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View Full Version : New to owning a Defender...general advice sought



TroyFenda
31st May 2014, 10:44 AM
Hi all,

I've owned a series of Toyota Hilux utes and haven recently fulfilled my long held desire to own a Defender.

I purchased a used 2009 Puma with around 65,000kms and currently have a few extra options being fitted to it.

Previously, having owned the old Toyotas, I got used to some common issues and how to fix them. I also used to replace the oil and filter every 5,000kms but have noted the 20,000kms service intervals for the Defenders.

What's the general consensus on serving the engines a little more regularly, along with any common problems and fixes that other owners have experienced?

I have also fitted new 235/85R16 mud terrains on the standard wheels bit am thinking of putting a slightly wider tyre on, say a 265. Are there any issues with this or are you opening a can of worms with having to use offset wheels, larger flares etc etc

Thanks in advance for any help. I'd also appreciate any information on local owners or clubs in the Hunter or Upper Hunter Valley area.

jackiec
1st June 2014, 12:50 PM
Half the kms what factory recommended is always the safe bet. I wouldn't bother change it to wider tires more fuel consumption and nosier with no real benefit off road for defender.

Cammo
1st June 2014, 03:10 PM
Theres a few of us around Maitland...

Toxic_Avenger
1st June 2014, 03:34 PM
...and a few further north apparently.

noyakfat
1st June 2014, 05:14 PM
Hi mate,

I drive a 2014 Keswick green 110 wagon. From new, I changed over to 16x8 steel wheels with "0" offset and I run 265/75R16 mud terrains.

I love it and don't see any problems. Fuel economy seems pretty good to me and I don't find the noise offensive at any speed.

It's my daily drive and extremely capable on weekend jaunts. I also plan on oil and filter changes at 5,000 km intervals.

Enjoy. I'm sure you will love it :)

Cheers,
Nige

Edit: My tyres fit with standard flares

Chops
1st June 2014, 05:48 PM
Hi Troy (?), and welcome,,
I've got a 2011 Defer which I purchased new.

Cant really say much about tyres, I'm still running the originals, and just clocked over 80K, and they're sort of still looking pretty good. I was changing over to my old MTZ's every now and then when playing, but with a -25 offset, they hang out well past the flares, creating very muddy door handles,,, SWMBO was not amused :eek:,,, but it sure did look good :cool:

As for servicing, I do mine approx. every 10-12K. Have had a few warranty issues, but all sorted by the dealers. One of the Turbo hoses has a tendency to be damaged through rubbing on the steering arm.
The fuel breather hangs just behind the back wheel, which the dealer has now lengthened and tucked it up in behind the rear blinker/lights cover.
There's probably a few other things which others hopefully will come along and add to. As well, doing a few searches in the Defender area will help too.

My cars currently sitting in the workshop having the injectors replaced as I copped a dirty load of fuel (water),,, not covered by warranty as its an "outside" influence. :(
So my advice to you, as explained to me by a enthusiast mechanic at the dealers, is to change your fuel filter at least every 20K.

All in all,,,, I love my car like no other :D

TroyFenda
1st June 2014, 07:34 PM
That's all great advice and I appreciate the time people have taken to offer up their individual bits and pieces.

I already love driving the 'Fenda' and its a great thing when other Defender owners pass you on the road and throw an enthusiastic wave your way. I feel like I'm now a part of a big Landrover family.

First impressions of my new toy are very positive. The 2.4 transit engine is nowhere near as bad or sluggish as I was initially led to believe. A drive of an older TD5 did however lend itself to this idea. If anything, my opinion is now quite the opposite...I'm very impressed by it.

I'm keen to catch up with other owners for a drive when time permits when I'm home from work. If there are any clubs or groups that meet regularly around the upper hunter or close by please let me know...I'm keen to get involved.

Thanks again for the advice. I'm all ears.

Regards,

Troy

Dopey
1st June 2014, 07:59 PM
G'day Troy,
Looks like a nice tidy 110 you've got there.
Just out of interest, what's the filler cap for (the one behind the drivers side rear passenger door) and what brand of snorkel is it on there?
Regards,
Mike.

specwarop
1st June 2014, 08:40 PM
So that dirty fuel issue you had, how can you prevent that from running your engine? That also doesn't void warranty?

TroyFenda
1st June 2014, 09:06 PM
G'day Troy,
Looks like a nice tidy 110 you've got there.
Just out of interest, what's the filler cap for (the one behind the drivers side rear passenger door) and what brand of snorkel is it on there?
Regards,
Mike.

It's a long range tank by LRA Australia which sits fore/aft on the drivers side and holds around 55-60 litres.

I'm not sure of the brand of snorkel but its a quality installation. I'll have a look when I'm home in a week and half and get back to you.

Chops
1st June 2014, 09:07 PM
So that dirty fuel issue you had, how can you prevent that from running your engine? That also doesn't void warranty?

I assume you mean "ruining" the engine ;).
I spoke with the dealer and told them I would be putting a secondary filter/water alarm system. They didn't say it would void anything or not, and so at this point, I don't really care if it does. I'll have better piece of mind with it there.
Having said that, to anyone else, I would advise seeking written advice from them, and probably have them fit the unit themselves.

TroyFenda
1st June 2014, 09:23 PM
Hi mate,

I drive a 2014 Keswick green 110 wagon. From new, I changed over to 16x8 steel wheels with "0" offset and I run 265/75R16 mud terrains.

I love it and don't see any problems. Fuel economy seems pretty good to me and I don't find the noise offensive at any speed.

It's my daily drive and extremely capable on weekend jaunts. I also plan on oil and filter changes at 5,000 km intervals.

Enjoy. I'm sure you will love it :)

Cheers,
Nige

Edit: My tyres fit with standard flares

Is there a chance I could trouble you for some shots of your defer with the larger steel wheels on it? Email troymussio at hotmail.com

I'm undecided on the larger tyre so will keep it as is for the time being with the factory alloys.

specwarop
1st June 2014, 11:41 PM
I assume you mean "ruining" the engine ;).
I spoke with the dealer and told them I would be putting a secondary filter/water alarm system. They didn't say it would void anything or not, and so at this point, I don't really care if it does. I'll have better piece of mind with it there.
Having said that, to anyone else, I would advise seeking written advice from them, and probably have them fit the unit themselves.

Yeh sorry, meant ruining - stupid phone autocorrect.
Anyways yeah, what secondary filter/water alarm did you fit and at what stage of the fuel lines? I will also chase up a dealer to hear what they think regarding warranty...

noyakfat
2nd June 2014, 08:58 AM
Is there a chance I could trouble you for some shots of your defer with the larger steel wheels on it? Email troymussio at hotmail.com

I'm undecided on the larger tyre so will keep it as is for the time being with the factory alloys.

No problem Troy.

I'm on a day off today, so have just taken some snaps for Chops and will send them to you.

Cheers,
Nige

Chops
2nd June 2014, 09:30 AM
Thanks Nigel, I'll get back to you via pm after.

Troy, as with Nige's car, I have no lift or driveline mods on my car. Some here do have lifts done, and seem to advocate using Double Carden Uni's. Not sure on too many facts about that, but I've done a fair amount of touring and I don't really believe a lift is needed. The only thing I'm contemplating doing is putting in heavy duty springs, and then I'll go to Pedders for shocks.
I guess the only other thing is to ensure your snorkle is up to scratch, as in sealed properly. Mine was factory fitted, and had a split on the box section that is on the inside of the guard.
Specwarop, I haven't bought one yet, have to wait to get the car back, and then cash. I may end up getting a second hand unit off something (??).

PAT303
2nd June 2014, 10:27 AM
IMHO changing engine oils in any post 1990 LR diesel engines at 5K is a waste of oil,I would feel perfectly happy changing both my Tdi and TDCi oils at 15k when using good quality oil,if you are worried about dirty fuel a Mr Filter funnel is a good buy,I use mine when out in the bush or filling from jerries. Pat

BilboBoggles
2nd June 2014, 12:26 PM
After living through a bad batch of fuel on my 2009 Defender back when it was a few months old - which actually turned out to be a badly positioned fuel tank breather. Couple of things I wanted to mention in case they help:

1 - Your insurance company will usually cover the cost of damage from a bad batch of fuel. Check your policy, and make sure it does. (RACV did, oh and one other thing - don't get a claim number until you've exhausted all other avenues for getting someone else to pay - once you have a claim number - you may find it affects your premium costs even if you cancel the claim later....)
2 - Many fuel distributors will also cover the repair costs if you can identify with a receipt the fuel source. Some are better than others. They will pay for the repairs themselves.
3 - Do not accept that the intake for your fuel tank breather is left dangling in the air behind the rear wheel on the MY09 models - get the dealer to relocate it. (PRE 2009 models and post 2009 models have a different fuel breather location.)


Check your fuel tank breather location, Make sure you have a good insurance policy that covers bad fuel - and then don't worry about it.

I looked into the additional pre filter. The PUMA does not have a lift pump, any additional filter would likely make it more prone to sucking air in to the diesel through leaking fuel filter gaskets etc. Also it would require you to prove using your own automotive engineer that it did not induce a fuel related fault in the event of a warranty claim. After living through a $15,000 repair bill on a brand new vehicle, and the PITA of proving it was due to a faulty breather location - I decided It's not worth the hassle for a vehicle under warranty - In my opinion anyway. If its a vehicle defect LRA will have to cover it, if it's a contaminated fuel then the fuel supplier or your insurance will cover it. But if you've introduced something non standard - that gives them all an easy opt out clause. So from my perspective - until the warranty runs out - I got piece of mind keeping it stock. But one thing I did do after that incicent was have then drain and check the fuel filter every service - it's only scheduled I think every 40,000ks normally. (I never again had water in the fuel after the breather was fixed)

I believe that the fuel filter housing is the same as a TD5 (Well the filter inside is a much higher spec filter though). But the TD5 has a Water in Fuel sensor - so possibly you could swap housings and put a factory sensor in. You may even find that the later housing has the port for the water sensor already installed...

specwarop
2nd June 2014, 12:30 PM
Hmm, sounds like Mr Funnel is the easy answer, along with a good insurance provider...

TroyFenda
8th July 2014, 08:06 PM
It's a long range tank by LRA Australia which sits fore/aft on the drivers side and holds around 55-60 litres.

I'm not sure of the brand of snorkel but its a quality installation. I'll have a look when I'm home in a week and half and get back to you.

Apologies for the late reply...work has been a tad busy of late.

The snorkel is a factory Landrover fit.

I've also recently added a heavy duty ARB steel roof rack. It should go a long way to helping store everything needed for a few near-term camping/hunting trips.

The Cone of Silence
9th July 2014, 07:59 AM
G'day Troy

Congratulations on a splendid and character-building purchase. You are now officially a brave man.

Tips: if it's been raining, wear wellies. your feet will, at some point, get wet. Defenders leak. It's bloody annoying, but it happens.

I have a 2008 Puma 110 (called Monty) with 125,000 on the clock so we're in similar territory in vehicluar terms.

With respect to your tyre choices, there are a bunch of threads on the site regarding sizes and types. I looked into this for ages as I wanted something wider, eventually fitting BFG ATs 265/75/16 on some King Wheels black steel wheels that I got with a zero offset. I didn't need extra flares but got some anyway from Terrafirma.

I've found there's a little bit of adjustment can be had out of the steering stops in order to slightly improve the appalling Defender turning circle which frankly makes the Jahre Viking look like a nimble ballerina.

If you lift the suspension and go for 50mm higher coils (or more), don't forget a DC prop shaft for the front as the stock shaft can't handle the extra angle. Well, not all the time. Some have been ok.


Have a browse around the site, particularly using the search and checking out the Project and Tutorials as well as The Modified Zone and Members Rides. Oh, and The Good Oil.

Happy to head up to the Hunter for a weekend, I spent a fair bit of time up in the Watagans and Yengo NPs. Just PM me if you're heading away sometime.

Bobby

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=80191&stc=1&d=1404860212

loanrangie
9th July 2014, 09:35 AM
Thanks Nigel, I'll get back to you via pm after.

Troy, as with Nige's car, I have no lift or driveline mods on my car. Some here do have lifts done, and seem to advocate using Double Carden Uni's. Not sure on too many facts about that, but I've done a fair amount of touring and I don't really believe a lift is needed. The only thing I'm contemplating doing is putting in heavy duty springs, and then I'll go to Pedders for shocks.
I guess the only other thing is to ensure your snorkle is up to scratch, as in sealed properly. Mine was factory fitted, and had a split on the box section that is on the inside of the guard.
Specwarop, I haven't bought one yet, have to wait to get the car back, and then cash. I may end up getting a second hand unit off something (??).

I would steer clear of pedders shocks Marcus, Koni's or Billies from US would be better.

MLD
9th July 2014, 01:46 PM
If fuel contamination is a concern for you another option is to go aftermarket like a Fuel Master filter kit. It has a clear bulb on the base of the filter and a drain tap for water contamination. A quick glance at the bulb when you get in and there is no need to rely on alarms and pot luck. My Fuel Master kit has a manual pump to prime the fuel line which gets around the stupid idea by LR (for the Puma series) to not have a priming system in case you run out or when changing filters.

I'm out of warranty so arguments with the manufacturer are long gone. What people don't appreciate is that the factory warranty is not the limit of your available relief against the manufacturer for defects. You still have recourse to the Consumer Law and State legislation implied warranties provisions. What the fault is and the specific circumstances of your case will be the main factor if you have a remedy under the legislation.

MLD

Scallops
9th July 2014, 02:03 PM
It's a long range tank by LRA Australia which sits fore/aft on the drivers side and holds around 55-60 litres.

I'm not sure of the brand of snorkel but its a quality installation. I'll have a look when I'm home in a week and half and get back to you.

Nice truck Troy and welcome to the fold.

That's a genuine Land Rover snorkel made by Mantec UK. ;) I had the same fitted to mine from new. World's most expensive piece of plastic pipe, but coupled with Nugget's water proofing airbox kit, it's the business.

Go with 10,000km service intervals and having had 265's I reckon you're best off with 235's......get them anywhere, totally do the job. 255's actually give you a lift but harder to get in the backblocks.

Enjoy your new Rover, they are special machines. :)

TroyFenda
15th July 2014, 09:26 PM
G'day Bobby and Scallops,

Thanks a bunch for the posts gents.

I'm starting to shy away from running a bigger tyre. Currently I'm running Bridgestone MT 235s on the factory alloys and they perform quite well off-road despite some highway noise. That said, I didn't buy the Deefer for comfort and quiet ride characteristics.

I have noticed a puddle under both front footwells whenever it rains. Any fix for this? I was wondering about running some silicone somewhere across the top of the bonnet/firewall/cab joint...if that makes any sense. It's not that bad a problem bit it's also not ideal either.

On the weekend just gone I also noticed a slight split in the roofing joint where the angled section from the windshield meets the level section for the main part of the roof. As such, it looks like air would be collected under the roof just under the roof rack. Can't be a good thing in rain surely. Suggestions for a fix would be appreciated.

I had the front suspension replaced with Old Man Emu coils and shocks which lifted it 50-55mm back to its original ride height. It sagged over the years due to the weight of the bull bar and winch combo. I'm having the back upgraded to the same spec as we speak.

I have however noticed that, following a workshop oil change of all fluids, that I get some weird buzzing noises in 5th and 6th gear when the load comes off. I'm told gearbox noise is normal for a Deefer unit how much is an unknown to this newbie owner. I might have the fluid levels checked for both the main transmission and transfer case.

When I have time to scratch myself I'd be keen to meet up for a drive somewhere for sure. The minister for finance and husband social outings will however have to approve :D

Recent picture attached from a recent trip to a friend's cattle property near Barrington Tops in company with the wife, the little bloke, fur babies and some friends of ours in their Amarok.

The Cone of Silence
16th July 2014, 07:20 AM
[QUOTE=TroyFenda;2185098]G'day Bobby and Scallops,

I have noticed a puddle under both front footwells whenever it rains. Any fix for this? I was wondering about running some silicone somewhere across the top of the bonnet/firewall/cab joint...if that makes any sense. It's not that bad a problem bit it's also not ideal either.

On the weekend just gone I also noticed a slight split in the roofing joint where the angled section from the windshield meets the level section for the main part of the roof. As such, it looks like air would be collected under the roof just under the roof rack. Can't be a good thing in rain surely. Suggestions for a fix would be appreciated.

The two pieces above are probably related. If you do a search (use advanced search) you'll find a copy on this site of the 'Water ingress manual' which suggests places water gets in and how to deal with it. There's also a lot of tips form those who have had a crack at it.


I have however noticed that, following a workshop oil change of all fluids, that I get some weird buzzing noises in 5th and 6th gear when the load comes off. I'm told gearbox noise is normal for a Deefer unit how much is an unknown to this newbie owner. I might have the fluid levels checked for both the main transmission and transfer case.

This shouldn't be happening. Definitely check your gearbox and transfer case fluid levels. I don't have any gearbox noise so I'd suggest that it's not 'normal' for Pumas. I do get a touch of clunking occasionally in a bad gear change but that's been identified as a problem between the windscreen and the driver's seat.


When I have time to scratch myself I'd be keen to meet up for a drive somewhere for sure. The minister for finance and husband social outings will however have to approve :D

Awesome. PM me when you're up for it. Give me a couple of weekends' notice too....for the same reason.

Bobby

Tikka7mm08
16th July 2014, 09:16 AM
I have done a few things to my 08 90. I ruled out lifts and larger tyres. 235/85 Cooper Maxx's are the business. Transmission guard is meant to be good as a bit exposed under there and once I work out which way up is right that will go on this weekend. I really fretted about the rear corners so got some rock solid Terrafirma bumperettes.

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx251/Tikka7mm08/20140613_163604_zps4ymls4ka.jpg (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/Tikka7mm08/media/20140613_163604_zps4ymls4ka.jpg.html)

Pickles2
16th July 2014, 02:47 PM
Tikka, do you have the proper L.R. towbar fitted, & if so, I was just wondering the Terrafirma model number bumperettes you fitted, & whether they just bolted on with no mods?
A close up rear pic would be good?!
Pickles.

Tikka7mm08
16th July 2014, 03:02 PM
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx251/Tikka7mm08/20140522_090719_zpspqtmjddu.jpg (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/Tikka7mm08/media/20140522_090719_zpspqtmjddu.jpg.html)

Yes it is a straight bolt on and a huge improvement on the factory plough. It is provides a great rear recovery point with the removable hitch. Can't recall the part but not hard to find.

Tikka7mm08
16th July 2014, 03:05 PM
Sorry misunderstoood...but they both bolt on easily. The factory tow bar is a pig and was the first upgrade so I had a rear recovery point.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx251/Tikka7mm08/Mobile%20Uploads/20140302_111249_zpsvww6qirt.jpg (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/Tikka7mm08/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140302_111249_zpsvww6qirt.jpg.html)

TroyFenda
20th July 2014, 11:46 AM
Tikka...does your username suggest ownership of another fine piece of machinery that fires hot lead at high speed?

noyakfat
20th July 2014, 12:56 PM
also a fine calibre :)

Tikka7mm08
20th July 2014, 03:21 PM
Hi yes but no longer have one in the safes...have set up 3 Tikkas in 7mm08 over the years...all have shot 0.5MOA or better with pet load. Exceptional value.

TroyFenda
20th July 2014, 04:23 PM
Apologies for the thread drift.

A nice reward at the end of a night hunt with my Tikka .308.

Tikka7mm08
20th July 2014, 04:57 PM
That's a nice pig...I'm trying to get a M03 going with 150gns in 308 at the moment.

TroyFenda
31st July 2014, 01:56 PM
A little while ago I reported some buzzing in 5th and 6th gear when the load was taken off and some 'back pressure' went through the gear box.

Following on from a slight modification to the front suspension height where we replaced the factory suspension with new OME suspension kit due to sagging, a small footnote on the bottom of the suspension guide says that any increase in height from the original ride height can introduce a slight vibration though the front drive train. We replaced the front prop shaft with a double carden joint since the original ride height was slightly increased...problem solved. The suspension kit was $600 ish fitted for the front kit and $540 for the carden joint prop shaft fitted.

Hope this helps anyone else lifting their Defenders by any amount, big or small.

Cammo
31st July 2014, 05:28 PM
Hey Troy
Where did you source the driveshaft from? Seems like a pretty good price

TroyFenda
31st July 2014, 10:18 PM
Cammo,

The shaft was sourced and fitted by ARB in Tamworth. They've done a reasonable amount of work for me and I've been quite happy with the result. Their labour rates are not extortionate either so I've been happy to return.