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Pete38
24th May 2014, 02:54 PM
I just plugged the Nanocom in to check faults and have found my first engine fault.

I assume this probably means a faulty O2 sensor? Truth be told I have not looked under to see if it's a connection problem but as it's intermittent I feel that's unlikely. If it's faulty there is no harm in driving is there? Apart from the ECU likely resorting to a standard map that will use a little more fuel.

I have a few bits already in my shopping cart at Island4x4 so one more relatively cheap item is not a problem...

Fault:
PO135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Upstream
Catalyst Bank 1 Drive Cycle C
Occurrence 158 times
Signal Too Low
Fault is current
Fault Determined as Intermittent
Fault Causes The Mil Lamp Activation

Pete38
24th May 2014, 03:18 PM
And also confirm Bank 1 means passenger side and upstream means it is a sensor closer to the exhaust ports?

Pete38
24th May 2014, 04:17 PM
And another question.

If I do a check on the O2 sensor (multimeter check) and find something wrong, should I replace just one sensor or multiple? They say replace in pairs but does this mean the upstream sensor and down stream sensor SO a total of 2, not replace all 4 as in both pairs on both banks???? The genuine ones for the Bosch engine are around 45 pounds so not expensive, but also something I wouldn't buy all of them just because I can (seeing they don't stop the car).

wayneg
24th May 2014, 04:43 PM
Just get generic Bosch sensors, you need to use the original plug but the sensors all come with a joining kit. These are real cheap if you look hard enough, last ones I got were US$17 each shipped

Pete38
24th May 2014, 04:46 PM
Just get generic Bosch sensors, you need to use the original plug but the sensors all come with a joining kit. These are real cheap if you look hard enough, last ones I got were US$17 each shipped

I just recently looked at that and wasn't sure to go that path. But at a quarter of the price I could do all 4 for the same price.

Any idea the model number? From what I can tell, they need to be 4 wire versions and also match the same outputs as the stock sensors.

wayneg
24th May 2014, 04:49 PM
There are only two, pre cat either side. 4 wire bosch type, any universal 4 wire type should do, Black grey and 2 white wires. The whites for heating just need joining to any white on the original plug the other two must correspond. Easy.

look for something like this.......
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-O2-Oxygen-Sensor-For-Citroen-Ford-Hyundai-Renault-Volvo-VW-4-Wire-/261416193433?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdd9e8d99&vxp=mtr

Pete38
24th May 2014, 05:00 PM
I actually haven't got under as I only found out this avo and had clean clothes on. So was lounge diagnosing. Right, so we only have 2 sensors, one each side.

09.94 - 09.02 42D
Direct fit 0 258 005 184 Universal 0 258 986 505

So the only difference is the plug.

Thanks for your help.

Pete38
24th May 2014, 05:32 PM
There are only two, pre cat either side. 4 wire bosch type, any universal 4 wire type should do, Black grey and 2 white wires. The whites for heating just need joining to any white on the original plug the other two must correspond. Easy.

look for something like this.......
Universal O2 Oxygen Sensor for Citroen Ford Hyundai Renault Volvo VW 4 Wire | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-O2-Oxygen-Sensor-For-Citroen-Ford-Hyundai-Renault-Volvo-VW-4-Wire-/261416193433?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdd9e8d99&vxp=mtr)

The bosch website recommends 0258986505 for the P38 and the ones you linked are 025898602 so I assume they are different. I can't find the differences... Maybe the threads are different. Cheapest Bosch 0258986505 on ebay are close on $100 at the moment. Generic branded ones that use the same model number seem cheap but wouldn't be my choice.

Keep looking I guess.

wayneg
25th May 2014, 10:15 AM
After loads of reading I just went for the cheapest generic 4 wire I could find, The looked exactly the same as came out apart from the plug not fitted, even came with no seize grease, old ones came out like they were put in the day before, car runs sweet, obd2 readings good.
Looking back on your post the reading you got said mil light illuminated, Is your light on?

Pete38
25th May 2014, 11:33 AM
After loads of reading I just went for the cheapest generic 4 wire I could find, The looked exactly the same as came out apart from the plug not fitted, even came with no seize grease, old ones came out like they were put in the day before, car runs sweet, obd2 readings good.
Looking back on your post the reading you got said mil light illuminated, Is your light on?

I haven't seen it come on. Maybe it flickered and I didn't notice seeing it is intermittent. If it stayed on for a few seconds I think I would have noticed it though.

If I give it a boot full it blows a little bit of black smoke which isn't surprising if it thinks it is running lean when the sensor goes low and pumps more fuel in. Reason I checked the engine diagnostics is because recently I thought I saw a bit of smoke out the back when on three quarter throttle and the average fuel was up a little higher than usual.

I went round and asked some stores about the sensors knowing that they would be higher priced. Just one of those Sunday morning trips.

So Autopro will get back to me tomorrow. They should be reasonable price from previous experiences. They won't likely be Bosch ones and some competitors version.

Repco came up with the Bosch one that has the plug for the P38 and he casually said $280 or something like that.... Ha ha. Gave him the number off Bosch website for the generic sensor and they want $120 plus $15 to get it in. Needless to say I told them that's very steep seeing bosch themselves sell them for $100 and walked out.

Supercheap want $75 each for genuine bosch but not in stock.

So it looks like the generic branded ones are much cheaper. Hmm I also can't see them being much different in performance and also they don't stop the car so not a huge risk.

wayneg
25th May 2014, 11:42 AM
I am not 100% sure on this but all reading suggests these oxygen sensors are the same for most cars, the difference only being the wiring and make.
As I am a cheapskate as always I get the cheapest I can in most instances, If you want Bosch fair enough, heres a generic one with a part number you can relate to, only problem it will take 3 weeks delivery.
Universal Lambda Sensor 0258986505 Oxygen Sensor for DAEWOO/HYUNDAI/VOPEL/SUBARU/SUZUKI, 4 wire oxygen sensor, free Shipping-in Sensors from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-Oxygen-Sensor-Bosch-0258986505-for-DAEWOO-HYUNDAI-VAUXHALL-OPEL-SUBARU-SUZUKI/720018334.html)

I am becoming more and more impressed with Supercheap for getting stuff quickly at the best price, just ordered a Dayco tensioner pulley, $23+$9 shipping, Repco wanted $65.

Pete38
25th May 2014, 12:08 PM
I am not 100% sure on this but all reading suggests these oxygen sensors are the same for most cars, the difference only being the wiring and make.
As I am a cheapskate as always I get the cheapest I can in most instances, If you want Bosch fair enough, heres a generic one with a part number you can relate to, only problem it will take 3 weeks delivery.
Universal Lambda Sensor 0258986505 Oxygen Sensor for DAEWOO/HYUNDAI/VOPEL/SUBARU/SUZUKI, 4 wire oxygen sensor, free Shipping-in Sensors from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-Oxygen-Sensor-Bosch-0258986505-for-DAEWOO-HYUNDAI-VAUXHALL-OPEL-SUBARU-SUZUKI/720018334.html)

I am becoming more and more impressed with Supercheap for getting stuff quickly at the best price, just ordered a Dayco tensioner pulley, $23+$9 shipping, Repco wanted $65.

Thanks for posting the link. That's a better price. The car still runs so I'm not overly concerned about the wait. I'm not sold on Bosch, just it's peace of mind but it sounds like you have no regrets of a generic brand.

Sometimes I find Supercheap are good yes but other times they are just a straight out rip off, and I mean rip off. I've seen things that other shops have for a quarter of the price. But unfortunately most auto places seem to have their random rip off prices. Only place I haven't been shocked with yet is Autopro but I have only gone there 3 times now, the last 2 times they were much better for what I wanted.

glenhendry
26th May 2014, 07:18 PM
GEMS O2 sensors are 0v-5v. THOR O2 sensors are 0v-1v. I believe that it is wide-band versus narrow-band. Does that effect the decision to just get any 4-wire sensor.

I am very happy about this thread, as I will be happy if cheaper sensors are fittable. However, I have tried, and read others too have had trouble with non genuine sensors.

bee utey
26th May 2014, 07:37 PM
I've cut the plug off an OEM grade NTK 4 wire sensor to suit an AU/BA Falcon and crimped/heatshrinked it to the THOR sensor cable on a D2, had no problems. If I had a harness plug available I'd make a short patch harness so the Ford sensor was quick to change. The harness plug is dead easy to salvage off an AU as it's just below the brake booster, easy to snip off with a bit of cable.

The GEMS sensor is of course a different matter, no idea where I would find a cheaper substitute.

wayneg
26th May 2014, 08:04 PM
GEMS O2 sensors are 0v-5v. THOR O2 sensors are 0v-1v. I believe that it is wide-band versus narrow-band. Does that effect the decision to just get any 4-wire sensor.

I am very happy about this thread, as I will be happy if cheaper sensors are fittable. However, I have tried, and read others too have had trouble with non genuine sensors.


Is the gems a 2 or 4 wire sensor? From all my reading the only differences I could find was 1 2 or 4 wire. Maybe I was just lucky getting random Bosch 4 wire ones.
Like Bee utey it seems sensible if in a hurry to get one off a Falcon or similar

davidsonsm
26th May 2014, 08:53 PM
The gems are four wire. I'll post what I ended up fitting to my 98 model year. They were reputable aftermarket, but with the plug included. They've been great.

Pete38
15th June 2014, 08:35 PM
Well O2 sensors done. Surprisingly easy to get out. Hardest part was prying the connectors apart. No more fault and no more occasional black smoke on medium to hard acceleration.... One job down, more to come

Hoges
16th June 2014, 08:51 PM
A simple way to test them 'in situ' is to watch their switching behaviour in real time using the Torque app.
Cheers