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benji
2nd June 2014, 06:39 AM
Doing the rear diff yesterday, I noticed some movement in one of the hubs. Is it normal for them to have a bit of movement?

Given how reliable these bearings seem to be I'm thinking of getting a second hand hub, as opposed to pushing in a new bearing.



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simmo
2nd June 2014, 07:29 AM
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/145268-wheel-bearings.html

Looks like can be pressed out ( like my old reanault ) follow the link , mmmm maybe do both of them R&L

cheers simmo

TheTree
2nd June 2014, 07:33 AM
Hi

Movement in the hubs is always a bad thing in my experience :(

Steve

simmo
2nd June 2014, 07:41 AM
I'd buy one hub from the wrecker, that feels Ok, and fit it, won't take long, and get the car back on the road. With my Renault I made a set of tools for changing the bearings. A big bolt and some pipe etc. If you do that you can overhaul the hub off your car and change one whenever you have a problem. Or get the Landrover shop to rebuild the spare hub for you. good luck simmo;)

benji
2nd June 2014, 01:53 PM
That sounds like the go simmo. I assume I can re-use the stake nut.

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mtb_gary
2nd June 2014, 07:42 PM
Doing the rear diff yesterday, I noticed some movement in one of the hubs. Is it normal for them to have a bit of movement?

Given how reliable these bearings seem to be I'm thinking of getting a second hand hub, as opposed to pushing in a new bearing.



Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

Benji

What are you doing to your diff?

Gary

benji
3rd June 2014, 07:28 AM
Just put the difflock in - can't wait to test it out!
I put an ashcroft lsd in the front last Wednesday, so it should be a good combination.



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TheTree
3rd June 2014, 07:42 AM
Hi

Great news, I am looking at an Ashcroft ATB very soon :p

Did you install the ATB or the TruTrac?

Steve

mtb_gary
3rd June 2014, 11:32 AM
Just put the difflock in - can't wait to test it out!
I put an ashcroft lsd in the front last Wednesday, so it should be a good combination.



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Benji

Did you end up changing the backlash on the diff or just bolt straight in?

Gary

benji
3rd June 2014, 07:07 PM
Unless the crown wheel and pinion are in new condition you shouldn't reset the backlash.
Interestingly the crown wheel runout dropped from .09 to .04 - maybe due to arb having better build tolerances.



I went the atb diff. From what I've read the ashcroft unit has more preload, and a higher bias ratio - so it'll shove more torque across.
A mate and I went out last Friday and it's just great. A local hill that sees me cross axled had the wheels spinning (as usual but a lot later), but there was enough torque transfer at 1600rpm to spin the other side front and up it went. I couldn't do that line before unless I was going to use a silly amount of momentum. But it almost crawled up it.

The pre-load is enough to spin my road tires on grass and mud without having to 'spin' the diff up.

I was concerned about understeer, but it's made no difference. But it does pull up better in the wet, and reacts to the camber of the road s lot less.



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TheTree
4th June 2014, 07:28 AM
Hi

Sounds like an ATB front and rear is the way to go :p

Steve

mtb_gary
4th June 2014, 08:18 AM
Hi

Sounds like an ATB front and rear is the way to go :p

Steve

That's my project for the weekend ;)

Gary