1998 110 clutch pedal

[uninformed]

hey all,

about a week ago I jumped in my 110 (first drive of the day) and the clutch peddle went straight to the floor with no disengagement. I checked the reservoir and yes it had lost all its fluid. No visable leaks???

peddle had been fine before this.

Filled it with dot 4 brake fluid and pumped the peddle and it came back to about 85~90% I did not have any gear with me to bleed (not at home) so drove off thinking I would have to refill every few kms. I got home and level had only dropped about 2mm???

All week it has been fine except on 2 random occasions where, when changing gears the peddle stayed stuck to the floor, BUT the clutch was engaged (i.e. had drive) ???

I replaced the master cylinder and flushed/replaced/bled fluid about 12 months ago.

any ideas?

[JDNSW]

Slave cylinder. remove the wading plug on the flywheel housing, and expect to find the missing fluid.

John

[uninformed]

thanks John,

Do you think it suffered from the failing master cylinder and fluid flush?

[Dervish]

I was told just recently to only use DOT 3 fluid in Defender clutches; something in the DOT 4 eats the cylinder seals fairly quickly. Apparently it's an issue in 70 series landcruisers as well. I'd never heard that one before, but it was from a source I trust.

[uninformed]

funny I heard that DOT4 was a problem in the Nissans and Toyotas, but not our defenders. Again, I source I trust

:confused:

[JDNSW]

thanks John,

Do you think it suffered from the failing master cylinder and fluid flush?

Unlikely, but if the master and slave were the same age, it is often advised to change both at the same time.

John

[Devans]

Filled it with dot 4 brake fluid and pumped the peddle and it came back to about 85~90% I did not have any gear with me to bleed (not at home) so drove off thinking I would have to refill every few kms. I got home and level had only dropped about 2mm???


DOT 3 fluid is the way to go. It is less abrasive than DOT 4 fluid, hence increasing the life of the seals in the slave and master cylinders. You don't need DOT 4 either because it is not a high heat system.

[uninformed]

DOT 3 fluid is the way to go. It is less abrasive than DOT 4 fluid, hence increasing the life of the seals in the slave and master cylinders. You don't need DOT 4 either because it is not a high heat system.

Thanks, I was just going by what I was advised and it worked in my favour as that is the same brake fluid I use in my 110...

[uninformed]

Unlikely, but if the master and slave were the same age, it is often advised to change both at the same time.

John

AFAIK, the slave is original, the master cylinder has been replaced at least once.

[uninformed]

ok, so in typical LR fashion there are 2 different slave cylinders for about my age 110. My local brake guy could not get any info from his end, but knows there are 2 different types. (no difference or part numbers in his books)

I have LR part number

FTC5072 for gearbox # up to 56A 0669086K

and

FTC5202 for gearbox # after 56A 0669087K

Going off my gearbox that would make my 98 110 slave cylinder part # FTC5072.

Can anyone confirm this?
Can anyone give a equivalent part number for other brands?