Bed Bugs 101

[bed_bug]

Fresh back from Hol's and admittedly armed with a bunch of other peoples pics I'm taking the opportunity to move right in here and start posting things bit by bit. Which will probably signify the complete halt of any progress on my 101.

At present it's at Trim technologies works and these pictures are just after they have made my new tilt and the pretty little hand brake gaiter. Which if LR had got them to make in the first place would have the same wear value as the one from the gear lever.

NOTE: The lack of side windows - I just wanted to fit in ! Nope it was a 3 day heatwave. 23c .


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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/790.jpg

[Sitec]

Hello!! That's some very neat canvas work, and a clean straight vehicle! How are you going with the tyres? :)

[101RRS]

That's some very neat canvas work

Yes I agree - where did you get it from - interested as I need to get a new hood for my 101.

Garry

[Sitec]

Yes I agree - where did you get it from - interested as I need to get a new hood for my 101.

Garry

Guessing it might be these guys....

Contact us for all your soft trim needs - Coventry, UK (http://trimtechnologyservices.co.uk/contact)

Bed Bug might b able to give. Prices/availability etc. :)

[101RRS]

Guessing it might be these guys....

Contact us for all your soft trim needs - Coventry, UK (http://trimtechnologyservices.co.uk/contact)

Bed Bug might b able to give. Prices/availability etc. :)

Sorry - I was agreeing with you but asking Bed Bug the question - sorry for the confusion.

I have never heard of the company you linked but worth a try. All Wheel Trim and Exmore Trim supply them as well.

cheers

Garry

[bed_bug]

It's all Trim Technologies work. They were the original makers of all the fabric items for every 101 when they left the factory. They still make every hood for Land Rover today, as well as the Jaguar stuff, high end designer goods and bespoke aviation trim.
I've bought 3 hoods previously. one was and possibly another, was an Exmoor. The fit and quality of workmanship I had here was what I wanted again. The composition and characteristics of modern canvas have changed and affected the way covers are marked up. So to restart production, any original patterns would have needed reworking. I left my 101 in their bespoke fitting bay and came back to what you see a week later. I haven't settled up yet I'm not sure of the definitive cost but, T-T's initial estimates were surprisingly no higher than anyone else's. Here's the email address for the man who made it happen...

dean.holt@trim-technology.com

The tyres are simply superb and we're placing our 3rd order. I'm looking at the regroovable aspect and how I can help get this in place? Adding another 30-50% to your tyre mileage could be a big saver for people. I don't think we've had that option in a tyre on a 101 here.

Steve

[bed_bug]

I've fitted a Programmable/ Digital MDS 6 AL-2 the other day. had one on my last 101 and I have a couple on my boat. I was going to leave it until,the 4.6 went in but why wait ? The programable aspect is only 2D but there are lots of other facilities. I quite like the idea of overlaying an advance curve on the bob weights to meet the needs Of the steeper advance curve of LPG. It was late when I took the picture but it's not much to look at anyway.

[Sitec]

I've fitted a Programmable/ Digital MDS 6 AL-2 the other day. had one on my last 101 and I have a couple on my boat. I was going to leave it until,the 4.6 went in but why wait ? The programable aspect is only 2D but there are lots of other facilities. I quite like the idea of overlaying an advance curve on the bob weights to meet the needs Of the steeper advance curve of LPG. It was late when I took the picture but it's not much to look at anyway.

I hadn't realised LPG needs a different advance setup. What would make it differ? Learn something every day! :)

[101RRS]

Ideally LPG needs for advance than for petrol so twin maps for ignition is a good idea. For example the standard advance for a a 3.5 on petrol is 3 DBTC where for gas it may exceed 10 degrees.

HOWEVER the 3.5 does respond well to lots of advance on petrol and will run fine certainly with 10 DBTC. So using this setting means a 3.5 runs great on both - 91 RON or LPG. Other vehicles may not though.

Garry

[bed_bug]

Hi, due to Tapatalk not telling me what's going on I've wanders off unawares of your posts. Petrol , LPG and CNG all have different advance curves. LPG is a lot steeper than petrol. CNG even steeper still. The advantage of LPG over petrol is that it homogenises with air and unlike petrol won't drop,out of suspension. So if you turbo or super charge with LPG from an inter cooling routing perspective, it doesn't matter how long the hoses are. The other advantage LPG has is that it seems to resist detonation for longer. Allowing for higher compression ratios or boost in an LPG engine. So if you build an engine to devoted to LPG you can extract the power out of the fuel. It just has to be built to suit it, as the primary fuel. I've fitted an ignition amplifier which will allow me to overlay a steeper curve over the existing mechanical bob weights but will also allow me to remove it completely and go back to points if it all goes wrong in the middle of the woods.

Right now I'm starting to build up a 4.6 with 4.0 pistons in. I'm looking for a water pump, that will fit on the intermediate 3.9 Serpentine cover and rotate in the original V belt direction. I can't see any point in moving to a serp. belt when I only have the water pump and alternator to drive.

[chazza]

Megajolt ignition allows two different advance maps, which are switchable, which would be ideal for dual-fuel. Another advantage of Megajolt is that it can be programmed with a PC, or laptop; including live data, whilst the car is being driven.

For fuel injected engines Megasquirt performs the same functions, with the addition of being able to control the injectors.

Thanks for the info bed_bug! Have you any links to advance curves?

Cheers Charlie

[bed_bug]

With a megajolt can you still use a dizzy and points?

I'll dig out the two curves and post up the picture.

Although shared up on the net this was in an LPG fact book thing I had. What you can see in the background is the other side of the page that was scanned in.

Its not the comparison of the 3 fuels I spoke of, I still cant find that :( .

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/685.jpg

[chazza]

With a megajolt can you still use a dizzy and points?



If you use a thing called an EDIS8 made by Ford, the distributor can be chucked in the bin.

The big advantage of using Megajolt with EDIS8 is that the static advance will be a perfect 10 degrees forever with no change; unlike a distributor, which wears with use, which of course changes the ignition advance.

Some people use Megasuirt with a distributor, but for the love of me, I can't work out why they would! With a trigger-wheel and sensor on the crankshaft, all of the manufacturing and wear tolerances between the crankshaft and the distributor, can be eliminated!

Have a look here Main Page - Autosport Labs (http://www.autosportlabs.net/Main_Page)

Cheers Charlie

[bed_bug]

The ignition I have gives me multiple sparks at low RPM and I'm not seeing that much advantage in moving that far forward in a 101.

I like to keep things so that, stuck up to my diffs in mud miles from anywhere I can still sort an issue by defaulting to basics. Which is what keeps me using carbs too.

Thanks for the info tho.

[chazza]

I like to keep things so that, stuck up to my diffs in mud miles from anywhere I can still sort an issue by defaulting to basics. Which is what keeps me using carbs too.



I felt the same during my research phase :D In fact I didn't think I would ever change to computer ignition; however; the good news is that the EDIS is very reliable and is probably more reliable than a distributor. Even so I keep a spare one in the car. The computer needs to be kept dry and coolish, so it usually lives in the cab with the driver.

Connecting them is just some simple wiring, no more complicated than the low tension wiring in a conventional ignition circuit. The high tension side is much the same as original, except that it is waterproof at the coils :D

The computer and the EDIS are protected with fuses, so as long as it is installed well with soldered joints, the chance of catastrophic failure is very slim. The VR sensor on the crankshaft can fail but they are very cheap, about the size of two matchboxes and can be unbolted and replaced at the side of the road if necessary.

On my Alpine I have kept the original ignition system in the engine bay, so I can reconnect it in about a minute, if the Megajolt fails,

Cheers Charlie

[bed_bug]

I've just finished a little stop gap project and thought i'd update my thread and share some knowledge.

1 it is possible to remove all the pistons and rods with the block still in place. More importantly theres also enough space to get the ring compressor in to get the lot back in there too. So I replaced all the rings.

2 The later head used on the 4.0 and 4.6 will bolt onto the 3.5 if you use the composite 3.5 gasket. The end fixings for alternators etc on each end if the heads have a larger thread so you need to drill out your existing alternator and gear linkage bracket and use bolts to suit. I don't think it's worth running the even larger aftermarket valves as they will be shrouded by the cylinder wall anyway. You may need either adjustable push rods or a pedestal shim kit to get your lifter preloads back into spec. V easy with adjustable push rods and you can set each one individually too.

Next job is building the 9.8:1 4.6L and this minor refresh has bought me some time.

Steve

[bed_bug]

Thought I'd post some pics of the Chris Velardi Style manifolds I had fabricated. The offside one you simply cut off and rotate the vertical down pipe section and this will clear the handbrake rod by 1/4" or so. the Nearside took six attempts to complete. It's not quite the same as Chris's. The front port tubes were cut off and about 9/16 taken out at that point. The flexible joint was taken out also. My truck has the winch, so clearing the chassis mounted pulley makes an extra obstacle. Using a spare 101 bell housing and old V8 engine we bolted up an original 101 Nearside manifold and part if the down pipe. This enabled us to find the angle and centreline of the original pipe. As a result, the Nearside pipe takes the original route through between the Gearbox mount and the Winch drive shaft. These manifolds gave me the opportunity to build a full 57mm system with a 26" cherry bomb in place of the last tail pipe section. My fabricator would make more sets of the manifolds but it is a fiddly job. However it is a one time thing as they're stainless and the sale of my originals pulled in nearly enough cash to cover it. In fact one set I sold raised more cash that a pair of these. 8407484075

[Sitec]

Hi! Do the manifolds make a difference in power? They'd have to make a difference in sound for sure!! :)

[JayBoRover]

Hi! Do the manifolds make a difference in power? They'd have to make a difference in sound for sure!! :)


Did you not get to listen to mine over the diesel racket from yours when I was over your way? Mine has custom made headers in place of the original manifold too.

[Sitec]

Did you not get to listen to mine over the diesel racket from yours when I was over your way? Mine has custom made headers in place of the original manifold too.

Diesel racket!! pftt!! Thats a fast economical purr youre talking about... :wasntme: Yeah, yours sounded good.. I'd be interested in a 'before and after' comparison of power with swept extractors over the originals.. It would have to be better, just interested in how much better.. A lot of the diesel boys are doing it now on tractor pullers etc. I think Id have to rethink my props, LT230 and welded gear before I go too crazy, tempting tho it is!!

[bed_bug]

Well the better the original, the less gain there is to be had right?

For Petrol V8 owners its the most important of all power / economy mods IMO. Anything else will just be hampered by the lack of gas flow. If you run to a full striaght through system at 57mm and do nothing else you will find your power band has moved upwards. Its now like driving a Sprint. it likes it and rewards you for it. However if you just build some down pipes that convert from 57mm to slip over the original system about 18" further back you get the benefits of removing the restriction and keeping the power band where it is. If you decide to build more power simply rip the rest out and build the whole 57mm thing.


The Offside one is easy to do and just requires the downpipe collector to be cut and rotated. If two studs run parallel with the chassis rail. It can be angles so the handbrake rod will then clear the pipe by 1/4" and doesn't foul when on or off. I have pics of 3 different version of the nearside manifold. Crossovers that go under the bell housing and the main box. Pics of MGB headers too. Let me know if you want them too.

OK dont get the dumb picture sizes! here's the link to all the big bore pictures

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5nBv2PUbBfDTTFSWTNEWGFIT1U&usp=sharing

Here's another link to all the other pictures.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5nBv2PUbBfDOXNhNmdKTGEwcVE&usp=sharing

I suggest you take them all now if you think you might need them in the future.

[bed_bug]

Got my new doors back today for their first fit up.... all ally, gone, is the rust bug.

[Homestar]

Very nice. Are those 2 circular cutouts for speakers?

[bed_bug]

Yes they're cut to take a pioneer 6", but shallow fit.

Here's a pic of my knee! Its happier resting on that now than before

[bed_bug]

I've added a 130Amp alternator to run my water heater and compressor. The Alternator doesn't need modifying to fit but you do need a dished pulley for belt alignment.
Some pics of fabricating the bracket etc.86104861058610686107

[bed_bug]

some pics of my water heater for use on the road. It produces. 4L of water at 93C.But needs to be fused at 50Amps. I'm using it and preheater for the cooking mainly. But is should be good for tea and coffee stops too. Just needs. hanging bracket now to go over the side panels or hang on the outside tailgate when we've stopped. 8610886109

[Homestar]

Cool. How long does it take to heat the 4L of water?

[bed_bug]

I do t know yet I need to try it out on the road to see what it's like at 13V + It's effectivley a 600W Immersion heater. Once it's up to temperature is cuts in and out. So it can be powered up as soon as we leave . Then as long as it's hot by the time we pull up for a break, it gets to stay. It should be OK they fit them in site workers vans to make hot drinks with.