Oil Change on the LT95

[Aussie Jeepster]

I'm going to embark on an oil change on the transmission, transfer case and PTO of my Perentie (Angus).
Are there any tips I need before starting? Anything special I need to know?
I'm going with castrol syntrans 75/85, valvoline duragear 75/85, Castrol VMX, Penrite HPR30 or nulon semi synthetic 10w40 high performance engine oil. Depends what I can find and where.

[rar110]

I recently changed to penrite in the transfer case from rx super. It's noticeably better. The RX super was only about 10,000 km old.

[Aussie Jeepster]

When I looked, the only Penrite HPR30 I could see was something like 10w60 or similar!
Seemed a bit odd, so went with Nulon Semi Syn 15W30.
If I need to change it out in the near future I will go with something better. I really just want to put in a "known" oil, rather than wonder how much, and what type is in it now!
Hoping to get it road worthied this week, so I'm just tidying up some loose ends.
Now to find drain and filler plugs:D

[101RRS]

Why make it harder than it needs to be - just use a good 20W40/50 engine oil all round as is recommended by the manufacturer.

People who play around with other oils often then have issues - engine oil works fine.

The gearbox oil filler is on the passenger half way up - drain on the bottom. Fill to the bottom of the filler hole.

Trf case filler is at the back half way up just to the left of the brake drum - however there is also a filler on the top of the tfr case at the back but you will need to also to have the the filler at the back removed as it is also the level. Drain at the bottom as usual.

Garry

[Aussie Jeepster]

Thanks Garry - am off to crawl under it now.
I did have a Disco with the LT77 so will be curious to see how much differenter it is!!!!!

[Bearman]

You will find the t/case drain bung on your model with the pto setup is on the front of the pto unit just under the shaft drive flange. The big bung just like the gearbox drain bung. Dont use the rear bung as bugger all will come out of it and it will take ages to drain.

[Aussie Jeepster]

OK, all good so far - sort of:mad:
Discovered the reason for the leak from the rear diff filler plug - some over zealous mechanic over tightened it and now it won't do up tight. I'll sort it temporarily with some ptfe tape and I guess I'll replace the rear diff cover.
Found the filler plugs without any issues (why can't they all be the same size socket?????!!!) and figured the big plug on the rear of the PTO might be something to do with the shaft so undid the one on the lower forward face and out it gushed! The gearbox was even easier, plus I discovered there is a plastic filter in the bottom of the gearbox which I've cleaned.
The oil which came out did not look too bad, and it certainly didn't smell like gear oil, so I'm thinking all will be good on this one.
Now for the slow task of pumping the new oil in :(

[rust]

why can't they all be the same size socket?????!!!

EXACTLY

[Mick_Marsh]

EXACTLY
Designed by two different departments.

[Aussie Jeepster]

For the last 4 years I have owned a Jeep Wrangler which has been serviced by the local dealers (for better or for worse - another story!).
I had forgotten the joys of lying under a dusty vehicle, undoing plugs and having sand drop in my face, and then removing the skin on various parts of my knuckles and arms.
But it all felt better when I felt the warm oil running down my arm as the plug came out, then dropped into the oil pan for me to fish out later.:mad:
Then there is the fun of mopping up the inevitable oil spills when the wind blew and blew the stream of oil away from the oil pan.
But all of that pales into insignificance when you start pumping the little hand pump to get the oil up into the gearbox or transfer case.
I had forgotten I had some muscles in my arms and hands that can work the pump while lying at some idiotic angle under the chassis.
And, just as you are about to give up, the oil flows from the filler hole into your face as the wind just blew in a different direction!:censored:
Ah, it's fun getting back to owning a Land Rover :D
Some photos attached to help others in their search for knowledge.

[101RRS]

Much easier in a 101 - just lift the cargo area floor and fill everything from above - just pour in ;)

[paulak]

Gday, Just drained gearbox and transfer case.
Problem is the Tcase drain hole is cross threaded/flogged out.
Can I replace this plate or re thread it?
Thanks.
Paul.

[DeeJay]

Gday, Just drained gearbox and transfer case.
Problem is the Tcase drain hole is cross threaded/flogged out.
Can I replace this plate or re thread it?
Thanks.
Paul.


Find a wrecker of old Range Rovers and buy a replacement plate. All LT 95's have the same transfer cover plate.
Maybe Bearman ( Brian) has one available??
BTW, Its not a good idea to post a problem in to a thread like this, you would have had a far better/quicker response doing a new post.

[tony66_au]

FYI, 83 Rangie LT95.
Best results with the 20-60 Penrite HPR-30
Mineral oil, NOT friction modified and as you cant get Molybond additive anymore it seems the high Zinc content of the HPR 30 makes a big difference too.

The results?
First drain and fill of both Tfer and Gearbox.

Lazy syncromesh issues gone
Up shift smooth
Downshift way better with or without a blip shift #CozHabit
Running noise almost gone.

Oh and the reason why the plugs are often worn or flogged out is because if you go wading through water at the end of the day its wise to check for water in non water places coz Yoplait isnt just french for Yoghurt, Its also Swearineese for Blow head gasket and Gearbox lay and mainshaft bearing rebuild. :-)

[wpalmo]

I have been using Castrol RX Super Diesel for engine, gearbox/transfer case since picking up my Perentie in 2014 from the disposal auctions.
I change the engine oil every 10 000 Km’s. Pretty good oil in my opinion and if you buy it when it is on special in the 20 litre drums, a good price too!
As Major Leslie James Hiddins AM said,
Keep It Simple Stupid or KISS for short but I appreciate learning how these other oils go in the gearbox/transfer case as far as ease of use and longevity of oil degradation and also protection from wear on the internals.
Thanks for creating the post.
Regards Warrick.

[p38arover]

Gday, Just drained gearbox and transfer case.
Problem is the Tcase drain hole is cross threaded/flogged out.
Can I replace this plate or re thread it?
Thanks.
Paul.

I know this is a 7 year old post but, just in case, replacements are available new (but not cheap!):
LT95 Transfer Case Bottom Plate (Machined) - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/lt95-transfer-case-bottom-plate-machined/)

You'd need the gasket, too: LT95 Transfer Case/PTO Bottom Gasket - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/lt95-bottom-gasket/)

[Hellonwheels]

I’m noticing my transfer oil is quite sparkly after only 2000 klicks, been changing it quite regularly as a result. Using 15/40 RxSuper for last few years, but worried the box will Chernobyl if I don’t keep changing it. Most like thrust washer material as it’s bronze not silver….is this common for the LT95?

[101RRS]

If you do not use engine oil - yes. But I googled 15/40 RxSuper and I would say that should be OK for it. If you have bronze specs then a bit of a worry.

Has the box been rebuilt recently?

[Hellonwheels]

If you do not use engine oil - yes. But I googled 15/40 RxSuper and I would say that should be OK for it. If you have bronze specs then a bit of a worry.

Has the box been rebuilt recently?

No, I’ve had the car for nearly 10 years, bought it in second round of auctions. Logbooks show several gearbox changes, so shouldn’t have too many kms on it. Most likely material from centre diff thrust washers. I’m not equipped for an overhaul where I am…going to be sometime before I have access to my tools. Will keep changing oil until then I suppose.

[101RRS]

Hopefully Bearman will be along to provide some input for you.

[p38arover]

Is a multi-grade oil suitable or should it be monograde?

[Bearman]

No, I’ve had the car for nearly 10 years, bought it in second round of auctions. Logbooks show several gearbox changes, so shouldn’t have too many kms on it. Most likely material from centre diff thrust washers. I’m not equipped for an overhaul where I am…going to be sometime before I have access to my tools. Will keep changing oil until then I suppose.

I think you have hit the nail on the head. A bronzy sheen will indicate thust washer wear inside the centre diff. As long as you don't have too much backlash in the unit it should last a while until you can get around to rectify it.

[Hellonwheels]

I think you have hit the nail on the head. A bronzy sheen will indicate thust washer wear inside the centre diff. As long as you don't have too much backlash in the unit it should last a while until you can get around to rectify it.

Thankyou for that, puts my mind a little at ease, there doesn’t seem to be much if any backlash. I can remove the centre diff unit in situ…( just got to remember to lock it first!) and replace the thrust washers and bearings as required. Who would be best parts supplier in your opinion?

[Bearman]

Thankyou for that, puts my mind a little at ease, there doesn’t seem to be much if any backlash. I can remove the centre diff unit in situ…( just got to remember to lock it first!) and replace the thrust washers and bearings as required. Who would be best parts supplier in your opinion?

Give me a yell when you get around to doing it. I am near Mackay and should have any bits you need for a centre diff rebuild.

[Hellonwheels]

Give me a yell when you get around to doing it. I am near Mackay and should have any bits you need for a centre diff rebuild.

Will do. Probably a few months yet. All my tools in storage down in Cairns still. But appreciate your assistance.

[Hellonwheels]

Give me a yell when you get around to doing it. I am near Mackay and should have any bits you need for a centre diff rebuild.
About to get started on this centre diff job. Have ordered some Loctite 277 for diff bolts and I noticed the Army had a blue silicone like goop on gaskets, would you know what that is and recommend I use it when bolting everything back up? This gearbox/transfer doesn’t leak a drop of oil, cleanest Landrover gearbox I’ve ever had in fact.