Decisions. To fix blend motors or to buy

[Pete38]

Not sure what to do here.

I have had a Rh blend motor problem for a while as it was stuck on cold and the dreaded book emblem was on the display. Also Nanacom said it was the Rh blend motor. Wasn't a huge drama as when I needed heat I just turned the Rh vents off. But on a recent expedition off road the LH side is now blowing cold air only so not so great coming into winter. No error in the Nanacom for the LH side though but maybe that is hidden by the Rh error. Although I would have expected both to show.

So would you buy a set of Brit part blends motors for 120 pounds, buy a set of genuine for 210 pounds, or pull them both out and fix the pot or motors for cheap?

I will be ordering a driver's side windows regulator as I need one and also a crank angle sensor for peace of mind anyway.

Can you tell what is causing the faults before pulling the out? Resistance across two wires somewhere outside of the dash? I remember the blend motors both registering 20 percent cold on the Nanacom. Makes me think the motors died as if the pots failed they would show 0 percent or 100 percent maybe??

Can I drive around without the blend motors in if I can't fix them and need to wait for delivery from the UK? Using the no dash removal procedure that is. Obviously temperature might be a problem as I will get hot and cold blasting out from under the dash won't I?

[davidsonsm]

I did this 2-years ago and used genuine. For peace of mind, I reckon this is the way to go. It can be done in a day - less if you're confident. I don't reckon the car would be drivable as the intrument binnacle has to come out.

There's a fair bit of dash removal. I ended up removing the stereo head unit, the HVAC control unit, plus glove box etc. The biggest ball ache was cutting and repairing the ductwork - for the RHS from memory. The distribution (centre) one was relatively easy. The left one also, relatively easy.

Good luck.

[TheTree]

Hi

There are a couple of ways to do this, we managed to do ti without removing the dash itself, but lots of other stuff had to come off! Check rr.net for details

One side effect of the issue is the infamous RL7, I have surmised that leaving it in place with a blend motor short happening overheats the relay and eventually damages the fusebox.

I recently replaced my fusebox and my one year old RL7 was cooked :eek:

I reckon this is because of the excess current drawn when a blend motor shorts out. I drove for 6 months with a short before I replaced the motors.

So definitely check RL7, i recently purchased an 80amp relay for that spot because I think it will dissipate the heat better

Steve

[Pete38]

Cheers. Well the not so drivable part makes me steer towards buying new ones then.. And I tend to agree the extra cost of genuine might be worth it for the peace of mind of having less chance of removing them again for another few years anyway.

[p38arover]

I've replaced mine twice and it's due again.

I've never had to cut the ducting. It's actually quite flexible.

[TheTree]

Hi

My approx year old RL7 :eek:

Steve

[Hoges]

Not sure what to do here.

I have had a Rh blend motor problem for a while as it was stuck on cold and the dreaded book emblem was on the display. Also Nanacom said it was the Rh blend motor. Wasn't a huge drama as when I needed heat I just turned the Rh vents off. But on a recent expedition off road the LH side is now blowing cold air only so not so great coming into winter. No error in the Nanacom for the LH side though but maybe that is hidden by the Rh error. Although I would have expected both to show.

So would you buy a set of Brit part blends motors for 120 pounds, buy a set of genuine for 210 pounds, or pull them both out and fix the pot or motors for cheap?

I will be ordering a driver's side windows regulator as I need one and also a crank angle sensor for peace of mind anyway.

Can you tell what is causing the faults before pulling the out? Resistance across two wires somewhere outside of the dash? I remember the blend motors both registering 20 percent cold on the Nanacom. Makes me think the motors died as if the pots failed they would show 0 percent or 100 percent maybe??

Can I drive around without the blend motors in if I can't fix them and need to wait for delivery from the UK? Using the no dash removal procedure that is. Obviously temperature might be a problem as I will get hot and cold blasting out from under the dash won't I?

One of the reasons I suspect the motors fail is that as the plenum becomes warped due to heat, the flaps become hard to move and the motors are labouring under load. Some have had success relieving the stress on the flaps inserting a large self tapping screw into the heater box seam to open it up a bit (see rangerovers.net and I seem to recall Ron P38arover had some success at one stage with this fix) however the problem remains.

A heavy handed fix maybe to remove the heater box, dismantle it and skim the edges of the flaps to effect better clearance and hence less friction... Or the motors are under specified for the job...

Another job for when I get a "round tuit" !:angel:

[wayneg]

Another option is to remove the Faulty blend motor (s) and attach a choke cable or cycle brake cable to the flap. The attachment are already there for a cable, I presume the flaps are used on other cars that Velo supply. I did this on the car I just sold on the drivers side flap, the others still worked but the cheque book symbol is there. A permanent fix if you dont mind a manual adjuster

[poleonpom]

I recall reading somewhere that someone was looking at using more robust motors used in model airplanes. The blend motors are cheaply made and unreliable (and yet expensive to replace), so this seemed to me a really good idea. Can any of our electronic minded members come up with a plan?

[p38arover]

Another option is to remove the Faulty blend motor (s) and attach a choke cable or cycle brake cable to the flap. The attachment are already there for a cable, I presume the flaps are used on other cars that Velo supply.

I heard the base model in the UK had manual control and didn't have the HEVAC control panel. I've never seen any pix though.

Edit: here we are:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/296.jpg

[Pete38]

I heard the base model in the UK had manual control and didn't have the HEVAC control panel. I've never seen any pix though.

Edit: here we are:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/296.jpg

My guess is that they are still an electronic connection (not mechanical) and use the same blend motors though. I know my Oz spec Nissan 200sx S15 had a manual control but soime jap spec ones had climate control. Both was still electronic, with the only difference being a feedback/control in the climate control, along with the temp sensor and sunlight sensor.

[TheTree]

I recall reading somewhere that someone was looking at using more robust motors used in model airplanes. The blend motors are cheaply made and unreliable (and yet expensive to replace), so this seemed to me a really good idea. Can any of our electronic minded members come up with a plan?

Hi

I remember reading that as well.

Range Rover P38 Maintenance repair improvements and tips learned by experience by ownership. (http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#blend)

I will have a look at it when I get some time, I wish I had kept the two good motors when I replaced mine !

Here is

Steve

[Pete38]

Hi

I remember reading that as well.

Range Rover P38 Maintenance repair improvements and tips learned by experience by ownership. (http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#blend)

I will have a look at it when I get some time, I wish I had kept the two good motors when I replaced mine !

Here is

Steve

After some thinking I'm likely to go down the path of the Britpart ones. I was almost convinced to buy quality but.

Reasons being that they are 150 dollars cheaper and I'll likely repair the current ones as use for spares. Well at least keep them I case I get the problem again. And that a faulty blend motor does not stop the car. I will never go cheap on parts that could stop the car.

I've figured that the first time will take longer due to inexperience and having to modify parts, but the second time will be more familiar and have already dealt with the ducting... So shouldn't be a bad job.

Or am I kidding myself, and the second time will still be a big job. Anyone done it for the second time after following the shortcut method both times??

I'm waiting on a shipping quote but likely order all my bits shortly.

[Shirley]

Hi,
I replaced the Blend Motors in my 96 model P38 about 5 years ago but went to Peugeot for them. Can't remember the model but the parts guys knew what I needed. May have been a 404.
They are the same except for the plug. Also they are half the price, have brass gears, a stronger motor and have the same mountings and fittings.
Have never had any more problems since fitting them myself.
The colour coding is the same but you will have to cut the cable and fit the old Range Rover plug. No big deal, just take your time, solder and insulate the joints. I think the motors were about $130.00 AUD each.
The Genuine ones are junk and have plastic gears and a sluggish motor.

[poleonpom]

Hi

I remember reading that as well.

Range Rover P38 Maintenance repair improvements and tips learned by experience by ownership. (http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#blend)

I will have a look at it when I get some time, I wish I had kept the two good motors when I replaced mine !

Here is

Steve

That was it Steve,

I'd love to change out the crappy cheap blend motors with a set of solid and long lasting alternatives. Surely someone on the forum knows how to achieve this and create a "how to" that even I can follow?

Jonathan

[TheTree]

Hi

It seems Shirl may have hit upon something here :D

This thread even mentions the RR use of the same motors !

405 Heater flap motor (http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/peugeot-forum/92271-405-heater-flap-motor.html)

Looks like 405, 407 and various Citroens use the same motor

And a quick search reveals our resident RoverLord Ron Beckett made this discovery

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html

Steve

[johnyrover]

When my temp blenders went, I used a hacksaw blade with the teeth filed down. Cut a slot in the side of the centre console and put a small nut with heat shrink to control the flap. While I was at it I also took out the duct to the rear, from the drivers side and replaced it with a vacuum hose. Now when I have to play around in there I just flop it out of the way. Works a treat. Now all I have to do is remodel the directional flap control. That motor went. I think the strain of a stiff flap did that one. Oh well on with the show. :D
John

[johnyrover]

I thought I had more to say buy I don't. :D

[poleonpom]

Hi,
I replaced the Blend Motors in my 96 model P38 about 5 years ago but went to Peugeot for them. Can't remember the model but the parts guys knew what I needed. May have been a 404.
They are the same except for the plug. Also they are half the price, have brass gears, a stronger motor and have the same mountings and fittings.
Have never had any more problems since fitting them myself.
The colour coding is the same but you will have to cut the cable and fit the old Range Rover plug. No big deal, just take your time, solder and insulate the joints. I think the motors were about $130.00 AUD each.
The Genuine ones are junk and have plastic gears and a sluggish motor.

That's really valuable information Shirl, thanks.
I agree with you Steve, I think Shirl has hit the blend motors mother lode.
I for one am going to be looking into this. Funny, with these mods and the audi a6 heating matrix we'll have heat made by the English, delivered by the Germans and directed by the French...
Jonathan

[Scouse]

The heater system in the P38 is made by Valeo, a French company:
Valeo - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
so there's probably other cars around with a similar blend motor set up.