New axles

[ted44]

Hello all, I was told today that I need new axles & drive flanges, on the rear of my Defender 110 1996, I'm not sure whether to go for the heavy duty, Ashcroft or Terrafirma units, I've never replaced these before, is it as easy as wheel off, rubber cap off, circling off and then draw the axle out and replace with new axle and drive flange? Thanks for any input.

[technophile]

I have been advised the same thing, 2006 110 defender, and i will be going with HD shafts.

I have been quoted $1000 for shafts and flanges

[ted44]

I've been told they are about 30-40% worn!

[technophile]

I've been told they are about 30-40% worn!

Same with mine, they are being replaced due to the slop causing a clank when changing gears.

HD shafts are more cost effective.

[weeds]

I fitted maxi-drive (hy-tuff) axles 8 or so years ago and there is zero sign if wear......approx. 200 000km

[Drover]

Rears are dead easy..
Wheels stay on.
5 bolts - drive flange off.
Slide old half shaft out.
Slide new shaft in.
Put drive flange back on.
Done

[wovenrovings]

I'm not sure about the alloy wheels but with the steel wheels you don't have to take the wheels off.

Just unbolt the flange and pull the whole lot out. Don't have to undo anything else. Just save you a bit fiddling around.

Oh and have rag ready in case it dribbles oily and grease out on your wheel. :o

[wovenrovings]

Beat me to the draw Drover :)

[weeds]

........if you go hy-tuff it's recommended you convert to oil lube which means pulling the hubs.

[redrovertdi]

make sure you chock the wheels because when you pull the 1/2 shaft your diff is free and the hand brake dont work on an open diff.
I have ashcroft shafts because they work with the hte flanges i was already using where as the maxi drive 1/2 shafts need a matching flange[not a universal one]

[GuyG]

I had to do that for the rear of my 98 110. I was able to get some good second hand axles from M R Automotive after someone else had upgraded to HD axles. Just a thought if money is tight:)

[simmo]

Hi you have the recommendation for new shafts, how many kms did they do? 200,000?

I have a set of rear drive flanges and shafts in mint condition only done about 100,000k, I took them out when I fitted the maxi drive locker. My fronts still are almost perfect at 200,000kms. Weeds recommends going for oil filed hubs, it's a great idea no matter what type of new flanges and shafts you buy, it ensures your drive flanges and shafts are always well lubricated. There's plenty of info about that on the forum.

I would say on the back axle it was the easiest , and most beneficial modification I did to my car. I removed the back stub axles and took the seal out, and drilled and tapped ( 1/8" gas), the drive flange, ( dammed hard material). I can change the hub oil independently or check for water anytime I like. Can refill the hubs with a 25 m ml syringe, each hub has 60 mls in it. A home mechanic with vice and electric drill can do it. ( drill pres makes it easier but not essential) . 1/8" gas is common plug size available almost everywhere and cheap, carry a couple of spares in case you drop one and loose it . I never had a problem with the landrover rubber hub caps leaking oil, but recommend you always carry a couple of spares, I have had them dislodged by stick and branches in the bush, last time I got them they were $5 each i think. cheers.

[technophile]

Hi you have the recommendation for new shafts, how many kms did they do? 200,000?

Mine is at 78,000km and I need to replace my rear shafts. Could there be another issue?


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[simmo]

I don't know how long they should last. But I think 300,000 -400,000 should be a base line judging by the original front drive shafts on my car still in almost mint condition , (200K). Barring over torque or fatigue failure (unknown factor)
My back axle shafts you could still see the machining marks in them at 100,000 kms.

If they are allowed to run dry and "fret", they'll wear quickly. No mater what shaft and drive flange you buy it will wrecked if you don't look after the maintenance. The after market ones will last longer because of their superior metallurgy, but they cost 3x as much to replace.

If you don't have oil filled hubs, good maintenance of your drive shafts takes about 30 minutes every three months. ( assuming they are already clean and don't have metal particles from fretting and delamination. ). Just remove the rubber cap and put 1/2 teaspoon of grease in the cap and put it back on.
If they look dirty of dry you have to clean them first by removing the drive flange and cleaning the shaft splines and drive flange in side with petrol & an old toothbrush, and blow dry. Apply light coat of grease to both , put some grease in the rubber cup and put it back on.

For so little effort you can make your car more reliable and avoid replacing the shafts. My favorite grease for this use in Molybdenum di sulphide grease, it's grey stuff, but normal bearing HTB grease will be OK.
If you have oil filled hubs, an occasional drain and refill of the oil, maybe annually, or when you adjust the bearings will do. I have a full set for the rear axle somewhere at home in Brisbane if any one has need PM. good luck,

[simmo]

I don't know how long they should last. But I think 300,000 -400,000 should be a base line judging by the original front drive shafts on my car still in almost mint condition , (200K). Barring over torque or fatigue failure (unknown factor)
My back axle shafts you could still see the machining marks in them at 100,000 kms.

If they are allowed to run dry and "fret", they'll wear quickly. No mater what shaft and drive flange you buy it will wrecked if you don't look after the maintenance. The after market ones will last longer because of their superior metallurgy, but they cost 3x as much to replace.

If you don't have oil filled hubs, good maintenance of your drive shafts takes about 30 minutes every three months. ( assuming they are already clean and don't have metal particles from fretting and delamination. ). Just remove the rubber cap and put 1/2 teaspoon of grease in the cap and put it back on.
If they look dirty of dry you have to clean them first by removing the drive flange and cleaning the shaft splines and drive flange in side with petrol & an old toothbrush, and blow dry. Apply light coat of grease to both , put some grease in the rubber cup and put it back on.

For so little effort you can make your car more reliable and avoid replacing the shafts. My favorite grease for this use in Molybdenum di sulphide grease, it's grey stuff, but normal bearing HTB grease will be OK.
If you have oil filled hubs, an occasional drain and refill of the oil, maybe annually, or when you adjust the bearings will do. I have a full set for the rear axle somewhere at home in Brisbane if any one has need PM. good luck,

[rick130]

Mine is at 78,000km and I need to replace my rear shafts. Could there be another issue?


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Pretty normal, the splines wear due to fretting-corrosion.
Mine were totally gone at the same distance when I bought the vehicle. Maxi-Drive (now Hi-Tough) long spline axles and drive flanges replaced them and the hubs are oil lubed and no perceivable wear with another 240,000km on the 'new' axles/flanges.

The fix is as Simmo said.

[uninformed]

make sure you chock the wheels because when you pull the 1/2 shaft your diff is free and the hand brake dont work on an open diff.
I have ashcroft shafts because they work with the hte flanges i was already using where as the maxi drive 1/2 shafts need a matching flange[not a universal one]

What is the difference between a Maxi Drive drive flange and a Hi-Tough Engineering drive flange?

[ted44]

Simmo, they have done just under 200000, not bad I guess?

[simmo]

Hi Ted not too shabby :D

Those that have damaged shafts and flanges that need replacement below 100,000 k should be asking the service center about it.

A new set of Salisbury flanges and shafts would be is quoted at Rover spares online parts is 2 x $ 70 for the axles and 2 x $ 25 for the drive flanges , dam that's cheap. :) is that right? plus 2 hours work, say $500 all in, not bad?

[Samblers]

For my benefit, what is the wearing part (or surface) in the axle?

What does "30-40% worn" mean?

[PAT303]

I'd pull and check them first,lots I've seen just needed flanges. Pat

[simmo]

Hi Sambers that's a good question:) I'm not sure what they mean by that either, I guess it means only 1/2 half stuffed.

I would spend a couple if hours on the weekend and have a look yourself or get friend to come over, ( entice with free beer etc). No need to remove the wheel , take the drive flange bolts out , circlips off etc.

remove the drive flange and look inside at the profile of the splines, are they flat on the tops and look regular? If they're sharp on top the flange is U/S, also you can compare the profile with the unused spline section of the axle . same with the axle. Clean up the axle and the flange with petrol and a toothbrush and slide them together dry and rock the flange on the spline & check for "play". As pat says , look at both parts, if the flange is worse , and the axle looks OK you may just be able to buy new flanges, its a cheap fix, about $70 for two I think. If you put good grease on them now they might go for another 10 years. But if in doubt change them, I'd be happy to fit new landrover axles and flanges, They're reasonably priced and I think the quality is OK. I only changed mine to go with the maxi drive locker.