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neophyteguy
29th May 2014, 07:11 AM
Firstly, thanks for any help you can offer in regards to this!

I found on the site that the instrument lights are supposed to be on all the time, but mine aren't working at all. ALSO, MY MAP LIGHT ISN"T WORKING.

Found two ground wires mounted behind the plate which covers the wires under the dash (mounted to bulkhead). Cleaned and reinstalled these ground wires. ARE THERE OTHER GROUNDS FOR THE SWITCHES AND LIGHTS?

I took off my dash yesterday as I'm planning to install a MUD UK unit and need to get some interior light issues sorted first. I also removed the console that has the CDL/Blackout Switch and Dimmer. The dimmer certainly looks worse for wear, but it does change the voltage when I turn the rheostat.

I then located the plug behind the instrument cluster that powers the lights. When I disconnect this plug, I get voltage through the red and red/white wire(s) that is connected to the dimmer switch. However, when I then connect the plug again, I don't get any voltage past this point.

So, there was some tape on a joint just past where the plug was. I removed this and it was simply covering a solder joint where three wires came together off the instrument cluster. Even though this is only a few inches past where the plug is, I do not get voltage at this point.

The plug seems very intact and I don't believe there could be a loss of connectivity inside the plug.

Anyone got any ideas on this? I spent longer than I'd like to believe trying to get that sorted yesterday, but I did get to know my wagon a bit better!

Cheers,
JRW

neophyteguy
29th May 2014, 10:33 AM
Ok, turns out it was definitely the dimmer switch. I had noticed the voltage didn't change smoothly when I was turning the switch, so though this might be the issue.

However, to test it I connected the wires directly together and was able to get lights. At this point I'm considering whether or not to replace it.

Thanks as always,
JRW

303gunner
29th May 2014, 11:24 AM
Does anyone know of a source of replacement rotary dimmer switch, either an OEM replacement, or a quality aftermarket? Land Rover might sell the switch BYG9130 for just less than the price of a new Defender.

DBT
29th May 2014, 02:24 PM
My dash lights work (except for speedo) and my dimmer dial also does nothing.


Haven't cracked open the dash (yet), but suspecting my dimmer has already been bypassed.


I also get a lot of light leaking out from behind the instrument housing into the vent area immediately left of the speedo. Wondering if its possible the globe has slipped away from the speedo and is resting somewhere it shouldn't be.

isuzutoo-eh
29th May 2014, 02:36 PM
My dimmer is absolute rubbish, cranking it up and down a dozen times improved things so that it doesn't rattle 'off' as often but i'll be damned if the dimmer is worth having anyway, the standard dash lights are dull enough to be near enough full blackout anyway.

neophyteguy
31st May 2014, 08:53 AM
I'd say it's a pretty safe bet the upper light in the speedo has fallen out mate. I'm saying this as my came out pretty easily when I took off my instrument cluster. The lead for the globe is pretty short relative to the the other light leads back there.


My dash lights work (except for speedo) and my dimmer dial also does nothing.


Haven't cracked open the dash (yet), but suspecting my dimmer has already been bypassed.


I also get a lot of light leaking out from behind the instrument housing into the vent area immediately left of the speedo. Wondering if its possible the globe has slipped away from the speedo and is resting somewhere it shouldn't be.

rust
1st June 2014, 05:24 AM
I've got a similar DBT speedo light issue but suspect it's a blown bulb stuck in the bulb holder. The workshop manual instructs a 'pull/twist' action but I can't seem to get the damn thing out using 'any' action.

neophyteguy
1st June 2014, 08:53 AM
Hey mate, my speedo lights are T10 type fitting which just pull straight out. You'll know if it's the T10 if the base looks flat, not rounded. My other gauge lights are the round BAS style bayonet fitting.

However, if it's the round, bayonet type (BAS9 or BAS7) then mine have to be pushed down and then twisted. Be careful as you certainly don't want to break it off in the bulb holder.

Also, I hadn't realised until I took mine out that the green "condom" can be removed from on bulb and placed on another if your careful and this is what you want. Before I had just assumed you needed to get a coloured bulb.

jackz
4th June 2014, 09:33 AM
My dimmer switch is also rubbish. It only works in one spot. A touch either side an darkness! Luckily, the spot where it works is towards the bright end of the scale.

Cliffy
4th June 2014, 09:45 AM
Temp fixed my dimmer a couple of days ago.
There is a contact cleaner we used to use on aircraft called "pro gold" by deoxit.
You can get it from Jaycar and comes as a kit with 2 small aerosol cans.
1 is a rejuvenator, the other is a lube/protector.
Great stuff.
I'll give my switch a hit with it on the weekend and repot back.

86 shed
8th June 2014, 07:06 PM
My dimmer switch seems to work OK, but the bulb holders on the speedo express no interest in staying in position, even long enough to refit the dash!!!:mad::mad:
michael.

neophyteguy
10th June 2014, 05:35 AM
Hey mate, put some of that "Tommy Tape" or whatever it's called that is self amalgamating to hold the fixtures in place. It's the stuff which sticks to itself when it gets a little stretch to it. Can be used for emergency repairs of hoses, pipes, etc., so it's pretty serious stuff.

I noticed my Speedo cables were shorter than the others, so it might help to lengthen them a bit as well. However, I'd go for the tape option first.

Good luck!
JRW