/75.jpg

We also found a good photo op in the vast expanse of this farming region. The Walgett region is doing it tough with a lack of rain, forcing farms (predominantly cotton IIRC) to cease planting for the year. I've been told in the past, that a large cotton farm can plant $1M of seed for a season, so the prospect of no rain or secured irrigation to sustain their crops could be a costly one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/76.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/77.jpg

About 11am we reached Walgett, where we picked up more diesel replacing the 34.15L we had used since Narrabri.
We visited the tourist info centre and bought a chick-pea cook book.

We persevered northward, taking the turnoff at Walgett towards Cumborah.
From Cumborah, we turned west into the Grawin / Glengarry opal fields to visit the local points of interest.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/78.jpg


The Grawin 'Club in the scrub'
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/79.jpg
Entry to the club is via the golf course...
The Greens are... umm... NOT.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/80.jpg

This was our first stop. We stopped for a counter lunch and a beer with the local miners. There is plenty of characters in this neck of the woods, one was quite excited to show me the Grawin 'UFO'. Turns out it was just a weather balloon :p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/81.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/82.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

We got a few pics, then headed onto the next stop- the iconic Glengarry hilton!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/58.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/59.jpg

The Glengarry hilton is another pub in the opal fields, claiming to be open 6am to 6pm, 8 days a week. After a poke around, and a stubby of mother's milk (AKA XXXX Gold), we headed on.


The last stop in the opal fields was the Sheepyards hotel. Just like the other 2 pubs, it has the same Lightning Ridge charm. Old machinery everywhere, and cobbled together signs made from old car doors and scraps of corrugated iron.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/60.jpg
"Cars with Brakes GIVE WAY" :D Half the cars on the road were unregistered. Not sure how the opal fields are classified- public or private road. might be a question for the experts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/61.jpg
Time to phone a friend.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/62.jpg
A tree dressed with Bras


We headed to the Ridge via the Cumborah - Lightning Ridge road. On the way we paid a visit to Stan the Emu, an 18m tall sculpture made from scrap steel and old VW Beetles.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/63.jpg


We ambled into Lightning Ridge proper around 4pm, checking into the Opal caravan park for the night to sue the camp kitchen and hot showers.
Once camp was setup, we headed across the road to the Lightning Ridge Artesiuan baths for a soak. At 40 Celsius, its one of the warmest baths around. We soaked for about an hour, watching the sun go down and the stars emerge. This probably has to be the best baths we visited during the trip. It has the best atmosphere, with people from all backgrounds coming for a swim. Lightnihng ridge is very diverse culturally, as peoiple from around the world come to the region to find their riches in the elusive black opal that is in the clay and sandstone under the town.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/64.jpg
Camp for the night

Day 3 - Lightning Ridge to Moree (https://goo.gl/maps/Y0UYp)
We had a bit of a sleep in Tuesday Morning, having a hearty breakfast before heading for a look around town.
We purchased some prints from the John Murray Art Gallery whose art is iconic both in depicting the region, and as a satirical view of the outback.
This was one of my favourite:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/65.jpg

We did the Blue car door tour just outside of town, and visited the walk in mine. We fossicked thru the dump pile at the mine, but didn't find anything worth keeping.

About 1530hrs we heads west out of town, making a B-line to Collarenebri, and on to Moree. The back road is the most direct route, preventing the need to double back thru Walgett via the black-top. The road was fairly well maintained, hard packed clay with minimal rubble. It was easy to maintain a constant 100km/h on the road, even thru the heavily banked corners.
We saw a number of Emus, Kangaroos, Eagles, Pigs... but No camels. Perhaps next time.

Stopped at a crossroads for this pic:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/66.jpg

We camped up in Moree at the Gwydir Carapark which had their own artesian bore baths -4 of them! there was a 34, 35, 37 degree, and 39 degree pool.
Nice place to stay, but situated right next to an airport and the Newell highway which had lots of aircraft noise and trucks riding their Jake brake.

Day 4 - Moree to Tamworth (https://goo.gl/maps/P2Fsi)
Day 4 saw the last day of the adventure, heading thru the back roads between Moree and Tamworth.
We passed thru Terry Hie Hie, and upper Horton, followed by Barraba, Manilla and finally Tamworth where the journey ends.
Mainly an uneventful drive, however we did stop in to see the glacial site on the Killarney Gap road.
This was once a site where a glacier was found. Many of the rocks are either cracked by the force of the ice passing over it, while others are polished from the movement of ice over the ages.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/67.jpg


Trip stats:
I crunched the sums for fuel price, economy and distances involved. Admittedly I was filling up more regularly than I normally would, however with the remote areas, I was more cautious as I was not carrying additional fuel. Remember the 90 has a tiny 60L tank, or approx 500km range!
Most driving could be considered 'highway' at speeds of 100 - 110km/h on tar or hard packed dirt.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/68.jpg

TL;DR
It was a great trip, lots to see, and a great 'entry level' trip to experience outback touring. It was a comfortable 4 day trip from Tamworth.

[Disco Muppet]

Pfft.
Mate and I did Orange - Hebel (in QLD) in one hit, had lunch and turned around and went home :p :cool:
Have school friends from Walgett, very dry out there at the moment. Really makes you aware of the vast sizes when you drive for 50km and each of the property signs are owned by the same people.

Nice pics, looks like an enjoyable trundle. :)

[Toxic_Avenger]

Got this panoramic shot also.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/17.jpg

[Blade74]

Nice one Toxic Avenger.
Where you happy with how the deefer went?

[Toxic_Avenger]

Very happy with the performance and capabilities, but that being said it was mainly highway driving.
Fuel usage was highest on those legs of the journey where the speed limit was 110km/h, or high speed dirt road driving - lots of slowing down for animals, bends and cattle grids, often from 100km/h in 5th / 6th gear down to 80 or so.

If I were to do these trips more often, or for extended stays, I'd remove the rear seats for more storage space.

It was evident that the additional weight in the vehicle made it ride much nicer on the rougher roads. When it's only me, the 90 is a bit skatey on loose rocky roads, even with the CDL engaged. This is much less pronounced with a higher payload in the vehicle.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Greetings one and all, and welcome to the next installment!

It has been an embarrassingly long time between updates, nevertheless, the show has gone on between posts. The most recent updates have involved more gathering of parts for the dual battery setup, and the install of the wing top protectors.

Wing top install
I like my landy. and I like how shiny it is (even though most of the time it's filthy dirty). So it was with much apprehension that I commenced drilling into the panels for the install of some mammouth wing top protectors in a nice black finish.
I wanted what could be considered a semi-permanent install, but on the other hand, I want something that was going to preserve the finish underneath, and not be likely to corrode itself into place over time. The chosen path involved the aluminium checker plate, a set of the wing top gaskets, and aluminium riv-nuts to secure it to the vehicle. I used a product called duralac, which is an anti-corrosion jointing compound to prevent any undue corrosion between the material used (stainless steel does not play nice with aluminium in certain environments). My main concern here was that the gasket kit would absorb crud over time and keep the panel wet and accelerate corrosion. Enough talk here's some pics.

Before
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1049.jpg

Test fit
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1050.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1051.jpg

Quick wash / wax of the panels before fitting - I only did the wing tops... because defender.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1052.jpg

Pretty
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1053.jpg

Setting out
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1054.jpg
I find this is the easiest way for me to lay out these things. Plenty of tape allows a surface to draw on, measure off, or even transfer a design / layout to a new work piece. Even though I did each side independently, I'd have no concerns just flipping the template to the other side of the vehicle if I was in a rush.

Measuring panel gaps before marking the holes
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1055.jpg

No turning back...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1056.jpg

Drilling
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1057.jpg
Started with a 2.5mm bit, following the centre pop parks. Moved up thru the sizes gradually to 4.5mm, then onto the step drill to 9mm for the riv-nuts.

Deburring the hole
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1058.jpg

Touch-up paint for the raw edges
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1059.jpg

Riv-nut ready to install.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1060.jpg
Duralac coated for good measure. Aluminium can go crusty over time, so the high chromium content of this coating should keep that at bay.

5x Riv-Nuts installed
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1061.jpg

The finished insert
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1062.jpg
If I needed to re do this at any stage, I'd probably look at going the low profile riv nuts (less shoulder height). The riv nuts I had tended to compress off centre (threaded hole was not centred on drilled hole), probably because they were of dubious quality. Pro tip for young players!
Pro tip #2: the torque needed to spin a riv-nut in its hole is approx 13nm. ie bugger all. So don't chooch on it too hard or else you might strip it.

...And finished
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1063.jpg
I'll remove these once more to trim up the gasket a little more. It seemed to compress out from under the plate once torqued down.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1064.jpg



###############################

In other news, I still have an international shipment of parts MIA after being sent from the USA to the UK in error. The worst part is it has a good amount of Blue Sea Systems gear in it which was destined for my DBS. This is the ML-ACR and ML-RBS which I discussed in a previous post.

The Devon 4x4 dual battery tray for the group 34 batteries has arrived, but everything else is on hold until I can wire everything else in at once. I'll probably put some pics up in a different thread, as I had quite a bit of difficulty in searching pics of this tray in situ, and out of the vehicle before I purchased it. Initial impressions are an awesome level of build quality, quality welding, and coating across the whole product, which is a really irregular shape. I'm glad I didn't take on welding my own up, and it would have turned out a disaster!


That's all folks!

[Is Vic There]

Great pictures, looks like you had a ball

[missleoniemay]

pics on drop box work. pelican is a great idea

[Toxic_Avenger]

Well Folks, I've been doing some more tinkering.

Through either procrastination, or sheer laziness, I still havent wired up the last few meters of winch power cable. I'm hoping we have a prize for the most protracted 'simple' project? If we do, I'm damn sure I'll win it outright.

I had a parcel from the US go AWOL, and it took near on 90 days from payment to delivery. That's excuse 1. On top of that, Its my busiest time of the year at work and... you get the idea. Lazy Mitch is lazy. If this project had a Gantt chart, i'd have one of those monumental **** ups where all the critical path items go haywire and the project ends up over time, over budget and all fouled up. Pretty much like most government projects I've watched over the years :p


The dual battery tray has arrived, it's a Devon 4x4 unit ex UK.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/208.jpg

It came as a bit of a shocker to me how involved this seemingly simple battery tray is...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/209.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/210.jpg
many different angles, locating holes etc. I was planning at one stage to make one up but this probably would have been a tall order to get anywhere near the same level of quality for the time / money invested.


This battery tray will hold 2 Optima batteries (yet to be purchased, most likely optima D34M marine 'hybrid' cranking / deep cycle batteries) which will direct power to...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/211.jpg
The Blue sea systems automatic charging relay, and the remote battery switch :D

Rock solid, BIG MOFO units... Running on a single 70mm2 cable, the RBS can handle a continuous current of 225A... and up to 2000A for a 10 second cranking cycle. Plus it's IP66 rated- essentially able to be exposed to direct spray by a high pressure water jet for 3 minutes without adverse effect. Can switch under load as well, however this is not likely to be a factor in my design.

The ACR is the brains of the operation, directing battery charge (bi-directional) to each battery as required. The benefit of this over other items on the market is having a much higher current handling capacity when joining batteries for winching, or emergency jump starts. This model is good for the same 225A continuous on the cable I'm running, as well as having the headroom for up to 2000A for 10 seconds. Under a 'strenuous' 5min winching operation with my winch, I'd have no issues with burning out this unit. It's more likely than not that I'll blow the fuses I have in my setup before it comes to the melty and burny stage :p
Pretty much everything I've got lined up would support a much larger winch if the batteries are specced to handle it.


I did a bit of a bench test with the RBS (remote battery switch) last night. Where this fits into the equation is essentially just a switch to turn the winch power on or off at the press of a button. I'm not too keen on having the winch cables permanently live, so this is one of the ways to allow this to be switched. I know it seems overkill at first look, but It should prove useful for any other accessories if I ever need a switchable high current circuit (think Anderson style fittings etc- jump starting, additional winches, bow thrusters etc). Forwards compatibility is key here, and that is never a bad thing to have up your sleeve.

The setup:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/212.jpg
I scrounged an AC to 12VDC (1.5A output) wall wart from the drawer of eternal damnation (AKA junk drawer) in the home office. From there I proceeded to jerry-rig a bit of wiring to do some testing of the remote battery switch.
The setup was just a dry run before install proper, and is a good opportunity to test its current draw at rest, and how it works on the bench, how the switch reacts to the high current output side of the switch etc.

Main findings were that the relay does not pull in unless connected to a battery on either terminal A OR B of the unit... i.e. power to activate the coil comes from the battery proper, not the signal wires via the switch.
It also draws its resting current (I measured 5mA) from the battery, not via the switch, and the unit holds it's state when power is disconnected. Remember I'm no professional, so that's about the limit of my observations in this regard. Feel free to chime in if you have further info to add!

There was some discussion here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/217051-oe-momentary-spdt-switch-puma.html) about switchgear for the puma, but my underlying question was regarding the internal operation of the RBS. I was torn between a product which had a 0mA current draw at rest, and one which draws a small current continuously, but has the flexibility of using multiple switch types. I opted for model number 7713 in the end, There was some reading that I read which suggested that a Bi-stable latching relay as is in some of these switches, can be disturbed through excessive vibration. Probably not ideal in a 4wd application. The other concern is keeping factory looking switchgear on the dash, and non standard switches like the honkin' red Blue Sea contura switches on the Ex Box case.

I've sourced all the cable, crimp lugs and other accoutrements for the install, just need to get her done in the coming weeks (or months :p ). Rest assured I'll take plenty of pics along the way to document the most bomb-proof dual battery / winch setup (in a 90) this place has ever seen :cool:

In the words of AvE... Keep your stick on the ice.

[Tombie]

I watch your work and the quality of it is without peer.. Exceptional...

I do wonder if you aren't making it much more complex than it needs to be though!

However, I can see it may be an exercise in "what can I do"...

Either way - keep up the quality work!!

[Toxic_Avenger]

I watch your work and the quality of it is without peer.. Exceptional...

I do wonder if you aren't making it much more complex than it needs to be though!

However, I can see it may be an exercise in "what can I do"...

Either way - keep up the quality work!!

Cheers Tombie!

I've been thinking a lot of what my goal is with this vehicle. It's a tricky philosophy to ponder when we are dealing with a vehicle which on face value is rather primal. On one hand I'd love to just go gung-ho with tek screws, zip ties and get it all fitted out over a weekend... which wouldn't look out of place amongst all the rivets and spot welds, but on the other hand, I want to have something that has been designed with thought, educated decisions, and foresight.

It's easy to just throw money at a car and buy the first thing everyone recommends (people do this every day of the week at big box 4x4 stores- and admittedly get some very nice vehicles out the other end), but playing devils advocate and looking at the whole design and building to a standard or a performance goal is usually way more insightful- both in the end outcome, and from a personal learning experience too. I'm guaranteed to make mistakes (and will probably post my failures here too!), but it's all part of the 'adventure'- hence the title of the thread. It's not a build thread, not a tech thread, not always defender specific, but an eclectic orgy of ideas that come together in a weird yet beautiful way :p

I really enjoy drawing inspiration and ideas from other industries and using high quality solutions in 'off license' ways to meet a desired outcome. For example, the winch cables are planned to be secured with Stauff clamps - normally used in piped industrial gas installations to secure poly or stainless pipes. They wouldn't be out of place on a multi billion dollar air separation unit, or as a fixture for a retciulated oxy/DA system at a TAFE or engineering workshop.

The balance between complex solutions and the problem at hand is a fine line to walk. If you know the desired outcome, you can find many ways to get there. Some paths are better than others, some are simpler, more complicated, or more reliable. I guess 'engineered reliability' is what I'm going for. I'm not an engineer (I don't have a train, or that piece of paper), but willing to give my ideas and goals a red hot go and learn something new along the way.

[Tombie]

Keep it up! Its a pleasure to watch the detail you are putting into the build..

Really like the Stauff clamps - were used in what I did for a long time... Even have some holding some gear in my workshop...

I'm enjoying the 'out of the box' methodology you are applying - shows great planning and execution and attention to detail...

Just one question...

Where do you find the time? :cool: I still have a task list about 40 lines long!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Where do you find the time? :cool: I still have a task list about 40 lines long!

I have a very patient partner...
...and my to do list is growing longer every day :p

[Toxic_Avenger]

Probably not the most interesting topic to pen today, but what the heck. I find it interesting, and you mob will just have to deal with it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/68.jpg

All the electrical projects I've done to date have sort of had a goal of making things fairly contained, reliable and safe. A premium was put into things like protection from water ingress, dust and vibration to ensure that the finished product won't be at the mercy of the elements. Likewise I've resisted hacking holes and brackets into the vehicle wherever possible, utilizing the space and features of the vehicle wherever I can. I guess all my years working on jap imports with cramped, tiny engine bays and no space to work with came as a shock to the system, and I've been subconsciously trying to build a cramped little car ever since :p

I have been reading and pondering this article (http://www.w8ji.com/battery_wiring.htm) concerning the wiring of automotive electric systems and accessories. I'm finding it really interesting. I'd recommend anyone who is that way inclined to have a browse over it and pick the eyeballs out of it... a lot of it is on the theoretical side of things, but the guy appears* to know what he's talking about.

Of particular interest is the debate between wiring high current loads direct to the battery or direct to the chassis earth point. There are some interesting points relating to the cross sectional area of the chassis, body panels relative to the negative cable coming off the accessory (ie many times larger CSA). There are also considerations as to the likelihood of the load failing and creating voltage spokes which can damage other vehicle systems, or creating electrical noise for other engine systems, sensors etc. Wiring considerations for voltage drop or resistance to heat is another interesting topic covered.

The topic of earthing a winch (amongst other accessories) seems to be one of those can of worms debates. I'm hoping that wiring the winch direct to the accessory battery positive and negative is the right way. Warn (and other winch manufacturers) recommends this, but probably making the assumption that no other upgrades will occur to make a chassis earth viable. I could have saved quite a bit of money on cable if I'd only upgraded the 30cm long battery negative to chassis cable rather than the whole 9 yards :confused:

I guess once any potential failures are put aside, having a dedicated circuit for a high current load is not a bad thing. Open to thoughts about this.



* as much as an anonymous author on the internet can be trusted, I guess...

[Toxic_Avenger]

I put the feelers out on this thread (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/224628-defender-devon-4x4-battery-tray-optima-blue-top-terminal-spacing.html#post2414345) regarding terminal spacing on the Devon 4x4 battery tray when using the optima D34M batteries.
I sourced these thru Michael (user rrturboD on AULRO) (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/rrturbod.html). Ordered Monday, arrived Wednesday, stellar turnaround time for a regional area like Tamworth, and great service to boot- thanks mate!

I've done a preliminary install to get the measurements to put any future questions about the suitability of these batteries in the knowledge bank for future users who might be interested.


Optima D34M batteries in Devon 4x4 tray (for 2007+ defenders)
The D34M (BCI group 34) Batteries are HALF the length of a stock defender puma battery. Two BCI group 34 batteries fit side by side in the tray.
The D34M batteries are Left hand positive, and this will allow the + terminals to be fit in the centremost section of the battery box, with the negative terminals under the seat box panel closest the door, and under the passenger (LHS) seat rail.

The batteries fit with 14mm clearance along the side of the battery tray (when installed in the vehicle, pictured), and have approx 3mm clearance front to back. I will probably use a piece of wood to prevent undue movement once it's all setup for service (and not on my living room floor AKA ghetto workshop) :p

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98452&d=1441180764


The left/right side clearance (14mm) allows the batteries to be spaced towards one terminal or the other, which is the main orientation that will effect the spacing of the battery tie down clamp and any accessories you wish to wire to the 5/16" post terminals on the battery. The pics show how I've aligned the battery clamp (and batteries within the tray, closest to the negative terminals on the battery.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98453&d=1441180764

In this orientation, the positive crimp lug cannot make contact with the hold down clamp, however the earth will. Being coated copper lugs, the weight of the cable will bend these over time. Insulation of the battery hold down clamp would be ideal, as others have suggested.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98457&d=1441181551

If the lugs are orientated parallel to the clamp, you can bank on about 10mm clearance from the clamp to the outside of the lug. This increases to 16mm if you space it towards the negative as I have.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98456&d=1441180764

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98454&d=1441180764

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98455&stc=1&d=1441180764


I've got a mega fuse holder on it's way, so once that's all done and dusted, the install proper can begin, time permitting.
Interestingly, the fuse holders I've been looking at are all rated to a max 300A, and the factory Mega fuse is 500A (it's got a nifty Ford logo on it!). Hoping that the starter motor (or anything else in the vehicle's facrtory electronics for that matter) will not draw more than that for long enough to blow the fuse...
It's also interesting as there could very well be some additional capacity in the fuse (and I'd hope, wiring) to support the dealer fit winch which is connected direct to the starter motor. Again, this is another point of contention for winch installations too.

[jackdef90]

I kept my standard battery ( new design piranha tray) and used a yellow top optima, the only fitting issue was the height, had to play with spacers on the terminals of the aux battery to make sure it fit under the sliding metal cover when the cables were connected, lined it with rubber to be safe.
Something to check if you haven't allready.
The battery box top isn't flat on top so it's lower at the end towards the front of vehicle than other end if that makes sense.

[loneranger]

I've got a mega fuse holder on it's way, so once that's all done and dusted, the install proper can begin, time permitting.
Interestingly, the fuse holders I've been looking at are all rated to a max 300A, and the factory Mega fuse is 500A (it's got a nifty Ford logo on it!). Hoping that the starter motor (or anything else in the vehicle's facrtory electronics for that matter) will not draw more than that for long enough to blow the fuse...
It's also interesting as there could very well be some additional capacity in the fuse (and I'd hope, wiring) to support the dealer fit winch which is connected direct to the starter motor. Again, this is another point of contention for winch installations too.

You can get a 500Amp megafuse holder to fit the original fuse from Jaycar. It was the only one we could find when we were doing ours.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Part 1
I'm trying this new AULRO picture attachment doo-dad, as chances are all the stuff here will fall off the internet one day when the Imgur images are no longer hosted. Going to upload in a few parts so that there are posts with a number of images each.



I managed to score some time on the Landy today, kickin' ass and takin' names. I make this look easy :p

Spent Saturday doing some detailing on the other car. Came up alright for a 24 year old datsun ;) Doing a wedding with it next weekend, so thought it was a good opportunity to give my fairlady its yearly polish
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98771&stc=1&d=1441525036

Back to the battery setup, which is probably why most of you are putting up with this thread...

Ordered one of these last week, which should land on my office desk early this week:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/751.jpg
It's the Blue Sea Systems 7721 Mega fuse holder. Nice bit of gear, ignition protected, so should have no issues with flammable battery gases venting if it ever comes to that :eek: Plus, being a mega fuse holder, the existing fuse will slip right in, and do all the things a good fuse should- sit there and look pretty, not blow, etc.

This purchase will allow me to get rid of the abortion of a fuse holder than Land Rover decided to attach to this vehicle:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98772&stc=1&d=1441525386
It will be a good day when I can get rid of that. Seriously, who ever thought that the stock positive terminal / fuse holder with its cone style clamp arrangement was a good idea? It seemed that no matter how hard I wrenched on that nut, it was still loose on the battery terminal. RIP.

This is what I had to deal with to begin with. Note the complete mind**** of wires which is an accumulation of driving lights, LED's, UHF, air compressor (I'm guilty of that, it was a temporary install :p) plus all the stock wiring.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98773&d=1441526028

After locking then unlocking the car, and quickly disconnecting the vehicle's battery (to prevent any immobilizer issues) I was able to begin the tear down of the setup.
First step was to remove the plastic battery box cover under the vehicle (4x 10mm bolts), and then undo the fasteners holding the stock battery tray into the vehicle. I also needed to remove the wheel chock, bottle jack, and tool roll as well. With this out of the way (and a good clean up to-boot) this is what's left of the box:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98774&stc=1&d=1441526170
And the view back towards the PS door:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98775&stc=1&d=1441526170

I took the time to drill out the rivets holding in the bottle jack bracket - this will go into the 'stuff I've removed from the defender' box I have. I also removed the metal hooks which sit on the front side of the battery box... I'm not actually sure what they are for, but this too was prime real estate for the parts I have planned to install...

[Toxic_Avenger]

Part 2- the tray and re-routing wires

The test fit of the battery tray went that well, that I bolted it right in! The devon 4x4 tray is a stout bit of gear, fits tight in all the right places, and it leaves plenty of room around and UNDER the tray to route wiring and battery control gear if needed.

Here is after the cables have been re-routed, but before the batteries are in:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98776&d=1441527277

My idea was to have all the batteries control and winch switching gear within the battery box. Looking at it all mocked up, there is a heap of room to make this happen.
Things I plan to stack in here are:

Automamtic charging relay
Remote Battery Switch
Mega fuse holder
Type T fuse holder
Cabling as required
Any other junk I can fit in there (jack, tools etc)


Moving cables around
There are 3 main cables coming into/out of the box from factory-

The main positive cable that goes to the starter (this is fused at 500A),
the Main positive feed to the main fuse box (which is normally under the driver's seat, but I've got mine in the ex box),
and the main negative cable, which exits the battery box, and grounds to the passenger side chassis rail, and then to the gearbox.

The engine would be earthed to the chassis, as well as the body panels also (I've noticed there is an earth strap between the firewall and chassis near the driver's side front wheel).


I have chosen to move the location of 2 of these cables (items 2 and 3), to make the finished wiring a bit neater and more accessible with the new battery position.
2) Negative (earth) cable:
This was pulled back thru the grommet it came thru on the rear inboard hole in the battery box, and was threaded back into a hole further towards the front of the vehicle. This required the chassis mounting point to be rotated clockwise 90 degrees - which also allows much more reach on this cable. If all goes to plan, I will not need to remake this to put a 'proper' battery clamp on it (see previous post).
Pic below shows it's final route (pic is from under car, looking up - the silver component is part of the gearbox mount).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98778&d=1441527277


3) Positive feed to main fuse box
The main fuse panel under the driver's seat has a lug end which screws directly into the board. The factory path is out of the driver's seat box, up and over the gearbox, and into the passenger seat box thru a grommet. I had excess length on this cable when I relocated the fuse block into the ex box, so I had the opportunity to re-route this to a more suitable location- being the front side of the seat box, alongside the positive cable to the starter motor. I chucked a teeny tiny M4 nutsert into a weird little bracket that was unused, and hooked this wire up and out of harms way with a P clamp. Solid.

You can see the original wiring location in my previous post.


I was mildly concerned with the distances to the battery box lid. Going over it now, there is plenty of room. The Positive threaded stud of the battery is 35mm from the battery box lid (represented by my straight edge AKA hi lift jack handle). The negative sits higher at approx 25mm.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98782&stc=1&d=1441528811

[Toxic_Avenger]

Part 3 the fit before wiring

Although I'm still waiting on some other bits to finish the install, it's all coming along well, and I've been able to map out and partially fit some of the bits.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98785&stc=1&d=1441530573

I was considering putting the ACR on the transmission tunnel side of the box, but when I was able to eyeball it with the battery tray in situ, it was ditch in favour of this:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=98786&stc=1&d=1441530647

This orientation will allow the RBS to feed straight into the winch fuse, then the wiring will turn up, and leave the box thru some cable glands, and carry on over the gearbox to the RHS chassis rail.

Fuse wise, the plan so far is to have the Mega fuse holder on the front side of the box, closest to the main battery, and the starter / fuse factory box wiring which I have re-routed.
The T Type fuse is ideally for the winch, but the max amperage they make these at is 400A in a 'fast blow' style... I'm thinking I'll temporarily see how this setup goes, and if it's not working (ie I blow the fuse during normal use), I'll wire direct to the RBS and have the winch un fused. I've got plenty of capacity in the cables I've used, so they can be the fuse :twisted:

I'm going to link the charging relay and the RBS together with a link bus- basically joining the RBS (winch switch) and the 2 batteries together, instead of running the winch directly to the Battery and having an additional cable between the battery and RBS input (electrically, I'm not sure if it's best to wire one way or the other...?).

The front most battery location on the inside (trans tunnel) section of the battery box needs to remain relatively clear of stuff, as this is the clearance area for sliding the battery inward before I can lift it out of the box. Even as it stands there is heaps of room behind the batteries (on the door side of the battery box, so there is lots of room for other projects in the future. Watch this space!

That's about all for tonight, there should be some more posts thru the week as I progress.

[Toxic_Avenger]

More progress was made thru the week on the cabling, I was able to snatch a hour or so of an afternoon before it got too dark outside. Bring on daylight savings!

The fuse holder arrived, and I also took delivery of a link bus bar for joining the RBS and ACR. I procured more 50mm2 cable (using Cigweld superflex for this) and some suitable cable lugs and thick glue lined heat shrink in black and red. I also bought some Projecta battery terminals with the 5/16" threaded bolts to which I'll attach my cables once complete.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99059&stc=1&d=1441965571

The first cable was the negative link which will sit between both batteries. As this area is under the seat box, height is not as much of an issue and the assembly was fairly straight forward. The terminals were approx 173mm apart, so with a bit of measurement and holding the tongue the right way, I knocked that cable together. As the welding cable was orange, I gave it a sheath of black, and provided some cable strain relief around the lug with the black glue lined heatshrink. This will aslo serve as a good protection from the elements, and oxidation of the copper down the track which can lead to increased resistance.

With the fuse holder in place, I measured up the main positive feed to the fuse block. This is an odd shaped cable, as it needs to exit the bottom of the fuse block, wrap around the battery, and approach the cranking battery at a nice angle, while maintaining plenty of working room in the battery box for other stuff.
I repurposed the black plastic cable saddle which was used on the negative cable to train the positive cable into (as close to) a 90 degree bend. More glue lined heat shrink helps to set the bend, and keep the cable path fairly tight to the batteries. The above pic does not really offer any view of how it fits together, but the below pic should:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99060&d=1441965554

...and fuse holder with cover on:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99061&d=1441965554

For anyone interested, the earth lead on the factory setup is a 50mm2 cable, but it's got this horrendous hard plastic sheath which makes it almost impossible to get anything tighter than a 150mm diameter bend in it. I lopped the factory terminal arrangement off with extreme prejudice. I think it's clear already how much I hated that arrangement. It's now replaced with a 50mm2 lug, and 8mm diameter hole to match the battery post.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99065&stc=1&d=1441966324

Depending on motivation levels, I might actually relocate this earth cable thru a cable gland lower to the bottom of the battery box, and re-make it with a better cable. Only issue is my ability to crimp a lug in the middle of the cable, as it needs to earth to chassis then the gearbox. This will of course necessitate the sealing of all the holes I now have in the battery box. The path of dynamat in there is getting ever more tempting! It will also help to deaden the large clunk noise that the RBS and ACR will make as they actuate- the rear of the battery box is essentially a drum skin.

The ACR and RBS are bolted in temporarily, there is a hole behind the RBS which I need to plug (this is where the negative cable originally came thru). I've used stainless hardware here, 5mm hex head cap bolts and nylock nuts. I'd prefer if they never came loose and shorted out on anything. That would be rather embarrassing.


Still deciding which position the ACR and RBS should be. The ACR needs a cable to go to each battery, which may be an interesting one to route. Likewise, the RBS needs to feed to a fuse block and then to the winch (and go over the top of the gearbox). Each way has it's own advantages, and I'll probably go for the way that looks nicest, and has best utilization of the space at hand.

[YOLO110]

Checkerpate is SO useful too!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Checkerpate is SO useful too!

Yes it is!
It's like the work bench I don't have. Most of my work is done on the dining room table or in the car port. The footwell of the landy is currently piled high with tools and crap that I use for the task at hand. One night thru the week I spent a whole 3 minutes searching for my 4mm allen key in the fading afternoon light before giving up and finishing for the afternoon. Sure enough, the next afternoon I found that it was right in front of me the whole time.

[YOLO110]

The MOST bizarre feeling I have ever had was...

... 2 hours after I had taken delivery of my brand new Indus silver Defender 100, I was poised over the front wings, blatantly drilling many holes into the body-work of a $50k+ vehicle!!! NUTS :eek:

Looked good after I had the checker plate fitted however! :D

[YOLO110]

The MOST bizarre feeling I have ever had was...

... 2 hours after I had taken delivery of my brand new Indus silver Defender 100, I was poised over the front wings, blatantly drilling many holes into the body-work of a $50k+ vehicle!!! NUTS :eek:

Looked good after I had the checker plate fitted however! :D

P.S... NOT doing this on my Keswick 90! :)

[Toxic_Avenger]

The first hole is the hardest. I cringed when I installed my air compressor. Now I don't think twice!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Well guys, this saga is coming to an end.

Over the weekend I ran the cables from the winch solenoid which lives in the driver's side wing, to the battery box.

The tasks at hand included working out the cable run, make necessary bracket / anchor points and making the final lug crimps and heat shrinking. I also used cable split tube, wrapped in electrical tape, and foil tape where the cables come into areas where there is heat from things like the gearbox, exhaust, cat converter etc.

The cable
I've used 70mm2 Cigweld Superflex welding cable. Aside from being a multi strand cable of 70mm2 Cross sectional area, it's also designed for welding applications - if it can survive a jobsite with a boilermaker, it can survive under a landy. This cable is dual insulated, and rated to withstand 655A @ 30% duty cycle, which in welding is generally calculated at 40 celsuis, over a 10 minute welding window (ie 3 minutes operating, 7 minutes rest (out of ten minutes) at 655A. Given the cable run, voltage drop should be <1 Volt under most operating conditions. Also, I get it at a good price thru work which helps :cool:
I don't have a final count of the cable length used, but I'll count the scraps when I'm done, and subtract from the purchased length.

The cable path
I've mounted the solenoids under the DS wing. I've got 4x 50mm2 cables run from the winch motor, under the DS headlight, and up over the wheel arch. From there, 4 wires have a junction- 3 attach to the solenoid box, 1- the negative attaches to a terminal post that will bolt to the wheel arch. Going back to the battery box is a positive and negative cable of 70mm2.
The path goes:
down DS wheel arch>outside of body support bracket> on top of DS chassis rail> along rail to diesel hose bracket > up to body bracket on underside of body shell > across to PS side of vehicle. From here the cables split- the negative enters the battery box from the rear. The positive enters from the front inside of the battery box (and is secured on the other diesel hose bracket).

Less talking moar pics

Used the glue lined heat shrink for the terminals, then butted up the tubing to the end.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99601&stc=1&d=1442746282


I taped the tubing to the cable with heat shrink on the end, then added an additional layer of heat shrink over the cable to tie it all togher. The negative is shown below.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99602&stc=1&d=1442746282

Finished the ends... Now is the part where I'd just finsihed wrapping the tubing in electrical tape for literally an hour. Looks good though.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99603&stc=1&d=1442746282

At the joins which were being made, I used the same 3M Super 33 tape I used for previous wiring in the ex box. It's quality stuff. If you are a connoisseur of fine tape like I am, do yourself a favour and get a roll. Your life will be changed forever. Sticks like excrement to your wife's favourite duvet, and is incredibly heat resistant. The inadvertant blast of the MAPP gas torch I was using to heat shrink the tubing didn't even touch it.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99605&stc=1&d=1442746282

In the areas which were close to the exhaust, or passing above the transfer case, I opted to wrap the cable/conduit loom with HVAC foil tape. This stuff is equally cool, and should cut cable temps and reduce a lot of the radiant heat in these areas- like factory.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99604&stc=1&d=1442746282
Just like rollin' a fat one :whistling:

[Toxic_Avenger]

...After the cables were made I commenced mounting them under the vehicle.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99607&stc=1&d=1442748048

I was going to use stauff clamps... but I ended up using Narva P clamps in the 19mm ID variety. Readily available, cheap, and easy to work with. The P clamps are sufficient to restrain the cables, and are also relatively space efficient. There is not much room under there to work with, so it was probably for the best. If I were game to weld the chassis, or drill my own new holes to mount the cables, It would be an ideal solution, but alas, I'm just one bloke and a shed, and a project which is over time and budget, but theoretically bulletproof. P-Clamps will do for now ;)

I used M6 rivnuts, inserted into a 9mm hole. Below is the bracket which attached the drivers side footwell floor pan to the RHS chassis rail. The dingleberry part is a mount for the wheel arch plastic (its plastic on a puma, I think older models were steel?)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99606&stc=1&d=1442748048

This bracket was also modified with a rivnut. In the below pic, we are looking at the RHS chassis rail, just below the driver's seat. The bracket is there to carry the diesel hoses from the fuel filter, up and over the T case, and to the other side of the vehicle. There is a similar bracket on the other side... seen below:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99608&stc=1&d=1442748048


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99609&stc=1&d=1442748048

Once all was said and done, the cables were secured.
Below is the first bracket. This is in the driver's side wheel well.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99610&stc=1&d=1442748048

I'll look into making up a bracket to mount here to keep the crud off the cables. A few bends in alloy should do the trick. Might be a good time to try my hand at AC TIG again... this could get interesting... :eek:

[Toxic_Avenger]

Back up at the solenoid box, the negative cable is secured with a P clamp to the wheel arch liner, and the positive is cable tied to it. this should stop any interference with the cabled with the air hose.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99612&stc=1&d=1442749096
The loose end will sit on top of a terminal post. I sort of ****ed up and forgot the winch solenoid wiring diagram... I assumed that the winch motor ground was one of the 3 wires which hooked into the solenoid box directly. I've run another cable, but didn't have enough length to run it the whole way... hence it needs to come up to the terminal post like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/334.jpg


Here we are looking up at the RHS chassis rail, and the point at which the cable cross over from the chassis to the body panel. Again more P clamps, and the start of the foil tape as it crosses over the T case.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99613&stc=1&d=1442749096

Here we see the other side of the T case, and the LHS chassis rail.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99614&stc=1&d=1442749096
The Left cable is the negative cable, and runs along the rear of the batery box, and enters thru a cable gland. The other wire is the positive, and attaches to the LHS bracket which has the diesel hoses on in... again, another P clamp and a Riv Nut. This was a tricky one to secure, as it is tight quarters up there. I was able to luckily get the bolt started in the riv nut when it was off the chassis, then bolt it into place and tighten it the rest of the way.

[Surrufus]

You've put so much time and effort into this, I'm gobsmacked!
I love your work, and I've been following it religiously.

Hopefully this encourages me to do things half as well as you have.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Hi Michael, Cheers!
I'm sure you'll get plenty of chance to make your defender your own when it arrives. There's plenty of fun to be had in individualizing it to suit your own tastes, this thread is just one of a thousand ways to do it! Glad you like it.

[Toxic_Avenger]

So the winch is now operational, albeit hooked up temporarily for now.
I'm not sure about the 400A T Type fuse I've got going on... I'm going to run it in it's half finished state for a while until I work out if it is likely to blow... If it does I have enough length in the cables to wire it without a fuse, or reconsider a different style of fuse.

The dash switches for the ACR / RBS are not yet wired in, but I have the option to actuate the ACR and RBS manually using the yellow switch on top of the unit, so I can manually switch the power to the winch on and off as needed.

The charging relay is all wired up, and just needs some beautification of the cables.

Now all I need to do is find a spot to do some winching and see if I can break it!
:twisted::twisted::twisted:

[Toxic_Avenger]

Did some more work on the landy. The missus calls it 'faffing about' on the car. I guess it describes the pace of my work :p

This weekend's task was to get the last of the 70mm2 cable lugs crimped, the winch up and running, and the switchgear all installed. I'm planning a trip to dubbo this week, so want to get it all working so I can give it a shake-down run.


I dont have immediate access to a lug crimper capable of doing the 70mm2 size, so I had to visit my local friendly electrical wholesaler and borrow theirs. I probably looked like a typical land rover tragic doing running repairs in the parking lot while the customers of the McDonalds next-door looked on, snickering. Easy job, good to have that crossed off the list.

The final crimps allowed me to get full power to the solenoid box, and finalize the switchable power delivery to the winch. 2 more components are on this circuit- the T Type fuse, and the Remote Battery Switch which switches power on and off to the winch. One of my concerns was having large cables permanently powered under the vehicle. most other approaches maintain power to the cables, but allow isolation via the solenoid itself. Other approaches use a marine rotary switch. In my application, I've got a big solenoid switch with a push button actuation with a switch that matches the charging relay ;)

For those not in the know, this is what a T-Type fuse looks like.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99856&stc=1&d=1443342357

It's an ignition protected fuse, considered a fast blow style. According to the specs, it should be OK for what I need it for- If I were drawing 600A, it would blow somewhere around the 500 second mark (8m20s). I was actually concerned it might be too small... but in real terms, I'll probbaly be running a 300A fuse (will blow within 10 seconds @ 750A) or the 350A fuse (will blow in 50seconds @ 700A). At $40 a pop for those fuses, I'll probably keep the 400A one as a spare and start at 300A and see how it fares.
Blow delay curve for Class T fuses
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/199.jpg


Building the switch wiring loom
The switches are a bit messy... I needed to get power from the RBS and ACR solenoids back into the Ex Box where the switches will be mounted. The ACR and RBS use Carling switches, which are a model by the same maker of the ubiquitous 'ARB' style switches.

I used 7 core trailer wire for the signalling to the ACR and RBS. Coated in conduit, and fed out the battery box, folling the standard loom, and into the ex box thru the spare nipple on the factory grommet.
All in all I needed 6 wires to go to the solenoid - basically earth, signal and a led signal wire for each unit. I'm not using any of the fancier features of the ACR (start isolation) so I had a few wires left over. The RBS is basic, so no real features there to worry about.

Half the battle is remembering what wires go to what... so I broke out the old rhino labeller, and printed up some heatshrink tubing... before it promptly ststed to chew up the remainder of the cassette of heat shrink. Oh well... A for effort I guess.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99857&stc=1&d=1443343652

The wires were tinned, and then soldered in the battery box. Heat shrink / electrical tape finished the job.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99858&stc=1&d=1443343790
I've always found that you need 11ty billion hands to solder wires together. But in this case, something heavy is always good to keep things from moving around when you have hot solder and an unsteady hand.

Cutting the switch holes
The carling switches I used needed a 21.08x36.83mm rectangle to mount into. When the ex box was out of the vehicle, I used a jigsaw to gently cut the shape, and finished with a file. In the vehicle I didn't have the space for this luxury. What I opted to do (ghetto-fab skillz) was to mark out the hole with a scriber, swiss cheese that mofo, then pop a 8mm cap (hole) in it's ass. From there it was a bit of hand work with a small hacksaw blade to join the dots, bend out the bits, and finish with a file.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99860&stc=1&d=1443344202

Money shot:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99861&stc=1&d=1443344233

[Toxic_Avenger]

Once that was done, and the switches and loom were it, it was a simple matter of wiring the rest of the gear in.

I used some panel mount thru terminals for the positive and negative feed into the ex box... you can read about that in a previous post (Jan 2015 IIRC). Now that the aux battery and everything else was finalized, i could now get power to those posts - 1 positive ran to the Aux battery, and the negative attached directly onto the chassis earth point below the battery box. I repurposed some 35mm2 cables from the winch for this.
I have the power.

Now that power was 'in' the ex box, I proceeded to wire up the fuse blocks I have on the double decker arrangement I made. I used 16mm2 (6 gauge) cables in red and black.

Earth cables were made and attach directly to the black earth terminal thru stud
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99862&stc=1&d=1443345089

The positive feed for each fuse blockcomes from their respective circuit breaker:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99863&stc=1&d=1443345163
This cable is for the 'always powered' fuse block. This will be powered whether the vehicle is on or off, and will deplete the AUX battery.
The fuse block in the foreground is switched with the ignition via a 200A relay. If the car is off, these accessories will have no power.


And somewhat finished...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99864&stc=1&d=1443345394

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99865&stc=1&d=1443345416

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99866&stc=1&d=1443345416

I'll give the whole setup a shake down and see how it travels. After that there will be a few more little tasks of cleaning up the cabling and re routing the mind**** of wiring from previous installs and the job will be done.

Also need to setup the remote control switch for the winch and shorten the cable for that as well... then it's all systems go for the long haul.


Until next time,
cheerio

[Disco Muppet]

Seriously impressive.
I have no idea what half of it means but I like what I'm seeing! :D
Top shelf thinking :cool:

[cuppabillytea]

Hi Mitch. You are doing a fantastic job, both on your 90 and this thread. Keep up the good work. I might just pinch one or two of your clever notions, if you don't mind.
Cheers, Billy.

[AndyG]

Makes me feel seriously inadequate :(

[Tombie]

Looking great mate!

[YOLO110]

Where is the warp drive unit going? ;)

Very impressive workmanship mate. :cool:

[Toxic_Avenger]

Thanks for the words of support everyone.
I'm all for sharing ideas and letting people grow these ideas into their own, so if you want any further info get in touch!

Currently rolled up in the swag in downtown Dubbo, on a trip for a few days to see the zoo. Been an interesting day on the road.
35km into the trip I ran over a snake-it was Brown and across half the lane. Got him good :wasntme:

By the 1 hour mark, I encountered a tumble weed at 100km/h. Also got it good as it rolled across the lane, then back into my path. Bullbar did is job and I giggled a bit as it exploded into lors of little bits:D

By the 200km mark, there was a mechanical failure, but nothing serious. A spanner and removal of the offending part solved that problem.

More details at a later stage when I have a real computer to use, not the tablet.

Camp for the night. Erin is in the taj mahal... I'm not that fancy.
Dinner was sushi -tasty and delicious. Although I did have my apprehensions as seafood this far from the ocean is always a bit iffy.

[Col 110]

Can I say - 1st what a cool photo of the 'fender in the back ground in the camp site - say's it all.

But also - how your camp site shows the same quality as your electrical work :)

Very nicley laid out - if it was my camp it would look like the proverbial :wasntme:

Nice work and thanks for sharing.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Cheers col.
It's a bit of a long bow to draw though, we are caping really light and just setting up camp and pulling down each day. No cooking as we have non perishable stuff and buying what we can locally. Always easy to have a neat camp when you have nothing to make it look messy!
Tonight's camp is at the same place but the tarp is my second roof. My swag has a canvas bottom and is not sealed at the had end. There might be some rain tonight, so playing it safe.
Chinese food for tea tonight. shibby!


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100056&d=1443600362

[Toxic_Avenger]

Just a quick one to add some more pics and wrap up on the recent dubbo trip

The main event of the trip was to go to the Taronga Western Plains Zoo. I've had orders that I need to take erin there for the past few months, so now was as good a time as any...

Day 1
Left Tamworth at the leisurely hour of 1130, after a last minute rush to get packed.
From Tamworth we headed south to Werris Creek, followed by Caroona, and a lunch stop at Spring Ridge (sandwiches at the football field, although there is a nice pub there too).
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100241&stc=1&d=1444024794

From there we headed further west to Premer, then south to Coolah, where we stopped for some afternoon tea at the bakery- a iced coffee and a pecan tart (which was very good). This is a nice place to stop if you are ever around the Warrumbungles area.

South of coolah, we met with the Golden Highway, and headed west again to Dunnedoo, then on to Dubbo, where we arrived for night 1. We stayed at the Poplat caravan park, which is right on Macquarie st, and very close to town. $25 a night which was worth it.

Day 2
We woke early to attend the early morning zoo walk for a 0645 start. This was run by volunteers at the zoo, and proceeds go towards helping build new exhibits, fund breeding programs etc. It was also an interesting 'behind the scenes' view of what it takes to run a zoo, getting closer to the animals that are not on display, and are in training, or in quarrantine before being shipped elsewhere for examination or breeding.
We frinished that around 0915, then started to walk the zoo proper. We did the usual walk around for the first 3km of the trail, then deaded back to the main pavillion for lunch, then opted to drive back to where we left off (the zoo is a 6km long loop, so can be driven, cycled, walked (run:eek:) or travelled in a hired golf buggy).
We saw the sights and kicked on until about 1530hrs where we were both too buggered to be bothered with the more mainstream animals which we were well accustomed
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/902.jpg


Various images of the day:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100246&stc=1&d=1444026893

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100248&stc=1&d=1444026893

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100247&stc=1&d=1444026893

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100249&stc=1&d=1444026893

[Toxic_Avenger]

Now... I understand most of you aren't here to see the wildlife shots, as we have a few threads on that already, and the phone cameras we have are no match for a nice DSLR... so instead I show the you highlights of my adventure (what this thread is all about :p ):

Mitch's Adventure

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100250&stc=1&d=1444027593

Mitch's Cave
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100251&stc=1&d=1444027593

Mitch's Creek
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/901.jpg

Riding a* Galaphagos Tortoise
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100255&stc=1&d=1444027593

Brown Baggin' it in a seedy Dubbo back alley
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100256&stc=1&d=1444027593

Day 3
We fed some giraffes on day 3 in the morning, and other shannanigans happened as per above.

Day 4
We left dubbo early and stopped into the Wellington caves for a tour. We saw stalagtites, Stalagmites, an underground lake, but sadly no creepers. :(
Minecraft has given me false expectations of what I'll find underground. So much for spelunking.

We headed south to Orange, and I dropped Erin off at the shops to see the sights while I caught up with Disco Muppet. We spent some time that day fixing a intermittant driving light on Mr Muppet's Disco, which turned out being a loose negative wire on the loom. it was an easy fix!

That evening, we caught up with Mr Disco Muppet, and had a chance encounter with Mr Mick Marsh and Mr Alien. A jolly good time was had at a pub in Bathurst, where we had dinner, lots of Land Rover talk, and I avoided the ban stick for another day ;) It was nice to meet Mick and Kyle- Alien's truck has some very nice electrical additions which I'll be happy to pilfer some ideas from!

Day 5
After a night in Orange, we departed early- around 0800hrs, to make a B-line back to Tamworth. We arrived back by 1300, then got ready for a friend's party that night.
All in all, it was a good 4.5 day trip, more 'hanging around' that I would have preferred (I prefer to be on the move than sitting around looking at shops etc), but it was an interesting trip nonetheless.

*fibreglass

[Disco Muppet]

Was good to catch up again! :D
Next time we'll have to go for a drive ;)

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[Toxic_Avenger]

Just a quick one... did some soldering over the weekend on the loom for the wireless control box for the winch.
The factory cable is about 2.5m long. I need it to be about 30cm tops...

So out comes the trusty soldering iron again, and I turned this:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100297&stc=1&d=1444114977

Into this:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100298&stc=1&d=1444114977

The loom had some funky bulges in it, I wasn't sure if there was any diodes or anything else in there, but luckily, it was just a result of Warn's propensity to create bulky solder joints, and really thick heatshrink.

On one end of the unit, there is a deutsch connector, which runs off 18 gauge wires. The unit is fused, but the fuse holder has larger 16 gauge wires. There were some solder joins which split power from the main connector port into 2 pins on the deutsch plug... so I assume that the control box has a power circuit and a control (switched output) circuit of some description.

What I ended up doing was shortening it both sides of the fuse holder. This was a simple matter of cutting and rejoining the solder joins where necessary, applying heat shrink, and tidying up the loom.

Wherever possible, I try to stagger the soldered joins, so that the final loom does not end up like a python that's just swallowed a wallaby.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100299&stc=1&d=1444115419

A good wrap with some electrical tape and she's apples.
This will remain plugged into the wireless control module and winch connector port in the engine bay, and be secured alongside the factory wiring. When I need to go full retard and want to connect the wired controller, it's a simple matter of disconnecting one, and adding the other.

[Toxic_Avenger]

BONUS FOOTAGE!!!

Also gave the winch a run over the weekend. Pulls harder than a 14 year old with a rudey mag.
Just did some test pulls up a track at the state forest- nothing spectacular, but was getting a solid pull with very little slowing of the winch motor under load. And by load I was on soft dirt with the foot hard on the anchors, pulling up a 1:20 grade. Sure there is probably better tests out there, but you can only play the cards you got.

For anyone who has just joined us, the winch is a Warn XDC-s 9500lb.
I was running it up and down the slope over a period of 15 minutes, stopping occasionally to check wire temps, fuse temp and the motor case. Hottest component by far was the motor casing, which was to be expected. Ambient temps were in the high 20's, maybe low 30's. Celsius. That's 303.15 Kelvin for those fellow geeks out there :cool:.
Future tests might try to get the unit up to it's thermometric cut out which is a feature of the winch... but I have not yet got there. When I emailled Warn tech support, they weren't too forthcoming with the paramaters / temps at whcih this comes on, so I might be abel to gather some more data when I can.

No pics, sorry!

[Toxic_Avenger]

I love the postman.
He brings the coolest stuff.

Today at work I heard the familiar 'beep!' of the postman's scanner as he walked into the shop.
Lo and behold, there was the glorious yellow and white express post bag I'd been waiting for.
In a fit of excitement I tore into the bag, revealing...















My Factor 55 flat link shackle.
This afternoon, I prepared my beverage, and removed this:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100390&stc=1&d=1444286623

Replaced it with this:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100391&stc=1&d=1444286623

All in the space of one sip of this:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100392&stc=1&d=1444286623
Booze Revooz:
If you like cinnamon, this is a not half-bad drink. It's a spiced whiskey and apple concoction. Not very sessionable... I reckon 2 would hold you up before you feel like licking some sandpaper to get the aftertaste away... But a nice change from the normal.


There will be some wheeling this weekend down in Newcastle. Myself and some non land rover mates will be going around the Kurri Kurri area- I will be sure to take plenty of pics.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Caught up with some buddies down in Newcastle over the weekend, had a bit of a play around the Kurri / Pelaw Main / Neath area in the tracks that go around the power lines. Tracks were very flat, not much in the way of hills and technical tracks- it was mainly mud holes, mud holes, and more mud holes. But fun nonetheless. Good way to spend a saturday afternoon.

Some video

https://youtu.be/o0PnzcnDYGs
With a group of spectators and a mob of trail bikes you can hear in the clip, my TC lever jumped out of high range and into neutral with the first bump in the bog hole. How embarrasment. :p

https://youtu.be/hpebtNkl_ac
Shrek eats this kind of thing for breakfast. Albeit with more mud in the drivers compartment- the soft top is less watertight than the deefer! In one previous mud hole, the driver claims that the water pressure shot out all the rubber bungs in the floorpan, causing a factory in-cab geyser! No such shennanigans this thime though.

https://youtu.be/sgPBwfGjJu4
Shrek attempts a interesting washout section in a track leading down to the creek. The passenger side of the track had a large tree root, and a big undercut washout section, and a heap of side angle, requiring the line to start high, and lean it over into the bank. With no Power steering, a jolt at the wheels made for an interesting time for the styeering wheel attendent! After a pause half way down to pull in a side mirror, the last half of the section was driving straight into that bank with a lack of armpower to overcome the steering. I guess the series guys know them feels?

https://youtu.be/5rJUFO4jM68
The deefer walked it. But then again, low 1, CDL, and a bit of braking and it was all over.

The cast
Mitch, 'The Toxic Avenger' - Defender 90
'Shrek' - Toyota FJ40
'Bob' - Toyota HJ60
Nissan (D40?) Navara with lift etc
Ford Courier

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100513&stc=1&d=1444561628

Shrek is an interesting vehicle. A SWB FJ40 soft top powered by a 2H toyota diesel. Soon to be repowered with a 12H-T diesel. Same utilitarian principle as the defender... but his toyota is about 40 years older than my deefer! Still holds its own against the other vehicles out there on the day, and has massive street cred too. Iconic.



Booze revooz
The above pic was taken at Neath Pub, near Cessnock NSW (there is an interesting limerick about a woman from neath, if you dare to Google it :eek:)
We stopped by the pub for some lunch and a beer at the end of the day. XXXX Gold - Is Good!
Enjoyed a Jameson and ginger beer premix with dinner. The jameson and raw cola is also good.

[carlschmid2002]

Get the dealer to look at transfer lever adjustment if it is still under warranty. Mine did this from new. Once adjusted under warranty it never did it again.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I was in low range, then knocked it up to high before the mud. I think it was only half engaged though- I had drive, but the first bump knocked it back into neutral. It was easy to get it back into high though- it seems like the cogs didn't entirely mesh the first time. Does this sound like your symptoms?

[cuppabillytea]

Ok Mitch. Now tell us which one of you did the donuts.
Thanks for the picks and vids by the way.
Cheers, Billy.

[Toxic_Avenger]

There was a fully sick nissan 370Z in the car park, I was smitten. But that's just speculation!
It wasn't the deefer :angel:

[cuppabillytea]

OK. I'll accept that defence...... This time. :p

[carlschmid2002]

I was in low range, then knocked it up to high before the mud. I think it was only half engaged though- I had drive, but the first bump knocked it back into neutral. It was easy to get it back into high though- it seems like the cogs didn't entirely mesh the first time. Does this sound like your symptoms?

Yes it does. If it is under warranty it is a known fault. Little bit of adjustment and all sweet. if out of warranty I guess get it looked at on next service. It should stay in gear.

[SG1 Bones]

40 Series Cruisers are great (not as good as a Land Rover) my mates got a 3B SWB BJ40 and his engine did 3, 000, 000klms (that he knows of) before it carcked it. Their biggest down side is rust they start rusting at the threat of rain.

Nathan.

[kogvos]

Get the dealer to look at transfer lever adjustment if it is still under warranty. Mine did this from new. Once adjusted under warranty it never did it again.
Exactly the same thing for me... CDL was popping out at the first whiff of corrugations. It was fixed by the dealer a few weeks ago at 17,000 km. Hasn't popped out since.

[cuppabillytea]

I wonder if it's a ninety thing. My 110 has done some bone jarring banging and bouncing but hasn't popped once.

[kogvos]

I wonder if it's a ninety thing. My 110 has done some bone jarring banging and bouncing but hasn't popped once.
I think it's just one of those random Land Rover features that some of us are lucky enough to get as a no-cost extra. [emoji4]

[carlschmid2002]

I was in low range, then knocked it up to high before the mud. I think it was only half engaged though- I had drive, but the first bump knocked it back into neutral. It was easy to get it back into high though- it seems like the cogs didn't entirely mesh the first time. Does this sound like your symptoms?

Yes, It was Daniel from Mungo who suggested I get it looked at when it got serviced. never happened again.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Good hustle everyone! I'll keep an eye on it in my upcoming adventures, and raise it the next time it visits the workshop.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Took a nice drive thru Nundle state forest today.
Sadly, I did not get any pics, however it was a very picturesque area to explore (see the map below).

http://www.forestrycorporation.com.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0003/510807/fossicking-area-map-nundle-state-forest.pdf

Tracks range from graded dirt logging roads, to some pretty gnarly tracks of rock, clay and mud holes.

Most of it is pine plantation, however there are areas of eucalypt forest, and areas that have been recently logged. It's all at altitude too, it was snowing up there in early July, as the pic below shows:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=100765&stc=1&d=1445161535

All in all, today's afternoon trip was about 5 hours travel, with 3 of those being exploring off tarmac. It's a massive area, and even just taking a random track wherever I saw it, I still only managed to drive around the Chapmans farm / Hoads Farm area on the map, and circled around baldy knob (where the firetower is). Being pine forest, some areas are stripped bare, some are old and overgrown (one sign showed an area was planed in the early 70's),but all make for good driving.

I'll get some pics next time. It really is a nice area, and I'd recommend anyone who is in the area stop by for an explore.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Forgive me, I have sinned.

My wiring job went AWOL somewhere along the line after a few hasty re-installations of some accessories I had not fully moved into the ex box.

After re-connecting the air compressor and doing a few mud runs on the 'dirty weekend' above,

This...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/99866d1443345394-meet-my-90-share-adventure-2709201507.jpg

somehow turned into this...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101447&stc=1&d=1446581245

It's all good though, I removed the batteries, got out the hose and flushed all the mud and crud out. The RBS and ACR units loved it, being water proof and all that :p

I previously mentioned the dead space behind the battery (on the batt box wall closest the door), and to 'watch this space' for future surprises.

The cat's out of the bag now, and the plan is to use this space behind the batteries (closest to the door, pic upside down for some reason)...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101448&stc=1&d=1446581245

To house one of these skookum choochers
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/938.jpg

The specs:
Blue sea systems Safety Hub 150, 10 circuit fuse block.
Uses AMI fuses for loads up to 200A (think inverters, stereo amplifiers, other fuse blocks etc), and ATC fuses (standard automotive style) for other loads up to 30A (lights, accessories etc). Total fuse block can handle up to 280A, so a solid little device in a really attractive form factor / footprint.

If I were starting my ex box from scratch, I'd be working one (or two) of these into the design for sure!

In other news, I've been trying to work out cable routing for lights / fridge / other connections in the rear loadspace of the vehicle. I've got a rijidij rear bar on order, so there will be some interesting things happening there, necessitating the need for power back there. The factory wiring for the tail lights and trailer wiring runs along the LHS chassis, and this is one way I can do it, otherwise I can try to run wiring thru the window trim inside the vehicle. Much of a muchness either way, but still something to contemplate.

In keeping with the theme of off-licence parts in this build (this landy is looking to be more boat parts and knight-rider than defender), I spied some PVC corrugated conduit at bunnings which will make a suitable semi-watertight cable routing solution for fore/aft power out of the battery box. This will work as a suitable link between the ex box, and the inside of the battery box for all the small little wires that need to go between (signal wires for the ACR / RBS, air compressor switch wiring, etc). It's normally used for household / commercial power installation. I've seen some very nice (but horrendously expensive - like $15 per meter, min lot of 10m) conduit from Tyco / Flexicon which is temp reisitant to 150 celsius, but this stuff is good for 60 degrees, and was 13 bucks for 10 meters. Winning
http://treasure.diylol.com/uploads/post/image/220231/resized_clean-sheen-meme-generator-if-you-need-me-ill-be-over-here-winning-1dc650.jpg

As per this thread (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/227401-safe-drill-here-close-seatbelt-reel.html) I started, I was trying to work out a way to get power neatly from the battery box to inside the vehicle up on the wheel well, but will probably just use an existing hole in the battery box lid near the seat rail, to get the air compressor wiring into the box, and just grommet it.
Wiring to front and back can be done with tubing and along the chassis rail, leaving the battery box via a cable gland or something... I'll probably just wing it when the time comes.

Anderson plug for aux battery and rear of vehicle is still on the cards, as is some camp lights on the roof rack and in the load space, as well as some kind of switch board in the back for control of the lot. Once all this crap is sorted, it will be easy to chop and change accessories as needed with minimal fuss.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Just thought I'd post a quick instructable for an off-licence use of some bunnings electrical conduit accessories for managing cables in a dual battery install.

The 70mm2 cable I use is fairly flexible, but still needs some coaxing around 90 degree bends.

Looking thru the bunnings aisles, I spied the Deta range of conduit bends, which got me thinking...
The factory earth cable uses a 90 degree plastic bend to train the cable to the earth post. I could recreate this using these parts, simple tools and electrical tape or heat shrink...


Step 1 - Acquire hardware
Deta 20mm conduit bends 3 off @ $1.05 ea

Step 2 - Dremel action
Using a dremel and small cutoff wheel, cut a slit along the side of the bend (not the large or small radius). I cut only what was necessary, and took approx 10mm
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101539&stc=1&d=1446721054

Step 3 - Tidy up
I used a deburring tool to slice off the dags as needed. But moved to a dremel and sanding drum as it was a little faster.

Step 4 - Insert cable
Pretty self explanatory.
But pro tip- use the off cuts of the PVC to find the melting point and properties of the plastic. My particular sample seems to be a 'thermosetting' plastic, meaning a waft of heat and it becomes very pliable. This would allow installation along a cable where you don't have access to an end. Be sure to tape it closed while it's still warm to allow it to 'set' on the cable before the next step

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101540&stc=1&d=1446721054

Step 5 - Tape or heatshrink
Personal preference. I'll do this once I fit it on the car.

I hope you enjoy laying your cable as much as I did!

[cuppabillytea]

Nothing wrong with that Battery Box at all. Looks just like a Pro Hart. :angel:

[Toxic_Avenger]

Nothing wrong with that Battery Box at all. Looks just like a Pro Hart. :angel:

Or pro heart surgery gone wrong... :eek:

This came in the mail last week.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101674&stc=1&d=1446973537
Loaded it up with some MIDI fuses I picked up in newcastle over the weekend. I've discovered whitworths marine in Broadmeadow, which has some cool stuff to get me into trouble if I ever need it :twisted:

Spent most of the afternoon driving Newcastle>Tamworth, so just managed to do a quick mockup this afternoon in the fading sunlight, and the fitment should be primo. MIDI fuse lugs point towards the rear of the vehicle, the earth points face towards the bottom of the battery box, and the positive feed is in a spot with plenty of space to be insulated from wayward shorts. So looking into the battery box from the drivers seat will have it installed in the same orientation.


While in Newcastle, I also stopped by ARB to have a squiz at some battery state of charge monitors. There are some very interesting devices out there that can calculate the remaining battery capacity and instantaneous amp draw thru either a shunt on the negative cable, or a hall effect sensor. It would be a nice to know gauge for the vehicle, but might just be another 'gadget' to complicate the electronics further. The simple method would be to get a couple of cheap volt meters off ebay and hook one to each battery, and use the 0% SoC voltage to work out what power you have left.

I planned to leave empty handed from ARB, but this struck me as a nice accessory for the roof rack - it's a hi lift / shovel holder bracket, and should allow me to re-assemble the hi-lift and keep it up there as opposed to resting in peices between the driver's seat box and the post clanging around the back loadspace. I don't own a shovel, so that might have to change in the coming days... so I can get some imstalled pics happening.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101673&stc=1&d=1446973426

Driving today, saw a few nice deefers, but I was flying incognito in the work car, so my waves were unnoticed. One black puma in the Kotara homemakers carpark near dan murphys, and another white one in aberdeen with 110 DFR plates. Looked tuff!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Productive day today, spent most of the day working out the kinks in the battery box.
Worklist was:


Tidy up the stereo wiring for the sub/amp and associated power cabling for the amp and air-compressor.
Re-route the ex box power feed and main body earth cables
Install a cable feed for wiring between the ex box and the battery box.



Stereo wiring
The vehicle came into my posessions with an aftermarket stero. It's got soundstream speakers, an alpine sub/amp and head unit. The wiring for this however left a bit to be desired, with tufts of cables scrunched up, zip-tied and stuffed where the installers thought no one would ever find them. That is, until I came along :twisted:
Here is one of many examples- speaker cabling behind the rear speaker.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/562.jpg

There's probably 10+ meters of copper there doing absolutely nothing but add resistance to the circuit, and getting less power to the speaker to actually do it's job. That job is on the cards, but will be tackled another day. Even for an installer, ther'd be 1 snip of the side cutters, a couple of solder sleeves, and they'd get another installs worth of cabling to use for the next job! But I digress...

The order of the day was the sub/amp wiring. The amp has a pair of RCA cables and a remote wire that comes from the head unit, and the sub itself is powered from a + and - from the battery.

I armed mysself with some 16mm split conduit, and a selection of electrical tape, harness bits (T's, Y's, and ends- these things are awesome), and got to work.

I'll spare you mob the details, but this is the outcome:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101945&stc=1&d=1447494377
Here we see it all wrapped up. Excuse the gal brackets holding the amp onto the box- not my work!
You can see the end connectors and a Tee piece which really do neaten up the install. Easily sourced from supercheap, they make this kind of thing an easy task. The black remote wire, and the grey RCA cables at the amp, run thru the loom on the left, under the mat on the trans tunnel, and up under the dash to the head unit. The Red power cables are the positive and negative power for the amp, and run down thru the Tee piece...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101946&stc=1&d=1447494377
...and thru some P clamps along the trim panel near the load space. This should clear the seat sliding mechanism, but might be a problem if I ever go for that mulgo rail. I'm short, so shouldn't ever have that problem!

A number of months back I sourced some rubber grommets with the 'tails' on them for mounting things into and out of the battery box or ex-box. Today I got to use one, as I'd previously changed my mind on their intended application and put them away in a parts box.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101949&d=1447494253
Here we see the location of the standard hole which is put into the seat box, and sealed with a rubber grommet. What I've done here is drilled it out to approx 30mm for use with my grommet. You can see the rivet which is used to hold the brace for the seat mounts in place- I needed to ensure I wasn't too close to that brace when enlargening that hole.

After crackling the lube out (silicone spray- my favourite libation), I managed to squeeze a heap of cables thru, like thus:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101947&d=1447494253
The wires to the right go to the air compressor which I've mounted on the rear wheel arch. The wires for this (control wires, and power) have been given the same split conduit and tape treatment, and should be relatively protected from the elements.


On the inside of the box, the amp/sub and air compressor are hooked into the safety hub 150 (upside-down pic is upside down).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101948&d=1447494253
Almost pornographic.
I fused the air compressor wiring at a slightly higher 50A than the factory 40A maxi fuse for one wire, and 40A on the other. 40A fuses are what were supplied with the loom, but there were some online reports of these fuses blowing with longer cable runs, and higher than normal ambient air temps and compressor duty cycles. I'll suck it and see what happens here, and report back if anything blows / melts / kills us all.

I still need to hook up the primary Positive and negative wires from the AUX battery to this fuse hub, but after that, It'll be an easy job to hook in other little accessories as needed. The negative bus is along the bottom, and the standard ATC fuses are near the white fuse puller for circuits <40A. The blank 100A fuse position will be for a wire run that goes into the rear load space, Which will exit the rear of the battery box, go along the chassis loom, and enter the load space near the bundle of madness which I pictured above. This will feed things like load space lighting, exterior lighting, and if I want to get real crazy, rock lights in the wheel wells for night driving :cool:.

I swear I'm not afraid of the dark :angel:

[Toxic_Avenger]

Part 2!

Job 2: Re-route the ex box power feed and main body earth

I'ts no secret that the wiring job I worked hard for went to **** when I started adding accessories direct to the battery. Just the sheer complexity of all the crap I've got going on in here makes it difficult to see, let alone know what's happening.

The setup connections are:
Cranking battery Positive
Main positive to 500A fuse block / starter and factory fuse block / vehicle electrics
Cable to the ACR for charge controlling

Cranking battery Negative

Main body earth (This meets up with the ex-box negative feed links back at the chassis earth)
Cranking battery / AUX battery negative link
Safety Hub 150 Negative cable
Winch Negative cable
AUX battery Positive
ACR cable
Winch positve (to RBS, then to the T-type Fuse block)
Ex-Box pisitive feed (now thru a new cable gland)
Safety Hub 150 positive feed
Terminal MBRF fuse holder and Ex Box positive feed cable, which also had driving lights and other crap connected to it, making a mess
AUX battery Negative
Main/Aux battery negative link
On the above list, the Green items are the ones I've worked on today, and have added or relocated from previous posts. The red items are the ones I've deleted, or moved back to the safety Hub

Long story short, you can see why I went the Blue top optimas with the extra post terminals over the yellow tops without!



Part of the plan today was to relocate cables on the inside wall of the battery box (trans tunnes side). Here there were a few cables coming in the centre area, getting in the way, and cluttering the area where I'd like to store some other small items like the jack (if it fits), or small parts.
I've just used cable glands to get the cables in and out. They are IP rated, and support the cable from any risk of chafing and shorting out. Cheap too, at a couple of bucks a piece from your favourite electrical wholesaler.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101951&d=1447499313
Here is the ex box positive feed, which now enters from the rear of the battery box, alongside the winch Negative cable. Pro points for duct tape covering a draining hole in the bottom of the battery box! I removed the tray and it had filled with mud from a the dirty weekend- even after I'd hosed it all out! One day, I might install a drain valve or something, and then seal it all up with silicone.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101952&d=1447499313
Here, I've added a cable gland for the Main chassis negative cable, which is tucked behind the starter motor positive cable. The winch positive enters alongside it.
Further along, I've blanked off the factory hole with a ~30mm (inch and a quarter, IIRC) blanking grommet. The other hole will be treated the same, once I remove the wiring there, and move it to the white cable gland which I've just recently installed (in the middle of the above pic)




This brings me to my new innovation, which I call the ****- Toxic's Wide Apeture cable Tunnel ;)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101953&d=1447499313
I've drilled a hole in the bottom of the ex box, and installed a flexible corrugated cable gland. A similar hole / galnd has been drilled into the inboard side of the battery box, and pictured above.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101954&d=1447499313
Between the two, there is a short (<20cm) length of conduit...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101955&d=1447499313
...Allowing the **** to do it's thing- allowing easy access between the battery box, and the ex box! I've inserted a red wire into my **** for dramatic effect here :D

This will be perfect for small cables for switches which will be mounted on the ex box, and might need to exit the battery box to go to accessories in the rear as I described in the previous post. The first items to go thru my **** will be the ACR/RBS switch control wires, and Air compressor switch wires.


My job tomorrow will be to finalize most of this, get some of the switch wiring tidied up (again! I've got some loose connections going on) and get the battery tray back in, and take it for a drive (if there's time!).

Booze Revooz for tonight was a glenlevit 15yo scotch and soda. notbad.jpeg.

Stay tuned!

[cuppabillytea]

Question for you Mitch. Is that coil of wire in the speaker circuit, as supplied by the factory? Perhaps a shortened 110 loom? In any event you should get rid of it. At the risk of stating the bleeding obvious. Not only does the extended length increase Voltage drop it all acts as a Coil, i.e. it will induce unwanted currents into the circuit and muddy the sound from the speakers.
Cheers,Billy.

[Toxic_Avenger]

To the best of my knowledge it's aftermarket wiring. Surely Land Rover wouldn't be so daft :p

[cuppabillytea]

Or sloppy. :angel:

[Toxic_Avenger]

More progress today:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101983&stc=1&d=1447575869
Stuffed my **** with more wires back up to the Ex-Box. Managed to re-wire the RBS and ACR switchgear no problems using the old loom, and cutting / shutting the old wiring with solder and heatshrink.

Also drilled / inserted some M5 nutserts to hold down the T-type fuse holder. I'm 90% confident that I'll never see the draw needed to blow that fuse unless there is a failure.

All buttoned up
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101984&stc=1&d=1447575869
For bonus points, I re-purposed one of the cable holding clips that land rover has put around the place. This serves to keep the small and fiddly wires that go into the **** out of harms way, and relatively neat and tidy.

The finished job- Now with less clutter!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101985&stc=1&d=1447575869

Boring pic is boring
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=101986&stc=1&d=1447575869
Also made an incision in the seat box mat to sit around the new wire entry. Might look into some double sided tape, or even some rivnuts and some extra fasteners to pull it back into place. It's been beaten up over the past week of me working around, and on it.

Still a lot of cleaning up to do in the car, currently there is crap everywhere.

A job for thru the week will be to wire in the air compressor switch. I have the ARB twin pump job. Buggered if I know where the wiring instructions went, but I haven't the foggiest how to wire it up, and the ARB website gives bugger all advice. I need to get it wired so that it does not utilise the 'isolator switch' that is used for the air lockers.

Any hints chaps?

[cuppabillytea]

That's better. Now it looks more like a Mondrian.

[AndyG]

Do you think it would be worthwhile to put some insulation around that tie down bar, i could see myself having a welding moment.
But am in awe, am planning my feeble efforts over Xmas

[Toxic_Avenger]

Do you think it would be worthwhile to put some insulation around that tie down bar, i could see myself having a welding moment.
But am in awe, am planning my feeble efforts over Xmas

Thanks for your support!

Regarding arcing, the thought had crossed my mind. But looking into it, there is a heap of extra thick glue-lined heat shrink around the positive connections, and the negative parts are at the same potential as ground (tie down bolts to battery tray, tray bolts to body, body bolts to chassis, chassis is connected to negative battery terminal).

Arcing is still a possibility from a poorly placed spanner, but I'm confident there will be no issues with the terminals arcing between the tie down and the lugs.
I asked the question here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/224628-defender-devon-4x4-battery-tray-optima-blue-top-terminal-spacing.html), and long story short, arcing happens when high voltages are involved, and the distance for arc jumping in air at those voltages is some phenominally short distance- probably fractions of a millimeter. On the other hand, if there is a crash, then it will probably arc out anyway, but no amount of spacing will prevent that.
I think I'm safe for now, but will keep an eye on it.

I've got an assortment of battery terminal caps, but they might require some modification to make work, as the cable run is a bit 'artistic' for the standard cap design

[cuppabillytea]

The terminal posts are in a raised platform as well. I think it looks scarier than it is, but given that you have all that all that heat shrink it would't hurt. It might afford the battery top some protection against abrasion also.
Cheers, Billy.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Did this this afternoon.
Because I can.

Battery terminal caps
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102081&stc=1&d=1447759039

They are both a supple silicone rubber type material. The LHS one just slides back to get to the terminal post. The RHS has a cap that just press fits on top.
Buggered if I know how to insulate the remaining exposed positive terminal.

[AndyG]

What's that rubber paint ?
I rally meant when you were moving the bar on off or a stray spanner, but truely have it covered now , no pun intended

Offhand do you happen to know the size of the large hole FR. in the battery box where the main cables exit, mine has no grommet, not sure if it ever did.

When you disconnect the batteries do you follow the LR procedure or just do it.

[AndyG]

Toxic,
Talked myself into one ;)
Any idea the best size heat shrink for Cat6 cables ?

[Toxic_Avenger]

Toxic,
Talked myself into one ;)
Any idea the best size heat shrink for Cat6 cables ?

3M Part number PLHS-WHT-1/2 should do the trick (for my labeller at least). That's white 1/2 inch (12mm) heatshrink on a 1.5m spool.
Won't slide over the connector, but I assume you will be adding your own ends to the Cat6 cable which you cut to length? Most heat shrink will shrink down to 50% of it's starting diameter.

Of course, check the consumable options for whatever labeller you end up purchasing, to be 100% sure that it's fit for purpose.

[cuppabillytea]

Hi Mitch. Long long ago when I was an Apprentice Electrical Fitter we used to to put shrink insulation on our shifter handles to prevent arcing. Just a thought. Also again stating the bleeding obvious. I hope you ventilate your Battery Box for a while before you go at the terminals. I once saw a bloke blow himself quite a distance doing that. Mind you it was 200 times the Battery you've got, in a space you could fit into twice.
Cheers, Billy.

[Toxic_Avenger]

That is a good idea indeed.
As for the battery gases, I've used 'ignition protected' fuses / fuse holders where possible, but conversely, the battery box is fairly well ventilated from the top with the sliding plate which clips down. With Hydrogen being the primary gas produced by lead acid batteries, and being much less dense than air, I hope I'll be OK.
On top of that the Lower Explosive Limit (LEL) of H2 in Air is around 18% by volume- so just spitballing, but I might even be pushing it to be able to even contain that much light gas in that space, even if the batteries were significant'y venting.

[cuppabillytea]

Yep. You are probably correct. The question would then be. How fast would Hydrogen rise amongst a lot of other light gasses? It's just a thought Mitch.
The bloke I saw was standing in an opening 2M square, but to be fair, it was a massive bank of batteries under heavy charge with all caps off cells.
Sorry but they drum this stuff into us in Maritime Collage as well. I've probably been made paranoid. :eek:
Cheers Billy.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yep. You are probably correct. The question would then be. How fast would Hydrogen rise amongst a lot of other light gasses? It's just a thought Mitch.
The bloke I saw was standing in an opening 2M square, but to be fair, it was a massive bank of batteries under heavy charge with all caps off cells.
Sorry but they drum this stuff into us in Maritime Collage as well. I've probably been made paranoid. :eek:
Cheers Billy.

The answer would be 'faster than a helium balloon floats to the ceiling'.

I decided to dive down the rabbit hole, and do some research.
This came across as an interesting paper. Seems to have some interesting points.
http://www.battcon.com/papersfinal2008/odonnellpaper2008proof_6.pdf

In short, explosions are a very real risk, however I don't think my setup is any more dangerous than the next person's. I've mitigated the risk of sparks from fuses and fuse blocks, using 'ignition protected' fuses or fuse holders. I do have 2x more batteries than some though... but ventilation happens when the lid is lifted off the battery box in any case.

Having a massive bank under charge would lead to some H2 gas generation, however this would be exasperated under an overcharge situation.

[cuppabillytea]

Thanks for the paper Mitch. You have successfully allayed my fears.
Cheers, Billy.

[Toxic_Avenger]

1 CB Radio Speaker with a massive long cord... $0.00 (supplied with the vehicle)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102165&stc=1&d=1448084593


15 minutes of disassembly, de-soldering, cutting wires and tinning them... $0.00 (plus some consumables I already had)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102166&stc=1&d=1448084593


Attaching it all back together with new soldered connections, and feeling pretty darn good about a cheap and useful fix for the problem... $0.00
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102167&stc=1&d=1448084593


Having to re-do it all because I forgot to pass the wire thru the rear case BEFORE I soldered it all up... Priceless. :mad:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102168&stc=1&d=1448084593

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102169&stc=1&d=1448084593

I always seem to get into 'the zone' with these simple kind of repairs / mods.
Usually I'm not 100% focused on what I'm doing and always seem to forget something like this. Be it the order it needs to be assembled, or putting heat shrink onto a wire before soldering.
But nevertheless, a worthy way of spending a hot afternoon with a cold beer.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Also had a "Derp!" moment when I installed the Hi-Lift jack mount and shovel holder on the roof rack this afternoon.

I bought a totally bodacious fiskars shovel from bunnings, as it was all steel construction, and the colour was almost an exact match for Orkney Grey! (hard to tell in the below pic).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/317.jpg

I did my research before on the max handle diameter what would fit in the holder, and measured it up before purchase...

But I neglected to measure BOTH holes on the Kaymar carrier... the front bracket hole diamater is about 3mm too small!

So looks like the holder will soon have a hot date with a plasma cutter :twisted:

[Toxic_Avenger]

Today some mates and I had a day trip to Warrabah NP.

The park is approx 40 minutes out of Manilla NSW, or about 1.5hrs from Tamworth. Nice national park with some nice swimming holes and some decent facilities.


Departed from Tamworth approx 10am, shot up to Bendemeer, then west on the Halls Creek Rd. The long, but scenic route.
Map link >>Here<< (https://goo.gl/maps/n94Xqdt4G5E2)

On the way notable moments were:
Horse on the road
Getting a hektic drift on a dirt road on a steep section, right near a cliff :eek:
This chap on a floodway (followed shortly after by 2 wallabies jumping around)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102210&d=1448175071

Arrived at Warrabah around midday, to the Gum Hole camping area. Cooked a steak, drank a beer, and had a swim.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/286.jpg

Spotted this bloke rustling about our stuff after a swim, looked like a lace monitor (at base of tree, in shadow).
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102212&d=1448175071

Gratuitous landy shot:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102213&d=1448175071

[Toxic_Avenger]

So the Kaymar shovel / Hi Lift bracket I bought was too small for the shovel I have.
The plan was to plasma cut it at work, but Id need to get a good earth on it (grind off powder coated finish), and set the machine up, so I opted for a carbide bur on the dremel, and a small 80 grit flap wheel on the same device for clean up.
I forgot how much I missed the dremel- it took a 'holiday' in my old man's shed for the last 8 years. I had forgot where it was, and he dropped the ball saying 'it's the best tool I never bought'.
Rookie mistake ;)

Ground the hole in the bracket out to an egg shaped oval of about 44x38mm. The shovel handle is a weird ergo egg-shape, and turns out to be a solid fit in the bracket.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102312&stc=1&d=1448360088

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102313&stc=1&d=1448360088

[DieselDan]

Just read through this thread, awesome work Mitch!
Must get around to sorting out dual batteries in mine sometime soon, will pinch lots of your ideas :D

I have one comment however..... you had soda with 15yr old scotch :eek:
What's wrong with you man!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Just read through this thread, awesome work Mitch!
Must get around to sorting out dual batteries in mine sometime soon, will pinch lots of your ideas :D

I have one comment however..... you had soda with 15yr old scotch :eek:
What's wrong with you man!

I'm a bloke of impeccable taste, what else can I say?

I usually have it on the rocks, or neat, but I'm partial to a mixed drink. At least it wasn't with coke amiright?!

[DieselDan]

I'm a bloke of impeccable taste, what else can I say?

I usually have it on the rocks, or neat, but I'm partial to a mixed drink. At least it wasn't with coke amiright?!

Ha ha.
Yup you're right!


Sent from my Nexus 5X using AULRO mobile app

[maxthomas]

Very good thread, i'll keep following this

[cuppabillytea]

Hmmmm....Nup. Neat or nothing. I use Scotch to seer the steaks on the Barby. It's Irish for me.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Duly noted.

Thanks to everyone following along at home, I do realize I post some trivial junk sometimes, and do go on a bit of a tech rant about some of the things I have done/in the process of doing, but I'm sure it's all in the spirit of it all.
The 'vibe' I like to call it.


Today, I pulled the centre dash panel off to suss out the space behind the side panels on the puma dash. I asked the question here, (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/228455-puma-dash-side-panels-switch-mounting-depth.html) and took the advice to remove the centre panel and have a look-see.

For anyone interested, there is a usable (relatively flat) space of 100mm x 200mm on each side panel.
Behind the side panel, there is enough room to stick a fist in there (yes, that's a technical unit of measure, just like an imperial ass-tonne), so for most reasonable space requirements for switchgear / electrical gadgets, there should be no issues making them fit in that space with the area behind this panel.

[cuppabillytea]

Thanks for saving me the trouble Mitch.

[Toxic_Avenger]

The melting mudflap on the 90 is not a new issue.

There have been some interesting fixes by others, and I thought I'd have a crack at my own solution to the problem.

It all starts with a new set of mudflaps- the issue is with the LHS flap where the exhaust on the 90 protrudes through the opening.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102498&stc=1&d=1448867172


I Started by making a tracing of the mud flap, and locating the cutout. From here a template was made. The large radius was made with a 7" grinding wheel, as I didn't have anything else that was suitable. I tried to maintain a 20mm width on the bottom portion.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102499&d=1448867026


This was transferred to some thin 1.6ish stainless steel, and plasma cut. With plasma, you can stack cut material, which helps to get some consistency between work pieces. I cut 2 copies of the template, then clamped together and used a grinding disk to get to the final dimensions.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102500&d=1448867026


The mud flap is approx 10mm thick. I plan to fill the cavity with some heat resistant material (sort of like a fire blanket), to prevent the heat from affecting the rubber underneath.
I cut 2 strips of the same stainless material at approx 12mm width to make the top section. These were bent to the final profile in 2 pieces (I was constrained to the length of the scrap stainless I used, so had to wled together).
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102501&d=1448867026

[Toxic_Avenger]

...After a number of hours practicing my DC lift-arc stainless TIG welding skillz (or lack thereof), I came up with this:


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

My TIG is rather appallilng, and admittedly there was a lot of grinding and re-welding pin holes where I was walking the line between burning thru the thin material, and getting bugger all penetration.

Machine settings were:
DC TIG, 35A, No ramp up, 3 seconds post flow.
Argon gas, 10LPM flow.
2% thoriated (red tip) tungsten, balled tip.

I'm going to work out a way to mount it, and see what happens. It's fairly rigid in torsion, so should help prevent the mud flap from going into the exhaust flow in it's own right, but whether this is sufficient to withstand wind at 110km/h is yet to be seen.

I've still got some tweaking of the design, to make it fit properly in the opening of the fap. I did experience some warpage of the material despite my efforts not to put too much heat in one section.

Finish will most likely be some kind of sturdy black. Sadly my welding efforts mean that it wouldn't look 100% if polished up due to all the poor fit-up and porosity

[LRD414]

Mitch,

I am really enjoying your thread. I don't normally frequent this part of the forum much and generally feel well out of my depth, especially on all things electrical, so it's not to steal ideas for the D4. Although the 3M Super 33 tape, HVAC foil tape and electric conduit cable bends are going to feature somewhere, somehow. Anyway, I just like your approach, attention to detail and commitment to the scientific method (e.g. extreme ambient conditions testing of foil matt).

But what is the best element so far ..... obviously the colour-coded shovel.

All the best and keep it up,
Scott

[cuppabillytea]

Is it a Spear and Jackson Shovel?

[jon3950]

Is it a Spear and Jackson Shovel?

A number 3, but would you believe it has a bit broken off it....

[Toxic_Avenger]

Is it a Spear and Jackson Shovel?


A number 3, but would you believe it has a bit broken off it....

It's a Fiskars Post hole garden shovel. Ergonomic handle to prevent strain on sissy office workers like myself when digging myself out of a predicament!
I always lose the game at bunnings. Walk in for a pack of bolts or something, and end up buying more than i bargained for.

But it is a nice shovel. Apparently has a 25 year warranty? I bet they are counting on people losing their receipt before that long :p

[cuppabillytea]

It's a Fiskars Post hole garden shovel. Ergonomic handle to prevent strain on sissy office workers like myself when digging myself out of a predicament!
I always lose the game at bunnings. Walk in for a pack of bolts or something, and end up buying more than i bargained for.

But it is a nice shovel. Apparently has a 25 year warranty? I bet they are counting on people losing their receipt before that long :p
The Bar Code is good enough Mitch.
I'm not an Office Worker but I am a sissy. This is my shovel. I don't remember what brand it is. I don't like using shovels but I reckon, if you're going to get dirty you might as well get very dirty.
Any way enough if this silly stuff . Back to your build man.
Cheers, Billy.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I agree Billy- It's not the size, but how you use it! :o

Nothing has happened since my foray into welding earlier this week. Going bush this weekend, but just camping and no serious 4 wheeling.

[carlschmid2002]

A good shovel is one of the best pieces of recovery equipment you can own. Trust me, I once had to dig myself out with my bare hands.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I had heard the same thing Carl. I hope I don't have to use it, but its reassuring to know I have it available if needed.
I am however a little concerned with how easy it would be for a crook to steal the shovel and Hi-Lift jack off the roof rack bracket.
Or even worse, use it to gain entry to the vehicle to either steal items, or the vehicle proper.
I'd love to leave the equipment on there full time, but not sure if this is a valid risk?
Interested to know how others have approached this problem (padlocks, security nuts, etc)

[MrLandy]

This probably isn't all that helpful in a 90 thread, but I fit my highlift jack, shovel and axe all under the rear passenger seat. Perfect fit, out of the way and easy to get to. I think it's best to keep all equipment on the inside of the vehicle. On the outside, it's dangerous and can be stolen.

[kogvos]

Rear seat? That's fancy talk.

I use bike locks to secure my most valuable assets on the roof rack. The shovel isn't one of them. I figure it's safe(ish).

[carlschmid2002]

I have never secured a shovel with a lock. Most High-lift brackets have a way of locking them on. I don't lock it on my D3with the Kaymar rack. I just do the nuts up real tight. I figure the chances of someone wondering around with a 7/8 spanner (in fact you need two of them) to get it off is not very likely. I do park on a secure base everyday though and it is in a garage at night. When I have locked things like this on the car I can never find the key when I need it. I have learned to carry a master key (bolt cutters) in my on board tool kit. They can come in handy when some fool puts padlocks on gates that shouldn't be trying to be funny.

[cuppabillytea]

This probably isn't all that helpful in a 90 thread, but I fit my highlift jack, shovel and axe all under the rear passenger seat. Perfect fit, out of the way and easy to get to. I think it's best to keep all equipment on the inside of the vehicle. On the outside, it's dangerous and can be stolen.
I've been doing that but it damages the finishs inside. :(

[MrLandy]

'Damages the finishes', 'fancy talk', I don't know what to do! 🙃 If fancy is having a back seat to put my tools under I guess my Landy is a fancy bush truck then 👍 ...PS: No such thing as damaged finishes on a Landy, only patina 😎

[Toxic_Avenger]

Good thinking chaps!

Just got back from an overnighter- same place I was last weekend.
Had a nice camp oven stew for tea, a few bevvies with mates... until a pack of blokes rocked up in the late evening and asked me to move my 'jeep' out of my camp spot because there were 'lots of them' and 'they always camp there'.

I think some people didn't get the memo about the bro-code of the bush- namely dount be a douche-bag and annoy others who go to the bush to relax and get some peace and quiet.

On a different note, went for a stroll along the Namoi river (upstream from Warrabah), spotted a heap of wildlife, including skinks, bearded dragons, wallabies, wild goats, carp, yellow belly, and a red belly black snake (which I almost stepped on 2.5km away from camp).

[MrLandy]

'Campsite ownership' is very uncool.

[cuppabillytea]

I hope you stayed put Mitch.
Cheers, Billy.

[cuppabillytea]

'Damages the finishes', 'fancy talk', I don't know what to do! 🙃 If fancy is having a back seat to put my tools under I guess my Landy is a fancy bush truck then 👍 ...PS: No such thing as damaged finishes on a Landy, only patina 😎
I knew I'd cop that. :p

[MrLandy]

I knew I'd cop that. :p

He he glad you liked it :p

[Toxic_Avenger]

Had a bit of a run-about day today. But I did get to spend some quality time with the Landy. It was one of those days that started with an idea, and progressed into a wild goose-chase finding what I thought I needed, and finding it after a protracted trip around town.

Picked up an ammo box from the disposal store. I've been looking for something to hold some tools in the rear of the vehicle, and this will work nicely. Previously the tools I had in the vehicle were under the driver's seat, but this was getting cramped, and I found most stuff was just being stored in the load space, as I was too lazy to pack it all away correctly once I had finished with it. Removed the stickers with a heat gun, gave it a scrub and wiped over with some wd40 to get the rest of the sticky crap off. I was pleasantly surprised with how well it scrubbed up.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102716&d=1449394762

This will fit nicely behind the passenger seat in the channel below the cross brace bar, and between the wheel arch, and the seat back. It is easily held in place with the seat back.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102717&d=1449394762

Finally mounted the hi-lift / shovel holder, after giving the parts that got the die-grinder treatment a lick of cold gal paint and some Orkney grey from a touch up paint bottle I had. The paint is not a perfect match to the Kaymar bracket colour, but for a bloke of my artistic persuasion, it's close enough, and I'm not too bothered :p It's only on the inside surface of the shovel handle, so give a bloke a break eh?!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102719&d=1449394762

Took a second trip to bunnings to get a padlock for the jack. I know they are cheap and not really a huge target for theft, and I'm probably just being paranoid, but I'd rather be certain that it's secure, and not used to bust thru the windscreen when I'm not around. Bonus points for more matching grey parts!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102720&d=1449394762

There is a bit of buggerizing about to get the lock on (involves removing the handle to lift the bar up enought to get the lock in), but looks good enough IMO. With a few strategically placed cable ties, it's almost rattle free! I'll also consider a neoprene sleeve for it some time down the track, as a seized/rusty Hi-lift is more of a death trap than a good one... which is still pretty dangerous!
I am also looking to order some shear nuts for the U bolts that attach the bracket to the roof rack. This will mean that I'll need to cut the U bolts to get the bracket off, as would anyone else :twisted:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/804.jpg

I also made a contraption for helping to secure a tarp to the roof rack as a makeshift awning.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102718&d=1449394762
I'll get around to a proper awning one day, but until then, a tarp and some guy lines will be more than suitable.
Just a caribiner clip and some paracord- can be clipped on, or looped thru, the tarp, and tied off to achieve whatever crazy tarp contraption I come up with.
Paired with these,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/805.jpg
I'll be able to cobble together some interesting setups, which should be good over the coming months. I'll get some pics of it all set up some time.

Going to Bretti Reserve near Gloucester this weekend, so will get to put it to the test, and report back!

[Pickles2]

...After a number of hours practicing my DC lift-arc stainless TIG welding skillz (or lack thereof), I came up with this:


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102502&d=1448867779

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102503&d=1448867779

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102504&d=1448867779

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102506&d=1448867779

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102505&d=1448867779

My TIG is rather appallilng, and admittedly there was a lot of grinding and re-welding pin holes where I was walking the line between burning thru the thin material, and getting bugger all penetration.

Machine settings were:
DC TIG, 35A, No ramp up, 3 seconds post flow.
Argon gas, 10LPM flow.
2% thoriated (red tip) tungsten, balled tip.

I'm going to work out a way to mount it, and see what happens. It's fairly rigid in torsion, so should help prevent the mud flap from going into the exhaust flow in it's own right, but whether this is sufficient to withstand wind at 110km/h is yet to be seen.

I've still got some tweaking of the design, to make it fit properly in the opening of the fap. I did experience some warpage of the material despite my efforts not to put too much heat in one section.

Finish will most likely be some kind of sturdy black. Sadly my welding efforts mean that it wouldn't look 100% if polished up due to all the poor fit-up and porosity
G'Day Mitch, Just read your thread from start to finish,...Very interesting indeed, and you are a very clever man!
The "Melting Mudflap"!!!.....Your "fabrication looks EXCELLENT. I was wondering that if any part of these were in the path of the hot exhaust gases, then they would heat up & melt the rubber?....So, did you ever fit them, and if you did, how did you attach them?
Thanks, Pickles.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Hi Pickles,
The saying goies- "a grinder and paint, makes me the welder I ain't". :p

The theory is that the steel will be a buffer layer for the rubber, and have some thermal mass to keep the overall temps low. I do plan to pack the gap with fibreglass cloth like a fire blanket type material to stop the heat transfer by conduction from one material to the other.

There would only be a small section of the metal that is in the exhaust path at full flex of the flap, and the wind would theoretically cool the remainder of the metal and reduce the overall temps, but to be honest, it's still just a thought exercise as I have not fitted it yet! I was doing some clean-up of the part and put a big crack in it where the metal was a bit thin. So back to the welder when I can be bothered to fill the crack in and get it fitted.

I'll probably use a small screw or something from behind, and try to keep it as subtle as possible.

I really do like the flat plate idea that Shatkins had in this post (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/175664-melting-mudflap.html#post2440361).

Shatkin Spec bracket
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

This is probably a more suitable solution to my problem, because a) I ultimately want a mudflap I can remove when off-roading, and b), melted flaps are not cool, and the problem is do to the materials used in the mudflap, and the flex that this material has.
My Mudflap death count is 2 torn off while offroad, and 1 melted rear flap, so it's becoming an expensive problem to have, at $300 per replacement set.

[Pickles2]

Hi Pickles,
The saying goies- "a grinder and paint, makes me the welder I ain't". :p

The theory is that the steel will be a buffer layer for the rubber, and have some thermal mass to keep the overall temps low. I do plan to pack the gap with fibreglass cloth like a fire blanket type material to stop the heat transfer by conduction from one material to the other.

There would only be a small section of the metal that is in the exhaust path at full flex of the flap, and the wind would theoretically cool the remainder of the metal and reduce the overall temps, but to be honest, it's still just a thought exercise as I have not fitted it yet! I was doing some clean-up of the part and put a big crack in it where the metal was a bit thin. So back to the welder when I can be bothered to fill the crack in and get it fitted.

I'll probably use a small screw or something from behind, and try to keep it as subtle as possible.

I really do like the flat plate idea that Shatkins had in this post (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/175664-melting-mudflap.html#post2440361).

Shatkin Spec bracket
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102760&stc=1&d=1449471918

This is probably a more suitable solution to my problem, because a) I ultimately want a mudflap I can remove when off-roading, and b), melted flaps are not cool, and the problem is do to the materials used in the mudflap, and the flex that this material has.
My Mudflap death count is 2 torn off while offroad, and 1 melted rear flap, so it's becoming an expensive problem to have, at $300 per replacement set.
Thanks.
I've seen the steel solution, I don't know whether it's fitted yet, but mudflaps should "give",...if that one fouled anything, or even if there was no "give" in the wind/slipstream, something/mounts would be under pressure/ could break?
All food for thought!!..Pickles.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Thanks.
I've seen the steel solution, I don't know whether it's fitted yet, but mudflaps should "give",...if that one fouled anything, or even if there was no "give" in the wind/slipstream, something/mounts would be under pressure/ could break?
All food for thought!!..Pickles.

I know some people with some very big breaks who could bend some very thick steel! Between that and a CNC plasma, the rear crossmember would rip off before the bracket would bend.
Problem would be the poxy nutserts which hold it all together!

For the scientific method, I wonder how much force is put on a mudflap at say 100km/h?
And how this would relate to the torque on the 3xM6 bolts which hold the mudflap bracket on?
Might be a question to research. I do like to get nerdy...

[numpty]

I do like to get nerdy...

You do?:o

[Toxic_Avenger]

That's correct.
Believe it or not!

[Toxic_Avenger]

For the scientific method, I wonder how much force is put on a mudflap at say 100km/h?
And how this would relate to the torque on the 3xM6 bolts which hold the mudflap bracket on?
Might be a question to research. I do like to get nerdy...

So... down the rabbit hole I went.
Cocktail napkin calculations, and some fudge factor for good measure (engineers, cover your ears!):

The mud flap
1) Wind speed @ 100km/h = 27.778m/s
2) Wind load on a surface at this speed is approx 0.67kN/m^2 [source] (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wind-load-d_1775.html).
3) Approx area of the whole mud flap (assuming it is rigid, and cannot flex at all - imagine a full length bracket as pictured a few posts above) is 1295cm^2. Let's call it 1300cm^2 or 0.13m^2
4) 0.67kN*0.13m^2 = 0.0871kN
5) Rule of thumb to approximately convert kilo Newtons ton Kilograms of force is to multiply the kilonewton value by a factor of 100 [source] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton_%28unit%29)
6) Therefore a rigid mudflap, in rough terms, is exposed to approx 8.1kg force at 100km/h (assuming full wind force is seen!).

So I hope the math is correct!

I didn't get too much info on the bracket, and what its limitations might be, but probably safe to assume that it's up to standard. The bracket, being a piece of thin bent sheet steel, with no other bracing, would experience some interesting loads as it acts like a first class lever on the bent edge against the crossmember, and puts the M6 bolts under tension as the mud flap is bent towards the rear of the vehicle. The steel bracket would surely have to bend before the M6 bolts were stripped or fail due to being under tension, but this is just a thought.

TL;DR, I think a flat plate style mud flap brace is not going to cause too much issues at highway speeds. This might be a different story under other forces like water, but even so, I think the limiting factors might be the bracket (or the material of the flat stiffening piece) rather than the attachments to the crossmember.

[cuppabillytea]

Why not just swap the bracket for a hinge?

[MrLandy]

Does this help?
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR-KV-osVgAqabLf5zgO5oBVitB4o6XLAOpwvVmEJ8USt-pD93pEVB2k8xr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/780.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

Nice!
The 90 needs moar LSX and twin race pipes for the ladies.

[Pickles2]

So... down the rabbit hole I went.
Cocktail napkin calculations, and some fudge factor for good measure (engineers, cover your ears!):

The mud flap
1) Wind speed @ 100km/h = 27.778m/s
2) Wind load on a surface at this speed is approx 0.67kN/m^2 [source] (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wind-load-d_1775.html).
3) Approx area of the whole mud flap (assuming it is rigid, and cannot flex at all - imagine a full length bracket as pictured a few posts above) is 1295cm^2. Let's call it 1300cm^2 or 0.13m^2
4) 0.67kN*0.13m^2 = 0.0871kN
5) Rule of thumb to approximately convert kilo Newtons ton Kilograms of force is to multiply the kilonewton value by a factor of 100 [source] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton_%28unit%29)
6) Therefore a rigid mudflap, in rough terms, is exposed to approx 8.1kg force at 100km/h (assuming full wind force is seen!).

So I hope the math is correct!

I didn't get too much info on the bracket, and what its limitations might be, but probably safe to assume that it's up to standard. The bracket, being a piece of thin bent sheet steel, with no other bracing, would experience some interesting loads as it acts like a first class lever on the bent edge against the crossmember, and puts the M6 bolts under tension as the mud flap is bent towards the rear of the vehicle. The steel bracket would surely have to bend before the M6 bolts were stripped or fail due to being under tension, but this is just a thought.

TL;DR, I think a flat plate style mud flap brace is not going to cause too much issues at highway speeds. This might be a different story under other forces like water, but even so, I think the limiting factors might be the bracket (or the material of the flat stiffening piece) rather than the attachments to the crossmember.
Awesome,....I think we agree with each other.
Pickles.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Weekend at Bretti Reserve, Bretti NSW

Had a nice overnighter with the family at Bretti, just north of Gloucester NSW on the Thunderbolts way. It was my mother's birthday earlier in the week, so what better opportunity to rustle the family together for some campfires and kumbaya singing*

Loaded and ready to go: riverside at Dungowan, on the Peel River
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102980&stc=1&d=1449981909

Ready to ascend the Port Stephens Curtting, Ogunbil
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102981&stc=1&d=1449981909
(PS this road is great fun in a fast car)

From here headed up Topdale rd, then hung a right to head south on the Thunderbolts way. Picked up some firewood along the way and hitched it to the roof of the landy. Spotted some apple trees growing wild next to a river, so might come back to raid it in a few weeks time and make a massive apple pie. Hunter/gatherer FTW.

I descended the range just north of Bretti, on the Thunderbolts way, and was following behind a very slow Iveco Daily whose brakes smelled like they were about to let go. I love the smell of DOT3 boiling in the morning.
This particular road has a section which is a 12% grade, and only 1 safety ramp! In other words, rather steep for the average punter who is willing to find the limit of their breaks. There is a few interesting vehicle shaped gaps in the armco railings, and flowers on the side of the road. :(

So the landy chugged down the hill no worries, was switching between 2nd and 3rd, and using the breaks only when needed.

Rocked up the the Bretti Reserve at about midday Sat, setup camp.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102982&stc=1&d=1449981909
The makeshift awning worked well, Zip ties to keep it on the roof rack, ratchet straps to pull out the corners (attached to the picnic table roof), and some caribiners and a zig-zag of paracord to tension the middle, cinched off with a constrictor knot to tension it all up. The weather was rather windy, but the awning was rock solid.

Cooked a mad feed of steaks and a vegetable/bacon stew in my brother's $1 op-shop enamel/cast iron casserole dish.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102983&stc=1&d=1449981909

He even had a go at making a spoon out of some wood we found. Burnt the depression into it with hot coals etc.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102984&stc=1&d=1449981909

EDIT: Extra Pic - Click for high res.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/586.jpg

*(actually I lie. There was no kumbaya singing, instead, there was plenty of swimming, eating and drinking)

[cuppabillytea]

I went across the top of Thunderbolts Way in an EL Falcon wagon with my Mum. She was 80. The speed was 160 Ks. She said "This is nice isn't it?". So yes, it is good done fast.
Could you please give me your opinion on my question in post 186 of this thread?

[Toxic_Avenger]

After the festivities from the night before, it turned out to be a nice day with minimal wind and clear skies.
Cue epic camp breakfast! The campfire was stoked, and the cast iron hitn the coals. There were sausages, bacon, beans, toast and the leftovers stew from the night before which was mized with eggs to make a shakshouka hybrid concoction which tasted pretty damn good.

My Coleman dual fuel burner I have was pitted against my old man's kelly kettle stove, with the 1.5L water boiling challenge.
The stakes were high.
The stage was set...
And my little coleman burner won!
The stovetop espresso maker was also used, and did a great job of keeping the caffiene up to everyone.


After breaking camp and a quick swim to cool down, it was time to head back, but not before getting a happy snap of this poor old landy which was parked up in the long grass near the reserve. To all those abandoned landies out there, I salute you.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102995&d=1449989674

We left our mark at the camp site- a Cairn of rocks supporting a hand carved staff adorned with a vertrebrae from an unknown animal, wrapped in twine and festooned with feathers my brother found. Why not I guess. :confused:
Other than that, we left the place clean, unlike half the other travellers who left their rubbish in their fires, and cans and bottles everywhere. I'm sure someone will scratch their head trying to work out why someone left a staff with a bone on it at their camp. Pagan sacrifice perhaps?!


The drive home was somewhat uneventful, however I was on the lookout for trackt to take the landy down. I managed to take a quick detour via Baxters Ridge Trail, just south of the Carson's Pioneer Lookout on the thunderbolts way.
It was a very scenic dense natural forest, well kept roads.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102986&stc=1&d=1449985665

Suddenly, a wild roadblock appears!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102987&stc=1&d=1449985665
You use hatchet, and loese 57HP.

You use low range, and a little bit of the loud pedal...it is highly effective.
You gain +10 experience.

Jokes aside, this part of the state would be worth an explore in the future.
There is a LOT of bush out this way, plenty of state forests, and I reckon with enough time up your sleeve, there would be lots of forest to see and places to roll out the swag. Along the Barnard, Nowendoc or Manning Rivers.

So all in all, it was a good time. I'd recommend all of you lot who have landies in the shed collecing spiders, to get out there and use them! You won't regret it!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Why not just swap the bracket for a hinge?

This would work, but I'd think it might be a bit too flexible.
1) It would probably increase the number of times the mudflap passes thru the exhaust path, and at a lower speed (this would negate the function of the mud flap too)
2) The bracket (where it bends) is angled, so it would cock the mudflaps to the inside when it bends - might look silly?
3) Still susceptible to being plucked off on a rock- and maybe even moreso than the stock design due to increased flexibility?

That's all just my initial thoughts, but I'm always keen for someone to give it a crack, and report their findings!

[numpty]

Nice one Mitch.

Baxters Ridge I think is the track which leads down to Barrakee Nat Pk, and there's good camping on the Nowendoc there.

Lauraine and I tried to get to the Falls via the River a couple of years ago, but the River was up then. Must go back and try again.

Perry

[Toxic_Avenger]

I'm sure it would get you in the general vacinity, if not head east on Reserve rd, further north along the thunderbolts way.
I've been studying the google maps, but it's tricky as the adventure you set out to do can be cut really short by a locked gate somewhere or misrepresented info on the satellite image. And the topo maps you get are often no better (if not outdated).

[numpty]

And from Nat Pks, on one of the tracks on the nth east near the falls, there is a rather recalcitrant resident who will refuse entry even though it's public access. I was advised to not go there

[Toxic_Avenger]

Some light reading for those who are so inclined.

Inclosed Land protection act (http://www.legislation.nsw.gov.au/inforcepdf/1901-33.pdf?id=03ed2a9d-e3a9-e562-ac16-cd2aa066614e)

[Toxic_Avenger]

And now for something completely different:

SIX Maps (http://maps.six.nsw.gov.au/)

Download the browser app, and you get topo maps and sattellite imagery in one page. Can even narow down to property boundaries etc if needed.

[Toxic_Avenger]

It has started...
Spent a couple of hours this afternoon in the fading sunlight doing some soldering...
...extending the rear tail light wiring
...more details in the next installment.

Stay tuned!

[Toxic_Avenger]

FYI I am not making a 'stretch' 90. :p

[filcar]

FYI I am not making a 'stretch' 90. :p
Maybe a Rijidij rear wheel and jerry can holder?
I have one to fit and it involves extending the rear light wiring.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Maybe a Rijidij rear wheel and jerry can holder?
I have one to fit and it involves extending the rear light wiring.

BINGO!
You win >9000 internets!

Yesterday I did the wiring and disassembly of the interior trim to get at the rear of the lights. Also had to remove my rear LR genuine roof access ladder (which pains me, as I love it). I'll need to downgrade to a front runner half length unit to maintain roof access, or just use the jerry can mount and the spare as a ghetto-ladder :p

This afternoon, I removed the chassis bolts, and mounted up the bar, and torqued it down. Sika'd up the light covers too. I opted to use the Sika brand clear auto sealant, as the black stuff would probably show up too much where it oozes out the side when the light covers are clamped down.

So all in all, I've sunk maybe 5 hours into it, and probably 70% done. Just need to wire up the tail lights, mount them and sika the sockets in, then mount the swing away units. I've opted to solder and heat shrink rather than use the supplied cable joiner crimps, mainly because I'm a glutton for punishment (soldering out-of-position in the vehicle), secondly, I already have the equipment, and thirdly, it's a far more electrically sound way of making a join.

Also, I don't know what it is with this land rover though, but It always seems that I need to use multiples of the spanners I don't have! Who has 2x 16mm spanners anyway?! And don't get me started on 9/16". Pfffft!


Obligatory pic to prove it happened.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103203&stc=1&d=1450433295

[filcar]

Sounds like the attention to detail you put into all your work.


I have the same access ladder and was thinking along the same lines of a shorter front runner type, then I thought I have a nephew that's a welder, I'll just shorten the one I have and get him to weld on a bracket at the correct level. The front runner (around $220) and others I have seen all clamp to the gutter at the top so I would have two holes up there to fill anyway and this way it won't cost anything


Murray's instruction are very comprehensive, has it all gone to plan? Probably won't get on to mine until after the silly season but nice to be prepared for any wrinkles...


Now what can I get for 9000 internets?

[Toxic_Avenger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/392.jpg

[LRD414]

So 9000 internets >> 1 dot matrix printer ?

[Toxic_Avenger]

So I thought I'd just need to plug the lights into the rijidij rear bar, sika it up and hang the carriers...
But how could I be so wrong. :o

I was looking at the mess of wires that come up into the cab, then poke back thru the same grommet they came thru, and thought "That'd be a good spot to run a cable for some power back here".
So I got cracking and made up another loom with some 7-core trailer cable, and a twin 6-gauge cable in a 16mm conduit. It runs alongside the existing LHS chassis cabling that supplies the tail lights, brake lights, demisters, trailer wiring etc.

One end goes into the battery box and will eventually hook up to the safety hub off a MIDI fuse, and the other end goes thru the existing hole behind the rear speakers. For now, it's just coiled wire that will sit idle until next time I have the batteries out. The old loom was picked apart, and the wires that were applicable to the tail lights were routed back down thru the jacking hole and into the rear bar.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103222&stc=1&d=1450514430

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103223&stc=1&d=1450514430

So now I have the potential to have power and switching in the rear panels of the vehicle- I'll probably put another fuse block there and try and integrate something like this into the panelling
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/363.jpg

After the wiring shennanigans were finished, I got back to the actual job of installing the rijidij gear.
Now Murray's instructions are top notch, but if there is a way to screw something up, I'll find it. In the process of making the wiring to my liking, I neglected to consider what wiring I'd need for the rear work light. At a future date, I'll need to pull a permanent 12V source from the rear power point, and also tap into the reversse light feed... which will inevitably involve me either breaking back into the sika'd rear light boxes, or undoing a significant portion of the loom I made :mad: No one said this land rover gig was going to be easy.

I probably have a few hours to go tomorrow, just need to plug in the rear RHS lights, screw them into the bar, and zip tie the cables for the work light and number plate lilght to the carriers so they are secure. Then I'll either drown my sorrows with hard liquor or man up and get the work light fixed. Most likely the former, as I'll need to get the measurements and dimensiond for the 12V feed in the rear.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Also, I seem to recall someone (loanranger I think?) mentioning that they had a hard time getting the dust cap on the tyre carrier.

I found a scrap of pipe which I put a very basic bevel on to match the bevel on the cap. 5 Whacks with the 4lb hammer and it was done. Gave it a spray of penetrating spray before the percussive maintenance, and all was good.

[AndyG]

Bait tank, now there's a mod I hadntconsidered :D

[Toxic_Avenger]

Bait tank, now there's a mod I hadntconsidered :D

That switch will be for the bilge pump.
You know... for when it rains.

[AndyG]

Given the volume of a 90 300gph with automatic float switch

[AndyG]

Given the volume of a 90 300gph with automatic float switch

[Toxic_Avenger]

So today I worked on wiring in the reverse light onto the rear bar.
The destruction manual requires the 3 wires to be attached to a vehicle earth, a vehiche 12V +, and 12V+ which poweres with the reverse switch.
"Easy" thought I. But no, I managed to mess it all up, didn't I.

The first task was to get the wiring to the LHS of the vehicle where the power and reverse light switch points are. Easy as- I soldered the supplied 3 core wire that is attached to the light post, to some funky orange 3-core wire I picked up from bunnings for like $2 per meter. Winning @ tightarsery. I then whacked this and some spare 7 core wire in some conduit, and fed it across the top of the rear crossmember to the area behind the LHS rear quarter. The plan was to feed this up into the vehicle, make the necessary terminations up there, and call it a day.
But No.
This involved undoing most of the conduit work I did yesterday. I needed to expose the factory loom, and locate the wire that goes to the reverse lamp.
The logical man like myself goes to the reverse lamp, disconnects it and looks at the colours of the wires coming in the back. I used the multimeter to test continuity of each pin in the plug - the black wire is earth, and this beeps when continuity is seen at a known earth - like the chassis.
"Good-o" says I. This must mean that the other wire is the 12v+ and lo and behold it showed 12.37V at the pin. That was the purple green wire.

So I hacked into the loom, and fished out that wire, and made a nick in it to test that I had continuity back to the plug on the lamp. It did.
Stupid me forgot to measure voltage at that point, and proceeded to solder in a splice to run to the light. I loosely attached everything, and went thru the motions of checking it out...
Middle position on the switch... permanently off. That works OK.
Top position On permanently. That works OK.
Bottom position, on with the reverse light.
On with the reverse light?
Houston... we have a problem.

I am actually red/green colourblind. Looks like I can add dyslexic and retarded to my resume.
I now have a rear work light which comes on when I indicate left.

:censored::censored::censored:

Back to the drawing board to find the right wire this time... I get to undo my wire loom for a 3rd time.

Joy.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/295.jpg

[alien]

Is it little late to let you know there is a reverse power wire on the right rear corner?
My trailer plug harness is connected to a multi plug in behind the fog lamp area of the main body harness.
I used the reverse feed from it to re-wire the fog light that also got a clear lens.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Is it little late to let you know there is a reverse power wire on the right rear corner?
My trailer plug harness is connected to a multi plug in behind the fog lamp area of the main body harness.
I used the reverse feed from it to re-wire the fog light that also got a clear lens.

Never too late!
I did read about that, but thought it was a 12V supply, and that it was removed in the later models. Might have got my wires crossed!

I poked around with the multimeter, on the 6 wire plug that is wrapped in foam tape, but had little luck finding the 12V i was looking for, but if one of them is reverse switched, that would make sense.

Any hints on what colour wire I might be looking for?

[alien]

Never too late!
I did read about that, but thought it was a 12V supply, and that it was removed in the later models. Might have got my wires crossed!

I poked around with the multimeter, on the 6 wire plug that is wrapped in foam tape, but had little luck finding the 12V i was looking for, but if one of them is reverse switched, that would make sense.

Any hints on what colour wire I might be looking for?

I had a quick look at the wire connectors on RAVE for the trailer plug.
Possibly GP, Green with a Purple trace for the reverse lights.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Back to the drawing board to find the right wire this time... I get to undo my wire loom for a 3rd time.


The white wire in the loom which runs thru the rear wheel well appears to be the right wire for the LHS rear reversing lamp.
Just need to splice the feed for the work lamp in, and then I'm good to go.

[loneranger]

To wire in the reversing/worklight on mine I pulled the reversing wire from the trailer plug and connected directly to that. I use the reversing connector on the trailer plug to run an ignition wire to the camper trailer.

From memory the reversing wire is purple.

[Toxic_Avenger]

So other than a few connections and tomfoolery yet to happen, the wiring for the rear is done.

Going to try and cram one of these in the back somewhere:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/237.jpg
Still not sure how I'll do the switching, but in any case, this will allow easy connections if needed. The 7-core wire that is run back to the front will allow some higher draw circuits to be switched with a relay if needed, or else the above unit is good for 100A total, or max 30A per circuit.


Wiring looms completed (LHS rear wheel arch- mud shield yet to be fitted)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103430&stc=1&d=1450869333


The cable entry behind LHS rear speaker
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103431&stc=1&d=1450869333


Happy festivus to one and all

[cuppabillytea]

Happy Festivus to you too.

[kogvos]

Bait tank, now there's a mod I hadntconsidered :D
Or wash down...

[Toxic_Avenger]

Thought for the day... at what weight should I start thinking about different suspension mods for a 90? I get the ever increasing idea that my 90 is getting fat and needs a diet.
Being conservative, I probably have an extra 300kg of accessories on it :o
Bullbar, winch, rear bar, roof rack, lights, shorkel, hi-lift, shovel, and an imperial ass-tonne of wiring that I've added into it. When I get the chance, I might run it over a weighbridge to see where it sits in full battle trim.


In other news, I've been feeding the landy some more parts. :eek:

Spent some time taking measurements behind the LHS rear speaker panel, and weighing up my options for switchgear back there. Today I crammed the fuse block in there to create a central wiring point for whatever I might need in the rear load space.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103718&stc=1&d=1451697890

The fuse block is a Baintech 12 slot unit that I got with the ex box, however I ended up using 2 of the 6 slot units for the ex box build. It was secured to the rear body panel with some Sika clear automotive silicone adhesive / sealant. Same stuff I used for the blanking plates for the rijidij rear bar. Somehow I don't think it's going to co-operate if I ever need to remove it from the cehicle :eek: That stuff is super strong!
For the record, this solution would also work for those who have factory rear light locations (ie no rijidij rear bar), as the fuse block just manages to miss all the rivets and other protrusions back there.

There are some spare wires coiled up for future use, if needed. 1 runs to the front battery box, and one to the RHS rear corner inside the rear bar (this will probably be diverted into the RHS rear load space). These are smaller wires, but would be perfect for the low current trigger circuit for switching a relay which will be fed straight from the fuse block.

It all fits behind the speaker panel Nicely, you'd never know it was there.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103719&stc=1&d=1451697890


One questions I need to ask the masses playing along at home:
How much room is there behind these panels?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103720&d=1451698321

I know the bottom of the window trim has the 'hips' of the vehicle, and there is some capping that holds the window panels to the tub. UI've felt around behind there as much as I can, but it feels like there are other brackets and tomfoolery going in behind there too...
I also understand there is a rear seatbelt reel hiding behind there somewhere that I'll need to contend with should I wish to install a panel mount switch or similar.
Does anyone have any 'naked' pics of this area without trim? :angel:

[Aguy]

I found this on the net, it's not the best picture but might help.
You might want to remove the trim, it's very easy.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103722&d=1451704303

[Toxic_Avenger]

Cheers for the Pic Aguy!
I hate working with plastic trim panels, it's like my kryptonite. I've broken so many tabs, clips and everything in the past, and whatever I work on never seems to go back together the same.
I pulled a dashboard once in a nissan 300zx, and installed a new wiring loom... Not only did I end up with a good handfull of nuts, bolts, and screws (I like to call this 'over-engineering' :p ) but the dash developed a heap of creaks and rattles, and the air con vents now blow thru the cracks in the ducting, not the vents :(

I looked at the whole window panel in the 90, and looked at how it covers the rear and front seatbelts, as well as everything else, and thought I'd consult the wisdom of others before breaking more trim panels! :eek:

[Toxic_Avenger]

So today I did just a small job- removing the terrible plastic scrivets that hold the rear speaker panel to the vehicle, and replacing them with some M6 aluminium riv nuts and some stainless fasteners.

The standard items look like this, and out of the 6 I removed, I managed to bugger 3 of them- the plastic thread (its more of a broad rounded spiral than a thread) can easily bind and snaps the head off the scrivet, if the phillips head part doesnt round off first :censored:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103796&stc=1&d=1451798972

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103797&stc=1&d=1451798972

So out came the old items- the scrivets and their plastic press-in securing grommets - and a M6 rivnut was installed. I picked up some 316 stainless M6 dome head screws to suit, and installed them with a coat of duralac to prevent any undue corrosion.

Finished result:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=103798&stc=1&d=1451798972

Depending onhow keen I want to get, I might seal the bottom of the riv-nut with some silicone to prevent any water and mud getting into the thread, or pick up some of those rubber hose blanking caps like thus
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/909.jpg

[RoverChris]

I just read through all 23 pages of this thread and wow, very impressed with all your mods even though I didn't understand half the things you said :confused: :) Your ingenuity and attention to detail is quite inspiring. keep it up

[Toxic_Avenger]

I had a few chequer plate accessories I've been sitting on for a while, uninstalled.
Thought today mgiht be a good time to get them fitted up for install.

Rear 1/4 panel chequer plate
I think I got these off ebay a year or so back, but had never got around to installing them.
Once I was more serious about fitting them, I came to the realization that they may interfere with the rijidij rear carrier.
Now that the carrier is fitted, I was able to eyeball the dimensions and make it work.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=104387&stc=1&d=1452998502

All that was needed was for the small wrap around sections to be lopped off with the grinder, leaving a small enough section to 'wrap' around the panel and meet with the rijidij bar.
A small piece also needed to be removed from the bottom edge, and possibly some more fine tuning with the file once I get the rivets removed and the piece fits squarely on the panel.



Fuel filler plate
I picked this up mid last year. It was one of those spur of the moment items which was somewhat cool, and was not going to add to the shipping costs of the order i was already placing. So what the hell, I thought. Everyone needs panel protection from dings from the odd mis-aimed fuel nozzel right?

Only problem is it didn't fit!

Turns out the item I'd bought was for an older model, and it appears the dimensions of the piece I had were not going to fit into the fuel filler recess that I have. Good news is it was easily able to be cut down to size to make it work.

The layout
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=104384&stc=1&d=1452998502

All cut up
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=104385&stc=1&d=1452998502

Test fit
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=104386&stc=1&d=1452998502

The dimensions if you are interested.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=104388&stc=1&d=1452998502

[Toxic_Avenger]

Forgot to mention...
With the fuel filler plate, it's a rather tight fit left to right, but the more astute amongst you may have noticed the gap at the top edge.

Due to the space needed to get the plate in there, it needs to go in vertical, and be pushed in on one side to get the other side of the plate into the cavity.

If one were to make a new plate themselves, you might be able to squeeze perhaps another 4mm of material in on the top side of the design before it starts to affect the ability to squeeze the piece into the fuel filler space.



Also interested to know if anyone has any tips on removing the fuel filler grommet?
It appears to be a metal filler spout pressed thru a rubber grommet which ideally, I'd like my chequer plate to squeeze underneath.

Any tips chaps?

[Toxic_Avenger]

Also cut the 2 plastic mudflap liner things that stop stones dinging the rear panel of the vehicle from the inside.

Cut to suit the new wiring

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=104394&stc=1&d=1453015246

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=104395&stc=1&d=1453015246

You can se the underside of the 2 riv nuts I installed for the rear interior panel, from a few posts up. Not too obtrusive. Will definately look into getting some caps to stop them filling with mud and crap.

Bonus pic!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=104400&stc=1&d=1453016285

[Toxic_Avenger]

Still haven't installed the new checker plate parts as above. :wheelchair:

Instead, I've been working on some other mods!

The rear Ladder I had was a OE land rover part, and was on the vehicle when I purchased it.
When the rear bar went on, it had to go, but on the other hand, I was left with a number of holes / riv nuts in the vehicle from the ladder that needed to be filled. I like the ladder to get onto the roof rack, so I opted to modify the OE item to suit my new needs.

With a few swift cuts, this...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105062&stc=1&d=1454205479

Became this...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105063&stc=1&d=1454205479


After some grinder surgery I was left with this.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105064&stc=1&d=1454205479


Ready for welding
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105065&stc=1&d=1454205479

After a few coats of paint, it is somewhat presentable (no pics yet).

I did however have a mishap with the plastic coating that land rover uses on these parts. Even though I was welding at as low a setting as I could, the very low melting point of the plastic caused some bubbling of the coating. I had to sand and repaint some sections, which is a relatively decent colour match, but still not as nice as the original finish.

This mod will allow me to utilize the existing top holes in the roofb gutter sill, and I will need to install 2 more approx M8 holes for the bottom mount in the body capping area of the tub. Need to decide on some fasteners for this, hopefully I can get a bolt with some kind of decorative head so that it is not too obtrusive as it's right at chest level on the back of the car, and needs to look a bit more presentable than just the plain hex head or tek-screw approach. Maybe some nice stainless security Torx screws or something :cool:


On another note,
I found some 8mm vacuum pipe blanking caps at supercheap. These were used to cap off the exposed riv nuts which were installed for the rear fuse block access panel / speaker panel. Safe from mud ingress now, so should stop any potential galling of the threads.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105066&stc=1&d=1454205479

[Toxic_Avenger]

My take on the melting mud-flap problem with the 90's was a two-fold problem.
Not only have I experienced the melting mud flap syndrome, but I do in fact also take this car offroad, and have fallen victim to 2 separate incidents where the mud flap was plucked off when it becomes pinched between the tyre and a rock. At approx $300 for a replacement pair, this would get tiring pretty quick, and my conveyor belt rubber home-jobs were starting to look a bit tired (I've avtually been rocking only 1 mudflap for 8 months now!)


So the idea was born that a 'quick release' mud flap arrangement was needed. My goal was to have a quick way to remove the mud flaps to prevent damage- either while on-road from melting (at the supposed >100km/h which cause melting), and while offroad.

The design is simple, using the existing, factory mounting points on the vehicle, which are M6 riv-nuts affixed to the rear crossmember. From here, studs would be drilled to accept a R-Clip (or cotter pin, if you were so inclined), and a wing nut would secure it all together. A section of rubber would provide some tension on the wing nut arrangement, and the R-clip hole would be spaced sufficiently to stop the wing nut backing off too far.


I initially wanted to get some M6 exhaust studs, as these would be an easy way to get a stud on the chassis to which to attach the flaps. But I didn't find these to be readily available, so I decided to manufacture something myself to make a weekend project.

I used 6 off 316 stainless M6x40mm bolts, and lopped off the heads
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105072&d=1454210871

From there, a Mild steel nut was threaded onto the stud, and a hole drilled thru the nut and Stainless bolt, to create a 2.5mm diameter hole for the R-clip.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105073&d=1454210871
Please don't judge me because of the size of my vise. It's little but it works well :p


The threads were cleaned up with a Die and thread file.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105075&d=1454210871

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105074&d=1454210871

I also chamfered the end of the stud to make lining up the wing nut a bit easier. This was done by chucking it up in the drill and running it against a smooth file. This allows the wing nut to be located in the right spot before you start turning it, I hate messing about trying to get a thread started in upside-down. out of position places. This idea was an absolute win.

A 8mm thick piece of rubber was then cut to make a gasket to match the size and hole spacing for the mud flap bracket. This puts pressure on the wing nut, similar to what a spring washer does, so should help to alleviate the wing nuts backing off under rough conditions.


I then set up a lock nut arrangement to determine a 20mm stud 'depth' for the vehicle side of the arrangement. This measurement allows the thickness of the rubber gasket, mud flap bracket, and wing nut to be closer to the location of the hole I drilled for the R-Clip. The stud was installed with loc-tite 243 thread lock sealant, and installed on the vehicle, ensuring that the holes in the bolts were aligned towards the sides of the vehicle for easy access and insertion of the R-clips.

Once the loctite was set, it was then an easy matter of installing the rubber gasket, spinning up the wing nut, and sliding in the R clip. It is very sturdy. It takes approx 15 seconds per side to remove a mud flap, so that's a win in my book.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/



I'm still undecided as to how I'll go with stopping the mud flap from bending into the hot exhaust gas. The little stainless trim piece I made is still up in the air... not sure whether I'll go this way or not. But something will be done eventually.

[Toxic_Avenger]

On 07.05.2014, I picked up a used 2012 defender 90 with 20,000km on it.

I've never been one to name my cars, but seems a few around here give them pet names as opposed to the usual 'The Land Rover' or 'The Holden/Ford/etc'. I'm thinking if I were to name the car, I'd call him Nug (a hybrid of Douglas, and Nugget. We'll see if the name sticks.


In my first post in this thread, quoted above, I mentioned I was unsure of a name for the defender, and that I wasn't really into naming my vehicles. It turns out that 'Nug' didn't stick...

The last few days had me thinking of the vehicle, and there was a consistent theme of a 'test mule' or a hard working, cobbled together and somewhat weird looking 'thing', and this fits in with my philosophy of what I'm doing with this vehicle... designing / testing / making / and developing my ideas and skills through the vehicle.

Meet my 90, El Burro.


El Burro is Spanish for 'the Donkey'
The donkey is a working animal in many parts of Latin America, and are often grey in colour, like my 90.
They are short, stumpy and look funny, like my 90
The offspring of a Donkey can be a mule. The vehicle is my 'test mule' for my ideas for vehicle modification.
Like my build, Mules are generally patient, sure-footed, and intelligent.
On the other hand, 'Burro' can be used as an insult when directed at another person, same as you'd call someone an ass.
Did I mention donkeys look funny, like my 90?


So yeah, lets see if it sticks!
Erin still calls it 'Sir Chug-alot'. :confused:

[RVR110]

Meet my 90, El BurroWe'll know that the name has stuck when a set of these appear...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/5.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

I was thinking more along the lines of a sticker.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105125&stc=1&d=1454238462

Or even just a silhouette of a donkey.

[cuppabillytea]

Be careful with Spanish names Mitch. " Pajero" is Spanish for a Pony. It's also Spanish for W****R

[Toxic_Avenger]

I was aware of the pajero meaning. Even the urban dictionary meaning of burro is relatively favourable (and that's coming from a site where everything has a crude double meaning!)

For the meaning relating to a donkey or mule, it's working for me! Even the 'fool' or 'ass' connotations aren't too unwelcome!

[debruiser]

I like "Sir Chug-a-lot" :D :wasntme:

El Burro sounds cool to me!

I agree with the naming thing, it's hard to pick a good one. My project S3, has gone through 4 or 5 to find one that sticks; still not sure I'm on the final one.

[defender_i_hardly_know_er]

What's "Bastard" in Spanish? That should be mine's name.

Move ya bastard I want to beat that car, change gear ya bastard, sun blinding me through the unblockable sun hatch again ya bastard, sorry what's that I can't hear you over the sound of the bastard.

[AndyG]

I like "Sir Chug-a-lot" :D :wasntme:

El Burro sounds cool to me!

I agree with the naming thing, it's hard to pick a good one. My project S3, has gone through 4 or 5 to find one that sticks; still not sure I'm on the final one.

I didn't realise you could change names, I thought it would be like a ship where you need a priest etc

[Toxic_Avenger]

What's "Bastard" in Spanish? That should be mine's name.


El Bastardo according to google translate!

[cuppabillytea]

I named my 110 after my favourite Kelpie. What if you name your 90 after your favourite Burro. Or..... given that it's a bit short, you could call it Burrito. :p

[debruiser]

I didn't realise you could change names, I thought it would be like a ship where you need a priest etc

It's not on the road yet, so it doesn't count? :confused::confused::confused:

[Marty90]

Hi Mitch,
Great idea with the mudflaps,do you leave the locknuts on or depend on the loctite only?If you leave the nuts on,are they on the mudflap side?Thanks in advance.

[Toxic_Avenger]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105080&stc=1&d=1454211992

Cheers Marty,
Loctite is spiteful stuff, I've still got the scars on my hand from where I punched the teeth of a flywheel ring gear trying to remove some flywheel bolts that were loctite'd in. I'm fairly confident the loctite will hold!

The lock nut arrangement was only used for installation. As it looks above, it's essentially just a M6 stud loctite'd into the existing riv-nuts which were installed at the factory. The lock nuts I used (ie 2 nuts on the stud screwed into each other) were mainly used by me to set the depth of the stud, and give me a hexagonal surface to wrench on.

If I'd had my time over, with a bit of messing about, it would not be too hard to sneak a M6 bolt thru the cross member from the inside... but the rear bar I have limits access in this way. Once the thread is in, you could easily use the 2 nut 'lock nut' trick to pull the bolt home from the other side (outside) of the cross member.

If I find that the wing nuts work loose over time, It would be easy for me to re-fit the standard fasteners by breaking the loc-tite loose, with a bit of heat, or simply replace the wing nuts with M6 nuts (nyloc or otherwise). Wing nuts have less thread surface than normal nuts, so working loose is a real possibility, hence why I put the R clip in, to prevent as much movement.

Hope that makes sense? Let me know if you need any more info!

[Toxic_Avenger]

Here I am back again to report some progress, albeit not as exciting as pervious posts... progress for the sake of progress, all a step in the right direction.


Since the quick release mudflap mod, I've revisited the old mudflaps I made out of 10mm scrap conveyor belt rubber while I was working out a 'better way' to deal with the inevitable demise of the new OEM set due to exhaust gas flow. I don't think I touched on their manufacture in this thread, but it was basically a 6 step process:
1) Acquire scrap rubber
2) Trace shape, cut out with knife
3) Bolt to existing bracket (bash back into shape with hammer if necessary)
4) Collect underpants
5) ???
6) Profit

They did the trick, but for the most part, I was rocking 1 mudflap because I was too lazy to fit the LHS one with the cut-out as it sat funny (curled up). The perils of second hand rubber...

Over the weekend I got cracking on a totally bodgy set of 'bush mudflaps' to go with my 'going out' mudflaps, which were on display in the post above.

The bush mudflaps are the same 10mm conveyor belt rubber, but I've added some aluminium flat bar (20mmx3mm flat) and some stainless hardware to bolt it together as a trim piece / stiffening brace.

Behold, in all its bodgy beauty.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105653&stc=1&d=1455430379

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105654&stc=1&d=1455430379

[Toxic_Avenger]

Also added a few more kays to the old landy today:

https://goo.gl/maps/iwzKVPEvDwn

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105681&stc=1&d=1455446784

Found a nice free camping reserve on the cockburn river about 3km south of Limbri NSW. This is roughly 15 minute drive out of Tamworth, which has limited free camping facilities. Might even consider a sneaky weekend trip out there one time.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Today's adventure started out as a solid plan, which soon turned pear-shaped. In a good way. :)

This morning, Erin, El Burro and I set off for Nundle NSW, with the state forest squarely in our sights. The plan was to head south of Tamworth via Dungowan, then head into the forest via Duncan's creek road, which I've never taken before. From there, the forest is a network of graded roads, pine forest logging tracks, and has everything you could want from Axle deep bog holes, to rocky hill climbs, off-piste driving (if that's your thing), and everything else in between.

So we left sunny Tamworth, and as it turns out, Erin needed some lunch, So we stopped for a bite to eat. El Burro needed a tank of diesel, so it was done. And after all that, we were on the other side of town, so we took the New England Highway highway south of Tamworth, and turned off towards Nundle via Lilndsay's Gap Road, just for something different... Which meant we missed Duncan's creek road. Objective point 1 missed. :mad:

Once in Nundle, Erin wanted a drink at the pub (Peel Inn, Nundle), and Who was I to disagree? So it was done... Schooner of light for the driver and a Cider for the navigator.

It was then that we commenced the ascent up the hill towards the Nundle State Forest, but Alas! We spotted a sign saying 'Abandoned Antimony Mine'. I've never seen an antimony mine before, I thought, so we pulled over and had a wander towards the mine shaft excavated into the hill. Out comes the torch and a short foray into the darkness, and that was crossed off the bucket list. On the way out we were both bitten by an angry wasp. WTF I don't even... :confused:

So after the comedy of delays and changes to the plan, we ended up at the edge of the forest, at Devil's Elbow:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/184.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/F2fZnSx.jpg)

This is the same area where I have a photo of me in the snow last July. There is a bit of elevation up here, up to 1200m, and it gets nice and cool in winter. Snow is not uncommon, but even in summer, it's always shady and a good 5 degrees cooler than the low lying peel valley.

We aired down, and commenced the rocky ascent up the track, which is a loose surface of rocks up to about 100mm diameter. Traction control kicks in on occasion, and while 2nd Low is fine for speed, I've found the anti-stall and low 1 to be just as effective as long as you pick the line with the most apparent traction. Right on one of the most steepest parts, Erin noticed some blackberry bushes beside the track. When we were safe to stop, we wandered over and had a pick around.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105965&stc=1&d=1456049882

From there, we met up with Cemetary road, and followed this back to the historic settlers cemetary.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105966&d=1456050050

We headed east along the Forest way, which heads towards Nowendoc, and was stopped shortly after by even more blackberry bushes calling Erin's name... All up we foraged about 3 Kg of blackberries. Sadly, my PPE wasn't up to par, and the thongs and shorts barely deflected the thorns, and I copped a few thorns to the shins and arms while picking. I found the best way was to use some pliers I had in the car to snap the twig off and pick the berries off the stem in a safer place. The only casulty was my favourite John Deere mesh hat which I used to carry the berries... the juice leaked all thru the hat and is now a pretty shade of pink :eek: I hope it's not terminal...

After getting back to the main road, I got talking to a group of 2 other 4wds who were heading into the forest to visit the abandoned mine. Never one to knock back an opportunity, I accepted their offer to tag along, and we spent a good hour walking along the hillside checking out out the mine shafts and remins of the gold rush that was in the area in the 1800's. Rumour has it that a old hermit by the name of 'Yankee' continued to live in the bush in the forest after the gold rush ended, and that he has a buried cache of gold sovereigns somewhere in the forest... Might go back to claim the riches another time ;)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/105967d1456050574-meet-my-90-share-adventure-20160221_160114.jpg
The old steam boiler that was used to driver the battery for crushing ore

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/105968d1456050574-meet-my-90-share-adventure-20160221_160629.jpg
The remains of one of the vent shafts, I'm shining the torch downn into this one... it was a sinkhole about 4m deep

After we finished, we headed back to tamworth with the spoils of an afternoon foraging, new mates, and a better understanding of the history of this little town, and the gold rush which has faded into the pine forest.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/105969d1456050574-meet-my-90-share-adventure-20160221_184419.jpg

After dinner we made a few jars of blackberry preserve, so looking forward to trying it iver the coming days!

Definately looking forward to the next trip 'up the hill'. It goes to show that sometimes you just need to get out and amongst it to have an adventure. It doesn't always come knocking on the front door...


Booze Revooz: Bundy Red, Dry and lime. Would probably taste better while punching on at the local, because bundy drinker. But I'd like to think the dry and lime makes it a little more sophisticated, while not adding too much homosexuality to the equation.

[Toxic_Avenger]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=106169&stc=1&d=1456478856
TOOL REVIEW

Deutsch Crimp tool and connectors

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=106170&stc=1&d=1456480889

Deutsch make some super high, OE quality connectors for a range of applications, but I'm mainly interested as a good way of creating my own weatherproof connections on and in the vehicle.

I've been after one of these for a while, and finally picked one up from an electrical wholesaler in town.
The crimp tool allows a 4-indent crimp on a copper barrel pin, of which there is male and female pins. These pins mate in the connector, and are an exceptionally robust join, and can even be specced to carry data with gold plated pins if need be.
Most automotive style connectors in the DT series connectors use the number 16 (16 gague) crimp tool, which in metric is up to about 2.52mm square CSA cable- ie your '15 amp' stuff from your favourite auto store. You can get tool that go from the small gauge up to the larger gauge pins, but they are prohibitively expensive- from 200-1500 bucks :o too rich for my blood...


For the consumables, the connectors are more expensive than the off the shelf 'narva' gear, but this can be weighed up against the range of connectors available to you. Due to the expensive nature of the connectors,
(anywhere from 10 bucks for the small 2-pin jobs, up to 200 bucks for the big 32 pin panel connectors), I've chosen to just buy as I need- they are readily available online or at larger auto stores.


My first project is to add a 3-pin connector to the rear work light to make it easily removed (I've got some ideas here :twisted: )
Secondly, I'll be looking into some panel mount connectors. Because race-car.


Installation of the solid pins is a little fiddly, likewise setting up the connector, as there is lots of little bits to fit together to make it all waterproof and awesome. Nevertheless, it's a great system, and should provide years of service. The connectors are also fully rebuildable (can buy pins / housings, plugs, wedge lock etc, as needed).

For anyone interested, you can find the product guide >>here<< (http://www.ionnic.com/videoproduct/index/download/id/147/)
There is also the option to run the connectors without the special tool and solid crimps, and use regular 'non insulated' style crimps instead.



Until next time,
"Be Excellent to each other"
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/88.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

Oh bugger... forgot tonight's Booze Rovooz!

A nice drop of Jack Daniels White label, with a dash 'o Diet dry ginger ale.
Oh so refreshing.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=106172&stc=1&d=1456484869

[debruiser]

[CENTER]

Deutsch make some super high, OE quality connectors for a range of applications, but I'm mainly interested as a good way of creating my own weatherproof connections on and in the vehicle.

I've been after one of these for a while, and finally picked one up from an electrical wholesaler in town.
The crimp tool allows a 4-indent crimp on a copper barrel pin, of which there is male and female pins. These pins mate in the connector, and are an exceptionally robust join, and can even be specced to carry data with gold plated pins if need be.
Most automotive style connectors in the DT series connectors use the number 16 (16 gague) crimp tool, which in metric is up to about 2.52mm square CSA cable- ie your '15 amp' stuff from your favourite auto store. You can get tool that go from the small gauge up to the larger gauge pins, but they are prohibitively expensive- from 200-1500 bucks :o too rich for my blood...

My first project is to add a 3-pin connector to the rear work light to make it easily removed (I've got some ideas here :twisted: )
Secondly, I'll be looking into some panel mount connectors. Because race-car.


Installation of the solid pins is a little fiddly, likewise setting up the connector, as there is lots of little bits to fit together to make it all waterproof and awesome. Nevertheless, it's a great system, and should provide years of service. The connectors are also fully rebuildable (can buy pins / housings, plugs, wedge lock etc, as needed).



I've been using these on my series III project, they are super awesome! I got the 'racing' version although in hindsight should have gotten the higher amp ones... o well just have to be careful where I use them. I got a kit from fleebay from memory roughly $250-280, came with a few 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 and 12 pin plugs plus tools etc. I agree very expensive and a bit fiddly to get the pins into place, but seem to be the ducks nuts. I also love the reusability of them, I had put a 3 pin somewhere, then decided I needed an extra wire, so rather than adding another plug, just removed the plug from the pins, and used a bigger plug, added the wire, and no1 will ever know I did it plus the original 3 pin plug goes back in the kit to be used somewhere else.

[Toxic_Avenger]

More foraging was on the cards today. As the saying goes 'If there's grass on the wicket, let's play cricket'. Or was it 'make hay while the sun shines'... either way there was hectares of blackberries with my name on them, so we went out picking.

The destination again was Nundle state forest. This time we left nice and early, and everything went to plan! We took the duncans creek road into the forest, and was stopped shortly out of the town on Woolomin by an apple tree festooned with ripe apples.
Turns out the defender roof rack makes for a nice picking platform! All up we got about 5kg of granny smith apples, destined to become apple sauce over the coming days.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=106306&d=1456661611

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=106307&d=1456661611

From there, we stopped on Hoads Farm road, within the nundle state forest, to pick some berries. All in all, we picked approx 8kg of berries in about 3 hours across a few different locations. Correct PPE was worn this time. Gumboots prevented thorns to the shins. Gloves prevented any spikes, and a pair of long nose pliers helped to reach the stems and snap them off and retrieve them from the brambles.

Half way there...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=106308&d=1456661611

On the way home there was a sneaky beer at the pub, and then the short trip back home to process the day's forage.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=106309&d=1456661611

We rinsed and sorted out the squished berries from the good ones. The good ones are packaged into snack size zip lock bags and frozen. The yield was 19 small bags (perfect for a few additions to cereal, or a nice smoothie). The remaining berries were processed into 2.5L of jam.

This was the final haul. I would cringe to know what the value of these berries would be at woolies in the frozen section... :o

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=106310&d=1456661611