Dummies guide to Defender Electrics

[sagrudd]

My 2012 SE Defender is now 18 months old and it is now (an overdue) time for me to start making an awesome truck even better. In the coming weeks I intend to install an exbox and some auxillary electrics to power a rear worklight, a pair of roof mount lightbars and a couple of arduino projects.

If I mount a fuse and relay in the exbox, what would the recommended cable path be from the dash mounted switch to the exbox? I was looking at heading through a grommet on the bulkhead, down under the floor and back up under the propshaft channel. Is this the "sensible way" or is there an easier solution that I have overlooked?

Thanks for the advice

Stephen

[weeds]

and a couple of arduino projects.


can you explain arduino? i'm a little lost

[sagrudd]

the arduino electrics are peripheral to the wiring question - Arduino is a hobbyist system for microcontroller based interaction with sensors - my first project is an inside / outside temperature / battery voltage display. This doesn't require much in the way of wire pulling - but will be written up in due course

[vnx205]

Arduino - HomePage (http://arduino.cc/)

[Grappler]

My 2012 SE Defender is now 18 months old and it is now (an overdue) time for me to start making an awesome truck even better. In the coming weeks I intend to install an exbox and some auxillary electrics to power a rear worklight, a pair of roof mount lightbars and a couple of arduino projects.

If I mount a fuse and relay in the exbox, what would the recommended cable path be from the dash mounted switch to the exbox? I was looking at heading through a grommet on the bulkhead, down under the floor and back up under the propshaft channel. Is this the "sensible way" or is there an easier solution that I have overlooked?

Thanks for the advice

Stephen


That grommet in the firewall is the way to go, when running cables to the dash. When you remove the plastic flap below the passenger "glove box", you can get into the inside of the grommet, with a bit of wrist contortion. There is some sound insulation which needs pushing aside. Dont trim the grommet cone any more than necessary as this is a classic water ingress point.

From there you are best to cable tie to the existing loom which runs on the outside of the frame in Pumas. I recently hardwired a reversing camera, and power distribution to the rear and ran that path. I put the cables in split corrugated conduit

Arduino is cool if you are interested in DIY prototyping projects. For out of the box monitoring checkout Ultragauge

[p38arover]

Firstly, you need this book from the AULRO Shop:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=80242&stc=1&d=1404970099