VC replacement is nigh!

[PeterH]

My viscous coupling is showing the classic signs of giving up the ghost, so looks like it's time to get under the Rangie again.
I've been having read of what is involved with replacing the vc, would love to hear from anyone who has done this job themselves.
I'm also going to replace the front output bearing which is showing a bit of movement.
Is there any special tools required?
Any tips or advice will be most helpful.
Cheers, Pete.

[Hoges]

Yep, been there. It's fairly straight forward but you require a press to remove the VC from its casing. I got hold of one of those "pack it away" 12T contraptions for a couple of days. It took a bit of pressure to remove but nowhere near the max. capacity of the press.

A 270 Nm 12V electric rattle gun ($80) is almost a necessity to remove the flange nut from the output shaft and 'nip' it back without putting looong levers in place to torque up the nuts. Safer too! A new bearing, new seal etc and you should be OK. There's a huge difference in price for VCs.

read through http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/94290-viscous-coupling-vicious-price.html ...goodness me, it was done in 2009:eek:
good luck with it... PLEASE make sure you have the vehicle absolutely failsafe in terms of being on jack stands...:angel:

[mtb_gary]

Peter

I did mine last year. The best price I found at Ashcroft Transmissions and really good service. The only special tool I used was a good sized bearing puller to get the VC off the shaft. Otherwise, open end and ring spanners as well as sockets. Don't forget you'll also need the silicone gasket sealer when you reassemble.

Gary

[PeterH]

Thanks Hoges, glad to hear it's doable.
The rattle gun would be a good thing to have anyway, but I was thinking of taking the unit somewhere to get it pressed off and on again.
So a new bearing and oil seal I can handle...is there anything else I need to be aware of?
I think there is a special silicone for the casing from what I can gather.

[PeterH]

mtb_gary, were you able to remove the bearing and vc yourself without a press?

[benji]

Years ago I did it without a press, it took some patience with a hammer- but doable. Have got to be very careful with the alloy housing though.

Since then I've bought a 2 tone press, and it does it with ease.
A 50cm breaker bar will undo the nut.

The only issue you may run into is if the splines on the rear of the vc won't let go of the transfer case.

Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

[mtb_gary]

mtb_gary, were you able to remove the bearing and vc yourself without a press?

Peter, I used a decent sized bearing puller,but no press involved. Don't get me wrong the operation wasn't all plain sailing. But it was achievable.

Gary

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/182995-viscous-coupling-replacement.html

[poleonpom]

If you're up for it Peter, some photos of the job would be great.
Jonathan

[PeterH]

I was thinking along the same lines poleonpom, will do! I'll make sure to include close ups of my bleeding knuckles.

[PeterH]

benji, when you undid the nut with a breaker bar, did you have to brace the flange in any way? I was just having a look at the rave manual and saw this:

[mtb_gary]

Peter

Certainly not something I did.

Gary

[PeterH]

Bit of an updtae for those interested, after a few emails back and forth with Ashcroft transmissions in the UK to order the VC, front bearing, oil seal and silicone, I ordered and paid on Friday night and it was at my door this morning (Monday)...hows that for fast delivery from the UK!
Now I have to find some time to do the job.

[TheTree]

Peter,

That is awesome service!

An Ashcroft ATB is on my list so it's good to know that their service is as good as their products :D

Steve

[SpiggyTopes]

Bit of an updtae for those interested, after a few emails back and forth with Ashcroft transmissions in the UK to order the VC, front bearing, oil seal and silicone, I ordered and paid on Friday night and it was at my door this morning (Monday)...hows that for fast delivery from the UK!
Now I have to find some time to do the job.

Hi,

Sorry to jump in.

I'm looking at an Ashcroft transfer case complete, but don't really need the chain.

Please tell me if the list of the bits you bought from them is:

Front bearing (I'm pretty sure mine's going bad)
Oil seal
VC itself

Anything else?

Then I'll copy you!

Cheers.

[benji]

As the viscous coupling on mine had locked solid I didn't need to brace it. If it failed open you'd have too.
There's enough viscosity in a new one to get it back up to tension.
Worst case scenario, use a bit of flat and bolt it to the flange.

Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

[PeterH]

Spiggy Topes, I ordered the VC unit, front output bearing, oil seal and the correct silicone from Ashcrofts.
All up including postage was about AUD $700, much cheaper than the Land Rover list price of 3k, the cheapest my guy could go was $1150 just for the VC unit.
With delivery that fast and saving that much it made good sense to go that way.
I had a few emails back and forth because I was ordering the extra bits along with the VC, but as soon as I got a final price, I paid via paypal and it was on the way straight away.

[mtb_gary]

Spiggy Topes, I ordered the VC unit, front output bearing, oil seal and the correct silicone from Ashcrofts.
All up including postage was about AUD $700, much cheaper than the Land Rover list price of 3k, the cheapest my guy could go was $1150 just for the VC unit.
With delivery that fast and saving that much it made good sense to go that way.
I had a few emails back and forth because I was ordering the extra bits along with the VC, but as soon as I got a final price, I paid via paypal and it was on the way straight away.

Peter
I had the same experience with Ashcroft. Dave was super quick with knowledgeable replies and once I had paid for the bearing and silicone it arrived within 5 days! I was impressed and would certainly recommend them to anyone looking for parts.

Gary

[PeterH]

I'm hoping to get onto this job over the weekend, I got under there today to check it out.
To those that have done this job, did you need to remove the cross member?
It looks a bit tight with the cross member in, but I've heard the crossmember can be a bugger to get out too, so if I don't have to remove it I'd prefer not to.

[Hoges]

I'm hoping to get onto this job over the weekend, I got under there today to check it out.
To those that have done this job, did you need to remove the cross member?
It looks a bit tight with the cross member in, but I've heard the crossmember can be a bugger to get out too, so if I don't have to remove it I'd prefer not to.

Yep...I removed the cross member. Made the job a fair bit easier in the long run. Came away reasonably easily. I supported the rear of the transmission on a jack stand and wooden shim.

Replacing the cross member was a little bit tricky.. The chassis had closed somewhat... so I used a section of 100mm x100mm post (pine) which I trimmed lengthwise and cut a rebate in one end to accommodate the head of the screw scissor jack from SWMBO's Astra.

I cut out an L-shape 70mm deep and 10mm in from the other end of the post so as to locate with the chassis rail. I supported this end on a floor jack and pushed it against the chassis rail. The bottom of the chassis rail sat on the protruding 10mm "ledge". I engaged the other end of the post with the screw jack and wound the screw jack finger tight against the chassis to jam the timber and jack in place and it became self supporting. I checked it was virtually horizontal and then expanded the jack with a ratchet lever a few mm at a time to edge the chassis rails apart. It only needed to shift about 5mm or so and the cross member fitted like a glove:D

The ratchet drive was very firm and I'm guessing the expansion required a couple of hundred kg at least ... With my arthritic shoulder there was no way in a confined space I could have "levered" the thing into position ...

[benji]

Thats quite interesting. My cross member came out easily too, but I had to use a small sledge hammer (with a wooden block of course) to get it back in.

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[PeterH]

Sorry for all the questions here, just wondering about the front output bearing, does that need to be packed with bearing grease, or does that sit on the inside and gets lubricated with atf in the transfer case? It's not very clear in the rave manual.
Don't mean to ask silly questions, better to know before I start pulling things apart!

[SpiggyTopes]

Well, I'm watching you on this!

I can only answer generally that I guess the grease would melt quickly allowing the oil to do its job as designed.

What do others think?

[superquag]

Cross member, front mounting thingy, support rod from bell-housing to front of t/fer case.... Anything else needs to be removed ? (- Or is my Classic different again...)

How's your chain for wear ? - I'm told that P38s are hard on chains....but easy on the output shaft's splines. - Reverse of the Classic, despite being the same BW box.

Close-up pics of skinned knuckles would be a welcome change! :twisted: