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steveG
5th July 2014, 10:57 AM
Whats the best glue/sealant to use to fit the old style vent seals that attach to the bulkhead.

I've read of people using contact adhesive, but I can see getting a long wriggly rubber seal in the right spot with contact is going to be tricky.
I've got some Sikaflex 227 here, and was thinking it might be better to fit them using that, and just wedge the vent closed for a couple of days while it all sets in the right position.

Any ideas?

Steve

jboot51
5th July 2014, 11:06 AM
I used contact paste, and then finished off with black windscreen sealant

uninformed
5th July 2014, 07:55 PM
I used Sikaflex 10 or more years ago. Still as good as day one. The seals are not, and the vents have flexed due to the lighter gauge of the defender type and the early rubber seal being thicker etc. Basicaly they leak air when fully shut.

steveG
5th July 2014, 08:59 PM
I used Sikaflex 10 or more years ago. Still as good as day one. The seals are not, and the vents have flexed due to the lighter gauge of the defender type and the early rubber seal being thicker etc. Basicaly they leak air when fully shut.

Thanks, I think that's the way I'm going to go. Too many frustrated hours involving rubber seals and contact in the past.
Did you just bed them in Sikaflex and leave to cure with the vents shut?

I didn't know that the defender ones were lighter gauge flaps. What I did notice today was that the small angle brackets on the flaps themselves are different between Defender and my 120. The 120 ones have the hole for the control lever in the end of the bracket, whereas the Defender ones have the hole half way down the bracket (meaning the Defender ones have less force on the flap). Meant to take a photo but forgot...

Steve

landy
5th July 2014, 10:35 PM
I don't mean to hi-jack your thread SteveG but does anyone know if there is an advantage to fitting the older style vent seals to a newer Defender?
I have some older seals and they look to be more substantial than those fitted as standard. As mine leaks air and possibly water ( of course they do!!) I was thinking that I would fit the older style seals and hopefully improve the water fastness. I'm hoping that the newer seals are only fitted because they are cheaper.

Cheers all.

jboot51
6th July 2014, 05:42 AM
The old seals on the bulkhead are rubber.
The new seal that goes on the flap are foam stuck on with tape.


The new seals will probably last 10 years anyway. If I was to do it again, I'd go new style, just for the ease of install.

rick130
6th July 2014, 05:56 AM
The new foam seals with double sided tape last at least ten years IME but the double sided tape is crap.

I replaced one two weeks ago and the tape had failed on the new one !

I had to peel it all off and used contact adhesive.
I've used contact adhesive in the past when the tape had failed in use.

No more air leaks from the vents !

jimr1
7th July 2014, 10:11 PM
The seals on mine were shot , I used duct seal , that's the robber/foam that plumbers use too seal between ducting , comes on rolls and has a sticky surface on one side , I took the vents off put the new seals on , works a treat , If you know any plumbers that use It ask for a bit off a roll , you only need just over a meter !!..cheers Jim...:)

isuzurover
7th July 2014, 11:13 PM
I used sikaflex and pegs or small welding clamps to hold the seal in place until cured.

steveG
8th July 2014, 11:56 AM
Thanks everyone. Have fitted them with some Sikaflex, and they seem to be held snugly in place just with the control levers. Will leave them closed for a few days until it cures properly.

Steve

mattmac
30th March 2016, 07:31 AM
I replaced my air vent seals on my perentie which were leaking-decided to use the older-type rubber seals as had some in stock - thought they'd make for a better seal but after fitting them find it difficult to close the vent and leak is worse than before-not a happy camper:-( Might have to rip them out and use the newer self adhesive ones.