Drilling the bar for lights...?

[winaje]

Hi all, I want to mount my Fyrlyts (http://fyrlyt.com) on my front bar, as it's going to be a while until I get an OL winch bar. So, is there any risk to just measuring and running a few increasing sized drills through the bar skin and into the (I assume) metal subframe? Any cables that run in the area etc?

Thanks

[sheerluck]

Got a picture of where and how you're intending to mount them Will?

If you're talking about drilling through the plastic bumper skin in front of the grille, then underneath is the headlamp washer tubes. From memory the fog light and parking sensor harnesses go a little lower.

However, the metal reinforcer for the bumper is quite low, you won't reach it with a standard drill bit I don't think

[winaje]

Yep, in front of the grille, unsure exactly where, was hoping to hit a good thick metal section just under the skin. Don't have front sensors.

[nat_89]

Interested to!

[Basil135]

You could always use an Aunger mount that bolts behind the number plate.

http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/pix/lightbar1.jpg

May not be ideal, but could get you out of trouble.

[sniegy]

Dont drill anything Will,
There is a 3-4 inch gap from the top of the plastic bumper to a "Metal" surface.

Cheers

[winaje]

Thanks Pete, I knew you'd pop up with the info. So where do I mount them without buying a bar or A bar?

[nat_89]

Dont drill anything Will,
There is a 3-4 inch gap from the top of the plastic bumper to a "Metal" surface.

Cheers

Hey Sneigy how do they do it when you see the Land Rover ones with lights mounted on the bumper can you shed some light plz haha no pun intended.

[winaje]

You could always use an Aunger mount that bolts behind the number plate.

http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/pix/lightbar1.jpg

May not be ideal, but could get you out of trouble.

Thanks for the idea Basil, personally I'm a bit wary of risking $550 of lights on something that small...

[jon3950]

Hey Sneigy how do they do it when you see the Land Rover ones with lights mounted on the bumper can you shed some light plz haha no pun intended.

Topix is your friend. Here are the fitting instructions for the LR kit:

LAF0303_1E - Driving Lamp Kit VPLAV0021 & VPLAV0098 | TOPIx (http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/content/document/view?id=422719&groupId=1662)

Cheers,
Jon

[winaje]

Jon's instructions are for a D4.... D3 instructions for the mounting supports inside the bumper are here VUU500110 mounting instructions (https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/content/document/view?id=70483&groupId=1662)

From what I can see though, the genuine mounts with the dress trim on top of the bumper will be way too small to mount the large foot for the Fyrlyts....

[nat_89]

Topix is your friend. Here are the fitting instructions for the LR kit:

LAF0303_1E - Driving Lamp Kit VPLAV0021 & VPLAV0098 | TOPIx (http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/content/document/view?id=422719&groupId=1662)

Cheers,
Jon

Ahh thank you very much for that! I don't wanna fit massive fyrlyts just some smallish led lights.

[jon3950]

From what I can see though, the genuine mounts with the dress trim on top of the bumper will be way too small to mount the large foot for the Fyrlyts....

You can make up a bracket to sit on top of the LR mounts, something like they did on the millionth discovery:

DISCO4.COM - View topic - Auxiliary lights for D4 (http://www.disco4.com/forum/topic77351-30.html)

The principle is the same for both 3 and 4.

Cheers,
Jon

[dindsy]

has anyone actually bought these lights as a kit from LR. Are they any good? how much?
can you just buy the mounting kit and get your own lights?

[winaje]

has anyone actually bought these lights as a kit from LR. Are they any good? how much?
can you just buy the mounting kit and get your own lights?

I didn't like the look of the mounting kits too much, was going to fabricate a mounting bracket that was sturdy to bolt in the same spots as the LR brackets, but with triangle bracing etc. However I ended up getting an excellent price on an OL bar :twisted: so will not be pursuing this angle.

The LR part for a D3 is VUU500110. I can upload the fitting instructions if you want to have a look?

[dindsy]

Thanks Will but mine is a D4 and I had a look at the Topix instructions.


How much is an excellent price. Since mine is a 2010 maybe they want to get rid of some more :D

[winaje]

...How much is an excellent price...

It was about 75% of retail, but a one off for a bar that had been sitting there for a year and basically forgotten about.

[dindsy]

SO what I need to do is go into an OL shop and stack boxes in front of a suitable bar then go back in 6 months and say hey....whats this :)


BTW I got a quote for LR driving lights. They are $1100 and the mounts $300.

[winaje]

BTW I got a quote for LR driving lights. They are $1100 and the mounts $300.
For that price you would come close to an OL bar. Or you could use the mounts and buy a set of Fyrlyt Driving Lights (http://www.fyrlyt.com) and waaay outshine any genuine lights by miles

[dindsy]

For that price you would come close to an OL bar. Or you could use the mounts and buy a set of Fyrlyt Driving Lights (http://www.fyrlyt.com) and waaay outshine any genuine lights by miles

that's the way I'm thinking as well. The fyrlyts that is. With the bar I still need to buy lights.

[dindsy]

OK, so new problem. I just had a look at the dimensions of the Lightforce lights. I can find specific information on the Fyrlyts but they look similar.


The lights stick out backwards from the mounting bolt 70mm.
They won't fit on the bumper of the LR. so if you put the LR mounting brackets on you are limited in what you could mount which is probably the reason for the ordinary lights they sell.


I saw in this thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/166640-d4-lr-genuine-driving-lights.html that they are PIAA 80Pro XT. or at least they were back then. Those lights don't protrude backwards.


Anyone got any ideas for a better light that doesn't stick out far at the back.


cheers

[winaje]

Fyrlyts have a reversible mount, so the bolt that goes from mount to light can be positioned towards the front of the bar. From what I can remember this makes them a lot "flatter" at the back for mounting in a spot that hasn't got a lot of room behind. I'm at work at the moment, but can update the thread tonight with measurements etc. for the mount and light on the standard bar if you want?

[TerryO]

That would be good if you could put up the measurements thanks Will.

[letherm]

Thought a couple of pics of Fylyts in place might help. As you can see they extend about 45mm past the back of the mount.

HTH
Martin

http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/Fyrlyt_Extension.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/Fyrlyt_Extension1.jpg

[weeds]

OK, so new problem. I just had a look at the dimensions of the Lightforce lights. I can find specific information on the Fyrlyts but they look similar.


They do look similar as the same guy designed both lightforce and FYRLYT........FYRLYT came about as he thought he could design a better package.

I buy them for our work cars.....I didn't realize the mount could be reversed. I wouldn't mind a set but I just don't do enough night driving......my front bar come with a light bar which works well enough.

[dindsy]

Thanks for the pics. I still the the LR mounts through the bumper wouldn't be strong enough for lights that big.

[nat_89]

So does any one have FYRLYTS and have they had something else to compare them to and what do they think of them as opposed to LED or HID?

[winaje]

Thought a couple of pics of Fylyts in place might help. As you can see they extend about 45mm past the back of the mount.

HTH
Martin

http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/Fyrlyt_Extension.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/Fyrlyt_Extension1.jpg

These photos show the mounting foot with the light mounting hole at the rear. This places the back of the light further rearward. The foot can be turned around with the light mounting hole at the front, which will move the light futher forward and allow more clearance for a grille, but will protrude the light forward and make it the most forward part of the vehicle.


Thanks for the pics. I still the the LR mounts through the bumper wouldn't be strong enough for lights that big.
Bear in mind that even though they are fairly big, they are quite a bit smaller that Lightforce 240s or XGTs, and are very lightweight.

[letherm]

So does any one have FYRLYTS and have they had something else to compare them to and what do they think of them as opposed to LED or HID?


Haven't had LED or HID but had Rallye driving lights on my last car. The Fyrlyts are better than those IMO. One of the reasons I bought Fyrlyts was that all parts are replaceable including the front lens. Check out their web site for full info if you're interested. I hadn't heard of them before this forum but am happy with them. BTW they can be changed from driving to spot by turning the silver dial at the rear of the casing.

[Tombie]

So does any one have FYRLYTS and have they had something else to compare them to and what do they think of them as opposed to LED or HID?

No comparison :cool:

LED dont have the "punch" but are very bright up close.

HID are glare making machines at best... Delay as they fire up and produce a light much harsher to the eye.

Most people who do seriously long miles at night, suffer eye strain as the light from HID causes "startled" like behaviour in their eyes - its how we process the wavelength...

HID colour rendering also falls away as the bulbs age, so the light changes over time.

I've had 'Filament', HID, LED and now run Fyrlyt with a LED bar for slow work.

Wired properly Fyrlyt has got it sorted :cool:

[Tombie]

They do look similar as the same guy designed both lightforce and FYRLYT........FYRLYT came about as he thought he could design a better package.

Interesting version :cool: Not correct though ;)

[jon3950]

No comparison :cool:

LED dont have the "punch" but are very bright up close.

HID are glare making machines at best... Delay as they fire up and produce a light much harsher to the eye.

Most people who do seriously long miles at night, suffer eye strain as the light from HID causes "startled" like behaviour in their eyes - its how we process the wavelength...

HID colour rendering also falls away as the bulbs age, so the light changes over time.

I've had 'Filament', HID, LED and now run Fyrlyt with a LED bar for slow work.

Wired properly Fyrlyt has got it sorted :cool:

Never used Fyrlyts, but I agree with Tombie's comments about HID. However I still use them and prefer a combination of Halogen and HID - I'm not a big fan of LED.

The biggest mistake people make with HID is going too high up the temperature scale. Anything above 4300k is too blue and exacerbates the glare problem.

I like a combination of halogen for close-up and HID (4300k) for distance. Halogen light is definitely much easier on the eye and I find it gives better contrast than HID making detail easier to pick. This is also why I'm not big on LED - lots of light close-up, but again a bit harsh on the eye. I like the HID for distance, where definition is less important. However, my predominant use is on windy roads in forests. On highways, where there are a lot of reflective surfaces, glare becomes a problem.

All this is seat of the pants stuff, nothing scientific behind it - just what works for me. No lighting solution is the best for every situation and it's worth thinking about what your usage will be.

My usage and Tombie's would be very different, hence my preferred solution is different to his. At the moment, I don't run anything on the Disco, as the standard xenons work well enough for my current use.

Cheers,
Jon

[nat_89]

Haven't had LED or HID but had Rallye driving lights on my last car. The Fyrlyts are better than those IMO. One of the reasons I bought Fyrlyts was that all parts are replaceable including the front lens. Check out their web site for full info if you're interested. I hadn't heard of them before this forum but am happy with them. BTW they can be changed from driving to spot by turning the silver dial at the rear of the casing.


No comparison :cool:

LED dont have the "punch" but are very bright up close.

HID are glare making machines at best... Delay as they fire up and produce a light much harsher to the eye.

Most people who do seriously long miles at night, suffer eye strain as the light from HID causes "startled" like behaviour in their eyes - its how we process the wavelength...

HID colour rendering also falls away as the bulbs age, so the light changes over time.

I've had 'Filament', HID, LED and now run Fyrlyt with a LED bar for slow work.

Wired properly Fyrlyt has got it sorted :cool:


Thanks fellas just wanted an idea because i was talking to my dad about them and neither of us had heard of them until a few weeks ago on hear thats why i asked and i haven't seen them around on other cars yet either, which I'm led to believe they haven't been out all that long only a couple of years so thats probably why they are still getting their name out.

Dad and I both loved the idea that you can pull them all apart and service them and so forth as he has a set of Rallye 4000s on his truck now and they have gone milky behind and its a bit of work to get them apart and clean them, he also has a 40" led rigid industries bar on his truck which he loves and i did like how you can change them from spot to spread in one click.

Thanks for the feedback keen to know as haven't seem or heard much on them thats all.

[Redback]

No comparison :cool:

LED dont have the "punch" but are very bright up close.

HID are glare making machines at best... Delay as they fire up and produce a light much harsher to the eye.

Most people who do seriously long miles at night, suffer eye strain as the light from HID causes "startled" like behaviour in their eyes - its how we process the wavelength...

HID colour rendering also falls away as the bulbs age, so the light changes over time.

I've had 'Filament', HID, LED and now run Fyrlyt with a LED bar for slow work.

Wired properly Fyrlyt has got it sorted :cool:

My theory on this is the combination of HID and Halogen causes this, every time you go from one to the other, your eyes are continually adjusting to the different colour of light, I believe if both your lowbeam and spotties are the same(HID or Halogen) you won't get that, "startled" like behaviour, as you put it:D

Just my experiences from the travelling we do.

Baz.

[BMKal]

My theory on this is the combination of HID and Halogen causes this, every time you go from one to the other, your eyes are continually adjusting to the different colour of light, I believe if both your lowbeam and spotties are the same(HID or Halogen) you won't get that, "startled" like behaviour, as you put it:D

Just my experiences from the travelling we do.

Baz.

I'd agree with this. Have HID low beam on the D4 and HID driving lights and this combination works well for me. I converted the headlights on the D2 to HID for exactly this reason - it was very difficult to adjust the eyes from HID light on hi-beam to the old candlepower of low-beam before I upgraded to all HID.

Would still be keen to have a look at a set of these Fyrlyts working though. There's a lot I like about them, and don't doubt that they'd out-perform many of the HID driving lights out there on the market today. Doubt they'd be any better than the more reputable brands of HID lights though, except for price (think they're about half the cost of Hella Predators from what I've read).

I've never had any real problem with glare off road signs etc using HID - but then I stick with the lower kelvin ratings that are recommended for the job, rather than go for the highest possible "you beaut cool blue" output that the gullible ones fit to their vehicles.

[Tombie]

Without going into detail, on light output alone (and focal points etc) they out perform Hella Predators etc

[weeds]

Interesting version :cool: Not correct though ;)

Umm, pretty sure that's how the conversation went when I spoke to him.....I guess he might not have designed Lightforce?? Pretty certain he worked for lightforce.

[BMKal]

Without going into detail, on light output alone (and focal points etc) they out perform Hella Predators etc

Would love to see a real life comparison.

I remember hearing similar claims about certain Lightforce models when they were all the rage - and have seen those claims disproven more than once with my own eyes.

I agree too with your comment about HID globes losing their "colour" over time. The globes in my Predators eventually went off and were putting out a noticeably yellow light (this after about 10 years of use on a number of different vehicles). The price that Hella wanted for replacement globes resulted in the Predators coming off the bullbar and sitting in the bottom of a cupboard in the shed (where they still are). I've recently sourced a new pair of Hella globes through a work contact / supplier at an "attractive" ;) price, so they may end up back on the bar in the not too distant future.

Currently running Britax X-Ray Vision HID driving lights - they're not bad but not as good as the Hellas were (before they faded out). But the X-Ray Vision lights have nice big blue "halo" rings around the lenses - looks good and maybe makes them go faster ................ :o

But I've also had conventional halogen globes die off in quality / output over time on more than one occasion (after nowhere near as many hours as the HID's lasted for) - so I'm wondering if the Fyrlyt globes will be any different.

[nat_89]

I would love to see the FYRLYTs in action I agree everyone says they are awesome but I guess just hard to know until your blown away by them, much the same as you can rave all day about how great a D4 is and people will be like yeah yeah then take them for a drive that's when they fall in love haha.

I did like how easily they came apart and how serviceable they were that's unreal!!

[weeds]

I would love to see the FYRLYTs in action I agree everyone says they are awesome but I guess just hard to know until your blown away by them, much the same as you can rave all day about how great a D4 is and people will be like yeah yeah then take them for a drive that's when they fall in love haha.

I did like how easily they came apart and how serviceable they were that's unreal!!

Although I have brought them for work cars I have never compared them with others....as I really haven't had a set of quality driving lights. The lads who drive them day to day say they are better than the narva ones the fleet company fit.

We haven't needed to pull them apart not blown a bulb in 18 months to 2 years.

I would love to see them side by side with lightforce.

[Tombie]

Umm, pretty sure that's how the conversation went when I spoke to him.....I guess he might not have designed Lightforce?? Pretty certain he worked for lightforce.


Paul, David or Pete?

:D

Yes, all 3 worked at LF in varying capacities...

LF started at Cleve... By Ray, who still has LF...

[weeds]

Paul, David or Pete?

:D

Yes, all 3 worked at LF in varying capacities...

LF started at Cleve... By Ray, who still has LF...

It was Paul, I have an email from him asking for my mobile so that he could give us a call.......

it was back in April last year I was talking to him......and I have a shocking memory so my detail might be a little sketchy.

[nat_89]

Although I have brought them for work cars I have never compared them with others....as I really haven't had a set of quality driving lights. The lads who drive them day to day say they are better than the narva ones the fleet company fit.

We haven't needed to pull them apart not blown a bulb in 18 months to 2 years.

I would love to see them side by side with lightforce.

Ahh that's good to hear then yeah our work cars come with the cheapest of cheap Hellas haha. No fancy stuff for us.

[Tombie]

It was Paul, I have an email from him asking for my mobile so that he could give us a call.......

it was back in April last year I was talking to him......and I have a shocking memory so my detail might be a little sketchy.


You're not far off... :)

Paul was the CEO of LF and the saving grace of the company as it nearly went under back in the day.

Paul and others recognised a developing issue within LF and when the Owner refused to recognise the issues and over ride the Lead Team, the boys began to leave...