D3 front end "clunking"

[vbrab]

Has anybody had any problems with noise coming from front shock/steering area on D3 with air/shock suspension?
Went to have steering rod ends and spindles replaced because I had some small "play" and a rattle/clunk when driving on slightly rough roads.
Repairer managed to get a "clunk" from steering through being vigorous with wheels on hoist and seemed likely that noise/clunk was internal to the rack. Replace with all new rack/rods etc.
2 days later on dirt track, still have "clunking" on unmade roads/rough carparks. No noise on bitumen, only on off road.
Vehicle drives very well otherwise.
Repairer says that front air shock system can develope a clunk/rattle, but need to change whole unit. (Air strut and shocker)
My query is.
Suspension unit appears to have separate rubber bush atop it.
Does anybody know if it might be a case of replacing that "bush" rather than the whole unit, or it it a case of change the whole unit?
Has anybody else had similar front end "clunks" that were not steering related? Not keen to replace parts that might not need it.

[Drizzle]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/192768-d3-control-arm-bushings-liquid-filled.html

[Epic pooh]

Anti roll bar d rubbers can also cause a clunk. Most commonly lca per the thread or lower steering column. Good luck !

[Xtreme]

Check front control arm bushes.

[AnD3rew]

Check front control arm bushes.

That X2

[ADMIRAL]

Or front lower balljoints, particularly if they haven't been changed already.

[brumby]

I had a clunking noise when going over corrugations, rough road and speed bumps. My mechanic (land Rover independent ) picked it straight up as the Lower Control Arm bushes. because of the labour involved it is cheaper to replace the whole Lower Control Arm. Drive over a speed bump on an angle and this should tell you which side the noise is coming from.
Blakey

[Greatsouthernland]

Worth replacing LCA's bushes with poly bushes. The rubber ones are under engineered for the weight.

Don't do what I did and replace top ones with polyurethane too, as this made the beast too tight, with low profile tyres, very firm.

This mob -

Famous Four - Independent Land Rover Parts, Accessories, Sales & Servicing Specialist - Land Rover Parts, Land Rover Accessories, Land Rover Vehicle Sales, Servicing & Repair (http://www.famousfour.co.uk)

I found paying labour to replace the bushes and ball joints on 4 LCAs was cheaper than all new arms (factored in postage) also the benefit was choosing the poly bushes which would last 3 times longer than rubber bushes.

Just my experience...

[vbrab]

Thanks all for input and suggestions will check it all out.
Would usually think ball joints/rod ends and such as the suspects, but had upgraded (D4) lower arms, ball joints etc fitted previously, and all that seems to still be tight. Will explore the bushes on torsion bar, if no luck, will have to pull out airshock and check upper rubber mount.....before replacing the whole unit.

[~Rich~]

No torsion bars on a D3!
Perhaps you meant Anti Roll Bars?
As mentioned before these are also a culprit of clunking, easy fix too.

[ctgiles84]

I have replaced all bushes and now the tie rods. I had same noises so do it all if you can.

Changes everything when you do this. Feels better to drive.

And yes they are all easy to do yourself.

[vbrab]

Yes did mean "anti roll" bars, did 1000k's on gravel over weekend, only got the "clunk" when suspension dropping down in small holes or off rocks.
Will explore/change all things that look like bushes, then that rubber fitting on top of air shock if all else fails.

[Epic pooh]

With the d-rubbers you can loosen off the mounts and put a bit of rubber under them to see if that is the issue. I'd also suggest checking the lower steering column shaft as I have had a clunk from the uni joint there. Not sure that the top of the strut is replaceable (or even if it is a likely candidate - assume you've checked the top nuts are tight ?) - I have a front strut under the house so let me know if you'd like me to look at it or post a photo if that would help. Good luck !

[Rich84]

I have to replace my LCAs as well. Has anyone DIY'd them and if so, is it reasonably straightforward?


EDIT: Scratch that, just read the post a couple above mine saying easy to do yourself...

[vbrab]

When I did my LCA's the biggest problem was undoing the drive shaft nuts in centre of hub. Needed a metre power bar and a length of pipe on it, might have been easier if that was the first nut I had tackled (with the wheels still on the ground and and chocked, rarther than the last nut with most of it hanging in air and able to move about when I applied pressure to undo. Other than that, pretty straightforward job. Any replacement LCA should now be all ugraded D4 with heavier ball joint fitted.. Order new shaft nuts when you order parts.
I attach a PDF of what info I have on removal, didn't have any of the listed special tools.

[winaje]

What's the part numbers for the D4 version please?

[vbrab]

As I understood the supplier of my LCA's, all replacement LCA's for D3's are now same specs as for D4's. Perhaps query that with supplier when you order.
There is even a heavier version (for armoured D3's/ RR's).
I just accepted the replacment LCA's (Brit parts), which have the bigger lower ball joint as per D4's.
Seems replacement steering rack is also "ugraded" to D4 specs.

[ytt105]

Just finished fitting the little rubber bits to the anti-roll bar bushes.

Quite easy ONCE you get the top nuts loose. They are a bugger to get at.

I tried just about every socket, extension, wobbly bit, etc that I own and when just about to give up, it came loose.

You don't even have to take the nuts off. Just loosen them and push the rubber bits between the bushes and the chassis. Tighten up and all done!

By the way the rubber bits cost me $7.80 for a pack of four from my local dealer! (The second pair are for the rear ones.)

Now I have to go off-road to see if it stops the knock! Damn.