View Full Version : EAS woes- can't find the leak
secco
2nd July 2014, 02:16 AM
Folks my P38 EAS settles to the bump stops overnight.
I have replaced the rear Airbags with OEM Dunlop units -still leaks.
I then Put T junctions on each of the four Airbag lines to the wheels, and schrader valves on a plate so that I could individually inflate/deflate and monitor presure on each wheel. At the same time I put taps between the wheel lines and the valve block. Out of all that, I ascertained that the airbags and lines are good - so I bough and fitted an overhaul kit for the valve block. The system still leaked. So assuming the valve block might still be faulty I purchased/fitted a second hand valve block from the UK - still leaks. The guy before me had installed a non-standard Boss px02 air pump which seems like a good unit. Unfortunately he had butchered the EAS box to fit the pump. I purchased /fitted a second hand box and mounted the pump down near the spare wheel. It seems to work OK but the noise is a bit louder - particularly as the pump runs a lot. I just today noted that when the pump is running a small amount of air is leaking from the exhaust silencer port. None seems to come out the exhaust port when the pump is not running. I have tried soapy water ,but cannot pick up any leaks. Any advice would be appreciated. cheers, Ian
poleonpom
2nd July 2014, 05:11 AM
Hi Ian
I too have suffered from EAS (experiencing asinine suspension) and your perseverance does you credit.
To test whether it is a system leak or just the system automatically lowering your car, have you removed the timer under the passenger seat? This disables the system so if you find your car on bump stops then you know you have a leak.
If the car is still.settling on all 4 bump stops after the timer removal then, in my mind, points to either airline connection failure (some of my lines became grooved due to the Schrader valves biting) or the exhaust valve leaking. The exhaust valve can leak under the swith cap, loosen off the holding screws and if you hear a.pop then you have the culprit.
Let us know how you get on with the timer removal
Jonathan
davidsonsm
2nd July 2014, 05:29 AM
It points to another leak(s). I ended up making some soapy water with pink food dye and corn starch to make more visible bubbles. Someone recommended painting the liquid on rather than spraying. Assume you've sprayed the exhaust and all around the solenoid valves?
I think I ended up rebuilding 3 valve blocks about ten times in total, all to get a level steady car. Scant consolation, but it's worth it. I ended up buying a pack of 10mm x 1mm O rings, because I had problems seating them on the valve stem without crimping them. Most of my problems were caused by that issue. I also had dodgy non- return valves.
Keep at it.
secco
2nd July 2014, 04:59 PM
Hi Ian
I too have suffered from EAS (experiencing asinine suspension) and your perseverance does you credit.
To test whether it is a system leak or just the system automatically lowering your car, have you removed the timer under the passenger seat? This disables the system so if you find your car on bump stops then you know you have a leak.
If the car is still.settling on all 4 bump stops after the timer removal then, in my mind, points to either airline connection failure (some of my lines became grooved due to the Schrader valves biting) or the exhaust valve leaking. The exhaust valve can leak under the swith cap, loosen off the holding screws and if you hear a.pop then you have the culprit.
Let us know how you get on with the timer removal
Jonathan
Jonathan,
Thanks for the idea. I'll try removing the timer tonight.
cheers, Ian
secco
2nd July 2014, 05:02 PM
It points to another leak(s). I ended up making some soapy water with pink food dye and corn starch to make more visible bubbles. Someone recommended painting the liquid on rather than spraying. Assume you've sprayed the exhaust and all around the solenoid valves?
I think I ended up rebuilding 3 valve blocks about ten times in total, all to get a level steady car. Scant consolation, but it's worth it. I ended up buying a pack of 10mm x 1mm O rings, because I had problems seating them on the valve stem without crimping them. Most of my problems were caused by that issue. I also had dodgy non- return valves.
Keep at it.
David,
That makes sense. I suspect I'll be revisiting the valve blocks.
cheers, ian
daf11e
5th July 2014, 12:50 PM
I think checking the diaphram in the valve block is worth a try if it's leaking from the exhaust silencer.
poleonpom
6th July 2014, 09:22 AM
Hi Ian
How.did you go?
FANTOM P38
10th July 2014, 07:22 PM
another often overlooked source of leakage is the tips on the end of solenoid stems.
Place stem in end of pedestal drill & using very fine emery paper 1200 grit or similar give them a very light touch up to remove any fine grooves that could cause leakage! Just a thought:angel: I know they can be frustrating but once sorted so satisfying;)
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