Traxide, spotlights and a genuine switch

[Leyland1980]

I have just wired up a pair of HID spotlights using the traxide kit. As I have used the negatively switched genuine LR driving light switch (the one with the 2 on it). I used the diagram below (sourced on Aulro) to wire it up rather than the standard configuration.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/376.jpg

The functionality I was aiming for was the spot lights to only come on if the high beam was on. what I actually get is the HIDs coming on when their switch is on and highbeam is switched on at the stalk but the headlights go out. the switch functions fine with illumination and orange telltale working fine.

Also often one of the HIDS does not light up, both flicker initially and then one stays on steady although sometimes both do work. Weird.

Any suggestions?

Cheers

John

[Drover]

I've had Hellas Rallye 4000 HID's for about 4 years. I have never experienced the flickering or only one starting.

They do take a couple of second to reach full power as they warm up when first turned on. Mine are also wired by the local auto sparky so they only can be used with the high beam.

[manofaus]

not knowing the internals of the relays that you are using.... I assume(arrgh)..

You should be using the 12v from your battery to your driving light relay to power your driving lights, not the feed from the high beam.

[Boris_law]

Your blue wire should go to the S1 terminal on the headlight relay and the yellow wire should go to the S1 terminal on the driving light relay, remove the direct connection between these terminals as it is achieved when the switch is depressed, also the S terminals of the relays should be connected together.

[drivesafe]

Hi John and this diagram should help you.

Use the connects for the switch at the top of the diagram for the connections in your switch.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/368.jpg

[Leyland1980]

Thanks for all the input.

I am afraid it was a question of keep it simple.

The high beam was not working due to a blown fuse and the flickering/not lighting was due to having run the battery down testing the lights! I only had 8 volts across the relay. After a push start and a quick spin and it's all good.

The diagram I used was correct for the genuine LR switch which I believe is negative switching.

Cheers all.

[muddy]

Can someone please clarify

As from post 1 pin 4 is earth
pin 5 is the feed back from relay
appears from a manual and makes electrical sense

The diagram i got when I purchased a driving light switch from Mulgo has
pin 4 as feedback (signal to relay/aux )
pin 5 as earth
causes a reverse orange indication

Has any who has purchased a switch from Mulgo used pins 4/5 as per his instructions worked?

[PaulMc0308]

Can someone please clarify

As from post 1 pin 4 is earth
pin 5 is the feed back from relay
appears from a manual and makes electrical sense

The diagram i got when I purchased a driving light switch from Mulgo has
pin 4 as feedback (signal to relay/aux )
pin 5 as earth
causes a reverse orange indication

Has any who has purchased a switch from Mulgo used pins 4/5 as per his instructions worked?


The Mulgo switches are (I think) based on Defender Puma heated seat switches, which are wired differently to the factory spotlights switch.

See my reply, here - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2171306#post2171306



Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/756.jpg

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