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View Full Version : Hello, I'm very confused - battery replacement



adamk
1st June 2014, 09:30 AM
Hello All, hope you are well
I just joined Aulro. i purchased my 1st 2001 defender 130 last week and have come across a problem that i cant seem to sort out. the battery was on the way out when i purchased the car so i bought a replacement. i disconected the old and put it the new.All cables are attached again but im not getting any power anywhere, eg even no interior lights, and i have blown no fuses. I was wondering if there is a secret to changing the battery or are there fuses located anywhere else besides the cabin fuse box and under the drivers seat. i read in the workshop manual that i was supposed to turn the ignition to position 2 then undo the negative then take the key out. i failed to to this as it didnt mention it in the owners manual.
Who would have thought changing a battery could be such a saga.any thoughts would be greatly appreciated coz the next stop will have to be the auto electrician.

thanks alot
Adam
sorry if this was in the incorrect forum area

V8Ian
1st June 2014, 09:36 AM
Sorry, I can't help here but don't wander too far away, I'll warrant the soloution will be here by lunch time.

Welcome to the family. :)

bob10
1st June 2014, 09:47 AM
G'day, Adam. I was born confused, welcome to the club. For future reference, at the bottom of the page is the box, forum jump. Open it up, scroll down until you get to " 90, 110, 130, defender, county". And you are home. Bob

MR LR
1st June 2014, 10:11 AM
It may seem obvious, but have you connected the cables the right way? I've seen it done wrong before... Something worth checking, and from there start poking around with a multimeter, initially across the battery terminals making sure it's not dead as a door nail. From there check that it's earthed to the body/chassis (continuity) and then check your positive supplies.

Cheers
Will

adamk
1st June 2014, 10:46 AM
thanks Mr LR
yeh iv been looking with a multimeter.its as current running from the the positive cable as far as i can get before it goes into a loom.and after it goes near the firewall the wiring becomes impossible to see again.
thanks alot for the idea.il try just about anything atm.
cheers
adam

Sitec
1st June 2014, 12:23 PM
Hi there. Is there an immobiliser that you don't know about perhaps.... Strange one! :)

superquag
1st June 2014, 12:31 PM
Have you got the RAVE manual ? It's available from the Forum shop.- Worth its weight in Unobtanium... Land Rover has always done things 'diFFerAnTly to everyone else... We addicts wear it as a badge of honour.:p

Have you tried a 12v test-lamp across the new battery? Multimeters do NOT 'load' the battery and can sometimes be deceptive. You won't be the first victim of a 'Dead On Arrival' battery!

Double-checked that the new battery is connected up correctly? - Despite my background.... I nearly did it myself.:o

My quick guess.... seeing as you've realized you didn't sing 'Rule Britannia' and have the key in the LR-approved position...is your immobiliser is offended, and has shut down everything in sight.

http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/users%20manual%20-%20defender%20tdi%20td5%20v8.pdf

I found this in the owner maintenance section. - It might shed some light on what's going on.... or rather, not going on. :eek:

Keep us posted!

Edit:- Yes, good point Sitec, is there a button or two on the Ignition key? Long shot here....the battery in your key may also be dying.... There is a special procedure for replacing it too !
AFAIK, they use a rolling code, supposed to be impossible to hack. But if the car battery is disconnected out of sequence...as you've done... the key fob and car immobiliser get too far out of synch to work out where the next code should be...and they sulk.

It's also a good idea to post the details of your car as a signature or footer, especially when you're new here. Makes it easy for us to narrow down the advice.

James in WA,
'95 Classic Vogue SE 3.9, with working Air suspension.

adamk
1st June 2014, 02:30 PM
thanks a lot for the link. That's the book i have that informed me of the correct disconnecting of the battery. i called the previous owner to find out about a remote for the immobilizer but he said there wasn't one. Im pretty sure the key has a chip in it to immobilizer. Thats why i cant get any key cutter to cut me a new set if required,must go through land rover.i found a section about manually overriding the immobilisers with a code using the key. i tried with the code in the front of the owners manual.no luck.i think il hav to wait till the morning and visit my local land rover service department and hope they are willing to give me some free advice.
cheers
Adam

scarry
1st June 2014, 02:49 PM
If the interior lights don't work and i presume any of the other lights,i doubt it would be an immobiliser problem.Earths from the battery are tight with no corrosion where they go onto the body/chassis?
Power at any of the fuses may be a good start.
Unless it has one main fuse?
There may be some other fuses under the bonnet as well.

Blknight.aus
1st June 2014, 04:58 PM
check the polarity first,
then check both sides of the earth cable, and if you have a set of jumper cables remake the earth by clamping the negative terminal down to under the vehicle on the Tcase, gearbox or exhaust (the first two are preferable)

Recheck the power thing again

if thats not helping, check the main bus fuses under the bonnet, and start probing for voltages.

the first one you check is from the positive on the battery to the door striker on the passangers door frame. IF thats shows the same as the battery voltage terminal to terminal on the battery then check it again with a test light made up from a spare headlight bulb or similar (50w work light) if that comes up brightly youve lost the main electrical feed.

bare in mind you could be looking for something as a corrosion insulated connection.

Grappler
2nd June 2014, 02:27 PM
Test you have a good main earth and the new battery is good, as recommended. I think the following is appropriate for your model
Next test for voltage at the starter motor. (the big terminal with red and brown wires attached). Next test for voltage both sides of the 100 amp fuseable link in the engine compartment fuse box, then the other links and fuses in the engine compartment fuse box