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4X4V8
3rd July 2014, 06:38 PM
I am not far away from (finally) buying a P38A.

I am trying to get my head around what is required for relatively hassle-free ownership.

I was thinking:

A Nanocom;
Schreider valves in the EAS as documented in various locations;
What else?

I want to build a vehicle that I can tow a caravan anywhere in Australia and fix the RR as required on the road.

davidsonsm
3rd July 2014, 07:10 PM
Top of mind jobs to establish a baseline would be:

EAS overhaul, which depending on its current state could include new air springs, valve block rebuild and compressor rebuild.

I'd change all fluids and filters. Ideally you'd want replace all hoses and belts to. New battery. Grease the UJs. Check the alternator. I'd fit an extra coolant - temp or level or both. I'd also recommend a EAS isolation switch on the delay timer under the passenger seat.

Steve farmer on here has a link to his list of jobs completed so far. Check it out. It'll provide a pretty thorough list of things to tick off.

Hoges
3rd July 2014, 09:06 PM
what size caravan? Lest I be offered up as sacrifice ... you might be better off towing with a D2 V8 :angel::wasntme:

Keithy P38
4th July 2014, 01:05 AM
Hoges - wash your mouth out with soap!

My advice would be to buy time.

Buy a well serviced P38, get to know it, then make everything new (or as-new). Then take one front and rear bag as spares, a bypass kit is advised (but not essential - I've got one but it's not fitted after 5yrs of P38 ownership), make sure you have a good alternator and battery, then tow until you run out of fuel or funds (whichever occurs first).

Number 1 P38 rule is voltage.

Number 2 P38 rule is air (operation/condition and pressure).

Number 3 P38 rule is cooling system.

Number 4 P38 rule is Drive!

Cheers
Keithy

TheTree
4th July 2014, 09:54 AM
Hi

This page

Service Programme (http://p38.hts.com.au/service_programme.html)

and this page

Steve's P38A Range Rover Project (http://p38.hts.com.au/rangie_project.html)

May be of some help ;)

Steve

redandy3575
4th July 2014, 11:20 AM
All that is already mentioned

I'd check for things like whining differentials, oil leaks at the wheel bearings, coolant leaks under dash ( could be the dreaded o-rings ). Check hi and low range in case the vehicle hasn't seen dirt. Most important of all, ask what type of oil has been used. A caring owner should know.

davidsonsm
4th July 2014, 11:44 AM
It'll be a well cared for example if the headlight wash wiper blades are in good condition (assuming HSE). And the handbrake gator isn't cracked i.e. its been replaced. All you need to look for. :p

Hoges
4th July 2014, 12:38 PM
There are two versions of the P38a.. those often referred to as a "GEMS" model (General Engine Management System) and those (post mid 1999) known as the "Thor" (Bosch) version. The switch over was VIN....Xa410481(Last of the GEMS) ....Xa410482 (first of the Bosch). This reflected the "upgrade" of the V8 engine (not more power)... accompanied by 4-pin diffs, a revised WABCO ABS system, a revised ZF gearbox (4HP24) and sundry other "improvements".

Given their age, you would probably do better to find a later model (1999-2002). The 2001/2002 run-out models appear to have been imported with the high compression engines (9.1:1) which are somewhat more sprightly than the low compression versions (8.37:1).

Some later model D2s came with the high compression 4.6 V8. Also the D2 has more effective room in the back for storing stuff. The classic look of the Rangie with its sloping tail gate is "nice" but somewhat impractical for packing and installing drawer systems etc.

With a late model D2 you may have a better power to weight ratio which will assist in the towing department.

as for other issues I agree with the previous posters:angel:;)

4X4V8
5th July 2014, 05:21 PM
There are two versions of the P38a.. those often referred to as a "GEMS" model (General Engine Management System) and those (post mid 1999) known as the "Thor" (Bosch) version. The switch over was VIN....Xa410481(Last of the GEMS) ....Xa410482 (first of the Bosch). This reflected the "upgrade" of the V8 engine (not more power)... accompanied by 4-pin diffs, a revised WABCO ABS system, a revised ZF gearbox (4HP24) and sundry other "improvements".

Given their age, you would probably do better to find a later model (1999-2002). The 2001/2002 run-out models appear to have been imported with the high compression engines (9.1:1) which are somewhat more sprightly than the low compression versions (8.37:1).

Some later model D2s came with the high compression 4.6 V8. Also the D2 has more effective room in the back for storing stuff. The classic look of the Rangie with its sloping tail gate is "nice" but somewhat impractical for packing and installing drawer systems etc.

With a late model D2 you may have a better power to weight ratio which will assist in the towing department.

as for other issues I agree with the previous posters:angel:;)

I thought the D2 was 4.0 only in Aus??? In the USA, 4.6 yes, (I think) but not here. Do tell...

4X4V8
5th July 2014, 05:34 PM
In addition, I have owned two D2s, both 1999 models, both V8s, one auto, one manual.

So I have been there, done that. I want a P38A update, that's all there is to it.

The only slight problem is that my XJ Cherokee is, it seems, worth 3/5th of nothing. So I want to see what cash I can get out of it, before I buy my dream car (A P38A update).

wayneg
5th July 2014, 05:45 PM
It'll be a well cared for example if the headlight wash wiper blades are in good condition (assuming HSE). And the handbrake gator isn't cracked i.e. its been replaced. All you need to look for. :p

It takes 5 mins with a pair of side cutters to trim any wiper refill to fit both headlight wipers. Find an old screen wiper and just cut a good section out, free and saves the planet. Sorry but not a very good sign of good maintenance. I look for the plenum foam on the air intake, a vast majority of cars I look at have none left. $3 to fix but a bit of effort involved

davidsonsm
5th July 2014, 07:05 PM
Wayne - was meant to be a throw away tongue in cheek comment. But there is some truth to it. The plenum filter is also a good indicator. If these things check out, it's a pretty good start point. Of course, you gotta do the due diligence, but if those three things were bang on, I bet the rest of the car would be pretty sorted.

Scouse
5th July 2014, 07:33 PM
There are two versions of the P38a.. those often referred to as a "GEMS" model (General Engine Management System) and those (post mid 1999) known as the "Thor" (Bosch) version. The switch over was VIN....Xa410481(Last of the GEMS) ....Xa410482 (first of the Bosch). This reflected the "upgrade" of the V8 engine (not more power)... accompanied by 4-pin diffs, a revised WABCO ABS system, a revised ZF gearbox (4HP24) and sundry other "improvements".

Given their age, you would probably do better to find a later model (1999-2002). The 2001/2002 run-out models appear to have been imported with the high compression engines (9.1:1) which are somewhat more sprightly than the low compression versions (8.37:1).

Some later model D2s came with the high compression 4.6 V8. Also the D2 has more effective room in the back for storing stuff. The classic look of the Rangie with its sloping tail gate is "nice" but somewhat impractical for packing and installing drawer systems etc.

With a late model D2 you may have a better power to weight ratio which will assist in the towing department.

as for other issues I agree with the previous posters:angel:;)The Thor came out with the introduction of the 1999MY cars. The last Gems was WA410481 - W indicating 1998MY.


All 4.6 P38s had the 4HP24 gearbox too.


I thought the D2 was 4.0 only in Aus??? In the USA, 4.6 yes, (I think) but not here. Do tell...Correct, only 4.0 here. The last P38s 4.6s were high compression but I'm not sure the D2s were.

derpomz
6th July 2014, 08:16 AM
I am not far away from (finally) buying a P38A.

I am trying to get my head around what is required for relatively hassle-free ownership.

I was thinking:

A Nanocom;
Schreider valves in the EAS as documented in various locations;
What else?

I want to build a vehicle that I can tow a caravan anywhere in Australia and fix the RR as required on the road.


I bought mine to drive, not to be a show pony. I read all these stories on this site about what can go wrong, but never about what doesnt. Why spend all the money on stuff you may never use and just because somebody here says you need one. If it brakes down so be it, get it fixed and dont worry about it.Mine has a few cosmetic issues, but they will get fixed, i dont panic about it. I am learning every day more abou mine.

Just get one and enjoy it.

4X4V8
6th July 2014, 08:47 PM
Yes, I just need to buy one! It is interesting to see how cheap pre-update cars have become, while the update (visually, so 2000-2001) still command big bucks. I have wasted enough damn bandwidth here. I'll report next time only when I own one. Thanks so much guys for such valuable input.

Hoges
7th July 2014, 04:08 PM
Fair enough!;) ...and good luck with your quest. Given you will be towing a van, a long range (replacement) tank (~155L) might be a good idea.
cheers