Power to Crash Cam

[phl]

I'm trying to decide if I should have permanent power to my crash cam (FWIW, DOD LS430W) or just power with ignition. There is a motion detection function, which should only record if there is movement, but not sure how well it works.

Both should be fairly easy, as I can tap into the Traxide cable for permanent power, or just use a piggy back fuse for ignition only power. I gather some wire it for permanent power just in case of hit and run, but not sure how useful it is in real life, hence seeking feedback.

[~Rich~]

Here is a link to how to set up permanent power to a camera:

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Permenant live for blackvue (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post802466.html#802466)

[phl]

Rich,

Thanks for the suggestion; I have already gone through several posts, including Voug's saying he has permanent live, but a switch to turn it off. Hence my question as to whether it's better to have a permanent live, or switched.

[SBD4]

maybe something like the power magic pro will give you the best of both:

BlackVue - Full HD 1080p Dash Cameras with GPS (http://www.blackvue.com/en/contents/sub1.asp?idx=13)
Power Magic PRO for BlackVue Vehicle Black Box - YouTube

[phl]

Thought about it, but wanted to keep things simple, as I'm worried about the amount (or lack) of room behind the glove box.

Alternatively could fit an Anderson plug between the two batteries to jump start, or have a 20W solar panel on the dash...

[phl]

Installed the cam last Wed evening; it was a pretty quick process, and only required removal of the passenger grab handle, the front courtesy light cluster and the weather-proof strip down to just past the glove box.

I found a stiff 4mm garden irrigation tubing made the process easy as the curve made pulling the cable between the A-pillar and the fuse box behind the glove box easy. Probably too 15 minutes, as my cam had the power entry from the top, so just pulled back the lining rather than going through the rear view mirror.

Took another 15 minutes making everything neat, and preventing rattles with zip ties, foam and tape.

FWIW, elected to have it switched with the ignition; even with motion sensing, it still draws power, and there was no point using the Power Magic as I either recorded all the time when parked, or not at all. Plugged it into the Fuse 52 (has a 20A fuse in mine, listed as Cigar Lighter in the glove box legend, but listed as empty in Topix), as it doesn't obscure any of the other fuses.

[jonesy63]

Plugged it into the Fuse 52 (has a 20A fuse in mine, listed as Cigar Lighter in the glove box legend, but listed as empty in Topix), as it doesn't obscure any of the other fuses.

Hi Paul - how many amps does the camera setup draw? I'd guess no more than 1 or 2A, so your 20A fuse won't offer any protection should the camera have a fault. I'd suggest replacing the 20A fuse with a more appropriate sized one - like maybe 5A.
Cheers,
Rob

[phl]

The draw is 1A; the second fuse, for the camera circuit, is a 2A fuse, as that was the lowest amp rating I could get at Jaycar at the time (got the Add-A-Circuit from them).

The 20A provides power to the original connection, as well as the secondary (you still need the 20A in place or there is no power to the secondary circuit), but I expect the 2A to blow first. I was lucky as the Jaycar setup had position for the fuses, whereas I know several people have had problems as to where to plug the appropriate fuses.