2008 puma 110 engine immobiliser

[Photodude]

Hoping somebody can help.
After a bad run with this car ( only had it since April) it is now not starting at all.
The key fob buttony thing is not working and unlocking car. Have tried to replace batteries and still not good
Can get in car with key but when I start car the alarm go off and stops engine.
Have tried loosening the negative battery turning key on the off take terminal off to reset the immobiliser but still no good
Even have left battery off for more than 30 mins no luck.
Had to have car towed home.
Has anyone ever had this.

Should also mention do not have the reset code from dealer and had recently ( yesterday but still have been driving all day ) had the stereo upgraded

Any help would be appreciated

[tact]

Just checking perceptions... When you changed the fob battery did you follow the process in the user manual?

(There is this whole convoluted process that doesn't quite require a blood sacrifice, but does involves being in the car near the ignition switch when you actually change the battery else risk of losing synchronization with the ECU. And a bunch of steps to follow to resync if you did follow the process and change the battery inside the vehicle)

Just asking to establish some common ground here - if you just took the fob to the local hardware or Mr Minute and changed battery you might have caused yourself some added grief.

[Photodude]

Just checking perceptions... When you changed the fob battery did you follow the process in the user manual?



(There is this whole convoluted process that doesn't quite require a blood sacrifice, but does involves being in the car near the ignition switch when you actually change the battery else risk of losing synchronization with the ECU. And a bunch of steps to follow to resync if you did follow the process and change the battery inside the vehicle)



Just asking to establish some common ground here - if you just took the fob to the local hardware or Mr Minute and changed battery you might have caused yourself some added grief.


I changed them in the back of the car. But I am now thinking that may be to far away from ignition.
Was not aware that changing the battery had a set procedure.
How do I connect them to the ECU again.

[tact]

This is from owners manual for a MY2013 - yours may be different. Step 7 below re syncs fob if all else ok

REMOTE KEY FOB BATTERY REPLACEMENT
When the battery is due for replacement the following symptoms will be apparent:
•The remote control will work only with a second press of the unlock button.
•The indicators will not flash when the alarm is disarmed.
•Alarm indicator in instrument pack continues to flash rapidly after initial ten second period of rapid flashing.

The remote control battery must be changed while inside the vehicle.

DO NOT remove the battery until you are ready to install the replacement. Battery replacement must be completed within five minutes otherwise the EKA code will have to be entered before the remote control can be synchronised to the vehicle.

Fit a new Land Rover STC4080 or a Panasonic CR2032 battery.While sitting in the driver’s seat, follow the process to replace the battery:
1.Insert the key into the starter switch and turn to position II. Return it to position 0and remove the key.
2.Starting at the key ring end and using a small coin or screwdriver, carefully prise apart the remote control.
3.Slide the battery out of its retaining clip. DO NOT touch the internal parts
4.Press and hold one of the remote control buttons for at least five seconds to drain off any residual power.
5.Fit the new battery ensuring that the + symbol is facing up. Finger marks on the battery flat surfaces may adversely affect its performance. Ensure that the battery is clean.
6.Press the two parts of the remote control casing together, ensuring that they are fully joined. Moisture and dirt must not be allowed to enter.
7.From outside the vehicle, operate the lock button at least four times. This will synchronise the remote control with the vehicle.
8.Press the unlock button once to unlock.The remote control is now ready for use.Note: Used batteries must be disposed of correctly as they contain a number of harmful substances. Seek advise on disposal from your local authority.

[tact]

I had the battery die in a fob last week and followed the above to replace batteries in both my fobs

[Drover]

This is from owners manual for a MY2013 - yours may be different. Step 7 below re syncs fob if all else ok

REMOTE KEY FOB BATTERY REPLACEMENT
When the battery is due for replacement the following symptoms will be apparent:
•The remote control will work only with a second press of the unlock button.
•The indicators will not flash when the alarm is disarmed.
•Alarm indicator in instrument pack continues to flash rapidly after initial ten second period of rapid flashing.

The remote control battery must be changed while inside the vehicle.

DO NOT remove the battery until you are ready to install the replacement. Battery replacement must be completed within five minutes otherwise the EKA code will have to be entered before the remote control can be synchronised to the vehicle.

Fit a new Land Rover STC4080 or a Panasonic CR2032 battery.While sitting in the driver’s seat, follow the process to replace the battery:
1.Insert the key into the starter switch and turn to position II. Return it to position 0and remove the key.
2.Starting at the key ring end and using a small coin or screwdriver, carefully prise apart the remote control.
3.Slide the battery out of its retaining clip. DO NOT touch the internal parts
4.Press and hold one of the remote control buttons for at least five seconds to drain off any residual power.
5.Fit the new battery ensuring that the + symbol is facing up. Finger marks on the battery flat surfaces may adversely affect its performance. Ensure that the battery is clean.
6.Press the two parts of the remote control casing together, ensuring that they are fully joined. Moisture and dirt must not be allowed to enter.
7.From outside the vehicle, operate the lock button at least four times. This will synchronise the remote control with the vehicle.
8.Press the unlock button once to unlock.The remote control is now ready for use.Note: Used batteries must be disposed of correctly as they contain a number of harmful substances. Seek advise on disposal from your local authority.

I was wondering why my blinkers stopped flashing when unlocking !
Cheers

[Photodude]

I had the battery die in a fob last week and followed the above to replace batteries in both my fobs


I tried pressing the lock button lots of times but still no luck. I did not replace with suggested make of batteries so will buy Panasonic ones today. See if that makes a difference.
My battery in the car went flat last week could a low battery cause this problem.

[tact]

I couldn't find Panasonics so I used Eveready CR2032. Working fine.

[Photodude]

Is there any way of disconnecting or switching off the immobiliser

[Photodude]

79297
Just found this key with code on it. Does anyone know what that is for.

[jc109]

A bike lock maybe, or is there a lockbox hidden somewhere in your vehicle?

[tact]

Yes there is a way to re-mobilize without the fob. You need the EKA code and you need to know how to enter it.

You mentioned earlier not having your EKA so I guess you know what that is. You need it now it seems.

All the talk about disconnecting battery just does a hard reset of the security system. That means like a reboot. It doesn't mean wiping it and disarming it. After a hard reset the system is operation, car immobilized until fob is operated.

EKA entry is the prescribed means to bypass. You need it.

Maybe, just maybe, if you found someone nearby with a Nanocom Evolution you might be able to bypass, or find out the EKA. But I really haven't tried or read up on that. Just tossing that in the ring.

[Drover]

Batteries change on both fob's, procedure followed - perfect.

Blinkers flash on unlocking now :BigThumb:

[Photodude]

Yes there is a way to re-mobilize without the fob. You need the EKA code and you need to know how to enter it.



You mentioned earlier not having your EKA so I guess you know what that is. You need it now it seems.



All the talk about disconnecting battery just does a hard reset of the security system. That means like a reboot. It doesn't mean wiping it and disarming it. After a hard reset the system is operation, car immobilized until fob is operated.



EKA entry is the prescribed means to bypass. You need it.



Maybe, just maybe, if you found someone nearby with a Nanocom Evolution you might be able to bypass, or find out the EKA. But I really haven't tried or read up on that. Just tossing that in the ring.


Thank you for all your replies and help.
Ended up ringing land rover and after proving ownership got the EKA code. But entering it did not help. Then got Davis performance out with the diagnostics machine and disabled the immobiliser and alarm to get it started.
Turns out all of these hassles were due to a blown central locking fuse. Have now got the immobiliser permanently disabled to avoid this again
Milly and I are now both on the move
Thanks guys

[troppojon]

I've got a key like this for my tow locking tow bar pin.

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Thank you for all your replies and help.
Ended up ringing land rover and after proving ownership got the EKA code. But entering it did not help. Then got Davis performance out with the diagnostics machine and disabled the immobiliser and alarm to get it started.
Turns out all of these hassles were due to a blown central locking fuse. Have now got the immobiliser permanently disabled to avoid this again
Milly and I are now both on the move
Thanks guys

Thanks for the heads up on the fuse.

I suspect disabling the immobiliser means you vehicle fails to comply to the ADRs, but then again I doubt it ever gets tested or even if it can be tested.

[POD]

Reasonably common problem, a broken wire in one of the back door looms will short the central locking, blow the fuse under the driver's seat which prevents the immobiliser de-activating. A very minor issue if you know about the fuse, almost resulted in a tow for me early this year, LR dealer was no help, Aulro search solved the problem. Only discovered the broken wire some time later, easily fixed.

[The Cone of Silence]

I also have a 2008 110 and this happened to me over the weekend.

The first time,I was at a servo just outside Lithgow and had just filled up, then drive the car to deflate the tyres while waiting for the other guys to do the same.

All the lights came on when in ignition position 2 but on pushing to position 3, there was no turnover of the engine. I tried again and no luck, then the third time it worked.

Two days later I was up at Mt Victoria and stopped in to reinflate tyres. Having done so, same situation....only this time it definitely wasn't coming to the party. I called LR Roadside Assist and they had a chap on the way but then checked AULRO and saw that it could be as simple as a battery change. As I was at the servo I bought a battery but before I went through the above procedure, I read in a different thread that someone managed to get theirs going by simply locking and unlocking the car a few times.

As the battery in the fob was obviously very tired, i couldn't get this to work, so I simply used the keys in the door. Lock, Unlock. Lock, unlock. Try ignition.....presto!!

Got back home. Changed battery. Happy Monty, happy Bobby.