Thermostats

[TheTree]

Hi

This has turned into a classic "which part to buy" for me :angry:

A few weeks ago I fitted a new thermostat (allmakes) and I am now very suspicious about it so I did a bit more research

It seems there are the cheap ones, britpart, bearmach, allmakes etc all priced round $25.00 then it leaps to genuine for about $150.00 :eek: Local dealer quoted $180.00 for genuine.

I found a couple of others like Eurospare, MotoRad, WD Express (cheap) and Gates (expensive) but nothing in the middle.

Eventually I found a Beck/Arnley one which says it is OEM and sells for about $70.00.

Beck Arnley Engine Coolant Thermostat 143 0883 | eBay

So I think I may try this unless anyone has any other suggestions?

Steve

[wayneg]

Why are you suspicious and why did you renew?
I had a concern with the new car so took out the Thermostat and put it into a saucepan of water and heated up, it took ages to open and then not fully. Tried the same with another I had and it opened quicker and wider. Guess which one I fitted back in the car?

[daf11e]

Steve, I have had bad issues with thermostats not lasting....recently(May) purchased a waxtat from Roverlord $70 so far so good....I guess time will tell, everything I have bought from Roverlord has been ok.

[TheTree]

Why are you suspicious and why did you renew?
I had a concern with the new car so took out the Thermostat and put it into a saucepan of water and heated up, it took ages to open and then not fully. Tried the same with another I had and it opened quicker and wider. Guess which one I fitted back in the car?

Hi

I replaced because it looked like the original one was still in situ

I am suspicious because we had the radiator hot at the top and cold at the bottom when the thermostat should have been open plus it is running hotter than it should

Steve

[TheTree]

Steve, I have had bad issues with thermostats not lasting....recently(May) purchased a waxtat from Roverlord $70 so far so good....I guess time will tell, everything I have bought from Roverlord has been ok.

Hi

I meant to mention roverlord I am just waiting for them to reply to my email.

I agree about the quality of their bits :D

Steve

[Keithy P38]

I've had a britpart thermostat in mine for it's entire life with me (so nearly 5yrs now) and not had any temp issues.

Cheers
Keithy

[Hoges]

FWIW: The part number is PEM101130. Karcraft have it listed for $48 approx. incl. GST with an <A> designation meaning OEM supplier to LR or genuine. Add $15 or so for overnight Aus post yellow bag...

I've replaced a couple thinking the worst, but when I tested them in a pyrex kitchen jug + thermocouple on my digi DVM (because I could:p) they behaved perfectly... (now sitting in box as emergency spare)

[TheTree]

Hi

I may have just got a flaky one I am going to get one from Roverlord and put it in. I can then test the existing one and see if it has a problem

Steve

[daf11e]

Steve,
The one I took out of mine was a $50 ebay purchase 2months old and was stuck half open.....it was causing temp spikes...it was also. No name ....this one from Roverlord seems ok as stated before.

[benji]

I put in a genuine thermostat when I first got the car. After a few months I had temp issues and in swapping it for a britpart one found it to be okay.

Interestingly, the genuine one keeps it at 93-94, and the britpart at 87-89.

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[p38arover]

I'm using a Davis Performance Landys sputnik in the bottom hose and a standard thermostat in the inlet manifold.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[TheTree]

Ron

Where do they fit the thermostat in the inlet manifold?

Steve

[Hoges]

Ron has a GEMS engine, not the Thor... different inlet manifold.

[TheTree]

Ron has a GEMS engine, not the Thor... different inlet manifold.

Yeah no "bunch of bananas" of course!

[benji]

On gems it sits in behind the inlet manifold to radiator top pipe sputnik.
When I got my P38 it actually had two thermostats in it.

Have you had any temp problems running that, as it wouldn't close of the radiator bypass.

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[Scouse]

I'm using a Davis Performance Landys sputnik in the bottom hose and a standard thermostat in the inlet manifold.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/p38a-range-rover/45813d1334365927-camshafts-p38a-p38a_sputnik-6w.jpgYou can also knock the internals out of the original housing as 'Mechanic2You' has done.

[p38arover]

Cunning!

benji, I've had no overheating problems. Hopefully Davis have had enough experience with the RR to get it right.

[Shirley]

Hi Steve,
I replaced my old one a few years ago just for the fun of it and also fitted an engine cylinder temperature monitor.
As luck would have it, the new one ran at the same temp as the old, about 82 to 85 degrees. The original was a genuine and replacement was a aftermarket from Rimmer Bros UK. The new one for about $70.00 works great after 3 years.
Maybe my block sensor is under calibrated but everything runs well. I do prefer the cooler unit, but hated the skin damage fitting it!

Cheers,
Shirley.

[TheTree]

It seems the QA on thermostats is not the best :eek:

I am going to try one of the waxstat OEM jobs from roverlord, hopefully it will behave a little better than my current one

Steve

[Hoges]

According to the Torque app, the engine in my P38 hovers between 92-94 deg C with ambient between 10 deg C and 46 deg C.(heatwave over Christmas near Gundagai!) My understanding is that the coolant temp. on the Thor engine at least, needs to exceed 90 deg to enable it to go "closed loop"...

[johnyrover]

Mine was stuck open (no good in the cold). I went the Britpart route bout a year ago. So far so good. Also went the cheaper option for the rad. Didn't want to be paying $500 for a radiator. Dont ya love it when they dont leak? :D
Cheers.
John

[TheTree]

I now have in my possession a pretty solid looking waxstat thermostat from roverlord

I may test it before I install it ;)

Steve

[TheTree]

Well I swapped the thermostat over and it has made little difference :(

I also tested the bearmach one and it works fine.

I am currently thinking that perhaps the brass impeller on the water pump I replaced about a year ago has been attacked by the OATS coolant.

There are no bubbles in the cooling system so I think my heads are OK, but a compression test may well be in order.

I should add that it is not overheating but it is running at around 100, which is too high for the work it is doing.

Steve

[TheTree]

Turns out the water pump I fitted 6 months ago had started to fail.

I makes a squealing/grinding sound when turned and some coolant had stared to leak out the bleed hole

Things look a bit more normal now

Steve

[benji]

Wow! That's quick for a water pump.
You said the impeller was brass, so it's a genuine one?
The reason I ask is that from xa426594 the STC4434 pump was specified (STC1693 was the old one). Maybe this was the change over to the oat coolant.


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[TheTree]

Wow! That's quick for a water pump.
You said the impeller was brass, so it's a genuine one?
The reason I ask is that from xa426594 the STC4434 pump was specified (STC1693 was the old one). Maybe this was the change over to the oat coolant.


Mate it was an AirTex pump from roverlord, it is on it's way back to Mario for inspection. I grabbed a replacement from Bursons, a pressed steel impeller the same as the one I took off 6 months ago.

Th brass impeller didn't look like it had been attacked at all but the pump was sick for sure.

Mario told me he had a couple of failures on D2's (one of which was his) due to a misaligned air-con pulley. So I am going to check the pulley alignment as well

Steve

[TheTree]

My cooling system finally seems to have settled down.

No leaks, no running hot and no coolant being used plus I have a spare thermostat now

Huzzah :D

Steve

[davidsonsm]

Steve, that must be a mighty relief. Good on on fella.

[Robsrod 58]

I've had a britpart thermostat in mine for it's entire life with me (so nearly 5yrs now) and not had any temp issues.

Cheers
Keithy

Me too... no probs, maybe ours were made early in the week:p

But I won't make the same mistake with elcheapo coolant hoses again, genuine all the way.

Rob