Removal of Blackout Switch?

[neophyteguy]

Hello,
Does anyone know if it is possible/easy to remove the blackout switch? Ideally I'd like to just connect the existing wires that come off the unit in some manner that would take it out of the system.

OR, is it possible to put in a 25 amp/3 way switch like a Carling or something to replace it with? I'm not fussed about the ability to Black Out the Vehicle, but as long as I have the lights on it would a cool option. However, I had so much problem with my with on my 2A that I'd happily replace/remove it.....

Cheers,
JRW

[Dervish]

Yes, it's just a matter of removing two of the cables and joining them. If you go to REMLR library and look up the Perentie Unit Repair Manual, the schematic is on the second last page. It will give you the cable colours to join.

[Dervish]

Well the schematic doesn't have a key to cable colours, but there will be six cables entering the switch; join the two "N" coloured cables (?) and also the two "GP" (green with a pink or purple stripe) ones.

As also noted on the REMLR site, Perenties came with a few different harnesses... Good luck!

[Lotz-A-Landies]

A test pencil will help.

When you remove it, people like me would be happy to buy it off you.

Diana :)

[neophyteguy]

Thanks Diana and Dervish!

Diana, you're first off the rank if I decide to take it off/out.

Do you guys know if it would be possible to simply run this through a normal 3 way switch? I'm thinking not as the Blackout Switch is might hefty!

Thanks for any thoughts on the Carling type switch.
JRW

[Lotz-A-Landies]

If you are going to disable the convoy and reduced lighting then there is no reason you couldn't use a Carling type switch. The reason for the current switch was that it does so much more than just turning on the head lamps and side lamps. And the Army wanted a switch that was robust.

If you are planning fitting a module like Mud Stuff console for radios etc then the Carling switches would be the way to go.

[Dervish]

It would have to be a double gang, 3 position (not two position and off) switch able to handle a fair amount of current... If you found one I think it would be around the same size as the existing.

[neophyteguy]

Hi, just wondering if installing 3 relays which are controlled by a switch would work?

[Dervish]

Using relays would allow you to use a switch with a lower current carrying capacity. How low the CCC of the switch is would dictate how many relays you'd need, but I've only ever seen switches that complex for control purposes i.e. VERY low CCC. If you were to use one of these switches, you would need 6 relays (with the caveat that I have only spent a few minutes looking at the schematic for this purpose, so you may get away with one or two less).

[neophyteguy]

Thanks Dervish!

I completely removed the switch today. All I had to do was simply disconnect the two brown wires (which were 12V constant/unswitched) and connect them together. Couldn't have been easier if removing the Blackout Switch is interesting to anyone.

Just for giggles, I attached the front convoy lights and the rear diff light to an open connector I found that is only activated when the light switch is in the parking light position. Just in case I ever wanted to have those lights operational.

Thanks again for your help in regards to this matter!
JRW

[dranoweb]

I've been told by roadworthy inspector/mechanic that these lights have to go - but may be acceptable if the switch is rendered inoperable and cannot be accidentally switched off.

I plan to make a removable link so that operations can be restored if ever needed in the future - perhaps I can take some photos and post the procedure here?

[Blknight.aus]

removing the lights is not a legal requirement. Disabling/removing the switch so the normal lighting circuit can not be bypassed is. interpretation of the written law is one of the key issues that this goes west on.

you can wire it up so the blackout and reduced lights come on with the park lights and still be legal.

[dranoweb]

Well, it's done either way.

Kept the lights attached - but bypassed the blackout switch - with the aid of the diagrams from REMLR and the suggestion of a previous post here to check out the brown wires.

As I'm the sort to take pictures before I start - I have some images for those wishing to do the same:

First off I found I could remove the face plate well enough to remo0ve the Santon switch without removing anything else:



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/233.jpg


I then removed the dash cover:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/234.jpg

I gently removed the santon switch - as lucas wiring has a reputation with my father (ex auto elec) - I'm told I'm on my own with this - good thing I know my stuff lol.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/235.jpg


I removed, and meter tested the two thickest and brown wires - and bridged them together with a 3mm stainless nut and bolt (with washers).
I also made sure to secure the vacant screw terminals so they don't vibrate loose later.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/236.jpg

As I had misplaced my heat shrink tubing, I used my emergency roll of "earth" insulation tape - and shoved it back in the hole lucas style.
I will return post roadworthy to neaten and replace alot of the wiring in here.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/237.jpg

A side note - the blackout switch knob is secured by a small flat blade screw, that only needs a couple of turns to release.

careful not to damage or kink the vacumn lines to the transfer case lock valve - this could be an expensive mistake.

This is also why I didn't remove the knob or the valve at all - I didn't want to upset it.

I hope the pictures clarify things a bit more for anyone else thats tumbles upon this thread.

[Chris078]

You also need to bridge no's 5 and 6 (I think, check your wiring chart) or you will find you have no tail lights. (don't ask me how I know...........:angel: )

<edit> nevermind, you're leaving the rest of the switch attached so it should still work. If you ever remove, you need to bridge those other wires.

[dranoweb]

Thanks. I noticed that, hence why I left it in circuit. Should pass roadworthy as is. Will consider reinstating later.

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[dranoweb]

sooo... my mechanic/roadworthy inspector called me today - all military lights had to go - so they have been removed, and all bonnet tool holders had to go.

I checked this and according to vicroads regulations:

"all lights fitted to the vehicle must be operational, and comply with Australian Design Regulations"

In other words, lights that are attached, and non-functional are a no-no.
as are functioning lights that are attached, which do not comply with ADR.

so they may get some fresh paint and return at some point later on - depending on how much legislation I'm willing to wade through.

The bonnet tool holders were a a matter of contention - the mechanic had no issues, but he consulted with the vicroads inspector, who said that they were protruding edges and bolts that could cause a hazard to a pedestrian.

they also will need some restoration, as will the damage to the bonnet after 26 years of neglect - who knows, someone might install a set for me in the night one night, without my knowledge.

[Chris078]

they also will need some restoration, as will the damage to the bonnet after 26 years of neglect

Remember to look up how to deal with the PPP paint that is on Perenties.
It will do it's best to kill you if you don't take the proper precautions when sanding/painting etc.

[dranoweb]

Thanks.
I don't do things half-assed.
Always do my homework first.

I may consult you about that at a later date.

Just registered it a few minutes ago - now waiting at RACV office.

And duty tax sucks.

$922 all up to register. $280 to roadworthy, plus a slab.

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[Chris078]

they also will need some restoration, as will the damage to the bonnet after 26 years of neglect

Remember to look up how to deal with the PPP paint that is on Perenties.
It will do it's best to kill you if you don't take the proper precautions when sanding/painting etc.


That's meant to be PUP (polyurethane polymer)
decent info here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/220006-pup-polyurethane-polymer-paint.html).
1. Do not mechanically sand it.
2. Wet sand only by hand (very lightly 300+ grit) wipe off immidiately with a rag and dispose of in black plastic bag.
3. full safety gear when sanding/painting is required. Suit,respirator, gloves and goggles.

Treat it like asbestos with the additional that the nasties can be absorbed through your skin and especially your eyes!

[dranoweb]

Yeah I read up a little on CARC paint last night.

I'm now looking for a professional to do the job.

if it worked an image of the bonnet should be attached.

It will need more than a light sanding.

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[Chris078]

Yeah I read up a little on CARC paint last night.

I'm now looking for a professional to do the job.

if it worked an image of the bonnet should be attached.

It will need more than a light sanding.

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You can use paint stripper to remove the paint around the bare patches so you can safely sand off the corrosion.
Then use primer filler or skim coat to level the paint out.


Have a look on the underside as well, particularly around the seam of the support brackets. If the paint is bubbling, you can scratch it off with a screwdriver and you'll probably find a bit of corrosion where the aluminium and steel have been welded together.

[dranoweb]

Its been bent in the past and the steel and aluminium have separated in places.

This may end up a serious repair. Also need to weld a crack on the lip as well.

But this is probably not the topic for it. Ill discuss it in the proper thread as I come to tackle that job.

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[StarFire]

Hi All
Just bought the Surveillance 1991 with 12800 K's on it!!!! I thought when I first started to check the Perentie's out that they were around the clock but to my surprise when I viewed the service manual ...it was only put into service in 1/2010 ...sitting for 19 years awaiting service??

I have to vehicle register now and along with the list you may have read else where I need to remove the blackout switch and wiring. I just started to remove the the front plate and decided to loosen off the fuse rack but there is little opportunity to get behind or access the switch with out major dash surgery!!! Any one have the correct steps to take on how to effect this with the least time/effort in doing the job for the DOT inspectors?? :( Thanks in advance

[dranoweb]

You may find if your vehicke is ex loan pool, it may have previously belonged to another unit and been overhauled and refurbished. I'm told they get new books when that happens. Speedos get replaced alot too.

My advice re: dash

Loosen the nut on the diff lock valve, undo the two flat blade screws either side of the label plate.
remove screws under that

Remove the plastic cover above switch, and the dash edging.

The cover should lift out - the rest should become apparent here.

Take a few photos of the wiring and check for wire labels. I found I only needed to bypass one pair.

If re-instating it, be sure to get them in the right way round or you will burn out your dimmer.



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[StarFire]

Thanks dranoweb for your reply.
Seen the plastic cover between the fuse bank and blackout/transfer/dimmer switches which I loosened off but unable to get any real movement from the fuse bank with the short spaghetti wiring attached to the rear.
I guess by lifting up the unscrewed fuse bank up as much as possible ...undoing the two screws holding the plastic cover over the blackout/transfer/dimmer switches is the only way to access this area for blackout switch removal!! The DOT defects list didn't mention the dimmer switch removal just blackout & wiring!! Anyway will give the go to see what happens ...one tight space to work in. ;)

[wpalmo]

Hi All
Just bought the Surveillance 1991 with 12800 K's on it!!!! I thought when I first started to check the Perentie's out that they were around the clock but to my surprise when I viewed the service manual ...it was only put into service in 1/2010 ...sitting for 19 years awaiting service??

I have to vehicle register now and along with the list you may have read else where I need to remove the blackout switch and wiring. I just started to remove the the front plate and decided to loosen off the fuse rack but there is little opportunity to get behind or access the switch with out major dash surgery!!! Any one have the correct steps to take on how to effect this with the least time/effort in doing the job for the DOT inspectors?? :( Thanks in advance

You got one of the good ones. Well done. I see you are located in East Perth, did you pick up the RFSV at the last Grays auction in Perth? Pretty sure some in that auction were 'Tenexed' (rebuilt).
Regards Warrick.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hi All
Just bought the Surveillance 1991 with 12800 K's on it!!!! I thought when I first started to check the Perentie's out that they were around the clock but to my surprise when I viewed the service manual ...it was only put into service in 1/2010 ...sitting for 19 years awaiting service??

I have to vehicle register now and along with the list you may have read else where I need to remove the blackout switch and wiring. I just started to remove the the front plate and decided to loosen off the fuse rack but there is little opportunity to get behind or access the switch with out major dash surgery!!! Any one have the correct steps to take on how to effect this with the least time/effort in doing the job for the DOT inspectors?? :( Thanks in advance

Yours may have been refitted from FFR to RFSV spec around 2010, and hence that's when records begin/restart.

[StarFire]

You got one of the good ones. Well done. I see you are located in East Perth, did you pick up the RFSV at the last Grays auction in Perth? Pretty sure some in that auction were 'Tenexed' (rebuilt).
Regards Warrick.
Was able to get at the black out switch with out problem when I lifted out the plastic cover between the fuse bank above and the three switch units below. Will explain more when i get it licensed!!
Initially it looked like a tight space to get to but turned out OK. Other Perentie's appear to have the fuse box in different places!!!
Not sure about the refitting and odometer changing?? Why would the ADF change the K meter?? On the first run to the Welshpool inspection ...the examiner could not believe how good it looked under side for 25 years old. I recon there is a bunch of stock sitting in a big shed for the potential event for mobilization. The September Grays auction at 46 Airds Road, Minto NSW seen the RSFV's going for an average of $22,359 + the 6% Buyer P + 10% gst = $26,070 take home. This works out $4k more than Perth Grays Aug Auction. ...Interesting! ....when I just bought it on a whim! ....but looking forward to getting her on the road and showing her some bushes!! :)

[dranoweb]

The speedos were good for getting full of water... simple service solution was replace them.

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[wpalmo]

Was able to get at the black out switch with out problem when I lifted out the plastic cover between the fuse bank above and the three switch units below. Will explain more when i get it licensed!!
Initially it looked like a tight space to get to but turned out OK. Other Perentie's appear to have the fuse box in different places!!!
Not sure about the refitting and odometer changing?? Why would the ADF change the K meter?? On the first run to the Welshpool inspection ...the examiner could not believe how good it looked under side for 25 years old. I recon there is a bunch of stock sitting in a big shed for the potential event for mobilization. The September Grays auction at 46 Airds Road, Minto NSW seen the RSFV's going for an average of $22,359 + the 6% Buyer P + 10% gst = $26,070 take home. This works out $4k more than Perth Grays Aug Auction. ...Interesting! ....when I just bought it on a whim! ....but looking forward to getting her on the road and showing her some bushes!! :)

Is your RFSV licensed now? How did you get on getting it licensed? Did you have to remove anything like the dickie seat or the protrusions on the front and rear bars?

Regards Warrick.